Beyond Patterns: Optimal Sewing Techniques for Clothing

• Introduction
• Mechanical, Electronic, or Computerized: Which modern sewing machine type is best for you?
• Optimizing the Common Straight Stitch
• Why Stitches Skip and Fabric Puckers: How to improve stitch quality of your sewing machine
• The Point of an Awl: This simple tool can improve your grip on all your machine sewing
• On Serging Knits: How to set your thread tensions and match the stitch to your fabric
• Introducing the Rotary Cutter: How sewers can use the best tool for cutting out garments
• Matching Thread to Sewing Projects
• Meet the Newest Interfacings: Low-temperature fusibles are the solution for heat-sensitive synthetics
• Preparing Fabric for Sewing: How to find and straighten the grain of woven and knit yardage
• Sewing Without Pins: You really can do without them; it just takes practice
• Changing Seam Allowances: The ideal width depends on the shape and the location
• All About Ease: The amount of extra fullness you need in a garment depends on the drape of the fabric
• Folds in Fabric: A turn of the cloth can take more yardage than you think
• Taming Bias: Tips and strategies for handling the unruly off-grain
• Sewing a Perfect Point: A stitching guide, some turning tools, and a few helpful hints yield accurate corners
• Binding with Bias: Here’s a foolproof way to apply this elegant trim to necklines and edges
• Shaping a Perfect Steeve Cap: Bias strips, machine stitching, and steam shrinking cup fabric for a smooth set
• Buttonholes for Silk: Fine thread and soft interfacing complement a fluid fabric
• Fine Points for Perfect Pockets: Careful marking and the right interfacing make problem welts foolproof
• Foolproof Zipper Insertion: Three steps and a stitching guide guarantee a professional look
• Replacing a Zipper: An easy alteration can save your pants or skirt
• The Invisible Zipper: It’s easy to sew and hard to see. Is this the perfect zipper?
• Flat Lining: One layer of fabric lines, underlines, and seam finishes skirts and pants
• Getting to the Bottom of Things: Hemming pants isn't only a matter of how, but how much
• How to Design a Sewing Room: Ideas on cutting tables and storage

Introduction

The hallmark of a well-made garment is construction that's inconspicuous: seams don’t ripple, hems that are invisible, zippers that don’t gap, and facings that don’t show. The fabric, interfacing, and thread all work together to create a satisfying garment — one you can be proud of.

And, yes, you can pull all this together. This guide offers solid advice from our staff experts -- complete with step-by-step instructions. You’ll find the fundamental information you need on ease, bias, turn-of-the-cloth, seam allowances, fabric preparation, and thread and interfacing selection. And you’ll discover detailed instructions for all the essential applications such as zippers, buttonholes, linings, pockets, collars, sleeves, and hems.

Whether you’re a novice or have sewn for decades, you’ll find techniques you can use again and again. Furthermore, you’ll be building a foundation that will benefit every future sewing project.

Good Luck!

- Staff of crhowto.org