Fix-it-Yourself--Major Appliances: CLOTHES WASHERS

Its myriad cycles and settings make a clothes washer seem far too complex to fix. But if tackled logically and systematically, repairing a washer is well within the skills of most do-it yourselfers.

When something does go wrong, service technicians locate and fix the trouble by dividing the washer into three systems. Then they examine one system at a time. The plumbing system brings in and circulates water through the pump and a network of hoses; the electrical system energizes the machine through the control switches, motor, timer, solenoids and their wiring; and the mechanical system—transmission, drive belt, agitator, basket and tub—powers the cleaning action.

To diagnose a problem, first determine where in the operating cycle the problem originated. Then consult the Troubleshooting Guide; its list of possible causes and repair procedures will held you pinpoint the problem and decide what to do. Don’t begin a repair without referring to the pages indicated in the chart. Disassembling your washer in the hope of finding the problem is usually a waste of time.

Though all automatic washers fill, agitate, pump out and spin dry in basically the same way, there are key differences in design and special features from model to model. The two washers pictured below —referred to as Type I and Type II throughout this section— illustrate most of the variations found in modern washers. Your machine will likely resemble one of these two types. Any differences will usually be in the location of parts, rather than in their function or testing procedure. The illustrations will help you recognize a part and understand its function, even if its position is not the same in your washer.

Though similar in appearance to other top-loading washers, the direct-drive washer has a radically different design that greatly simplifies access and repair. Front-loading tumbler washers, in spite of their lower energy costs, are not as popular as the top-loading agitator models shown here.

Most washer repairs require only wrenches, screwdrivers and pliers. To service electrical parts, you will need a continuity tester or a multitester (132). Broken parts, including a faulty motor, are usually replaced rather than rebuilt, although repair kits are available for the pump and several other plumbing components. A faulty transmission, like its counterpart in the family car, can be professionally rebuilt.

A careful reading of your washer’s Use and Care manual, available from the manufacturer, can help prevent problems caused by misuse. When repair is required, always turn off the water faucets to the machine, unplug the power cord, and have a container handy to catch water runoff. Most washers are very heavy; if you plan to lay the machine on the floor for access through the bottom, enlist a helper.

TROUBLESHOOTING GUIDE

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Its myriad cycles and settings make a clothes washer seem far too complex to fix. But if tackled logically and systematically, repairing a washer is well within the skills of most do-it yourselfers.

When something does go wrong, service technicians locate and fix the trouble by dividing the washer into three systems. Then they examine one system at a time. The plumbing system brings in and circulates water through the pump and a network of hoses; the electrical system energizes the machine through the control switches, motor, timer, solenoids and their wiring; and the mechanical system—transmission, drive belt, agitator, basket and tub—powers the cleaning action.

To diagnose a problem, first determine where in the operating cycle the problem originated. Then consult the Troubleshooting Guide; its list of possible causes and repair procedures will held you pinpoint the problem and decide what to do. Don’t begin a repair without referring to the pages indicated in the chart. Disassembling your washer in the hope of finding the problem is usually a waste of time.

Though all automatic washers fill, agitate, pump out and spin dry in basically the same way, there are key differences in design and special features from model to model. The two washers pictured below —referred to as Type I and Type II throughout this section— illustrate most of the variations found.

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Agitator

Works clothes through water during wash and• rinse cycles.

Rinse switch

Some models; activates a second rinse cycle.

Timer

On most models, one dial controls the sequence of cycles and turns machine on and off.

Water recirculation nozzle

Recycles water from tub through filter and into basket during wash

Self-cleaning filter

Collects lint from wash water and flushes it down drain.

Tub

Holds water; drain is at bottom.

Pump

Recirculates water during wash and ‘rinse cycles; pumps water Out during spin cycle.

Pump coupling

Connects pump to clutch.

Clutch

Transfers motor rotation to drive belt.

Drive belt

Transfers power from clutch to transmission.

TYPE II WASHER

Water level switch

Senses pressure of water rising in tub; highest fill level is preset , and should not be adjusted.

Water temperature switch

Controls water inlet valve; may be rotary or pushbutton.

Speed control switch

Sets agitation and spin speeds for fabric type.

Water inlet

Sprays water into basket during fill cycle.

Basket

Holds clothes; rotates within tub.

Basket boot

Helps secure basket to transmission shaft, agitator and Transmission boot

Seal between tub and transmission.

