To maintain the seemingly effortless motion made by windows that swing and windows and doors that slide, a homeowner must regularly clean and lubricate a variety of mechanical parts. Swingers (casement, awning, jalousie and hopper windows) swing open on hinges, sometimes guided by a metal rod and propelled by a crank operator or, less commonly, controlled by a lever mechanism. Sliders (sliding windows and patio doors) run on glides or rollers.
Dust and grease accumulate in operators and clog the splines of the gears. Periodically lubricating the operator in place with silicone spray is a good practice. A thorough cleaning once a year, as described in this chapter, requires a careful disassembly of the operator from the window. Dirt also builds up in tracks and around the window. Vacuum tracks and scrub sashes and frames with mild detergent. Steel surfaces, particularly common on basement hoppers, frequently rust, and should be scraped and repainted with rustproof exterior paint.
In many ways you can treat a swinging wood window as you would a double-hung window or even a conventional interior door. Inspect hinges for sagging, and re-plug worn hinge-screw holes if necessary (Tools and Techniques). If the sash binds against the jamb or sill, perhaps because it is swollen with moisture, sand the edge of the sash where it rubs. Repositioning a casement window stop as you would a door stop may help to quiet a rattling window. If a problem arises that is not listed in the Troubleshooting Guide below, consult the chapters on Double-hung Windows and Interior Doors.
Even the best maintenance practices can't prevent parts from breaking down, but they can usually be repaired. For each type of window and door shown on the opposite page there are numerous other models, with their own distinctive parts. Save broken parts to help you find matching replacements; if your local hardware store doesn't stock the same model, take the part to a window repair specialist. As a final resort, consult the manufacturer.
TROUBLESHOOTING GUIDE
[[[DEGREE OF DIFFICULTY:
ESTIMATED TIME:
Easy H Moderate Complex O Less than 1 hour © 1 to 3 hours Over 3 hours]]]
SYMPTOM
CASEMENT, AWNING AND JALOUSIE WINDOWS
Window doesn't open or close smoothly
Operator handle slips
Multi-vent awning window grinds when opened or closed; one or more vents are crooked; window rattles
Glass slat of jalousie window loose or falls out
Hopper window doesn’t open or close smoothly
SLIDING WINDOWS AND DOORS
Slider doesn't open or close smoothly Slider rattles
POSSIBLE CAUSE
Operator loose
Operator dirty
Operator worn
Extension-arm shoe jammed
Handle setscrew loose
Gear stem dirty
Gear stem worn
Linkage system faulty
Jalousie clip or rivet broken
Accumulation of rust or paint on sash or sill
Glides worn
Roller assembly faulty
Roller assembly broken
Track damaged
Weather stripping worn
Insulation foam worn
Track damaged
Roller assembly faulty
Track bowed
PROCEDURE
Tighten operator mounting screws
Clean and lubricate operator (casement, ; awning, : jalousie, ) BO
Replace gear or operator (casement, : awning, : jalousie, ) HO
Release shoe DO: clean and lubricate track with silicone spray
Tighten setscrew
Remove handle, clean and lubricate stem DO
Replace gear or operator (casement, awning, jalousie, p. 30) HO
Lubricate linkage: adjust if necessary HO
Replace broken part () HO
Use coarse steel wool to remove rust deposits; scrape off paint and repaint with rustproof exterior paint
Replace glides () HO
Adjust roller assembly () DO
Replace roller assembly () HO
Install steel cap () HO; repair track ()
Replace weather stripping () DO
Replace foam () HO
Install steel cap () HO; repair track (p. 32)
Adjust roller assembly () DO
Hammer down if minor; call for service
Casement windows--Swing open on side hinges; usually use a crank operator which consists of gears and an extension arm that slides through a track fastened to the lower part of the sash. Older casements may operate with a lever that controls the motion of the sash.
