==Sewing tools=== Measuring devices Conversion to metric system---In anticipation of the change from inch-foot-yard to metric measurements, many measuring devices have been redesigned to show both. More such dual-purpose devices will appear in the future. Take care, in using any such device, that you do not interchange inch and centimeter measurements. Skirt marker is an easy-to-use, accurate tool for marking hems. Of the various types, pin marker is most exact, but takes two people; chalk model can be operated without assistance, but chalk will not come out of some fabrics. Pin-and- chalk combination available. Buy marker that is adjustable to all fashion lengths. Tape measure is essential for taking body measurements. Best tape choice is flexible synthetic or fiberglass, which will not tear or stretch; 60” length with measurements on both sides; made with metal-tipped (non-fraying) ends. T-square is useful for locating cross grains; altering patterns; squaring off straight edges. Best type is transparent with easy-to-read markings. Sewing gauge is 6” ruler with a sliding marker that adjusts to desired measurement, keeps it constant when marking. Ideal for hems, tucks, pleats, or button spacing. Adjustable slider. Dressmaker’s gauge measures different size scallops; straight side will measure buttonholes, pleats, tucks. Hem gauge speeds marking of straight or curved hems; edge is turned and pressed in one step. Useful, too, for adjusting pattern lengths. Transparent ruler lets you see what you measure or mark. Select one of flexible plastic (will measure slight curves), 12” or 18” long. Ruler is useful to check grainline of fabric; to mark buttonholes, tucks, pleats, bias strips; and as a guide for tracing wheel. Different widths between slots. French curve is useful when re-drawing construction lines on patterns, especially in curved areas, such as armholes, necklines, princess seams. Yardstick is best device for taking long, straight measurements. Good also for checking grainlines, marking hems. Be sure surface of wood is smooth. --------P9 
(above) Marking devices Pin, Chalk insert, Chalk refill Tailor tacker with chalk inserts in various colors transfers construction markings to both sides of fabric in one time- saving operation. Tailor’s chalk wedges (here with holder) are ideal for construction markings and fitting alterations; come in several colors. Wax type difficult to remove from hard surfaced fabrics. Chalk sharpener. Chalk in pencil form [Chalk Insert] is used like any pencil; makes a thin, accurate line, fine for marking pleats, buttonholes, and similar details. Chalk colors include white and pastel shades. Tailor’s chalk pencil (top) comes with chalk refills; dress maker’s pencil (bottom) has handy brush eraser. Tracing wheels are used with dressmaker’s tracing paper to transfer pattern markings to fabric. Usual choice is serrated edge wheel (top), suitable for most fabrics, Smooth-edged wheel (bottom) makes firmer markings on hard-to-mark fabrics; protects delicate, smooth ones.
Bent-handle dressmaker’s shears are best for pattern cutting; angle of lower blade lets fabric lie flat. Made in 6” to 12” lengths; 7” and 8” are used most often. Left-hand model available, also special shears for synthetics and knits. Pinking shears cut zigzag, ravel-resistant edge. Excellent for finishing seams and raw edges on many types of fabric, also for decorative use. Should not be used to cut out pattern. Come in 5 1/2” to 10 1/2” lengths; 7 1/2” is a good choice. Scalloping shears work like pinking shears but cut more ravel-resistant edge—each round edge becomes bias. Lingerie shears cut sheerest fabric, trim close to stitching line. Serrated blades prevent slipping or stretching. Finger guide aids control. Sewing scissors come in 5” and 6” lengths. One blunt point prevents the snagging of fabric when trimming. Embroidery scissors, useful as well for general needlework, ripping, clipping, buttonholes. Tailors’ points have sturdy blades for easy clipping into hair canvas, heavy fabrics. Sewing supplies: Thread Thread for constructing a garment should be compatible with the fiber content and weight of the fabric. Interaction is best, where it is feasible, between thread and fabric of like sources-both synthetic, say, or both derived from animal or plant sources. Where exceptions are made, the reasons are practical; synthetic thread, for example, because of its stretchability, is best for any knit, regardless of fiber content. The chart below defines the most used thread types and gives recommendations for their use. Size numbers are given where they apply. The higher the number, the finer the thread; the median size is 50. Where letters denote size, A is fine, D is heavy. Use thread one shade darker than the fabric; for a print or plaid, the dominant color. THREAD | FIBERS AND USAGE [ Basting Button and carpet Darning cotton Elastic Embroidery floss Extra-fine General purpose Heavy-duty Metallic Quilting Silk twist ] [Cotton: A loosely twisted thread used for hand basting. Loose twist makes it easy to break for quick removal from the garment. Available only in white--safest because there is no dye to rub off on fabric. Cotton; cotton-wrapped polyester: Tough, thick thread (size 16) used for hand-sewing jobs requiring super thread strength. Thread usually has "glazed" finish that makes it easier to slip through heavy fabric, Cotton: A very fine thread used for darning and mending. Strands can be separated, if desired, for work requiring even finer thread. Nylon/cotton-wrapped rubber: A thick, very stretchy thread used for shirring on sewing machine. Elastic thread is wound on bobbin only. Cotton; rayon: Six thread strands twisted loosely together, made for decorative hand work. Strands can be separated for very fine work. Cotton; polyester; cotton-wrapped polyester: Thread (approximately size 60) used for lingerie or other work requiring a fine thread. Cotton: A medium