Troubleshooting and Repairing--Electric ranges and ovens
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Electric ranges, cooktops, and ovens are available in a variety of styles. Electric ranges and ovens might seem to be complicated, but they are not. The more you know about the electrical and mechanical operation of the product, the easier it will be to solve their problems. An electric range, cooktop, or oven operates on 240 volts for the heating elements, and 120 volts for the accessories (clock, lights, etc.). Most repairs are electrical in nature. This section will provide the basics needed to diagnose and repair these appliances. Figrs __1 and __2 identify where components are located within the range, and these illustrations are used as examples only. The actual construction and features might vary, depending on what brand and model you are servicing. This section does not include any repairs for microwave ovens or ranges with a microwave feature. Example only: Construction and features may vary depending on brand and model.
Example only: Construction and features may vary depending on brand and model.
PRINCIPLES OF OPERATION The surface units are very simple to operate. After placing a pot on the surface element, you then turn the surface unit switch to the desired setting. When the surface unit switch is on, current flows from the wall receptacle, through the wiring and the surface unit switch, and then through the heating element. To properly cook on the surface unit, the pot or pan must lay flat across the heating element ( Figr. --3), making contact with the entire cooking surface. If not, the food won’t cook evenly, and there will be greater heat losses (resulting in wasted electricity). Wrong—Right -- Flat To bake in the oven, place the food on the oven rack, and close the oven door. The oven selector switch is set to bake, and the oven temperature control is set on the desired temperature. Current flows from the wall receptacle, through the wiring and the selector switch, through the thermostat, and on to the bake element. When the selected temperature in the oven is reached, the bake element will go off. When the temperature in the oven decreases, the thermostat then reactivates the bake element. On some models, both the bake and broil elements operate at the same time to first preheat the oven cavity. The broiling operation in the range is accomplished by placing the food on the top oven rack, and partially closing the oven door. When closing the door, there is usually a stop in the hinge that allows the door to remain open a certain amount; this is done so that the broiler element won’t cycle on temperature. The broiler element stays on for continuous operation, until the user turns off the controls. When broiling, current will flow from the wall receptacle, through the wiring and the se lector switch, through the thermostat, and then to the broil element. Self-cleaning ranges and ovens differ (from manufacturer to manufacturer, and from model to model) in how the self-cleaning feature of the heating elements operates. Concave; Flat; Convex Pyrolytic cleaning is the true self-clean system. It uses high heat, during a special 1- to 3-hour cycle, to decompose food soil and grease. During the cycle, which is clock-controlled, the oven door is latched and locked. It Cannot be opened until the oven cools down. All of the oven walls, racks, and the door (except for a small area outside the door gasket) are completely cleaned. After cleaning, you might find a small bit of white ash, which can be easily wiped out. Catalytic, or continuous cleaning, uses a special porous coating on the oven walls that partially absorbs and disperses the soil. This process occurs during normal baking, and keeps the oven presentably clean; but the racks and door parts must be cleaned by hand. Some manufacturers recommend occasionally operating an empty oven at 500 degrees Fahrenheit to remove any build-up of soil. This special oven coating cannot be cleaned with soap, detergent, or commercial oven cleaners with out causing permanent damage. For example, on some models, you simply close and latch the oven door, and then set the controls to clean. When the self-clean cycle is going to be used, the Consumer must read the use and care manual in order to set the controls properly. If the controls are not set according to the manufacturer’s recommendations, the oven won’t be properly cleaned. Next, you set the time clock for the proper time when you want the clean cycle to begin. The clock in a self-clean oven has two functions: First, to control when the oven will operate in the timed-bake cycle; and second, for control during the clean cycle. The bake element will come on, and the temperature will begin to rise. This will take approximately 60 minutes. The reason for the slow temperature rise is to prevent damage to the oven cavity and the door. When the temperature is above 550 degrees Fahrenheit, the oven lock light will come on, indicating that the latch on the oven door cannot be opened until the oven cavity cools below that temperature. When the oven cavity temperature stabilizes (between 840 and 920 degrees Fahrenheit), the cleaning process begins. This cleaning process requires approximately two to three hours (see Table __1 ). Some models have a cooling fan in the circuit to aid in keeping the exterior temperature low. Self-clean ovens have a nonelectric, “catalytic” smoke eliminator in the vent to consume the smoke from the soil load. The catalytic smoke eliminator will begin to operate when the oven cavity temperature is between 300 and 400 degrees Fahrenheit. The types of oven door-lock mechanisms used on self-cleaning models are: 1. Manual door lock With this type of system, the user manually moves the oven door latch assembly to lock the door (see Figr. --4). 