Installation
Some stove stores will install the unit for you; others won’t. If not, the salesperson can usually refer you to a local in dependent contractor. The cost of such an installation, whether done through the store or not, will range between about $250 and $450 (depending on the difficulty of the installation), and will take anywhere from a few hours to a couple of days to complete. However, if you are reasonably handy and very careful— most stove-related hazards come from faulty installation, not the stoves themselves—you can install the stove your self, venting it either through an existing fireplace or through the roof or ceiling. To some degree, installation procedures vary according to what type and brand of stove you buy, and what kind of ceiling and roof you have. You should discuss all such details with the sales person.
In installing your unit, make sure to follow both the manufacturer’s instructions and the building codes and ordinances that apply in your area. In general, if you keep the stove 36 inches or more away from any combustible wall, you shouldn’t need additional fire protection on the stove’s sides. Underneath the unit you should have at least 3/8-inch of noncombustible material, extending a foot or more on both sides and in back of the stove, and 1 1/2 feet in front. These figures are minimal guidelines only. If the manufacturer of your stove, or your local laws, require a greater lee way, follow those instructions. If you are in doubt about necessary space allowances, call your local city or county building inspector.
Creosote Buildup Can Cause a Fire in Your Stack:
• The importance of cleaning chimneys: With either a fireplace or wood- stove, keeping your chimney clean is an important task when you burn wood, because creosote can build up in your stack and cause a fire in the chimney. This creosote is actually misnamed: it isn’t the stuff used to preserve railroad ties, fence posts, and other outdoor woods—that’s a coal derivative. The creosote we’re concerned with here results from the process of burning wood.
Even the driest wood contains some moisture, and some woods contain a great deal. When wood is burned, and especially when it is burned with a low draft (as in an airtight stove left to smolder overnight), that moisture condenses against the insides of the relatively cool chimney. The steam that condenses there is not pure water vapor. It is pyroligneous acid, which contains small quantities of the volatile gases and particles of wood that have not burned completely. The lower the draft, the lower the temperature of the fire; therefore, the higher the proportion of such volatile matter in the steamy smoke rising in the flue.
As the acid condenses inside the chimney, it dribbles back toward the fire box. As it dribbles back, the remaining water is driven off by the heat, leaving a thick, brownish paste inside the stack. This paste is the creosote we’re concerned with. This concern stems from the fact that not only will creosote build up restrict the available draft, but—far worse—it is very flammable. When it builds up in large enough quantities it can cause a dangerous chimney fire.
Burning dry wood or keeping your draft high will minimize creosote build up, but it won’t eliminate the problem. The only thing to do is to clean out your chimney periodically. and whenever you clean your chimney, you might as well clean your stove as well. How often you’ll need to clean will depend on the quality of the wood you burn and how often you burn it. Climate also is a factor—in San Francisco, you’d probably clean your chimney once a year, but in New England you’d most likely do it as often as three times a year. But these figures are merely guidelines—always follow your manufacturer’s recommendations and your local codes; and in the absence of either of those, ask advice from your dealer about the particular stove you own.
One way to clean your chimney is so easy that you don’t even have to get your fingers dirty (most of the time). All you do is toss chemical salts onto your hot fire—salts such as sodium chloride, calcium chloride, or sodium chloride mixed with copper sulfate. The resulting smoke flakes the creosote from the in side walls of the chimney; then the creosote falls into the fire and burns. You don’t have to apply a chimney brush more than once every half-dozen cleanings or so. These chemicals are available under various brand names in hardware stores, fireplace supply out lets, and wood-stove stores. However, because these salts can produce some chlorine compounds, some air pollution agencies may prohibit their use.
Of course, if you want to harken back to Dickensian days, you can be your own chimney sweep. It’s a messy job, to be sure, but fairly straightforward.
First, close off the mouth of your fire place with thick plastic. Tape the plastic around the opening securely. Cover your rugs, furniture, the cat, and anyone else who hangs out near the fireplace. Some soot and dust are going to filter in under almost any circuit no matter what you do.
Now cover yourself as well as possible with clothes you don’t mind getting grimy. Wear a dust mask over your mouth and nose, and goggles over your eyes.
Tie a stiff steel brush—one that’s either finned or made up of several wheels—to the end of a rope that’s as long as your chimney is high, and weight down the end of the brush. Chimney brushes are generally available at wood-stove outlets, where you will also be able to get advice about this task from service-oriented professionals.
Climb onto your roof carefully, carrying the tool with you. Drop the weighted brush down the chimney all the way to the smoke shelf, and pull it back up, scraping the steel brush against the insides of the flue. Repeat this operation until there is very little new creosote coming up on the tines of your brush. If your chimney is already reasonably clean, you may have to dip the brush as few as five or six times; if the flue is really dirty, you’ll be at the job consider ably longer. Bring a large can or other container along with you to put the creosote in. You can use the same brush to clean the stovepipe sections; just take the sections down and take them outside first.
Of course, you don’t have to sweep out your chimney yourself. As wood heating has regained some of its former popularity, the profession of chimney sweep has come back into its own. There are chimney sweeps in most urban areas of the United States. Ask your stove dealer for recommendations.
You Can Remove Creosote from your Own Chimney: Wear
goggles and dust mask; Wear clothes that you don’t mind getting dirty; Have
plenty of rope to reach the bottom; Steel chimney brush; Weight brush with
5-pound fishing sinker or sash weight; Seal fireplace opening with cardboard,
rags and masking or duct tape.
Next: Water and Wind