Motor

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ACCESS THROUGH THE CONTROL CONSOLE

1 Unscrewing the control console. Disconnect power to the washer. To free the control console of most washers, you must remove retaining screws from the bottom front corners of the console. The screws may be hidden by a strip of adhesive trim, as shown. Other washers may have screws on the top or at the back of the console.

2 Rolling the console panel forward. Drape a towel over the top of the washer to protect its enamel finish. Tilt the control console forward and rest it on the washer top. If the console has a back panel, unscrew and remove it. You now have access to the timer and switches (above). The wiring diagram for Type II washers is often located inside the console as well.

ACCESS THROUGH THE TOP

Raising the washer top. Tape down the lid so that it won’t swing open when the top is raised. On some Type II models, the recirculation nozzle under the lid must first be detached from the plastic cover shield. The washer top is held down by a spring clip near each corner. Slip a putty knife, the blade padded with masking tape, between the washer top and chassis near each corner, and push against the spring clips to release the top (above, left). If the spring clips are too stiff to release easily with the putty knife, lift the lid and grasp the inner edge of the washer opening. Jerk the top forward and up to unlock the clips (above, center). Lean the top against a wall, or support it with a length of heavy cord or a chain (above, right). You now have access to the snubber, splash guard, inlet and agitator.

ACCESS THROUGH THE REAR PANEL

Removing the rear panel. Some washer components can be reached through an opening in the back of the chassis. Unplug the washer and pull it away from the wall. A Type II washer is very heavy; you may need help to move it. Unscrew the rear panel and set it aside. With the rear panel of a Type I washer removed (above, left), you have access to the motor, drive belt, wigwag, and back filter if your model has one. You can also top up the transmission oil from this position (110). After removing the back panel of a Type II washer (above, right), you have access to the water inlet valve, pump, drive belt, motor and motor start relay.

ACCESS THROUGH THE BOTTOM

Getting to parts through the bottom. Unplug the washer. Shut off the faucets and detach the water inlet hoses. Have a bucket handy to catch dripping water, and bail or siphon out any water in the tub. To perform a quick check, pull a Type I washer about 2 feet from the wall and tilt it back (above, left). Be absolutely certain its position is secure, and the control console is firmly attached, before looking inside. For actual repairs, lay a Type I washer front down on the floor (above, right). Protect the floor with newspaper; the transmission of a Type I washer will probably leak oil in this position. With the bottom exposed, you have access to a Type I washer’s trap and filter, pump, drive belt, tran motor and motor start switch. On a Type II washer, removing the drive motor is the only repair performed through the washer bottom.

SERVICING THE WATER LEVEL SWITCH ASSEMBLY

1 Inspecting the air hose and air pressure dome. Turn off and unplug the washer. Remove the control console (96).

Check the air hose (inset); straighten any kinks and replace it if perforated. Remove the air hose from the water level switch and blow through it to clear any trapped water. Reconnect the air hose to the water level switch. Next, raise the top of the washer (96) and, on a Type I washer, follow the hose down the right side to the air pres sure dome (above). The connection should be completely airtight. If the dome is cracked, or if the seal between the dome and tub is bro ken, replace the dome. To remove it, pull off the hose, depress the dome and turn it counterclockwise one-quarter turn. Reverse the procedure to install a new dome.

2. Testing a water level switch in the EMPTY position.

Inspect the wire connectors; if they are burned or loose, splice on new connectors (136). Label and remove the three wires from their terminals on the water level switch. Test each terminal against the other two with a continuity tester, as shown. The tester should indicate continuity across one pair of terminals, and resistance across the other two pairs. If not, the water level switch is broken and should be replaced (step 4).

3 Testing the water level switch in the FULL position. After pulling the air hose off the switch's port, attach a shorter tube of the same diameter and blow very gently through it into the switch. You should hear a click when the switch trips to the FULL position. While blowing through the tube, test the terminals with a continuity tester as in step 2. This time a different pair of terminals should show continuity; the other two should show resistance. If you don’t hear a click, or you have trouble blowing gently and evenly into the tube, reconnect the air hose, fill the washer with water, unplug the machine and test the switch again. If the switch fails the test, replace it (step 4).

4. Replacing the water level switch. Pull off the water level switch control knob, if any. Remove the tube from the switch's port and unscrew the water level switch bracket from inside the control console. Don’t turn the calibration screw; the slightest adjustment could result in the tub overflowing. The mounting bracket of a Type I water level switch often has a tab that fits into a slot in the control panel. Screw the bracket of the new switch inside the console, reconnect the air hose and the terminal wires, push on the control knob and replace the console.

