Traditional in appearance, and made with modest materials, this pine
bookcase will be perfectly at home in a casual setting. It is constructed
from standard- sized rack pine boards and stock molding.
Materials needed
The sides and shelves of this case are made from 1 by 12 pine shelving. Nearly all lumberyards have bins of this material. When selecting boards, bear in mind that, although a few knots will add charm to your project, you should try to find wood that is free from large, loose, or numerous knots. You will need two 72-inch side pieces and enough board to cut 24- inch-long pieces for the top, bottom, and each shelf.
Building the basic case
1. Cut ¾-inch-wide by 3/8” dadoes and rabbets on side pieces to accept top and bottom panels.
Along back inside edges of both side pieces and the top piece, cut 1/4-inch-wide by ¾-inch-deep rabbets to accept back panel.
2. Measure and drill 2 rows of holes into each side piece for the shelf supports. Space holes 2 inches apart in vertical rows 1½-inches from front and back edges. Use a drill guide with a stop to prevent drilling completely through sides.
3. Rip-cut ¼-inch from the piece that forms the bottom shelf so that back panel will fit.
4. Assemble top, bottom, and sides using glue and 4d finishing nails. Make sure bottom shelf is seated in dado, check for square, and let dry. 5. Measure the size for the back panel. It should fit into rabbets cut at back of main assembly and overlap back of bottom shelf. Cut a piece of ¼-inch plywood to fit, and fasten it with glue and 2d finishing nails.
Assembly of case
Applying the trim
Pine lath in several widths is generally available from the lumberyard. Buy the sanded 4-side (S4S) variety, not rough lath used in plastering. Where pieces of wide lath are edge- glued together at top and bottom of face frame, back up the joint on the inside with another piece of lath.
1. Edge-glue enough lath together to make 4-inch by 24¾” pieces for both top and bottom of face frame. If you desire a decorative cutout in the top piece, as shown in the illustration, make it now. Glue and nail top piece to main assembly, attaching it 1 inch down from the top.
If large doors are part of your design, make the face frame from 1-by stock rather than lath.
2. Lay 1-inch-wide side pieces of lath in place, butted against upper piece already attached to case. Mark position of top surface of bottom shelf and cut side pieces to fit. Glue and nail lath to sides, flush with outside edges.
3. Glue and nail remaining part of face frame into position against bottom edges of side pieces. Make top edge flush with top of bottom panel.
Pediment and base molding
When creating the pediment for this cabinet, you may find it easier to join the crown molding to the 1 by 4, as shown, let glue set, and cut the 3 sections needed in a miter box or with a radial arm saw. The alternative is to cut and fit pieces separately, but this increases the chance for error. If you use the latter method, cut and attach the 1 by 4s first. 1. Glue together pieces needed for pediment. Cut front piece of crown molding assembly first, making miters at both ends. Make sure that shorter edge equals outside case dimension. Cut miters at front ends of side pieces, hold them against case, and mark correct length. Make straight cuts at this mark, and attach side pieces of pediment to case.
2. Measure and cut base molding in the same manner as crown molding, also starting with piece at front. Attach pieces to case with glue and 4d finishing nails.
Finishing details
1. Measure and cut as many shelf boards as needed (4 or 5 should be sufficient). Length of each board depends on type of shelf supports to be used. Rip 5/16 inch off each shelf to allow for thickness of back panel. If you are not installing shelves, plan interior divisions and inserts now, and install them.
2. Countersink all nails with a nail set, then fill holes and any gaps. When the filler is dry, sand whole project, and apply finish of your choice.
Pediment and base assembly: 1x4 with milled edge; Crown molding;
Mitered 1x4s to form base: Rout pattern or attach molding along top edges
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