This design has an elegant simplicity, yet the construction is complex
enough to offer an interesting challenge as well as the opportunity to
master a number of woodworking techniques.
As shown here, the bookcase is 36 inches wide by 60 inches high. You may want to alter the size so that it fits your particular space. If so, consider the lines and proportions of the room in which it will stand. A bookcase that is the same height as the door, for instance, or that aligns with the tops of the window frames, will be a harmonious addition.
Shelves longer than 30 inches are likely to sag unless they are reinforced. If you want a wider bookcase, think about adapting the design to make the shelves stronger and more rigid. (See prev. discussion for a list of ways to increase the load-bearing capacity of a shelf.) Another option is to build two bookcases and stand them side by side, thereby creating the illusion of a single, larger unit.
This bookcase has a face frame to make it more rigid and to cover ex posed edges of plywood. This is not a structural element. The case can also be constructed from either 1-by or 2-by solid lumber.
Building the case
1. Rip a sheet of 3 oak plywood into 3 strips, each 11 inches wide. From these strips, cut 2 side panels, each 60 inches long; and 1 top and 1 base, each 29¼ inches long.
2. Rip plywood shelves to 10½ inches wide. Shelves are narrower than other pieces to allow for the 1/4-inch back and the ¼-inch shelf edging. Cut 4 pieces, each 29¼ inches long.
3. Lay 2 side panels side by side with top and bottom edges lined up. On inside faces, measure and mark position of top piece (3/4-inch from top edge) and bottom shelf (1½-inches from bottom edge). Carefully join marks across full width of both boards. These are the guidelines for cutting rabbets at the top and dadoes at the bottom, so make sure that they are square and true and that side pieces match exactly.
4. Mark positions for the 4 shelves in the same way. In this bookcase, shelves are placed 15, 27, 39, and 50 inches from the bottom, but these positions can be changed to suit.
5. Cut 3/8” by 3/8” dadoes to accommodate shelves and a 3/8” rabbet in each side panel to accept top.
6. Cut ¼-inch-wide by 3 rabbets along back edges of top, sides, and bottom. These will accommodate back panel.
Edging the shelves
1. From 1 by 2 solid oak, rip 4 strips, each ¼ inch thick by 3% inch wide, for shelf edging. Cut strips the same length as shelves.
2. Apply a light coat of glue to front edge of each shelf, then nail on edging, placing a finishing nail at each end and one in the middle. Set nail heads and fill holes.
3. When glue is dry, scrape off excess and sand carefully so that edging is flush with plywood surface.
Assembling the case
1. On one side piece, apply a small amount of glue to top rabbet. Set top piece in rabbet, making sure that rabbet in back panel lines up with the one in side piece. Cross-nail top to side, using 4 nails driven alternately from sides and from top. Position outermost nails about ½ to ¾” from each edge.
2. Apply a little glue to dado for bottom piece. Set bottom piece into place, making sure that 1/4-inch rabbet is at the back, face up. Nail from outside to secure bottom.
3. Apply a little glue to dadoes for shelves. Seat each shelf well into groove so that edge facing of shelf is flush with front edge of side piece.
4. Nail shelves into place from the outside, using 2 finishing nails on both ends of each shelf.
5. Apply glue to rabbet and dadoes of second side piece. Carefully fit top, bottom, and shelves into place. Check case for square and nail pieces in place.
6. From a sheet of ¼-inch-thick ply wood, cut back panel to 29¼ inches by 58¼ inches. Sand side of back panel that will be exposed to view.
7. From back of bookcase, nail panel into place, squaring it as you go.
8. Clamp case and allow glue to dry.
Case assembly: 1/4” wide x 3/8” deep rabbets along back edges;
¼”x ¾” oak strips for edging
Making the face frame
1. From 1 by 2 oak, cut 2 stiles (vertical pieces) to 60 inches long and 2 rails (horizontal pieces) to length. (Rails should fit exactly inside stiles when stiles are flush with out side edges of case—approximately 27 inches. Measure to be sure.)
2. On a flat surface, align rails squarely inside stiles. Mark 2 lines across each joint with a pencil and square. These are the guidelines for placing dowels.
3. Using an adjustable doweling jig, drill holes to accept ¼-inch dowels, making them slightly more than 1 inch deep.
4. Apply glue along end grain and in dowel holes in rails. Tap in dowels.
5. Put glue in dowel holes in stiles. Tap assembly together.
6. Check face frame for square, clamp it, and let glue dry.
7. Apply adhesive to exposed ply wood edges on front of bookcase. Fit face frame to case so that all outside edges are flush and bottom rail aligns with top of lowest shelf. Nail face frame into place and clamp it.
8. Set nails and fill holes. Let case dry. When glue is completely dry, scrape off excess and sand entire case. Finish it as desired.
Pedestal base
A pedestal base will give the book case a less massive appearance by creating a shadow and a sense of space beneath it. You can make a base out of the extra strip of plywood from which you cut the bookcase components.
Assembling the base
1. Cut a 5-inch-wide by 96-inch-long plywood strip in half. (Two 48-inch lengths are easier to handle when you are cutting in a miter box.)
2. Place one 48-inch length in miter box and cut 1 piece 10¾- inches long and 1 piece 28 3/8-inches long. Cut 45-degree miters at both ends. (Given length refers to longest side.) Cut other 48-inch-long piece in the same way.
3. Apply glue to end grain of miters on 1 short piece and 1 long piece. Fit them together and cross-nail with finishing nails. Set nail heads. Fasten the other 2 pieces together in the same way, then fasten the 2 L-shaped pieces to each other. Check for square, clamp, and allow to dry.
Clean off excess glue, fill nail holes, sand, and finish.
4. Put pedestal in place. Set book case on it so that bottom shelf sits on pedestal and face frame and sides overlap pedestal.
Bookcase should be very stable when you set it on the base. How ever, if you desire, you can attach the 2 pieces together with L brackets.
Face frame: Drill ¼” dia. holes about 1” deep. Glue end grain
and holes. Tap together; Check for square and let dry. Apply glue to exposed
edges of case, nail and clamp; Pedestal base: Glue and nail base.
Place case over base; attach with L brackets
Prev.: Simple
Plywood Cabinet
Next: Tall
Pine Bookcase
Full guide: How to Plan & Build Bookcases, Cabinets & Shelves
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