TESTING AND REPLACING THE TIMER

1 Testing and replacing the timer. Unplug the washer and remove the control panel (96). Check the washer's wiring diagram for the terminals that control the broken cycle, and disconnect and label those wires. (Some timers have a harness plug, as shown; just pull off the plug to expose the terminals.) Set the control knob to the affected cycle and touch the probe of a continuity tester or a multitester set at RX1 to each terminal (above). The tester should show continuity; if not, replace the timer. (To test the timer motor, go to step 2.) Remove the control knob and unscrew the timer from the front (inset) or from the back. Screw a new timer in place, plug in the wires and replace the control knob and the console.

2. Testing the timer motor. Label and remove both motor wires from their terminals. Set a multitester to RX1 00 and touch a probe to each terminal (above); the motor should produce a reading of 2,000 to 3,000 ohms. Many timer motors can be replaced separately from the timer; simply remove the two screws that hold the motor on the timer. When installing a new timer motor, make sure that its gear fits back into the hole in the timer cover.

Servicing a plastic timer (Type II washers). Unplug the washer and remove the control console (96). If your Type II washer has a plastic timer, lift off the switch cover by releasing the plastic tab. Check your wiring diagram and timer chart to determine which switch controls the broken cycle. Label and disconnect the wires from those terminals. Testing with a continuity tester or a multitester set at RX1 (left) should show the following results:

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CONTROL KNOB POSITION SWITCH 1 2 I 3 Motor I Special J Main Function Power 3b 4 4b Bypass Wash Sp OFF WASH SPIN open; See open; timer t- chart open; closed open; open closed open closed open closed

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Replace a switch that fails any test. Switches 1 and 3 are easily replaced; remove the screw that secures the switch to the plastic casing and gently pull it free from the timer (inset). The other switches can only be replaced by disassembling the timer; call for service.

TESTING AND REPLACING THE WATER TEMPERATURE SWITCH

Testing the water temperature switch. Unplug the washer and remove the control console (96). The water temperature switch may be rotary, as shown, or pushbutton; both are tested the same way. Check the wiring diagram for the markings used on the terminals that control the inoperative setting. Label and disconnect the wires from these terminals. Turn the knob to the inoperative setting or press the corresponding button. Touch one probe of a continuity tester to each terminal (above, left). The tester should light; if not, replace the switch. Unscrew the old switch from the control console (above, right), install the new switch and transfer the wires.

TESTING AND REPLACING THE LID SWITCH

Inspecting the lid switch. Unplug the washer. To reach a Type I lid switch, loosen the two screws on the right side of the washer top (above, left). Raise the top (96) and unsnap the plastic shield covering the switch (above, center). Examine the switch; if both wires are secured to the terminals, the problem may be a damaged bracket or a broken switch. Lid switches vary in design. Some Type I washers have a mercury switch capsule in a bracket attached to the right lid hinge. Replace a damaged bracket by unscrewing it from the washer chassis. Type II shieldless lid switches have a metal lever; if bent, straighten it by hand. Make sure the lever covers the lid strike hole completely.

To test a switch, label and disconnect the wires. Clip a continuity tester probe to one of the terminals. Touch the second probe to the other terminal while lifting the lever with your finger (above, right). The tester should light, indicating continuity. Release the lever; the continuity tester should not light. If the switch fails either test, replace it. Unscrew a Type I lid switch from inside the washer top and pull off the plastic lever. Fit the new switch in the lever and screw the switch on the washer just until the screws begin to grab. Then reconnect the wires, snap on the plastic shield, and tighten the screws completely. To replace a Type II lid switch, remove the two screws securing it to the inside edge of the washer to p. Position the new switch over the lid strike hole.

SERVICING THE TUB (Type I washers)

1. Removing and inspecting the agitator. Unplug the washer and siphon or bail out any water still in the tub. To remove the agitator from some Type I washers, you must first unscrew a plastic cap that hides a stud-and-seal assembly, then unscrew the stud with a wrench (inset). On others, pry off a lid and unscrew a nut to reach the stud. Lift the agitator off the shaft (above); if it sticks, tap a block of wood against it with a ball-peen hammer. Run your fingers over the agitator fins and inspect the gear teeth inside the agitator column for signs of wear. If there are cracks that might catch fabrics, or if the teeth are worn smooth, replace the agitator.