Awning windows (multi-vent)--Open and close by a complicated series of linkages that run vertically along both sides of the window unit; the torque bar lining the bottom of the frame connects them and transfers the crank operator movement evenly to the sashes
Awning windows (single-vent)--Pivot at the top and swing upward and out, shielding the inside from ram even when open; their crank operator commonly uses scissor arms dipped or screwed to the sash, or a sliding arm that runs along a track on the sash.
Sliding windows and patio doors--Ventilate through 50 percent of the window opening; the window or door moves along a track, usually on rollers or plastic glides, some come with one fixed and one sliding sash or door, others have two moving sections.
Hopper windows--Are used in basements or in combination with non-moving windows; they pivot at the bottom and swing inward, and rarely use an operator; often made of steel, they require regular maintenance to prevent damage by rust.
Jalousie windows--Resemble a multi-vent awning; the narrow panes are held in place by clips or metal channels, a linkage system runs up only one side of the frame; the glass-to-glass joints tend to leak air and so are usually found in porches, breezeways and other unheated areas.
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SERVICING A CASEMENT WINDOW
1. Freeing the operator. Clean and lubricate a casement window' s working parts at least once a year. Open the window and clean the extension-arm track of old paint and hardened grease with a wire brush. Spray silicone lubricant on all moving parts, along the track and where the extension arm exits from the back of the operator on the window frame.
Loosen the handle setscrew and pull off the handle (inset). Spray lubricant along the gear stem splines. If the operator is broken or a thorough cleaning of its gears is required, you will have to remove it. With the window opened, remove the two, three or four screws that secure the operator to the inside bottom edge of the frame (left). If your casement works with a lever instead of a crank operator, remove the screws that attach the pivot mount to the sill.
2. Removing the extension-arm shoe. To disengage the extension arm from the sash, slide it along the sash until it reaches the access slot. Push the extension arm down and pull its shoe through the slot (above). Some models don't have a slot in the track. Instead, free the extension arm by sliding it off the end of the track. If the window is lever-operated, you will have to unscrew the pivot plate that secures the lever arm to the sash. Set aside all screws for reassembly later.
3. Replacing the operator. Pull the operator free of its slot in the window frame (above). Remove the handle (step 1, inset). Examine the splines of the operator gears and gear stem (inset)\ if clogged with old grease and dirt, soak the operator in commercial mineral spirits or kerosene. Dry it completely before applying white grease or petroleum jelly to the main gear only. If gear or stem splines are rounded or broken, consult a window specialist or the manufacturer for repair or replacement.
To reinstall the operator, reverse the steps taken for removal.
SERVICING AN AWNING WINDOW (Single-vent)
1. Releasing the operator. Open the window as wide as possible. If the sash hinges are old and worn, brace the window with blocks of wood so that the window will not slam shut when the scissor arms and operator are removed. Remove the mounting screws that secure the operator to the window frame (above).
2. Replacing the operator. Reach under the sash and unhook the scissor arms from their F clips on the sash (above, left). For scissor arms that are screwed to the sash, remove the screws. If the window has extension arms that slide along a track on the sash, spread the arms and slide their shoes off each end of the track. In the type shown, straighten the scissor arms, and pull them clear of the window frame (above, right). Clean and lubricate awning window operators as you would casement window operators. If gear or stem splines are rounded or broken, consult a window specialist or the manufacturer for repair or replacement. To reinstall the operator, reverse the steps you took to remove it.
SERVICING AN AWNING WINDOW (Multi-vent)
Lubricating the operator and linkage system. Lubricate the window's moving parts at least once a year. Open the window and spray silicone lubricant through the opening where the gear arm exits from the back of the operator. Remove the operator handle and spray lubricant on the stem splines (above). Also lubricate the linkage joints on both sides of the ventilators and the torque bar that runs along the bottom of the window frame. If the torque bar is covered by a metal casing, first pry it off with an old screwdriver. Snap it back on after lubricating the bar.
