SUBMERSIBLE PUMP INSTALLATION

Submersible pump installation is taunting to some people. fit shouldn't be.

Installing a submersible pump requires many and various parts, but the process is straightforward. Many plumbers and installers prefer installing submersible pumps to installing jet pumps.

We talked about well pressure tanks in Section 4, which specified adequate installation in terms of sizing, selection, and installation requirements for pressure tanks. We talked about choosing submersible pumps in Section 3 and about electrical considerations in Section 7. Thus, there is no need to rehash that material here. The purpose of this section is to detail a normal installation for a submersible pump in a residential setting.

For our example, assume that the pressure tank is a stand model that will be installed in a residential home basement with a concrete floor. A licensed electrician has installed the pump's control box and run wires for the pressure switch and out of the house, down the pipe trench, to a point where the wires turn up at the well casing. An appropriate trench has been provided for you between the foundation of the home and the well casing.

The concrete workers installed a sleeve in the concrete that will allow the piping and wires to leave the basement. You will take over the installation from this point and complete fit.

Where to begin is often the first question that a rookie installer has about installing a submersible pump. If you were to lay out all the components used in such an installation, they would intimidate most people who were not experienced in pump installations. There are a lot of components used in a typical installation. I prefer to start at the wellhead, with the installation of a pitless adapter.

PITLESS ADAPTER

A pitless adapter is used in nearly all submersible pump installations. The adapter allows a horizontal water service pipe in a trench to be connected to fit and converted to the vertical drop pipe that enters the well water. A watertight seal is created when a pitless adapter is installed properly. This is essential to maintain water quality in the well.

Before a pitless adapter can be installed, a hole must be made in the steel well casing. I use a hole saw on a drill to make the holes. A quality hole saw is required to get through the casing. The pilot bit that is part of the hole saw assembly also must be of good quality. The casing material is hard, and cheap equipment will burn out and be rendered toothless before fit cuts a hole.

Once the hole is open, the adapter can be installed. This is done by pushing the adapter through the hole from inside the well casing. The connection fittings are installed on the trench side of the fitting. Once the pitless adapter is in place, the rest of the work can continue.

There is no specific rule that says what should be done next. Most installers, myself included, will start by building the drop-pipe assembly and connecting fit to the pump. Personally, I prefer to complete the out door work first. That way, if weather conditions become undesirable, the rest of the work is inside the basement of the home.

CONNECTING A DROP PIPE TO A SUBMERSIBLE PUMP

The task of connecting a drop pipe to a submersible pump is simple. All this work is done above ground. The first step is screwing a brass male adapter that has a barb insert connection on the back of fit into the pump.

Threads on the male adapter have to be sealed with pipe thread sealant, and the fitting must be installed tightly. fit is just a matter of turning the threaded fitting into the opening on the pump and then turning fit clock wise until fit is tight.

After the male adapter is installed, the next step is connecting the drop pipe. In this case we are using PE pipe. As a matter of principle, I always make these connections by using two stainless steel clamps.

A torque arrestor needs to be installed, and this is the time to do fit. Slide fit up the drop pipe before the pipe is attached to the male adapter. Loosen the clamps that are on each end of the torque arrestor. Slide the rubber device up on the drop pipe. Don’t expand or secure fit at this time. Electrical wiring will be installed through fit before the torque arrestor is secured in place.

Now you can connect the piping to the pump. To do this, slide two stainless steel clamps over the end of the pipe. Push them along the pipe several inches to keep them out of the way. The next step is to insert the barb fitting on the male adapter into the end of the pipe. If the temperature is cold, fit may be difficult to get the fitting into the pipe. Use a heat gun to warm the last few inches of the pipe. Don't get fit too hot. PE pipe will melt, and you don't want that.

Once the barb is fully inserted into the pipe, you can slide the clamps down into place and tighten them. Make sure that the clamps compress the pipe against the barbed fitting. If you overtighten the clamps they will strip and have to be replaced. I use a torque wrench to prevent this. The clamps do need to be tight, but you don't want the worm drive in the clamp to give out.