2 Removing the snubber and spring. To release the snubber, remove the nut and bolt securing the spring to the corner bracket (above). Then pull up the spring with one hand and slip the snubber out from underneath it. If the snubber squeals, sand it (inset) or rub it against a rough surface such as a cement block. Free the spring arm from its hole in the bracket by twisting the spring loop forward and to the right; you may have to remove screws first. Once the arm is off the bracket, pull it through the hole.

3 Checking the water inlet hose and splash guard. The hose and nozzle are obvious sources of leaks. Use hose-clamp pliers to unclip the spring clamp securing the inlet hose to the nozzle (above). If the clamp has lost tension or is corroded, replace it with a screw-type clam p. If the nozzle is cracked, pry it off the splash guard and replace it with a new one. Replace a cracked or brittle inlet hose by pulling it from the inlet valve port behind the tub; install a new hose of exactly the same length. With the inlet hose removed, unhook the clips that secure the splash guard and lift the guard up off the tub rim. Check the gasket for wear: On some models it’s glued to the under surface of the guard; on other is fitted over the rim of the tub. Replace it if damaged.

4 Dislodging the locknut from the shaft. The basket is held on the transmission shaft by a notched nut. To loosen it, wedge the corner of a block of wood into one of the notches, then hit the block with a ball-peen hammer to move the nut counterclockwise, as shown. The basket has a porcelain finish that can be easily chipped if you miss your mark with the hammer. If the nut is frozen to the shaft, use a spanner ring designed for your model (inset), available from an appliance parts dealer.

SERVICING THE TUB (Type I washers, continued)

5 Lifting out the washer basket. Grip the basket firmly on each side, and lift it up and out of the tub in a smooth and steady motion. If the basket is rusted tight to the shaft, spray the shaft with penetrating oil and wait a few minutes, gently rock the basket back and forth, then lift. Scrub the basket inside and out with a stiff-bristled brush, then rub a folded dish towel around the inside. If you feel fabric- damaging roughness, use an emery cloth to smooth the surface. Remove any objects caught in the perforations. Replace the basket if the porcelain finish is cracked or otherwise damaged.

6 Cleaning the tub. Clothes (particularly baby socks or handkerchiefs) sometimes become trapped between the basket and the tub, and may clog the tub drain or the side check valve opening. After removing the basket, wipe out the bottom of the tub, as shown. Scrub the surface clean of built-up mineral or detergent deposits that might obstruct the spinning basket. Use a wire coat hanger to free hard-to-reach material blocking the outlets. If this does not clear the obstruction, disconnect the drain hose that leads from the tub to the pump and clean or replace it.

SERVICING THE TUB (Type II washers)

1 Removing the agitator and basket boot. Unplug the washer and bail out the tub. Most Type II agitators can be pulled off the shaft with a sharp tug on each side of the base. If the agitator sticks, tap it with a ball-peen hammer while pulling, or pry off the cap with a screwdriver and pour hot water or a few drops of oil on the shaft. With a screwdriver, release the spring-loaded tab on the rubber basket boot (above) and lift the boot up off the shaft.

2 Unscrewing the basket. Pull out the recirculation nozzle from the upper edge of the tub. Use a socket wrench and extension to unscrew the three bolts in the floor of the basket (above). Firmly grip the lip of the basket and lift the basket straight up out of the machine. Be careful not to bang the remaining nozzles.

3 Inspecting the drain and transmission boot. Free the drain of obstructions (above) and wipe the surface of the tub clean. Make sure the transmission boot is well-seated and sealed; water leaking through the seal will damage the transmission. If the boot is cracked or brittle, replace it (110).

SERVICING THE WATER INLET VALVE (Type I washers)

1 Inspecting the filter screens. Unplug the washer, turn off the faucets and disconnect the water inlet hoses at both ends. Check the screens regularly for blockage or rust. Using long-nose pliers, pry the screens out of the faucet couplings and the inlet valve ports (above). Clean the screens with an old toothbrush under running water. Plastic screens can be replaced with metal ones but not vice versa.

2 Testing the inlet valve solenoids. Raise the top (96) and lift out the splash guard (101). The inlet valve is in the left rear corner behind the tub. Label and remove the wires from one solenoid. Set a multitester to RX100 and clip a probe to each terminal. You should get a reading of 500-2,000 ohms. Test the second solenoid, if any, the same way. If either solenoid is faulty, replace the entire valve assembly (step 3).

3 Replacing the inlet valve. From inside the washer, unclamp the hose from the inlet valve port, then remove the screws that secure the valve to the back of the cabinet (above). Hold on to the valve with your free hand and pull the valve out through the top. Hold the new valve in position and screw it to the cabinet. Reconnect the wires and hoses.

