Fix-it-Yourself--Major Appliances: CLOTHES DRYERS

A dryer combines air, heat and motion to dry everything from soggy socks to damp dungarees. The motor turns a drive belt that revolves the drum. At the same time the blower, also powered by the motor, forces air past electric heater coils (or the flame from a gas burner) and into the drum. The air draws lint and moisture from the clothes through the lint screen and out the exhaust duct. Electric switches and the timer regulate the drying time and cycles, and thermostats control the tempera ture. Dryers have a long life expectancy- 15 years or more- and fortunately, when things do go wrong, they are as simple as they are sturdy, making most repairs worth tackling yourself.

Most electric dryers in the U.S. and Canada resemble Type I (below); another popular model is Type II (115). A gas dryer substitutes a gas burner for the heater element or coils in either machine. Many common repairs, such as replacing the timer, are similar for all dryers. When repairs are significantly different-- for example, replacing the heater element, coils or gas burner-they are shown separately. Follow the instructions for the type of dryer that most resembles yours.

When a problem occurs, first check your home's main ser vice panel for blown fuses or tripped circuit breakers (132). Remember that an electric dryer runs on 240-volt current and draws power through two separate fuses or breakers. As a result, if only one fuse has blown or breaker has tripped, the drier motor may still run, although the dryer won't heat.

A dryer's greatest enemy is lint. Even if the lint filter is cleaned after every load, lint will still accumulate around the moving parts of a dryer as well as in the exhaust duct and vent, forcing the machine to work harder. At least once a year, turn off the power, remove the front and rear panels (118), and vacuum or brush out lint from around the motor, idler and gas burner, if any. Disconnect the exhaust duct and remove lint from the internal exhaust pipe, the duct and the vent. Make sure the duct has no kinks where lint and moisture can accumulate. The duct should be made of aluminum; plastic ducts soften and sag with heat. It must have no more than two bends of 90 degrees, spaced at least 4 feet apart.

Before working on the dryer, always unplug the power cord from the wall outlet. If the cord is wired directly into your home's electrical system, cut power to the machine at the main service panel. If you have a gas dryer, don't risk rupturing the gas line by moving the dryer or disconnecting the gas line yourself. Call the gas company or a service technician to disconnect and move it for you.

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TYPE I DRYER

Rear drum seal

Insulates joint between drum and bulkhead.

Drive belt Transfers motor-shaft — rotation to drum.

Drum-support roller

Door switch

Shuts off dryer when door is opened; start switch must be used to restart dryer.

Front drum bearing ring

Rides on front drum seal.

Power cord: Standard electric dryer in U.S. has a 240-volt cord with three prongs and three wires. In Canada, and for use in mobile homes or some apartments, the cord has four prongs and four wires. Gas dryer has a three-prong, 120-volt grounded cord.

Centrifugal switch: Gives motor an extra boost of power when starting; once motor reaches top speed, switch activates the heater.

Temperature selector switch: May be rotary or pushbutton.

Start switch: May be rotary or pushbutton; may also be part of a push button selector-switch panel.

Timer: Works like an electric clock to control cycle duration.

Terminal block

Connects power cord to dryer’s wiring.

Control console

Houses switches and timer; wiring diagram tucked inside for reference when testing wiring.

Blower wheel

Circulates air through drum; turned by motor.

Blower housing

Thermostats

Turn heater on and off; protect against overheating. Located on the heater box and blower housing.

Heater box

Encloses heater element.

Lint screen

Clean after every dryer load.

Motor

Shaft turns drive belt at one end, blower at the other.

Front drum seal

Felt ring on dryer front cushions drum opening.

Idler

Spring-action pulley maintains proper tension on drive belt.

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TYPE II DRYER:

Front drum seal

Felt ring on dryer front _. cushions drum opening.

Idler

Spring-action pulley maintains proper tension on drive belt.

Drum slide Supports front of drum; surface allows— free rotation.

Blower wheel

Circulates air through drum; turned by motor.

Temperature selector switch

May be rotary or pushbutton.

Start switch

May be rotary or pushbutton; may also be part of a push button selector-switch panel.

