Scaled-up version of this cabinet design is often used for built-
ins such as kitchen cabinets. This case can also be freestanding.
The basic dimensions of the cabinet shown are 36 inches wide by 30 inches high by 18 inches deep. The cabinet can be built in the material of your choice and all dimensions can be changed to suit.
Building sides and base
1. From 3 stock, cut 2 panels 17¼-inches by 29¼ inches. Cut a 3 1/2-inch-square notch at lower front corner of each panel, creating a mirrored pair.
2. On inner side of each panel, rout a ¾-inch-wide by ¼-inch-deep groove from front to back. Bottom edge of groove should be even with top of the 3½-inch cutout. These grooves will support the bottom panel. Cut a 3/8” by ¼-inch-deep rabbet on the inside back edge of each side piece. These rabbets will accept the ¼-inch plywood back panel. Rout additional grooves if you plan to install any fixed shelves; drill holes for adjustable shelf supports.
3. From ¾-inch sheet material, cut a base panel 35 inches by 17 inches. From 1 by 2 stock, cut a 34½-inch-long nailer.
4. Carefully assemble pieces as shown, using glue and 4d finishing nails. Check square before glue sets.
Making the face frame
Normally constructed of 1 by 2 wood, the face frame is one of the most visible parts of the cabinet and also provides support for hanging doors.
When planning the face frame, remember that the edging that you will attach to the lap panel overlaps the upper portion of the face frame. If the overlap will be particularly deep, ad- lust dimension of top rail of face frame accordingly.
1. Lay out parts of face frame, care fully making sure that outside dimensions are 36 inches wide by 25 inches high. Correct measurements are critical as the frame determines the door and drawer openings.
Any of several types of joints may be used to join the corners; a few are illustrated.
2. Tip previously assembled portion of case onto its back. Before setting face frame in place, cut and fit a piece of 1 by 4 across bottom for the toe kick. Secure it in place with glue and 4d finishing nails.
3. Attach face frame to front of case using glue and 4d finishing nails.
Attaching the top
If you plan to use this cabinet in the kitchen, consider finishing off the top with plastic laminate or ceramic tile. A natural wood top may make the cabinet conform to the style of the living areas of your home.
1. Measure outside dimensions of cabinet and add at least 1/16-inch, more if you want a larger overhang. From ¾” plywood, cut top panel to these dimensions.
2. Carefully cut three 1 by 2 edging strips. Since these strips are attached to side and front edges of top, where they are visible, take care to miter corners for a precise fit.
Attach strips flush with top surface of top panel unless you plan to tile the surface. If this is the case, overlap top surface by the depth of the tile to create an edging. Secure strips to top edge with glue and finishing nails.
Finishing touches
You are now ready to set all nails, fill holes and gaps, and sand the cabinet. However, before applying the finish, add the doors, drawers, shelves, trays, and dividers selected from the “Adding Features” section.
Case assembly; Face frame; Top: Solid edging mitered at 2 front
corners, glued and nailed
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