SERVICING THE WATER INLET VALVE (Type II washers)

Servicing the inlet valve. Follow step 1 (above) to clean the filter screens. To service the valve, unplug the machine, lift the top (96) and remove the back panel (97). Remove the screws holding the inlet valve to the corner bracket (above, left) and the washer cabinet. Then push the inlet valve down so that you can test it through the back of the machine (above, right). Label and disconnect the wires. Set the multitester at RX100 and touch a probe to each terminal of one solenoid; the tester needle should sweep partially upscale, indicating resistance. Test the second solenoid the same way. If the inlet valve is faulty, remove it by unscrewing the clamp securing the hose to the inlet port. Install a new valve by reversing this procedure.

SERVICING THE SELF-CLEANING FILTER AND TRAP (Type I washers)

1. Releasing the filter and tra p. Some Type I washers have self- cleaning filters connected to the tub outlet through a manifold trap. To remove a clogged filter and trap assembly, unplug the washer, turn off the water faucets and detach the hoses. Have a bucket handy to catch dripping water. Bail or siphon out any water remaining in the tub. Lay the washer flat on some newspapers (97). Unscrew the clamp securing the pipe-like manifold trap to the tub outlet (inset). Use a socket wrench to remove the two bolts that hold the plastic filter bracket to the transmission, as shown.

2 Removing and cleaning the trap. The filter ports are clamped to a long hose leading to the tub, and a short hose leading to the pump. Disconnect the long hose from its port on the filter, and disconnect the short hose from its port on the pump. As you pull the filter and trap assembly free (above), notice its proper position for reinstallation. Check the filter and manifold trap for cracks or for debris that may block the flow of water. Tap the end of the trap on the floor to knock out any objects caught inside (inset); pins and buttons are common culprits. If the filter is clogged, replace it. To replace the filter and trap assembly, reverse this procedure.

Alternate filters. Some older Type I washers have a self-cleaning filter in the lower right rear corner of the cabinet (above, left). To replace it, remove the single screw that secures it to the cabinet and use pliers to unclamp the hoses. Other Type I models use a ring filter (above, center) that snaps on the bottom of the basket. To remove it, take out the basket, turn it over and use a screwdriver to pry off the four clips securing the ring filter to the base of the basket. More recent models have a tub-mounted filter attached with a special locknut that also holds the side check valve in place (above, right). The drain hose exits through the lower left rear corner of the cabinet. Replacement of this filter is difficult and rarely required. If it must be removed, call for service.

REPLACING THE PUMP (Type I washers)

1 Unclamping the pump hoses. A pump may have two, three or four ports, and may be made of metal or plastic. Most pumps are designed to be thrown out when broken. To remove a pump, you must disconnect the hoses. Unplug the washer, turn off the faucets and detach the hoses. Have a bucket handy to catch dripping water.

Bail or siphon out any water still in the washer basket. Lay the washer flat on newspaper (97). Washers with self-cleaning filters usually have two-port pumps; one hose connects to the filter, the other to the trap. Use hose-clamp pliers to loosen the clamps on the two hoses (above) and pull the hoses off the ports.

2. Unscrewing the bolts. Use a socket wrench with an extension to reach the two pump mounting bolts (above). Sometimes one of the bolts is shared with the filter. After releasing the pump, replace this bolt. As you pull the pump free, notice for replacement purposes how the control lever on top of the pump engages in the slot in the agitator cam bar on the transmission. Inspect the pump for dam age. Look into the ports for any visible obstruction. When you move the lever, the flapper valve inside should open and close the ports tightly. Spin the pump pulley. A wobbly pulley, broken flapper valve or cracked plastic shell are all indications that you need a new pump.

3 Installing a new pump. Position the pump so that the control lever slips into the slot of the agitator cam bar on the transmission (inset). Bolt the pump to the transmission. Work the hoses back onto the ports and reposition the clamps.

REPLACING THE PUMP (Type II washers)

1 Removing the screw clamp from the pump coupling. Unplug the washer. Turn off the faucets and detach the hoses. Ready a bucket to catch water runoff, and bail or siphon any water in the tub. Pull the washer out from the wall and remove the rear access panel (97). Unscrew the clamp securing the pump coupling to the pump, as shown.

