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Predator Lawn Mowers Blades- Strongest Blade on the Market- NOW 10% Off

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Fundamentals of Home Pest Control and Management

Profits from Plants -- Income Opportunities in Horticulture: Intro and Table of Contents

Pest-Control Technology: Technician's Guide
Use this guide to:

  • manage/control pests at your home or on your property
  • prepare yourself for an inspection from your local Health Department
  • have fore-knowledge of what the pros know: since pest-control costs/fees are high, you can save yourself some money by precisely directing the professional pest-control company when they assess your pest problem
  • prepare for a successful career in pest-control technology or management. This is a sound career choice regardless of the state of the nation's economy (yup --- all those foreclosed homes have pests!)

Landscaping for the Old House

Gardening for Food in a Bad Economy:

Are you looking for LAWN MOWER parts? We have virtually all the lawn-mower parts you need to keep your equipment running smoothly. Our supply partner stocks lawn mower parts for most popular brands including Exmark, Scag, Toro, Craftsman (AYP), Cub Cadet, Husqvarna, MTD, Murray, Snapper, Troy-Bilt and more. Buy lawn mower batteries, bearings, belts, blades,  pulleys, throttle controls and cables and more online. The lawn mower parts line includes spindles, electric PTO clutches and many other repair parts.


Lawns -- Our carefully-researched, year-round lawn-care guide for all climates and conditions, plus a special section on ground covers. Here's a brief overview of the material we will cover:

  • Grasses for home and building lawns
  • Facts on fertilizers
  • Seeding rates and procedures
  • Best ways to water your lawn
  • Effective mowing practices
  • How to control weeds
  • Coping with lawn diseases
  • Insects and their control
  • Maintenance tips
  • Year-round guide to lawn
  • Ground covers: enjoyable natural
  • How to select, plant, care for a lawn using ground covers


1. You and Your Lawn

2. Grasses for Home Lawns

3. Facts on Fertilizers

4. Seeding Rates and Procedures

5. Watering Your Lawn

6. Mowing Practices

7. Weeds and Their Control

8. Lawn Diseases

9. Insects and Their Control

10. Maintenance Tips

11. Your Year-Round Guide for Lawn Care

12. Ground Covers: A Natural Carpet for Your Enjoyment

13. Planting Your Ground Cover

14. How to Take Care of Your Ground Cover

15. Propagating Your Own Ground-Cover Plants

16. Selecting Ground Covers for Your Landscape

17. Frequently Asked Questions/Answers about Ground Covers

Job Site and Landscaping:

Implement Resourceful Landscaping

The Low-Maintenance Landscape:

  1. The Lawn
  2. Trees and Shrubs
  3. Flowers and Vegetables
  4. Landscape Walls and Walks

How to Repair Small Gas Engines:

This guide describes how to repair all small gasoline engines—two- and four-cycle, air- and water-cooled, single and multi-cylinder. These engines are found on lawnmowers, small tractors, pumps, generators, chain saws, snowmobiles, and motorcycles. Outboards are discussed in detail, as are utility engines used aboard ship. One section deals with rotary snowmobile and lawnmower engines. Another goes into detail on transmissions, including belt-driven types. Another section is devoted to troubleshooting — the most critical art for the mechanic. Except for the first section, which is a quick overview of small engine technology, and the last section, which is about business practices, the guide is organized by job. Material is presented in the order that the mechanic needs it. For example, ignition systems are discussed before fuel systems, and fuel systems before engine overhaul. Studies show that nine out of ten small engine failures involve the ignition system. Fuel systems are the next most likely culprit; piston, rod, and bearing failure is the least likely. In other words, you do not have to read all the guide before you understand enough to fix most small engines.

The repair procedures are a combination of factory-approved techniques and the result of experience. Sometimes experience and factory techniques conflict: when this happens I say so in the text and let the reader make his own decision in the matter.

  1. Theory of Operation: Gas Engine Basics—Operating Principles
  2. Troubleshooting: Troubleshooting Specific Symptoms
  3. (coming soon) Ignition Systems: Coils—Spark Plugs—High-Tension Cables—Breaker Points— Condensers—Distributors-- Battery Ignition Systems—Magneto Ignition Systems—Special Ignition Systems

Sheds — Building Tips for the Foundation:


Scenario: You're designing a shed and are wondering if the foundation is over-/under built ?

You're looking at building the shed to these dimensions: 12' wide by 16' deep. You would like to use 2 x 6 treated lumber ( running 12' wide ) spaced at 16' o/c. with 5/8 flooring. The shed is going to be used for storage ( two ATV's, garden tractor, etc, etc )

Should the 12' span be braced in the middle or will it be able to hold the weight ?