Adjusting the vents. To determine which vents need to be adjusted, crank the window closed and test the vents' linkage system by pushing firmly on each vent in turn. If a vent flops rather than snaps back into place, use a screwdriver to adjust the screws on the brackets around the frame (above). To stop a vent from rattling, lower its brackets about 1/16 inch. To loosen a vent that is too tight, raise its bracket the same distance. If any vents are crooked, loosen the bracket screws, align the brackets and retighten the screws. Whenever you make any adjustment, test each of the vents in turn; moving one vent' s brackets will affect the tension of the other vents.
SERVICING AN AWNING WINDOW (Multi-vent, continued)
Removing the operator. Remove a broken operator, or an operator that requires thorough cleaning and lubrication, by unfastening the screws on the front. Support the operator with one hand while you unscrew the link connecting the operator gear arm to the linkage system (above, left). If the arm is connected to the linkage system with a rivet, use a power drill to drill it out. If it uses a stud and snap-on fastener, pry the fastener off with a screwdriver, then pull off the stud. Remove the operator from its slot in the window frame. Clean and lubricate a multi-vent awning window operator as you would a casement window operator. Remove the operator handle. If gears or stem splines are rounded or broken, consult a window specialist or the manufacturer for repair or replacement. To reinstall the operator, reverse the steps you took to remove it. Replace rivets with screws. If the old mounting screw holes are enlarged from wear, use a nut and bolt one size larger and secure it from the outside (above, right). Then, if necessary. cut off the extra length on the inside with a hacksaw and file the bolt flush with the nut.
SERVICING A JALOUSIE WINDOW
Replacing a broken pane. Wearing heavy work gloves, pull down the lip of the jalousie clip and slide out the cracked or broken glass (above). Measure one of the unbroken panes of glass and buy one cut to size. The exposed edges of jalousie panes are rounded for safety.
If you cut your own pane, smooth the edges with an oilstone dipped in water before installing it.
Servicing an operator. To remove either a lever operator (above) or a crank operator from a jalousie window, use a screwdriver to unfasten its mounting screws (above, left). Then remove the mounting screw from the operating rod (above, right). If it is connected with a rivet, use a power drill to drill it out. If It is connected with a stud and snap-on fastener, pry off the fastener with a screwdriver first, then pull off the stud. Pull the operator from its slot in the window frame. Clean and lubricate a jalousie operator as you would a casement window opera tor (page 28). If any internal parts are worn or broken, consult a window specialist or the manufacturer for repair or replacement. To rein stall the operator, reverse the steps you took to remove it, substituting screws for any rivets you had to drill out.
SERVICING A JALOUSIE WINDOW (continued)
Replacing a jalousie clip. The lip of a jalousie clip may break off if you bend it too far or too often when replacing a pane. To remove the clip, first remove the glass pane. Then use a power drill to drill out the rivet that holds the clip to the operating rod (above, left). If it has a stud instead, pry off the snap-on fastener with a screwdriver, then pull off the stud. If it has a screw, unscrew it. Pull out the jalousie clip.
Consult a window specialist or the jalousie window manufacturer for a replacement. Insert the new jalousie clip into its slot in the frame and replace the stud or rivet with a sheet-metal screw. Screw the clip back into the operating rod (above, right). Pull down on the lip of the jalousie clip and slide the pane into place. Do not bend the lip of the clip more than necessary.
SERVICING A SLIDING WINDOW
Replacing the insulating foam. If the insulating foam in your sliding window wears out. the sash may rattle in its frame. To replace the foam, remove the sash by pushing, it up while swinging the bottom out.
With the sash out. the liner that holds the foam in place can sometimes simply be twisted out of the top jamb. On some models, you may have to unscrew the liner to expose the foam. Pull it free, as shown. If the foam is glued, pry it out with a screwdriver. If the foam is held in place with screws, remove the screws. Choose a replacement foam of the same type, about 1/2 inch thicker than the original. Use scissors to cut it to the length of the top jamb and install it by reversing the steps you took for removal.