2 Dismounting the pump. Use a socket wrench to unscrew the three screws that hold the pump to the tub (above) and lift out the pum p. Slide the hose clamps off the pump ports and pull the hoses free. Inspect the pum p. Impellers jammed by foreign objects can sometimes be released by pulling the object out through a port.- Dam aged impellers, cracks or leaking seals mean the pump must be discarded. Install an exact replacement, reattach the hoses, tighten the hose clamps, and secure the pump to the coupling.

ADJUSTING AND REPLACING THE DRIVE BELT (Type I washers)

1. Adjusting the drive belt. Unplug the machine and turn off the faucets. Pull the washer away from the wall and remove the back panel (97). Press the drive belt with your thumb; it should not deflect more than 1/2 inch. To tighten the belt, loosen the motor bracket nut just enough so that the motor can be shifted slightly. Tap the right edge of the drive motor bracket with a ball-peen hammer, as shown, to tighten the belt. When the belt tension feels correct, retighten the nut. If the belt is worn, proceed to step 2.

2. Removing the transmission support braces. To take out a worn belt and install a new one, the transmission must be pulled away slightly from the washer base. Unplug the washer and lay it on the floor (97). Use a socket wrench to unscrew the five nuts and one bolt that hold the braces to the transmission (above). Unbolt and remove the pump (105). Use long-nose pliers to unclip the lower end of the spring stretching between the clutch plate and the transmission (inset).

3. Unscrewing the three transmission mounting bolts. Loosen the two mounting bolts on each side of the transmission about 1/2 inch (7 to 10 turns). Then completely remove the lower bolt, as shown. As you pull out the bolt, catch the spacer that will fall from between the chassis stud and the transmission tab (inset). Slip the old drive belt through the space.

4. Shifting the clutch shaft. Working through the opening in the back of the washer, use a screwdriver to pull up on the spin cam bar (above) while turning the main drive pulley with your hand.

The movement of the spin cam bar will allow the clutch shaft to drop a bit, making space for the drive belt to pass between the shaft and the yoke (step 5). Don’t lose the clutch shaft washers. Snap the rod-like yoke support out of the plastic retainer on the yoke (inset).

5. Removing the drive belt. Reaching through the bottom of the washer, pull the transmission straight toward you until it stops against the mounting bolts. Pass the old drive belt between the clutch shaft and the yoke, as shown, and remove it from the machine. To install a new belt, pass it between the chassis stud and transmission tab, then between the clutch shaft and yoke. Reassemble the washer, carefully reversing the procedures in steps 2 through 5. Reposition the yoke support and clutch shaft, replace the spacer, screw in the three mounting bolts, and replace the transmission support braces. Reinstall the pum p. Loop the drive belt around the four pulleys, ending with the drive pulley. Finally, check the belt tension (step 1).

ADJUSTING AND REPLACING THE DRIVE BELT (Type U washers)

1. Removing the drive belt. Unplug the washer and take off the back panel (97). To adjust the belt, see step 2. To remove it, unscrew the clamps above and below the pump coupling, as shown, and remove the coupling. Using a socket wrench with an extension, loosen the three motor mounting nuts on the mounting plate to release tension on the belt. Reach under the tub and turn the transmission pulley as you pry off the belt, then remove the belt from the clutch pulley. Pull the belt out of the machine.

2. Installing and adjusting the new belt. Fit the belt around the transmission pulley and hold it there while you loop it around the clutch pulley (above). If the belt is tight, rotate the transmission pulley and shift the motor slightly to the right. Reinstall the pump coupling and tighten the clamps. Push the belt with your thumb; if you can deflect it more than 1/2 inch, pull the motor toward you to tighten it, then tighten the motor mounting nuts.

TESTING AND REPLACING THE WIGWAG (Type I washers)

1. Testing the wigwag. Unplug the washer and remove the back panel (97). The wigwag-a pair of solenoids-sits on top of the transmission. The left solenoid controls the spin cam bar and the right one controls the agitator cam bar (inset). To test either solenoid, label and remove its two wires. With a multitester set at RX10, touch a probe to each solenoid terminal, as shown. The multi- tester should show about 200 to 700 ohms. No continuity means the solenoid is faulty; replace the wigwag.

2. Replacing the wigwag. Label and disconnect the wires. Using a socket wrench with an extension, remove the tapered screw from the front of the wigwag, as shown, and lift the wigwag out of the washer. Install the new wigwag in the same position. When reconnecting the terminal wires, make sure they pass through the top bracket of the wigwag.