Control console

Houses switches and timer; wiring diagram tucked inside

Thermostat

Turns heater on and off; protects against overheat

Timer

Works like an electric clock to control cycle duration.

Heater coils -- 240-volt current energizes high-resistance wires to heat air in dryer.

Drive belt: Transfers motor-shaft rotation to drum.

Door switch: Shuts off dryer when door is opened; start switch must be used to restart dryer.

Lint screen: Clean after every dryer load.

Exhaust duct: Must have no dips or kinks; no more than two angles of 90 degrees or less at least 4 feet apart. Remove and clean.

Power cord: Standard electric dryer in U.S. has a 240-volt cord with three prongs and three wires; in Canada, and for use in mobile / homes or some apartments, the cord has four prongs and four wires. Gas dryer has a three- prong, 120-volt grounded cord.

Blower Motor

Shaft turns drive belt at one end, blower at the other.

Motor pulley

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TROUBLESHOOTING GUIDE

ACCESS THROUGH THE CONTROL CONSOLE

1 Freeing the control console. After unplugging the dryer, unscrew the control console at each end. On many machines, the screws are located at the bottom front of the console, and may be covered by adhesive trim, as shown. On other machines, the screws are located at the top or sides of the console.

2. Removing the console back panel. Spread a towel on top of the dryer to protect its finish. Roll the console facedown onto the towel; on some dryers, you must first slide the console forward to disengage tabs on the end panels from slots in the dryer to p. If the console has a rear panel, unscrew it to expose the start switch, temperature selector, circuit diagram and timer.

ACCESS THROUGH THE TOP

1 Raising the dryer to p. For Type I dryers, which have a top mounted lint screen, unplug the dryer, pull out the screen, and remove the two screws at the front edge of the screen slot. Then insert a putty knife wrapped in masking tape under the top, as shown, about two inches from each corner, and push in to disengage the hid den clips securing the to p. For Type II dryers, unplug the dryer, open the door and remove the row of screws beneath the front edge of the dryer top (inset).

2. Securing the to p. The top of both models is hinged at the back; raise it and lean it against the wall behind the dryer. If the dryer is pulled out from the wall, attach a chain or cord to the top and cabinet to keep it from falling backward and damaging wiring.

ACCESS THROUGH THE REAR PANEL AND TOE PANEL

Removing the rear panel. Unless you have a gas dryer, unplug the machine, disconnect the exhaust duct and move the dryer out from the wall. (Caution: If you have a gas dryer, don’t move the dryer your self-call the gas company or a service technician to move it for you.) Most dryers have one large rear panel; remove the screws around its edges and set it aside. Some models have two or three small panels; remove each as needed for a particular repair.

Removing the toe panel. Unplug the dryer, remove any retaining screws, and insert a putty knife near the center top of the toe panel.

Push down and in against the hidden clip while pulling the panel at one corner. Lift the panel off the brackets.

ACCESS THROUGH THE FRONT PANEL

Removing the front panel. Unplug the dryer, raise the dryer top (117) and remove the toe panel, if any. (If when you remove the toe panel, you see door-hinge springs, tape the top of the door shut with masking tape to keep it from falling open, and unhook the springs from the brackets at the bottom front of the dryer before removing the front panel.) For a Type I dryer, slip a length of scrap wood under the drum to keep it from falling when you remove the front panel.

Then, for both models, loosen but don’t remove the screws, if any, at the bottom corners of the front panel (above, left). Dryers without front panel screws have hidden brackets inside the machine. Move to the inside of the dryer and, taking care to label their positions, disconnect the wires leading to the door switch. Supporting the front panel with one hand, remove the screws at each inside corner (above, right).

Lift the panel off the lower screws or brackets.