Now that you have the pipe connected to the pump you should tie the end of a nylon safety rope to the pump. This rope will save the day later if you drop the pump and piping in the well when installing fit or if the connection between the pipe and the pump fails. Not everyone installs a safety rope, but they should.

WIRING THE PUMP

When you are connecting wiring to the pump, be sure to follow the manufacturer's recommendations. Some pumps require two wires. Most of them require three wires. Since I am not a licensed electrician and I believe strongly in following the manufacturer's instructions for wiring installations, fit is not my goal to tell you how to connect the wiring you are installing to the leads coming from the pump. However, I will discuss the rest of the process.

You should run appropriate wiring along the drop pipe. fit will pass under the torque arrestor as fit heads to the pump connection. Once the connection to the pump is made, you are ready to size and secure the torque arrestor. To do this, tighten the clamp on the torque arrestor that is closest to the pump. When this is done you can push down on the top of the rubber torque arrestor. Doing this will expand the device. fit should be expanded to a point that allows fit to fit freely down the well casing with minimal clearance on both sides.

A torque arrestor is installed to absorb jerks and vibrations created by the pump when fit is cycling. This keeps the pump, wiring, and piping from bouncing into the well casing, which could damage the materials.

The next step is extending the wiring up the length of the pipe. You will need electrical tape and torque stops to do this.

Slide some torque stops down the drop pipe. These devices are designed to allow wiring to pass through them. Torque stops are installed at regular intervals-spacing them about 10 feet apart is normally adequate. When you install torque stops you are adding another element of protection to keep the electrical wiring from rubbing against the well casing and chafing the electrical insulation.

Go ahead and run your wiring up the drop pipe. Leave a good amount running past the end of the pipe. When installed, the pipe will terminate at the pitless adapter, but the wiring must go to the top of the wellhead with sufficient length that fit can be connected to wiring coming in from the trench. Use electrical tape to secure the wiring to the drop pipe between torque stops. This creates a professional installation. You are almost ready to connect the drop pipe to the pitless adapter.

CONNECTING THE DROP PIPE TO THE PITLESS ADAPTER

Before connecting the drop pipe to the pitless adapter you must cut the drop pipe to an appropriate length. Normally the pipe is long enough to submerge the pump deep into the well water without getting too close to the bottom of the well. The pump should be kept at least 20 feet off the bottom of the well. Because of the extreme depth of some wells, fit is common for pumps to be hung so that there is much more distance between them and the bottom of the well.

Make sure that you have plenty of water covering the pump to allow for changes in water content. fit makes little sense to hang a pump 100 feet deep when you can hang fit 200 feet deep.

When you review the well specifications, you will find the depth of the well, the static water level, and the recovery rate of the well. This information prepares you for the minimum depth at which to install the pump. Consider the lift rating of the pump and make sure fit is rated to pump the required distance.

When you have determined a proper length for the drop pipe, cut the assembled section from the remaining roll of piping. Cut the safety rope so that you will have at least 10 feet of rope extending on the top of the well casing.

Wrap the safety rope around the well casing several times and tie fit securely. Remember, this rope could be all that stands between you and a lost pump if something goes wrong during the installation. The next step is connecting the drop pipe to the piece that slides into the pitless adapter.

This is done with a brass fitting and stainless steel clamps.

Now you are ready to lower the pump into the well. The pitless adapter slide will accept the threads of a steel pipe. Most plumbers use a well tee for this installation. A well tee is a section of pipe that is 8 or 10 feet long. fit has male threads on each end. One end is attached to a tee fitting, with the tee installed in a bullhead position. In other words, the center outlet attaches to the long pipe. A section of steel piping extends out of each of the other ends of the tee. These sections are usually about a foot long. They form a handle, which prevents the tool from falling down the well casing.

Thread the open end of the long tee shaft into the pitless fitting that is on the pipe. You don't need pipe thread sealant, and the connection does not have to be completely tight. The pipe section will be removed when the pump is installed.