2. Electromechanical door lock With this type of system, the user will either press a lock switch button (located on the control panel) in order to move the latch handle; or, alternatively, move the latch handle to lock or unlock the oven door. This action will activate a solenoid coil, allowing the door latch mechanism and linkage to operate ( Figr. --5). 3. Electric door lock With this type of system, the user sets the cleaning controls, and the door lock assembly will operate, through the control of an electric motor, to activate the locking mechanism. This system is similar to the electromechanical door lock; however, instead of a latch solenoid, an electric motor is used. Manual latch system:
Any person who cannot use basic tools, or follow written instructions, should not attempt to install, maintain, or repair any electric range/oven/cooktop. Any improper installation, preventive maintenance, or repairs could create a risk of personal injury or property damage. If you don’t fully understand the installation, preventive maintenance, or repair procedures in this section, or if you doubt your ability to complete the task on your appliance, then please call your service manager. The following precautions should also be followed: 1. Never use a range to heat the home, it simply wasn’t designed for that purpose. 2. Keep the cooking area clean from spills and grease. 3. Don’t use flammable liquids near a cooking appliance. 4. When repairing the range, always use the proper tools. 5. Always reconnect the ground wire to the range after repairs have been made. 6. Never use aluminum foil to line drip bowls; it could cause an electrical shock or become a fire hazard. Before continuing, take a moment to refresh your memory of the safety procedures in Section 2. ELECTRIC RANGES, OVENS, AND COOKTOPS IN GENERAL Much of the troubleshooting information in this section covers electric range/oven/ cooktops in general, rather than specific models, in order to present a broad overview of service techniques. The pictures and illustrations that are used in this section are for demonstration purposes to clarifying the description of how to ser vice these appliances. They in no way reflect on a particular brand’s reliability. Please note that eye-level ranges are also referred to as high-low ranges or tri -level ranges. SAFETY FIRST Electric ranges, ovens, and cooktops in general Solenoid voice Solenoid rivet lock cam Limit switch Switch Mounting screw Solenoid switch Solenoid mounting bracket Linkage arm Door latch plate Oven door latch assembly Latch Solenoid System Location and installation of electric range, oven, and cooktop Locate the range, oven, or cooktop where it will be well lighted. The range must be level for proper baking and cooking results. The range might be installed adjacent to the left and/or right base cabinets, and against a rear vertical wall (for the “anti tip” cleat). A wall oven must be installed on a supporting surface that is strong enough to support the weight of the oven and its contents, while remaining level from side to side, and from front to rear. A cooktop must be installed on a flat surface, supported by the countertop, and it should be level. The proper installation instructions for your model are included. These instructions will assist you with the installation requirements (dimensions, electrical requirements, cutout dimensions, venting, etc.) needed to complete the installation, according to the manufacturers specifications. STEP-BY-STEP TROUBLESHOOTING BY SYMPTOM DIAGNOSIS When servicing an appliance, don’t overlook the simple things that might be causing the problem. Step-by-step troubleshooting, by symptom diagnosis, is based on diagnosing malfunctions, with their possible causes arranged into categories relating to the operation of the range. This section is intended only to serve as a checklist, to aid you in diagnosing a problem. Look at the symptom that best describes the problem that you are experiencing with the range/oven/cooktop, then proceed to correct the problem. Oven won’t heat: 1. Are the oven controls set properly? 2. If the entire range is inoperative; check for voltage, and check the circuit breakers or fuses. 3. Test oven thermostat switch contacts for continuity. 4. Test the heating elements for continuity, and for a short. 5. Check for loose or broken wiring connections. 6. Test the other components in circuits which operate the heating elements. 7. Test the oven selector switch. Oven temperature is not accurate: 1. Test the oven thermostat for accuracy, by using an oven temperature tester. 2. Check to be sure that the oven door is closed for baking. 3. Is the oven vent blocked with aluminum foil? Oven won’t cycle off: 1. Test the oven thermostat switch contacts for continuity. 2. Test the oven selector switch contacts for continuity. 3. Test the time clock switch contacts for continuity. 4. Test the oven cycling relay. Broil element not heating: 1. Are the broil controls set properly? 2. If the entire range is inoperative; check for voltage, and check circuit breakers or fuses. 3. Test the oven thermostat switch contacts for continuity. 4. Test the heating element for continuity, and for a short. 5. Check for loose or broken connections. 6. Test other components in circuits which operate the heating elements. 7. Does the user have the door closed completely? 8. Check oven selector switch. 