TESTING AND REPLACING SWITCHES

Testing the start switch. After unplugging the dryer, free the control console and tilt it forward (117). Disconnect the wires from the start switch terminals and label their positions with masking tape. To test a two-terminal switch, place one probe of a continuity tester on terminal CO (or R2), and the other on NO (or R1), as shown. The tester should not light. Press the start button; the tester should now light, showing continuity. To test a three-terminal switch, place one probe on terminal NC (or CT1), and the other on CO (or R1); the tester should light. Press the start button; the tester should not light. If the switch fails this test, replace it. Pull off the control knob and unscrew the switch from the console. Remove and reuse the mounting bracket if the switch has one. Screw the new switch in place and reconnect the wires. If your dryer does not use these terminal configurations, consult the wiring diagram.

Testing and replacing the temperature selector switch. The selector switch may be rotary or pushbutton (inset); both are tested the same way. Unplug the dryer and free the control console.

Check the dryer's wiring diagram (138) for the markings used on the terminals regulating the inoperative cycle. Disconnect the wires from these terminals and label them. Turn the knob to the inoperative cycle or press the corresponding button. Touch one probe of the continuity tester to each terminal, as shown. The tester should light; if not, replace the switch. Unscrew the old switch from the control console, install the new switch and transfer the wires.

Testing the timer. Unplug the dryer and free the control console (117). To test the timer motor, disconnect its two black wires. Set a multitester to the RX1000 scale and connect a probe to each motor terminal, as shown. The meter should show 2,000 to 3,000 ohms. If not, replace the motor by removing the two screws holding it to the timer and screwing a new motor in place. Reconnect the wires.

To test the timer itself, check the dryer's wiring diagram (138) for the configuration of the affected cycle and disconnect the wires. Set the timer knob to the cycle. Touch one probe to each terminal; the nee die should swing, indicating continuity. If the timer fails this test, replace it. Pull the control knob off the front (if the timer has a mounting bracket, reuse it). Install a new timer and transfer the wires from the old timer to the new one.

Testing the centrifugal switch. Mounted on the motor, the centrifugal switch is reached in most Type I dryers either by removing the toe panel (118); or by raising the top (117) and removing the front panel (118). In Type II models, the centrifugal switch is reached through the rear panel (118). Disconnect and label the wires, then unscrew the switch from the motor (above). Place the probes of a continuity tester on terminals 1 and 2, then 5 and 6, then 5 and BK (or 3). Test with the switch button in, then out. Replace the switch if it does not show the following results:

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OUT Continuity --Resistance

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Testing and replacing the door switch. Raise the top (117) to reach the switch, which is mounted near one of the upper corners of the dryer front. Disconnect the wires from the terminals. If the switch has two wires, touch a continuity tester probe to each terminal that was connected to a wire (above, left); ignore any extra terminal. With the door closed, the tester should light, showing continuity; with the door open, it should not light.

In a dryer with a drum light, the door switch will have three wires and three terminals. Clip one probe to the common terminal (at one end of the switch or, on a cylindrical switch, the largest of the three) and touch the other probe to each of the other terminals in turn. With the door closed, the tester should light with one terminal and not light with the other; with the door open, the situation should reverse.

To replace a faulty lever-style switch (above, center), remove the screws on either side of the lever. Lift out the switch from inside the dryer. To remove a cylindrical switch (right, top), reach down inside the dryer, squeeze the retainer clips on the back of the switch and pull it out through the front. To remove a hinge-mounted switch, take off the dryer front panel (118) and unscrew the switch from the door hinge.

TESTING AND REPLACING THERMOSTATS

Testing and replacing thermostats or a thermal fuse. On Type I dryers, the thermostats and fuse are located on the blower housing and the heater box (above). Type II dryers have thermostats under the lint screen (right, top), on the heater housing (right, bottom), or on the internal exhaust duct. All are tested the same way. First, unplug the dryer. Disconnect the wires from the thermostat or fuse terminals and label their positions. Touch a continuity tester probe to each terminal, as shown; the tester should light, If either of the thermostats or the fuse fails this test, replace the faulty part. Reconnect the wires and replace the dryer panels.