SERVICING THE TRANSMISSION ASSEMBLY (Type I washers)

1. Removing the transmission assembly. Unplug the washer and remove the agitator (101). Follow the instructions for replacing the drive belt, but remove all three transmission mounting bolts (107, step 3). Label and disconnect the wigwag terminal wires (108). Now pull the transmission assembly straight out toward you, as shown. If you intend to replace the transmission or have it serviced professionally, next remove the external components

2. Removing the external components. Using a socket wrench with an extension, first unscrew the wigwag, as shown, then the cam bar spring. Slide the T bearing up and off the agitator shaft (inset); slip the ball out of its hole at the base of the shaft.

3. Freeing the agitator cam bar and the transmission pulley.

To release the agitator cam bar, insert the end of a screwdriver into the hole in the base of the agitator from which you removed the ball in step 2. Using the screwdriver as a lever, lift the agitator shaft, as shown. With the shaft raised, pull the agitator cam bar free of its retaining fork. To remove the transmission pulley, use a hex wrench to loosen the setscrew on its hub, and lift off the pulley.

4. Removing the spin cam bar. Lift the clutch shaft and slide out the spin cam bar, as shown. Inspect the plunger on each cam bar. If the rivet that holds it in place is worn or broken, replace it with a cotter pin. To reinstall the transmission assembly, carefully follow in reverse the procedures described in steps 1 through 4.

SERVICING THE TRANSMISSION ASSEMBLY (Type I washers, continued)

Refilling the transmission with oil. When the washer lies flat on the floor for a period of time, a small amount of oil will leak out of the transmission. After setting the washer upright, use a syringe to inject non-detergent, SAE-90 oil into the breather hole near the top center of the transmission (above, left). If the washer makes a heavy clunking sound when operating, the transmission may be low on oil. To check the oil level, remove the transmission from the washer (109). Insert a straightened wire hanger into the breather hole. Make sure the dipstick hits the bottom of the transmission and not the connecting rod between the gears. The oil should reach 3/4 inch up the dipstick. If not, use a plastic squeeze bottle to add more oil (above, right) until the proper level is reached.

REPLACING THE TRANSMISSION (Type II washers)

1. Removing the transmission boot. Unplug the washer and take out the basket (102). Use a nut driver to loosen the two metal ring clamps that hold the boot in position (inset). Then grasp the edges of the boot and pull up sharply to break the seal. Lift the boot and rings out of the tub, as shown. Wipe the clamp rings clean. Examine the boot for any damage that may allow water to leak through to the transmission and floor. Replace it if necessary.

2. Removing and replacing the transmission. Use a socket wrench with an extension to unscrew the six bolts anchoring the transmission to the washer's suspension (inset). Noting its position for reinstallation, lift the transmission up and out of the washer (above). A faulty transmission must be serviced professionally. To replace the transmission, drop one bolt into its right rear hole, then lower the transmission carefully onto the suspension. Screw in the bolt loosely and, using it as a pivot, swing the transmission clockwise, leaving a space. Slip your hand under the transmission and fit the drive belt on the transmission pulley. Pivot the transmission back into position and screw in the five remaining bolts securely. Reinstall the transmission boot and basket.

SERVICING THE MOTOR (Type I washers)

1. Testing for a ground. Unplug the washer and lay it on its front (97). If there is an external capacitor on the motor housing (inset) discharge it first by placing one lead of a 20-ohm, wire wound resistor on each capacitor terminal. To test the motor for grounding, set a multitester at RX1 000. Touch one probe to the bare metal of the motor housing, and touch the other to each wire connector in turn. The tester needle should not move. If the motor fails this test, replace it (steps 3 and 4).

2. Testing the motor. Most Type I washers, have a two-speed motor. One-speed and three-speed motors have a different number of wires, but all motors are tested the same way. Label and disconnect all the motor wires. Set a multitester at RX1 and clip one probe to the white wire. Touch the other probe to each colored wire in succession. In each case the multitester should show a low resistance, between 1 and 20 ohms. If you don’t get a correct reading, replace the motor (step 3). If the motor tests OK, next test the motor start switch (step 5).

3. Freeing the motor from its support bracket. If the motor has an external capacitor, make sure it’s discharged (step 1). Label and disconnect all wires to the motor and motor start switch.

Working through the back of the washer, use a socket wrench to remove the four nuts that hold the motor to the motor brackets (above).

Disengage the drive belt from the motor pulley; if the belt is too tight, loosen the two motor-bracket nuts on the washer base and shift the motor.