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ABOVE GROUND INSTALLATION

4" Submersibles

Typical Installations

1. PUMP Two or three wire models available.

5-year Warranty covers pump with CentriPro motor against failure due to wear, abrasion, corrosion or even lightning.

2. WARRANTY CERTIFICATE

Either three-wire or two wire. Selection of proper size wire assures required voltage to motor.

6. ELECTRIC CABLE Keeps debris out of well.

Allows entry into the well.

9. WELL CAP OR WELL SEAL

Connector crimps and heat-shrink tubing seals wire lead connections to electric.

3. SPLICE KIT--Absorbs thrust of motor start-ups; keeps pump centered in well.

Various types are available.

4. TORQUE ARRESTOR -- Sometimes used to support the weight of the pump and prevents pump from falling to the bottom of the well.

7. SAFETY ROPE -- Contains components of the motor required with all three-wire models.

10. CONTROL BOX Senses system pressure and automatically turns pump on and off.

16. PRESSURE RELIEF VALVE --Spaced at regular distances apart in the well, to keep wire from rubbing against the side of the wall.

5. TORQUE STOPS--For underground connection of well pipe to horizontal pipe providing a sanitary seal.

8. PITLESS ADAPTER -- Recommended for units over 1 1/2 h.p. Models up to 1 1/2 h.p. have lightning protection built right into the motor.

11. LIGHTNING ARRESTOR (include stop and waste valve in illustration)

Plumbing fittings usually included in typical water system hook-ups include tank cross-tee, boiler drain fittings, unions and other necessary items.

12. FITTINGS-- Indicates system pressure at all times.

13. PRESSURE SWITCH --Protection against pressure build-up. Particularly vital where the pump is capable of producing more pressure than the working limits of the tank.

14. PRESSURE GAUGE --Offers water storage for fewer lump cycles. Provides air cushion to operate against. Tank should be sized so that draw down is equal to capacity of pump.

15. STORAGE TANK Fgr. 1 Typical Submersible Pump Installation

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LOWERING THE PUMP

Double-check all your work to this point. Refer to Fgr. 1 if you have any questions. If the work meets your satisfaction, you can lower the pump into the well. When you begin to lower the pump, fit is important to make sure that the pipe is being lowered straight into the well. Don’t let fit slide over the edge of the well casing. This can damage the wiring and possibly the pipe. When the pump is completely lowered, slide the pitless fitting into place. This creates a positive seal and provides the sup port needed for the well pipe and pump. Once the slide adapter is seated completely, unscrew the well tee and remove fit. Now you are ready to make the electrical connection at the wellhead.

CONNECTING WIRES AT THE WELLHEAD

Connecting wires at the wellhead requires the use of a splice kit. These are connectors that use a heat-shrinking means of making the wiring connections waterproof. The same connectors are used for any connections made along the drop pipe.

The ends of each wire to be connected are stripped of insulation. Once you have bare wires, slide them through the heat-shrinking sections and place them under the metallic connection points. When the copper wire is in the proper position, the connection points are squeezed hard with pliers to join the ends of two wires under each connection point.

Now you need a heat gun or a torch to shrink the collars on the splice kit. If you use a torch, be careful. Too much heat too close to the material will burn fit and ruin the splice kit. A heat gun works great.

Move whatever heat source you are using around so that fit is not concentrated on a particular portion of the material. As fit is heated, the plastic will shrink and melt into place around the insulated wires to seal them from water infiltration. Now you can install the well cap and secure fit.

There will be a molded channel in the top that allows the wiring to be turned downward, toward the trench. This completes the outside work.

INSIDE THE FOUNDATION

You have some work to do inside the foundation. The first step is installing the pressure tank. After the tank is set in place and the air charge is tested, install the tank tee and associated devices. Make the connection between the water service and the tank. You can use the same instructions given for this under the information for jet pumps earlier in this section. When everything has been tested, seal the pipe sleeve and you are done.