SERVICING THE DRIVE BELT AND IDLER

1. Disengaging the drive belt. To reach the idler on a Type I dryer, remove the toe panel (118) or raise the top (117) and remove the front panel (118). Prop the dryer down on a piece of scrap wood. Push the idler pulley toward the motor pulley releasing tension on the drive belt, and slip the belt off the motor pulley (above). To access the drive belt in a Type II dryer, remove the rear panel (118). Pull the idler pulley away from the top of the pulley to release tension on the belt and slip it off the motor pulley.

2. Removing the idler. With the belt disengaged, inspect the idler bracket, pulley and spring. Idlers vary in style; many are one piece and are held in place in the dryer floor by belt tension (above, top). Lift the idler out and check the pulley for uneven wear or wobbling. If it’s damaged, install a new idler. Another type of idler has a tension spring (above, bottom). Unhook the spring and replace it if worn or broken. This type of idler may also have a replaceable pulley; go to step 3 to inspect and replace it.

3. Checking and replacing the idler pulley. Inspect the surface of the pulley for uneven wear, and move it back and forth to check for wobbling (above, left). To replace the pulley, use a nut driver to remove the screw at one end of the axle and slide the axle out of the pulley. Place a new pulley and washers in the bracket (above, right), insert the axle and replace the screw. Some idler pulleys have a retainer ring instead of a screw, and the axle is permanently connected to the bracket. Pry off the ring with long-nose pliers to remove and replace the pulley; snap the retainer ring back on the axle. When replacing the idler, engage the spring on the idler bracket before threading the drive belt around it.

4. Removing and replacing the drive belt. Raise the dryer top (117) and remove the front panel (118). Lifting the drum slightly, slide the loose belt free. Align a new belt in :he same position as the old one, its grooved side against the drum. To rethread the belt in a Type I dryer, push a loop of the belt under the idler pulley and catch it on the motor pulley. Check that the rear drum seal rides properly on the bulkhead (123). To rethread a Type II belt, loop it over the idler pulley and under the motor pulley. Turn the drum by hand to make sure the belt is properly positioned.

SERVICING THE DRUM

1. Checking and replacing the front drum seal. Unplug the dryer, lift the dryer top (117), and remove the toe panel, if any, and the front panel (118). Inspect the felt seal surrounding the door opening behind the front panel, and look for objects embedded in the felt. To replace the seal in a Type I dryer (above, left), first peel off or unclip the old seal. Place a new seal with its folded edge toward you and fit the holes in the seal over the clips on the rim of the door opening. Also check the plastic bearing ring within the drum opening; if it’s rough or worn, snap it out and replace it. To replace a Type II seal (above, right), unscrew the metal flange on which the felt is mounted, and screw on a new seal-and-flange assembly.

2. Removing the drum. Disengage and remove the drive belt (121). For a Type I dryer, lift the drum slightly and carefully slide it out through the front of the cabinet (far left). For a Type II dryer, first unscrew the rear access panel (118) to expose the drum shaft. Loosen the grounding strap using a nut driver, then pry the retainer off the shaft with long-nose pliers (near left). Carefully lift the drum out through the front of the cabinet.

3. Replacing the drum shaft bearing (Type II dryers). A flexible, sleeve-like bearing cushions the drum shaft of a Type II dryer. Pull off the bearing, as shown, and inspect it for wear. If it necessary to be replaced, slide a new bearing onto the shaft, making sure the washers are in their proper positions. When reinstalling the drum (step 6), be sure the bearing and washers don’t slip off the drum shaft.

4. Replacing drum support rollers (Type I dryers). A pair of rubber rollers mounted on the bulkhead supports the drum in Type I dryers. With the drum removed, check each roller for wear and replace if damaged. To remove a roller, use long-nose pliers to pry off the tri-ring that secures it to the shaft, and slide the roller off.

(If the left roller has a support bracket, first unscrew it from the shaft.) Lightly lubricate the shaft with machine oil, slide on a new roller, and pop the tri-ring back onto the shaft. Screw the bracket back in place.

5. Replacing drum support rollers (Type I dryers). A pair of rubber rollers mounted on the bulkhead supports the drum in Type I dryers. With the drum removed, check each roller for wear and replace if damaged. To remove a roller, use long-nose pliers to pry off the tri-ring that secures it to the shaft, and slide the roller off.