4. Disconnecting the motor components. Grasp the motor firmly in both hands and pull it out carefully (above). Label and disconnect any wires to the capacitor and the start switch and unscrew them. Unscrew the motor pulley setscrew and remove the pulley (inset). If you intend to replace the motor, save all parts for reinstallation on the new motor. Install a new motor by reversing the procedures in steps 3 and 4. Be sure to reattach the green ground wire to the motor housing.

5. Testing the motor start switch. The motor start switch terminals are coded with colors, numbers or letters that correspond to the motor-wire colors. A typical two-speed motor uses the colors described below; consult the washer's wiring diagram if your model has different designations.

Label and remove the wires from the start switch and unscrew the switch from the motor. To test the switch, place the probes of a multi- tester set at RX1 (or a continuity tester) on the pairs of terminals that correspond to the wire colors listed in the chart below, or indicated in your wiring diagram. Test each pair of terminals with the switch button in, then out. The tester should show resistance or continuity according to the chart; if not, replace the start switch. Screw the new switch to the motor and reconnect the wires.

SERVICING THE MOTOR (Type II washers)

1 Testing the motor. Unplug the washer and remove the back panel (97). Pull apart the plastic harness plug that houses the motor wire connections. Set a multitester to RX1 and touch the probes first to the terminals of the black and orange wires, and then to the terminals of the blue and yellow wires. The tester should indicate continuity. Set the multitester at RX1000 and test the motor for grounding by touching one probe to the bare metal of the motor housing and the other probe to each terminal in turn; there should be no continuity. To remove the motor, unclamp the lower end of the pump coupling (108). Use a socket wrench to unscrew the three nuts securing the motor to the mounting plate. Slip the drive belt from the clutch pulley (108) and lower the motor and clutch to the floor. With a helper, tilt the washer forward and slide the motor out. If the clutch is faulty, call for service. If the motor is faulty, replace it and the start relay (step 2) by reversing the steps here.

2. Testing and replacing the motor start relay. The start relay is mounted on the upper left corner of the washer chassis, behind the back panel. Unscrew the relay and label and disconnect its wires (above). Position the relay with the arrow pointing up.

Set a multitester at RX1 and touch the probes to the terminals marked M and LS; the tester should indicate continuity. Then touch the probes to terminals L and S; the tester should show resistance. Without removing the probes, turn the relay upside down. You should hear the contacts click and the tester needle should sweep upscale, indicating continuity. Replace the motor start relay if it or the motor is faulty; screw the new relay to the chassis and reconnect the wires.

DIRECT-DRIVE CLOTHES WASHER

A unique design makes the recently introduced direct-drive washer very easy to service. Diagnosis and repair of most problems involving switches, valves, agitator, basket and tub are the same as for a Type I washer. However, difficult repairs for hard-to-reach components-motor, pump, transmission and drive belt-are greatly simplified or eliminated.

In a departure from most washers, the direct-drive model has no drive belt between the motor, transmission and pum p. This eliminates replacing a worn or broken belt, one of the most time-consuming repair chores, as well as reducing the number of parts that can break down.

The direct-drive washer never needs to be pulled out from the wall or lowered onto the floor for service. Access to the washer's internal parts is provided by a cabinet that pulls off and lifts away, and a control console that flips back to reveal the control switches, timer and capacitor. For convenient inspection and testing, the pump and motor are mounted under the tub in the front of the machine, or at one side. For replacement of either part, the retaining clips securing the pump and motor can be snapped free, the faulty part lifted out and a new part snapped in place.

Most direct-drive washers are equipped with a self-cleaning filter; others have a manual filter mounted on the agitator. To clean a manual filter, pull up the top of the agitator and clean the filter screen by hand.

This type of washer can also save water and detergent:

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DIRECT-DRIVE WASHER

Water level switch - Senses pressure of water rising in tub; turns water off when set level is reached.

Basket -- Holds clothes rotates within tub.

Agitator-- Works clothes through water during wash and rinse cycles.

Pump -- Recirculates water during wash and rinse cycles; pumps water out during spin cycle. Clipped in front of motor for easy access and removal.

Water temperature switch; Controls water inlet valve.

Timer -- Controls sequence of cycles and turns machine on and off.

Control console -- Flips open for servicing switches and timer.

Water inlet -- Sprays water into basket during fill cycle.

Transmission - Controls agitator and basket motion; driven directly by motor.

Motor -- Powers pump and transmission directly; no drive belt.

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Instead of automatically pumping dirty wash water down the drain, it can be modified to pump the water into a storage tub. There the suspended dirt particles will settle to the bottom; the water is then recycled in the next wash.