Fix-it-Yourself--Major Appliances: GARBAGE DISPOSERS

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==== SINK MOUNTING ASSEMBLY

Stopper--Keeps foreign objects from falling into disposer and, on batch-feed disposers, , activates the switch by / means of a slot, a cam or a magnet.

Clamp ring Held in place by screws or a snap lock.

Shredder housing gasket, Shredder ring, Impeller.

Flywheel Forces food waste against the cutting surface of shredder ring.

Motor May have an overload protector button, usually located at the bottom of the disposer. Some models have a built-in reset feature instead.

GARBAGE DISPOSER

Sink flange--Set in drain with plumbers putty.

Switch--Batch-feed disposers are activated by the stopper; continuous-feed models by a wall switch.

Clamp ring Sound insulator--Standard on most new disposers; available as add on kit for older models.

Mounting screws or bolts--Some models use a twist-action mounting system.

===

A garbage disposer is built to do a dirty job, efficiently grinding and shredding such tough food waste as melon rinds, chicken bones, fruit pits and vegetable parings. Used properly, the disposer is a rugged appliance that should remain trouble-free for years. The most common disposer problem is a simple jam and even more complex fixes, such as replacing a dull shredder ring, are easily handled by the do-it-yourselfer.

Garbage is fed into the disposer through the sink drain and collects in the hopper (waste may also come through a hose from the dishwasher drain). Batch-feed disposers are activated by inserting and turning the stopper in the sink drain opening. Continuous-feed models are controlled by a wall switch. On both models, the force of the spinning flywheel, which attached to the motor shaft, propels waste against the shredder ring, catching it with the impellers and grinding it into small pieces. Running water flushes the ground-up waste through openings in the flywheel and down the drain.

To avoid problems with the disposer, read its Use and Care manual and follow the manufacturer's instructions for the proper amount and kinds of food to be placed in it. To speed up disposal, cut or break up large bones, corncobs, and fibro material such as vegetable stalks before putting them into the disposer. Drop in garbage loosely; packing it tightly could jam the disposer. Never put in hard-to-grind waste such as sea-fox shells, artichoke leaves or corn husks unless the manufacturer says that the disposer will accept them. These can make the motor overheat, tripping the overload protector. Never put in non-food waste such as metal, cloth, plastic, rubber or ceramics, which can seriously damage the disposer or plumbing.

Always use a strong flow of cold water when running the disposer. This assists shredding and congeals grease so that it breaks up and floats away through the drain. After turning off the disposer, let the water run for a minute or so to flush the drain line.

Disposers require little maintenance. Don’t use chemical drain cleaners to clear clogs; these can damage plastic and rubber parts. To keep the drain clean and odor-free, don’t leave garbage in the disposer for more than a day. When necessary, deodorize the disposer by using it to grind an orange or lemon rind. When the disposer is not in use, leave the drain cover in place to prevent objects such as silverware or bottle caps from accidentally falling in and causing a jam.

Most disposer repairs require only simple household tools, but be sure to take safety precautions when working with the appliance. Never put your hand into the disposer, even when the unit is off; doing so could activate the switch. Don’t attempt any repair, even freeing a simple jam, without first turning off power at the main service panel (132).

TROUBLESHOOTING GUIDE

SYMPTOM

POSSIBLE CAUSE

PROCEDURE

Disposer doesn’t work at all

Disposer buzzes, but doesn’t work

Disposer drains poorly

Disposer won’t stop

Disposer grinds too slowly

Disposer starts, but stops when stopper is released

Disposer leaks

Disposer vibrates or is unusually noisy

No power to disposer

Disposer jammed, tripping overload protector

Wall switch faulty (continuous-feed disposers)

Switch faulty (batch-feed disposers)

Motor faulty

Flywheel jammed

Motor faulty

Water flow insufficient

Drain line clogged

Shredder ring dull or flywheel broken

Wall switch faulty (continuous-feed disposers)

Switch faulty (batch-feed disposers)

Water flow insufficient

Improper waste in disposer

Shredder ring dull or flywheel broken

Switch faulty or cam damaged (batch-feed disposers)

Drain gasket flange loose

Poor seal at sink connection

Poor seal between hopper and lower housing

Silverware or other object in disposer

Mounting system loose

Flywheel damaged

Motor faulty

Check for blown fuse or tripped circuit breaker DO; for plug-in disposers, check for power at outlet by plugging in lamp

Free flywheel, then push overload protector button DO

Test wall switch

Test switch

Call for service

Free flywheel DO.

Call for service

Open cold water faucet fully when operating disposer

Disconnect and dismount the disposer and use a plumber’s auger to clear the drain or call a plumber; don’t use chemical drain openers

Inspect shredder ring and flywheel

Test wall switch

Test switch

Open cold water faucet fully when operating disposer

Disconnect power to disposer; remove any waste not recommended for disposal by manufacturer DO

Inspect shredder ring and flywheel

Test switch; if OK, inspect cam

Tighten screws on drain gasket flange DO

Carefully tighten support ring screws or bolts (overtightening can crack porcelain sink); apply plumber’s putty if necessary DO

Replace shredder housing gasket

Disconnect power to disposer; remove object from disposer with pliers or kitchen tongs; push overload protector button (89) DO

Tighten loose mounting screws or bolts DO

Inspect flywheel

Call for service

DEGREE OF DIFFICULTY:

ESTIMATED TIME:

D Easy Moderate Complex

0 Less than 1 hour 1 to 3 hours

Over 3 hours

 

DISCONNECTING AND DISMOUNTING THE DISPOSER

1. Disconnecting the plumbing. Shut off power to the disposer at the main service panel. Keeping a container handy to catch dripping water, separate the dishwasher drain hose, if any, from the disposer. On some models, the hose is detached using a screwdriver (above, left); on others use hose-clamp pliers. Next unscrew the drain gasket flange and pull out the drainpipe (above, right). On others, loosen the slip nuts and drop the sink trap (inset).