(If the left roller has a support bracket, first unscrew it from the shaft.) Lightly lubricate the shaft with machine oil, slide on a new roller, and pop the tri-ring back onto the shaft. Screw the bracket back in place.

6 Reinstalling the drum. For a Type I dryer, slide the drum in through the front of the dryer, and rest the rear drum flange on the support rollers. Rethread the drive belt (121). Seat the rear seal against the bulkhead by inserting a putty knife between the seal and the bulkhead, as shown; rotate the drum a full revolution to be sure the seal edge is not pinched. Replace the dryer panels.

On a Type II dryer, seat the front groove of the drum on the slides and, from the back, snap on the drum shaft retainer. Reinstall the grounding strap and the drive belt, and replace the dryer panels.

TESTING AND REPLACING THE HEATER ELEMENT (Type I dryers)

1. Testing the heater element. Unplug the dryer and remove the rear panel (118). Disconnect the wires to the heater terminals and label their positions with masking tape. Set a multitester to the RX1 scale. If the heater has two terminals, touch one probe to each terminal, as shown; the meter should show 5 to 50 ohms. Then touch one probe to the heater box and the other to each terminal in turn; the needle should not move, If the heater has three terminals, touch one probe to the middle terminal and the other probe to the outer terminals in turn; the meter should show 10 to 40 ohms. Then, to test for a ground, touch one probe to the heater box and the other to each terminal in turn; the meter should not move. If the element fails any of these tests, proceed to step 2 to remove and replace it.

2. Removing the heater box. Raise the dryer top (117) and unscrew the bracket holding the heater box to the bulkhead. Unscrew the thermostat from the side of the heater box. Lift the heater box slightly to free it from the lower brackets, and pull it down and out from the rear of the dryer, as shown.

3. Installing a new heater element. Remove the screw holding the element in the heater box and carefully pull out the element. Slide a new element into the box, same side up. Be sure the coils don’t rub against the sides of the box. Insert and tighten the screw. Slide the heater box up into the rear of the dryer, hook the slots onto the lower brackets, and reattach the upper bracket. Screw the thermostat back on the heater box and replace the rear panel.

TESTING AND REPLACING THE HEATER COILS (Type II dryers)

1. Testing the heater coils. Unplug the dryer and raise the dryer up (117). Disconnect the wires from the insulator terminals on the heater housing and label their positions with masking tape. Set a multitester to the RX1 scale. Touch one probe to the left (common) terminal, and the other probe to each of the other terminals r turn. In each case the multitester needle should move, showing continuity. Next, to test for a ground, touch one probe to the heater housing and the other probe to each terminal in turn. The needle should not move. If either coil fails any of these tests, replace both coils.

2. Removing the old heater coils. Take out the drum (122). Check the heater coils for breaks, burns or broken insulators. To remove the coils, use wire cutters to snip their ends near the terminals, and carefully unthread the coils through the insulators. Unscrew the nuts and washers holding the terminals to the heater housing, as shown; discard the old terminals, but keep the ceramic insulators.

3. Stretching a replacement coil. New heater coils must be stretched to the required length before installation. The heater coil replacement kit indicates the length needed for your dryer model. Most often, the outer coil is stretched 63 inches to produce a relaxed length of 40 inches; the inner coil is stretched 56 inches, producing a 35-inch coil. To stretch a coil, cut a piece of string to the correct length, and hold one end of the coil and the string in each hand.

Pull the coil slowly and evenly until the string is taut (or have another person help you, as shown). Don’t stretch the coil in sections; the resulting unevenness causes hot spots. Cut and bend the ends of the outer coil to form 1-inch hooks, and bend the ends of the inner coil to form 1/2-inch hooks.

4. Installing the heater coils and terminals. Slip a nut and a washer on one end of a new terminal, hook the end of the heater coil around the terminal, and sandwich it tightly with another washer and nut. Place a ceramic insulator on the terminal and insert the terminal through a hole in the heater housing: The inner coil goes to the middle hole and the outer coil goes to the right-hand hole.