Possible Solutions and Advice:

You will need at least 2x8 to span 12 feet for a live load of 40 pounds per square foot and a dead load of 10 psf. A 2x6 is good for 9 feet 9 inches. You will need the larger lumber or bracing.

Your shed is over 120 sq. ft. -- check with your local bldg. dept. about needing a permit for it. If you need the permit, pull it! Don't go shooting yourself in the foot to save $100.

If you're looking to put a 10'x10' Duramax vinyl shed , this may help:

Buy FOUR pieces of 10' x 4" x 4" pressure treated lumber, make a square out of them and nail them together. Sit the wooden square on the flat dirt ground. Next, build the shed on top of this square. Once the shed is all built, then go and dump gravel inside of the wooden square frame 4" high and this will be the floor of the shed. This way you don't have to worry about building a plywood floor and making sure to add enough beams to support the weight of an ATV, etc. All of the stuff inside the shed will just sit directly on top of the gravel which is sitting on top of dirt. Plus the nice thing about gravel is you don't have to worry about a wooden floor ever rotting, you don't have to worry about if you spill something inside the shed or have a gas leak from a atv, tractor, etc, because any liquid will just seep through the gravel and into the ground. Plus doing it this way would be very inexpensive, quick and easy for the most part.

You will approx. need roughly 1.3 cubic yards of gravel for the base.
10'x10'x4" (deep) = 400 / 324 = 1.23 cubic yards of gravel

The cost of 4 pieces of wood, and the gravel, seems to be the cheapest foundation you can get.

Unique products offered on this site include the latest Greenhouses:

Self-Erecting Greenhouses: greenhouse kits are compact and lightweight for easy transport, setup, and take down. These greenhouse kits require no tools for assembly and can easily be set up in minutes. They can also be taken down just as easily and stored in a garage, basement, or even a closet.

Rion Easy To Build Greenhouse:

Great For the Beginner or Serious Grower

This Easy-to-Build do-it-yourself Greenhouse offers aluminum frame components insuring long life and ease of maintenance. Simplified "push and click" connectors, make the Easy-to-Build the ultimate do-it-yourself greenhouse. A Phillips screwdriver and pliers is all you need to assemble. Easily moved from one location to another in the same yard or to another home when moving.

Kit Includes:

* Aluminum extrusions
* Patented "push & click" connectors
* Three year rated 6 mil clear polyethylene film
* Patented lock clip to fasten poly film to greenhouse
* (1) framed hinged door (no Velcro or zippers!)
* (2) 8" diameter SmartVents for air circulation
* Ground stakes for easy anchoring
* Easy to read pictured assembly instructions

Greenhouses Patented SnapGlas Technology:

The popular Enthusiast 6' x 8' hobby greenhouse and new MiniPro hobby greenhouse are just the beginning in this exciting line of top quality greenhouses. The maintenance-free aluminum frame, SnapGlas clear polycarbonate panels and ease of assembly make this a great value for the home gardener who's serious about horticulture. These units ship fast so you don't have to wait long to start enjoying your very own greenhouse.

Gazebos & Garden Sheds: crafted from Western Red Cedar, known for its warm wood characteristics, beauty, durability and outstanding weather resistance. Panelized for quick assembly, including floor, pre-shingled roof panels, pre-hung door and windows. Ready to use in just one afternoon.

Lawn Fertilizers: carefully-selected products to build healthy, vigorous, disease resistant roots and produce a greener lawn in a matter of days.

Gardening and Lawn-care How-To

Building A Composter

Composting is a great way to turn waste into nutrients. You don't have to spend lots of money on a rotary composter. Here is a quick and inexpensive way to start composting.

This compost bin was constructed using medium gauge galvanized wire fencing. It holds roughly 1 cubic yard of material, which is about the minimum volume needed for efficient composting

What you need:

* Medium gauge galvanized wire fencing
* Wire cutters
* 20-gauge utility wire

Unroll the fencing on the ground, and measure an 11 length. It may be necessary to weight down the fencing to keep it from rolling up again. Use heavy-duty wire cutters to cut the fencing to the proper size.
Stand the fencing up on end, and overlap 3"-4" of the material. Tie the ends of the fencing together with 20-gauge utility wire to finish the bin. The total job takes about 15-20 minutes.