2. Dismounting the disposer. Loosen the mounting screws or bolts at the top of the disposer. Then, keeping a hand under the disposer so that it won’t fall, twist the unit free. Lower the disposer from the support ring, as shown. If your disposer is fastened with a twist-lock action, rotate it, to the left in most cases, until it slips free.

3. Disconnecting the power supply. Unscrew the electrical cover plate on the bottom of the disposer and disconnect the green ground wire. Disconnect the white and black wires by unscrewing the two wire caps by hand, as shown, and pull the power cord free from the disposer.

FREEING A JAMMED DISPOSER

Freeing the flywheel. Disconnect power to the disposer. If the jam was caused by an object such as a piece of silverware, remove it from the disposer and wait 15 minutes to allow the motor to cool. Reconnect the power, push the red overload protector button on the bottom of the machine (far left, top) and try operating the disposer again.

If the disposer is still jammed, disconnect the power and wedge the end of a broom handle against one of the impellers on the fly wheel (near left). Using the handle as a lever, force the wheel back and forth until it moves freely. Wait for the motor to cool. Reconnect the power, press the overload protector but ton and try operating the disposer again. If your model has a manual reversing switch (usually located on the lower housing), turn the disposer off, then turn the reversing switch to help free the jam.

If your disposer came with a large hex wrench, insert one end of the wrench into the hexagonal hole at the bottom of the motor housing (far left, bottom). Turn the wrench back and forth to rotate the motor shaft until the flywheel is free. Wait for the motor to cool. Push the overload protector button and try operating the disposer again.

TESTING AND REPLACING THE SWITCH (Continuous-feed models)

Testing and replacing the wall switch.

Turn off power to the switch at the main ser vice panel. First check the switch toggle; if it’s loose or won’t stay in the ON position, the switch should be replaced. Next test the switch itself. Make sure the power supply is turned off, remove the cover plate and pull the switch from its box in the wall. Disconnect the terminal leads and, with the switch in the ON position, test for continuity, as shown. If the continuity tester’s light does not glow, replace the switch. Reconnect the wires to a new switch, replace the switch in its box in the wall, and screw on the cover plate.

TESTING AND REPLACING THE SWITCH (Batch-teed models)

Testing and replacing the stopper-activated switch. The switch on a batch-feed disposer is located on the disposer itself, near the neck. If your model uses a stopper with either a cam slot or a magnet to start the disposer, it probably has a switch like the one shown at near left. Although you can test the switch while the disposer is still mounted under the sink, it’s easier first to disconnect and dismount the disposer. Turn the power supply, then unscrew and remove the switch assembly cover to reveal the switch. Disconnect the terminal leads and, with the switch in the ON position (stopper in), test for continuity (near left). If the light does not glow, replace the switch. Remove the screws holding the switch in place, install a new switch, reconnect the terminal leads and replace the switch assembly cover.

If the switch tests OK, check to see if the disposer has a cam located on the neck (far left). On older disposers, this cam activates the switch when the stopper is inserted and rotated in the neck of the machine. After some time the cam may wear. Inspect it for damage and, if necessary, unscrew and replace it.

REPLACING THE SHREDDER RING AND FLYWHEEL

1 Removing the switch assembly. Shut off power to the disposer at the main service panel; disconnect and dismount the disposer (88). On batch-feed models, shown here, the switch assembly must first be removed to get at the upper housing. Unscrew the switch assembly cover, disconnect the terminal leads and ground wire and pull them free of the switch assembly box. Next, remove the C-clip using a small screwdriver. Hold the clip firmly; it secures a spring that, as you free it, could propel the tiny clip across the room. Remove the plunger, seal, switch box and other parts of the switch assembly, noting their positions for reassembly.

2 Removing the upper housing. Unscrew or unlock the clamp ring (above) and remove it. Remove the housing nuts or screws, then lift off the upper housing.

3 Removing the hopper. Depending on your model, use a nut driver, as shown, or a screwdriver to free the hopper from the lower housing, exposing the shredder ring and flywheel.

4. Checking the shredder ring.

If the disposer grinds slowly, the shredder ring may be dull. If your model has a metal shredder pad hanging from the shredder, hold onto it as you lift out the gasket and shredder ring. Inspect the shredder ring and replace it if dull or damaged; if you can't tell whether or not the shredder ring is dull, take it to an appliance repair shop and compare its cutting edges to those of a replacement part. When you remove the shredder housing gasket, it will stretch; replace it with a new one when you reassemble the disposer.

5 Replacing the flywheel. If an impeller is broken or the flywheel is bent or damaged, replace the flywheel. On some disposers, the flywheel is threaded directly onto the motor shaft. To free it, first determine whether to drive the wheel clock wise, as shown, or counterclockwise, by tracing the shaft threads with a pointed tool (left, top). Then hold a block of scrap wood against an impeller and strike the block sharply with a ball-peen hammer (far left). Unwind the fly wheel from the shaft.

On other disposers, the flywheel is held on the motor shaft by a nut (left, bottom). Keep the wheel stationary by wedging a screw driver against an impeller, then loosen the nut with a wrench.

Rethread the replacement flywheel onto the motor shaft or secure it to the shaft with the nut. Replace the shredder housing gasket and shredder ring, hopper, upper housing, clamp ring and switch assembly, and reinstall the disposer.



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