Place a second insulator on each terminal from outside the housing and secure it with a nut. Gently thread each new coil clockwise through the insulators, as shown. Wrap the two free ends around a single terminal, secure them with washers and nuts, and install the terminal with insulators in the remaining hole (inset).

SERVICING THE GAS BURNER (Gas dryers)

1. Removing the gas burner. Unplug the dryer and remove the toe panel (118) or pry open the small gas burner access panel on the front of the dryer. Shut off both the main gas valve to the dryer and the gas valve leading to the burner. (A gas valve is closed when the handle is perpendicular to the pipe.) Disconnect the multi-wire harness plug and any other wires leading to the gas burner. Using an open-end wrench, unscrew the union nut between the burner and the gas pipe by pushing the wrench away from you, toward the dryer (above). The end of the gas pipe will separate from the burner; lay the pipe aside. Remove the two hex-head screws holding the burner bracket to the dryer cabinet. Carefully lift out the burner (inset).

2. Testing and replacing the igniter. Turn the burner over and carefully use your thumb to spread the mounting clips that grip the igniter (above). The igniter is extremely brittle; disengage it with great care. On some burners the igniter is screwed in place; use a nut driver to release it. Set a multitester on the RX100 scale. Touch a probe to each side of the silver end of the igniter, between the fins. The meter should show 50 to 400 ohms; if not, replace the igniter. Carefully spread the clips and gently insert the new igniter, or screw the igniter in place.

3. Testing and replacing the flame detector. The flame detector is usually screwed to the side of the combustion chamber, behind the gas burner, but some are located on the burner itself. Disconnect the wires to the detector. Touch one probe of a continuity tester to each terminal of the flame detector; the tester should light, showing continuity; if not, replace it. If you can reach the flame detector with a nut driver, unscrew it and install a new one. In most cases, how ever, you must first remove the gas burner and the funnel-shaped combustion chamber to reach the flame detector. If both the igniter and flame detector test OK, take the gas burner assembly to a service center for replacement or repair, or call for service.

4. Reinstalling and testing the gas burner. Screw the burner bracket to the dryer cabinet and reconnect all wires. Reattach the gas pipe to the burner by hand, turning the union nut counter-clockwise to the burner, then tighten with a wrench. To test for a gas leak, prepare a half-and-half solution of dishwashing liquid and water. Turn the gas valve handle to the ON position (parallel to the gas pipe), then turn on the gas supply to the dryer. Brush the soap-and water solution on all joints. If bubbles form, shut off the gas, loosen and retighten the joint, turn on the gas and test again. If bubbles still form, turn off the gas to the dryer and call for service.

SERVICING THE MOTOR AND BLOWER (Type I dryers)

1. Testing the motor. Unplug the dryer. Raise the top (117) and remove the toe panel, if any, and the front panel (118).

Remove the drive belt and idler (121) and take out the drum (122). You now have access to the motor and blower. Disconnect the wires to the motor and centrifugal switch, and label their positions with masking tape for reassembly. To test the motor, set a multitester to the RX1 scale. Connect one probe to the yellow wire leading to the motor, and the other to the blue wire. The meter should indicate 1 to 5 ohms of resistance. Remove the probe from the yellow wire and attach it to the black wire. The meter should again indicate 1 to 5 ohms of resistance. If the motor fails either test, remove it and take it to a service center, or call for service.

2. Releasing the blower wheel from the motor shaft. Using two adjustable wrenches, grip the motor shaft in front of the motor (behind the motor pulley) and the blower-wheel hub at the back of the motor. Hold the blower wheel stationary as you turn the motor shaft clockwise toward the side of the dryer, until the blower wheel is free of the shaft.

3. Inspecting and replacing the blower. Remove the rear panel (118) to reach the lint chute and blower housing. Use a nut driver to remove the four screws holding the lint chute to the blower housing; if necessary, also remove two screws at the upper corner of the bulkhead. Push the lint chute up and over toward the middle of the dryer, exposing the blower. Remove the blower from the housing and check for lint and foreign objects. Look for damage to the threads inside the blower hub and to the blower fins, and install a new blower if necessary. If you plan to remove the motor, go to step 4. If you are replacing only the blower, loosely thread the hub of the new blower onto the motor shaft. From inside the dryer, tighten the shaft using the same double-wrench technique as in step 2. Screw the lint chute in place and replace the rear panel. Reconnect the wires to the motor and the centrifugal switch. Install the drum. Idler and belt, and replace the dryer panels.