Replacing window glides. Bottom rail glides wear out and can be replaced. Remove the sash as described at left. Clamp the sash down on a flat surface with C clamps and remove the framing screws that secure the rails to the stiles (inset). Using a rubber mallet and a block of wood to protect the window, knock the bottom rail free (page 33. step 2). Insert a screwdriver into the channel in the bottom rail and force out the glide (above). Some sliding windows run on as many as four glides in each rail. Take the worn guide to a window specialist or contact the manufacturer for an exact replacement. To install a new guide, reverse the steps you took to remove the old one.
SERVICING A PATIO DOOR TRACK
1. Removing a patio door. Slide the door about halfway along the track. With a helper, lift the door up off the rolling surface (inset), pushing it into the top jamb, as shown. Carefully swing the bottom of the door out Some very old patio doors can only be removed from the outside. If there is a fixed panel, unscrew any brackets that hold it in place, slide it to the center of the track and lift it out. Then lift out the patio door itself. After completing the necessary repairs (step 2 or step 3), replace the door, reversing the steps you took to remove it.
2. Installing a steel cap. Sometimes the protruding rolling surface of a sliding door's track gets dented by constant wear and tear. If the damage isn't too severe, it the track with a U-shaped steel cap for the door to run along. Consult a window specialist to choose a cap that will fit your door's rollers. Have a cap cut to the length of your rack. Snap the cap onto the rolling surface as shown above and press it down firmly. In most cases the weight of the door will keep he cap in place. If it doesn't, drill a hole into he side jamb just above the steel cap. Insert a screw so that its head holds down the cap. Replace the door and slide it along the track. If the door fits too tightly, adjust the roller assembly (step 1).
3. Repairing the track. When damage to the rolling surface of the track hampers the opening and closing of your patio door, cut off and replace the rolling surface. Using a sharp cold chisel and a ball-peen hammer, cut the rolling surface away from the track. Begin at one end (above, left) and cut along its base until it separates from the track. Smooth any jagged edges left on the track surface with a metal file or a power drill with a grinder attachment.
Leave one inch of roughness at each end to serve as a guide when laying down the replacement piece. Take the old rolling surface to a window and door specialist or contact the patio door manufacturer; you need an exact match. Have it cut 1 inch shorter than the original piece. Place it on the track surface, using the rough edges at each end to line it up. If your new piece doesn't come predrilled, wear safety goggles and use a power drill to countersink holes 8 to 10 inches apart through the edges of the rolling surface and into the track (above, right). Insert one screw at each end. Replace the door and slide it along to see that it operates smoothly.
With the door in place, install the rest of the screws the same way.
SERVICING A PATIO DOOR ROLLER ASSEMBLY
1. Adjusting the rollers. If your patio door has trouble running smoothly, adjust the roller assembly screws. If it sticks at the top insert a screwdriver into the adjusting screw in the roller at the bottom and turn it counterclockwise. If it rubs too tightly in the track at the bottom, turn the screws clockwise. You may need help to raise the door slightly to take the pressure off the roller assembly so the screws can be adjusted. Get a helper to wedge a strong screwdriver or utility bar between the door and the track. Be careful, the door is heavy.
Slide the door along the track to see that it is even. If the roller assembly needs servicing, go on to step 2.
2. Removing the bottom rail. Remove a roller assembly for cleaning or replacement. Take down the door, and lay it flat on a work table with its bottom over the edge as shown. Unscrew the framing screws that secure the bottom rail to the stiles. Hammer off the bottom rail with a rubber mallet, using a block of wood to protect the door and glass. On some doors, like this one. you may first have to knock the stiles out slightly to keep the roller adjusting screws from interfering with the removal of the bottom rail.
3. Removing a patio door roller. Use a screwdriver to remove the screw that holds the roller assembly in the rail (above, left) if the roller is held m place with a steel pin, turn the rail on its side and raise it on a small block of wood. Then drive the pin out with a hammer and nail set. Slide the roller assembly out with a screwdriver (above, right). Repeat for the other roller. Inspect them carefully; they may only need a good cleaning. Soak the assemblies in kerosene or mineral spirits and dry them well. If a roller is damaged, replace it with an exact duplicate. Reinstall the rollers and the rail by reversing the steps you took to remove them.