Establishing the Ideal Vegetable Garden

Step 1 Choose an area in which will receive 5-7 hours of sunlight per day

Step 2 Remove grass, weeds debris from the proposed site. This should be done by good old fashion blood, sweat and tears (digging, raking and hoeing). It is a good idea to uses a systemic grass and weed killer such as Round-Up before cultivating. This will take a few weeks to kill all the vegetation but it does do a good job without contaminating the soil.

Step 3 Work the soil to a depth of 10-12" using a shovel or roto-tiller

Step 4 Now its time to improve the soil condition. We recommend using a 2 part mix of of which 1 part consisting of an equal combination of Peat Moss, Perlite, Vermiculite and the other part being the existing soil.

Step 5 Wet the soil for 3 days prior to planting to allow the conditioning to take affect. Do not skip this step

Step 6: Now its time to plant. We recommend staggering planting times. This will allow you to harvest crops over a longer period of time.

Step 7 Fertilize every two weeks with a good water-soluble fertilizer

Step 8 It is a good idea to add lime in the fall at the rate of 6- 8 lbs. per 100 sq. ft. To rejuvenate the soil.

Lawn Aeration

Fall is the most beneficial time to aerate your lawn.

Aeration benefits your lawn in several ways. First, it allows oxygen, water, and nutrients to penetrate further into the soil, encouraging deeper root growth. Second, it reduces soil compaction. Both of these effects will contribute to a healthier and more vigorous lawn. A power aerator is the fastest and most efficient way to aerate your lawn. Slightly overlap each pass until the entire lawn has been aerated.

After you finish aerating your lawn, any cores left lying on the grass should be removed. The most effective way to do this is with old fashioned hard work and a rake. Another idea is to drag a piece of chain-link fencing around your lawn behind a mower or by hand. The fencing will break up the cores into very small pieces. Another approach is to simply set the blade on your mower a little lower than normal, then mow over the cores.

Immediately seed and fertilize your lawn. Cover any bare spots with your favorite "compost" and re-seed. Thoroughly water your lawn for seven days. Continue to water your lawn until temperature are consistently below 40 degrees

Best Time To Plant Vegetables

Most gardeners cant't wait to start planting so they can enjoy the taste of fresh vegetables. However, these plants actually have specific planting times that should be followed. Last spring frost dates are important to home gardeners in order to plan when to set out frost-sensitive annuals, vegetables and even tropical container plants.

Some vegetables are frost tolerant and can be planted as soon as the ground can be worked. Others are slightly less cold hardy and should be placed in the ground 2-4 weeks before the average last frost date which is a specified date calculated for an area after which frost is unlikely to occur. Frost sensitive plants such as melons, peppers, and tomatoes should be planted after the last frost date. Check with the extension service in your area for this information.

Unfortunately, cold weather may still occur after the crop has been planted, and some type of protection will be needed to shelter sensitive plants. To retain heat cover frost sensitive plants just before sundown using nonmetallic containers or old lightweight blankets or row covers. Container plants are easy to deal with, just move them to a garage or other protected areas.

* Very Cold Tolerant Plants -- Plant as soon as ground can be worked somewhat.
* Cold Tolerant Plants -- Plant 2-4 weeks before the first average frost free date
* Frost sensitive Plants -- should be planted after the last frost date

Very Cold Tolerant Mild Cold Tolerant Frost Sensitive
Asparagus Beets Melons
Horseradish Broccoli Peppers
Leeks Cabbage & Kohlrabi Tomatoes
Onions Carrots Sweet Corn
Parsnips Cauliflower Eggplant
Peas Celery Cucumbers
Spinach Collards Artichoke
Turnips Lettuce, Kale, Endive Squash
Shallots Onion Sets  

Annuals Add Rich Color To Your Landscape

Have you ever looked at a neighbor's yard in total envy, because their garden beds exploded into a rainbow of red, orange, blue, yellow and purple, while yours had all the color of a black and white photo? If that's the case, then the real question is, Why?

Creating that palette of color is easy, easier than one might imagine. All it takes is some time, know-how and a few well-placed annual plants. Here are some suggestions for adding instant color to the yard.
Selecting Annuals

Annuals are flowers that experience their entire life cycle in one growing season. Essentially, they grow, blossom and die, allowing the homeowner to create a new and varied garden every year. Some of the most popular annuals include zinnias, marigolds, inpatients and rose periwinkles. Zinnias come in a wide variety of colors. Marigolds are known for their bright, gold appearance. Rose periwinkles bloom in a white hue with a flush of pink. Make sure you select the plants that will work with your local weather conditions -- heat, drought, frost, etc.