4. Releasing the motor clamps. Unscrew the green ground wire from the motor and label it with tape. Strap-like spring clamps secure the round rubber cushions at the front and back of the motor to the motor bracket. To release each clamp, press down on the hooked end with a nut driver and snap the clamp off the motor bracket (above). The motor can now be lifted out for professional servicing or replacement. If you are installing a new motor, remove the motor pulley from the shaft by loosening the set screw with a hex wrench, and rein stall the pulley on the shaft of the new motor.

5. Reinstalling the motor. Position the motor with the threaded end of the shaft to the rear of the dryer (above). Set the rubber cushions in the motor brackets, fitting the tab on the front cushion into the slot in the front bracket. Place the clamps across the rubber cushions and snap them onto the brackets with a nut driver.

Thread the blower onto the rear motor shaft as in step 3. Reconnect the wires to the motor and the centrifugal switch. Install the drum, idler and belt, and replace the dryer panels.

SERVICING THE MOTOR AND BLOWER (Type II dryers)

1. Adjusting the blower. Remove the front panel (118) to expose the blower opening at the lower left corner of the cabinet. Clean any obstructions from the blower and housing. Turn the wheel by hand; if it wobbles, binds or rubs against the housing, reseat it on the shaft. Loosen, but don’t remove, the hex screw that secures the blower clamp (above). Reposition the blower on the shaft and tighten the clam p. If the problem is not solved, remove the motor-and-blower assembly (step 3).

2. Testing the motor. Remove the drum (122). Set a multi- tester to the RX1 scale. Connect one probe to the motor's orange wire, and the other to the blue wire. The meter should indicate 1 to 5 ohms of resistance. Remove the probe from the orange wire and attach it to the black wire. The meter should again indicate 1 to 5 ohms of resistance. If the motor fails either test, remove it (step 3) and take it to a service center, or call for service.

3. Removing the motor-and-blower assembly. Use a nut driver to remove the screws around the blower opening on the front of the dryer cabinet. Disconnect the green ground wire from the motor and unscrew the two nuts holding the motor bracket to the dryer floor (above). Lift the motor-and-blower assembly to expose the blower wheel. If you plan to remove the motor, disconnect all wires to the motor and centrifugal switch, and label their positions with masking tape. Remove the assembly from the dryer. Before taking the motor for repair or replacement, also remove the blower, blower housing and motor bracket.

4. Removing and replacing the blower. Remove the mounting screw on the center clamp of the blower, and pull the clamp and blower off the motor. The clamp has a back half behind the blower; note its position and remove it from the shaft. To replace the blower wheel, place the back half of the clamp on the shaft in the proper position, and hold the front half of the clamp in the same position on the front of the new blower. Place the blower on the shaft, aligning the two halves of the clamp, and screw the clamp together loosely. Reinstall the motor-and-blower assembly, screwing the motor bracket to the dryer floor and the blower housing to the dryer cabinet. Adjust the blower and tighten the clamp as in step 1.

5. Freeing the blower housing from the motor. The blower housing is secured to the motor by a ring clamp that grips a rubber clamp. With the blower removed, use a nut driver to loosen the two screws on the clamp (above), and pull the blower housing off the motor.

6. Removing the motor bracket. Using a screwdriver, pry off the spring clamp that holds the motor bracket to the rubber cushion on the motor, as shown. Remove the motor pulley from the motor shaft by loosening the set screw with a hex wrench. The motor is now ready to be replaced or serviced professionally. To reassemble the dryer, screw the motor pulley to the shaft and clamp on the motor bracket and blower housing. Attach the blower and reinstall the motor in the dryer. Reconnect the wires and replace the dryer panels.