thickness (size 50) is available in a wide range of colors (other sizes made in black and white only). Used for machine and hand sewing on light- and medium-weight cottons, rayons, and linens. Cotton thread is usually mercerized, a finishing process that makes it smooth and lustrous, also helps it to take dye better. The lack of give in cotton thread makes it an unwise choice for knits or other stretchy fabrics, as the stitches tend to pop. Silk: A fine (size A), strong thread for hand and machine sewing on silk and wool, Its fineness makes it ideal for basting all fabric types, as it does not leave holes from stitching or imprints after pressing. Because of its elasticity, silk is also suitable for sewing any type of knit. Recommended for tailoring because it can be molded along with the fabric in shaped areas. Nylon: A fine (size A), strong thread for hand and machine sewing on light to medium-weight synthetics. Especially suited to nylon tricot. Polyester: An all-purpose weight (approximately size 50), suitable for hand and machine sewing on most fabrics, but particularly recommended for woven synthetics, also for knits and other stretch fabrics of any fiber. Most polyester threads have a wax or silicone finish to help them slip through fabric with a minimum of friction. Cotton-wrapped polyester: An all-purpose weight (approximately size 50) for hand and machine sewing on knits or wovens, of synthetic or natural fibers, or blends. Polyester core gives this thread strength and elasticity; cotton wrapping, a tough, heat-resistant surface. Cotton; polyester; cotton-wrapped polyester: Coarse thread (approximately size 40) used where extra strength is required for hand or machine sewing of heavy vinyl, coating, or upholstery fabrics. Metallized synthetic: Shiny silver- or gold-colored thread, used for decorative stitching by hand or machine. Cotton: "Glazed" thread (size 40) used for hand or machine quilting. Silk: Coarse thread (size D) used for topstitching and hand-worked button holes, also for decorative hand sewing and sewing on buttons. Metals of which straight pins are made: Brass: Soft metal; does not rust; usually nickel retains sharp point for a long time. Steel: Sturdy metal; can rust; usually nickel least expensive; can be picked up magnetically. Soft meta does; Sturdy metal; Stainless steel: Strong metal; does not rust; .can also be picked up magnetically. T-pin Flat pin Color ball pin *Nickel plating sometimes leaves a black mark on fabric. Hand needles: 
 
Many types of needles are made for hand sewing, each for a s purpose. These vary according to eye shape (long or round), length (in proportion to eye), and point (sharp, blunt, ball-point, or wedge). The chart below describes the basic types. Each embraces a range of sizes; the larger a number, the shorter and finer the needle. Examples are illustrated in comparable sizes to show the proportion from one type to another. For matching needle to job, consider the kind of work being done (some needles are named for their principal purpose, such as "crewel"), fabric structure (knitted or woven), weight, and thread thickness. Generally, a needle should be fine enough to slip easily through fabric, yet heavy enough not to bend or break. Long-eyed needles are designed to accommodate thick thread or several strands. Whatever the type, always work with a clean, well-pointed needle. === GENERAL HAND SEWING This group of hand needles is used for general-purpose sewing. Most of them are sharp needles and each has a size range sufficient to accommodate most weights of fabrics, Sharps (sizes 1-12) are the hand sewing needles in most common use. They are medium length and have a round eye. Suitable for al most all fabric weights. Betweens (sizes 1-12) are also known as quilting needles. Their shorter length enables them to take fine stitches in heavy fabric. Milliners (sizes 3/0-12) are longer than others in group, useful for basting. Ball-points (sizes 5-10) resemble sharps except for the point, which is rounded to penetrate between knit yarns. Calyx-eyes (sizes 4-8) are like sharps except thread is pulled into a slot rather than through an eye. === NEEDLECRAFT This group of hand needles is used primarily for a variety of art and needlecraft purposes, such as em broidery, needlepoint, and decorative beading. Crewels (sizes 1-10) are sharp, medium-length nee dies used primarily for em broidery work. Long eye allows several strands of embroidery floss to be threaded. Chenilles (sizes 13-26) are sharp and heavy for use in embroidering with yarn, Beading needles (sizes 10- 15) are thin and long for beading and sequin work. Tapestry needles (sizes 13- 26) are heavy and have blunt points. Used mainly for needlepoint and tapestry work, they can also serve the purpose of a bodkin. ==== DARNING These needles are used primarily for darning. They vary in length and diameter to accommodate most darning or mending jobs. Cotton darners (sizes 1-9) are designed for darning with fine cotton or wool, Double longs (sizes 5/0-9) are like cotton darners but longer and therefore able to span larger holes. Yarn darners (sizes 14-18) are long and heavy, necessities for darning with yarn. ==== HEAVY-DUTY SEWING---These hand needles are ideal for heavy sewing lobs. Both the glover and sailmaker types have wedge-shaped points that pierce leather and leather like fabrics in such a way that the holes resist tearing. Glovers (sizes 3/0-8) are short, round-eye needles with triangular points that will pierce leather, vinyl, or plastic without tearing them. Sailmakers (sizes 14-17) are like glovers except that their triangular point extends part way up the shaft. Sailmakers are used on canvas and heavy leather. Curved needles (sizes 1 1/2"- 3") are intended for use on upholstery, braided rugs, or lampshades-anywhere that a straight needle would be awkward. Some curved needles are double-pointed. |
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