Preparing the Planting Site

The next step is to select a planting site. Bear in mind that most annuals thrive best with full exposure to the sun's rays. Now it's time to prepare the soil. The goal is to have soil that is well-drained, full of nutrients and free of weeds. Compacted soil makes it hard for plant roots to spread out, while sandy soil doesn't allow enough water to be absorbed. Using a rake, hoe or tiller, turn the soil over several times. Mixing in organic nutrients will prepare and loosen compacted soil while binding sandy soil. Make sure that all weeds are removed from the bed. This can be accomplished by hand or with an herbicide. Once that's done, apply fertilizer according to the directions on the package.

Planting Annuals

Some gardeners appreciate the challenge of growing annuals from seed, but the most ideal approach is to utilize transplants. Why? For one reason, it's easier to envision how the bed will ultimately look when using transplants. Secondly, seeds take time to grow, but transplants appeal to the instant gratification lover in all of us. In advance of actually putting plants into the ground, draw a picture of the bed as you intend it to look. Use the drawing as a planting guide, almost as a map. "Zinnias go here. Some marigolds go here and there, and way over there..."

When shopping for transplants, seek those with rich green leaves and tight, compact growth. Don't worry about a transplant's height. It will grow as tall as it's supposed to. Also, don't give in to the temptation to buy annuals that are already flowering. They're the quickest to suffer transplant shock, and because they're already blooming, may not last as long. Plants without buds are the way to go, as they'll be less vulnerable to transplant shock and will grow quickly once in the soil.

Keeping Weeds at Bay

Once annuals are in the ground, one of the greatest threats they can face is an onslaught of weeds. A homeowner who hasn't dealt with this problem before it starts could find himself with ravaged plants and hours spent unnecessarily trying to rectify the situation. All it takes to enjoy a summer of weed-free gardening is a good weed preventer and few extra minutes spent right after the annuals have been planted. A product such as Preen will effectively deter weed growth. Preen comes in an easy-to-use, refillable canister that allows granules to be poured -- much like salt from a shaker.

Simply sprinkle Preen evenly around the bed, then gently water the area. Follow the package instructions for maximum effectiveness. A single application will last for three months, at which time Preen can be applied again. Those homeowners who want to make the task of caring for annuals even easier may want to use Preen 'n Green. Preen 'n Green prevents weed growth while providing vital nutrients

It's easy to turn your yard into a work of art. Just think of the garden bed as a canvas and annuals as a selection of colorful paints, and go to it.

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Gardening Tips

Question about Long-Lasting Outdoor Insecticide:

Is there a long-lasting insecticide (repels and kills) that can be used against a broad range of pests (ants primarily)? That is, one which will make it through rain and sun for some weeks. Most seem only to last a week of so. Are the chemicals that Orkin and other firms use long-lasting? If yes, what they are using?


Residual insecticides typically have to be reapplied after rain because rain washes them off surfaces. They are usually effective for several days. Sunlight, heat, and rain tend to render them ineffective. The insecticide used by the pros have longer residual effectiveness. They spray once a month.

Question about Mulch:

The local nursery has oak mulch cheaper than any other type, but they recommend cedar for insect control. They also said it does not matter much, since they recommend changing out mulch every year. Not practical nor affordable!
What is generally recommend for mulch type? Also, is mulch recommended in a flower bed that sits directly against the basement wall?
Can someone refresh memory? A cubic yard does contain 27 cubic feet, doesn't it?


It's not a good idea to use any sort of wood mulch in contact with the soil and the house at the same time. It's like an engraved invitation to termites. Even the cypress & cedar mulches can be susceptible to termite infestation. You'd be better off using one of the shredded rubber mulches or some sort of stone over a weed barrier. Out in the rest of the yard, it shouldn't matter much, although some find that cypress mulch lasts a lot longer. Pine straw might be a good choice for out in the yard. Also try using cotton seed hull mulch, which works great for some folks.

About us:

Are you looking for outdoor garden faucets, felcomatic pneumatic pruning, sphere planter, shears, pestacator plus ultrasonic, permatill, flea b gone, perk up lawn revitalizer, ciotola giulia bowl, essex trough planter, and more?

The products on this web site are from our favorite vendors for high-quality online garden supplies. This vendor consistently scores high marks on hundreds of criteria including ease of use, delivery, customer service, and returns. They combine the peaceful and informative experience of a traditional garden center with the savings and selection found in the large discount chains.

Updated: Friday, 2023-06-09 12:10 PST

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