9. Check to be sure that the oven door is open for broiling. Surface unit won’t operate: 1. Is the right surface unit switch turned on? 2. Check for loose or broken wiring connections. 3. Test the surface element for continuity, and for a short. 4. If the entire range is inoperative; check for voltage, and check circuit breakers or fuses. 5. Test the surface unit switch for continuity. Heat escaping from oven door: 1. Is the oven door aligned properly with the range body? 2. Check oven door gasket. 3. Check the oven door hinge for damage. 4. Check the oven door spring. Is it broken? 5. Is the consumer closing the door completely for baking? Cooking performance: If there are no mechanical problems with the oven’s operation, but it won’t bake the food properly or if the food is partially cooked, etc.; your next step will be to look at the symptom that best describes the problem that you are experiencing with the oven. Then, correct the problem. If necessary, instruct the user how to get better results from the oven. This information is covered in the use and care manual. Satisfactory baking results To have satisfactory baking results, the following conditions must exist: 1. Proper oven door seal. 2. The oven vent not blocked off. 3. The oven thermostat must be calibrated properly. 4. Food preparation must be done correctly. 5. The proper type of cookware is used. 6. Follow the manufacturer’s recommended cooking instructions. Satisfactory broiling results To have satisfactory broiling results, the following conditions must exist: 1. On most models, the oven door must be open partially, to ensure that the broiling element won’t cycle on temperature. 2. Food preparation must be done correctly. 3. The proper type of cookware is used. 4. Follow the manufacturer’s recommended broiling instructions. Satisfactory surface cooking results To have satisfactory surface cooking results, the following conditions must exist: 1. The reflector pans (bowls) must be used under all of the surface units. 2. Use cookware with flat bottoms, that will correctly contact the heating element. 3. Use cookware large enough to entirely cover the surface units. 4. Food preparation must be done correctly. 5. Follow the manufacturer’s recommended cooking instructions. Surface cookware: One of the keys to successful cooking is the use of proper cookware. For efficiency and best results, use pans that: • Have tight-fitting lids • Have lightweight handles that don’t tilt the pans Listed is a brief review of the various types of cookware that is available. The different characteristics of the cookware will aid you when diagnosing cooking complaints. 1. Aluminum is a metal that spreads heat quickly and evenly and responds to temperature changes. This cookware is best for frying, braising and pot roasts. The inside of an aluminum pan might be a natural finish or a nonstick coating. 2. Cast iron is slow to change temperature and holds heat. This makes good cookware for browning, frying, stewing and other cooktop cooking. Cast iron cookware is also available with an enamel finish. 3. Copper is excellent for gourmet cooking, wine sauces and egg cookery and it’s quick to change temperature. 4. Glass cookware is slow to change temperature. This type of cookware works best for a long period, on a low heat cooking with a liquid. 5. Porcelain enamel is long lasting and it’s used for cooking soups and other liquids. 6. Stainless steel is exceptionally strong. It’s used for frying, sauces, soups, vegetables, and egg cooking. Oven cookware: Sometimes a technician must educate the consumer on how to be a successful cook. The use of the correct type of cookware is very important. Listed below are some guidelines for choosing cookware. 1. Always use the correct size pan, as given in the recipe. 2. When baking foods, use flat-bottomed pans to keep the food level. 3. Aluminum oven cookware that is shiny (not cast) produces delicate browning, tender crusts, and reduces the spattering of roasts. This type of cookware is best for cakes, muffins, some quick breads, cookies and roasting. 4. Pottely, ceramic, cast metal, and ovenproof glass cookware gives food a deep, crusty brown surface. When this type of cookware is used, the oven temperature should be reduced by 25 degrees Fahrenheit. 5. The use of dull, or darkened, cookware is suitable for pies and other foods baked in pastry shells. 6. Shallow-sided pans and flat baking sheets are best for cookies and biscuits, where top and side browning is wanted. Food preparation: The preparation of the food is the other key to successful cooking. If you suspect a baking problem, ask the cook to see the cooked food. If needed, ask the cook to prepare some food for baking, and watch how the food is prepared. The following descriptions will assist you in determining the problem. Flat cake The cake comes Out of the oven and you notice that the cake is flat, or that it has no volume to it, the reasons are: 1. There might be too much liquid, or not enough liquid. 2. During preparation, the mix was overbeaten or underbeaten. 3. The pan used to make the cake in was too large. 4. The cook did not adjust the oven racks properly, or placed the pan on the wrong rack. 5. The oven temperature too high, or too low. 6. The mix was stored improperly and/or was exposed to high humidity. 7. The cook might have forgotten to use eggs. Cake has fallen--The cake comes-- Out of the oven and you notice that the cake has fallen, or the center has a dip in it, the reasons are: 1. The cake is underbaked. 2. There might be too much liquid, or not enough liquid. 3. The cook tested the cake too soon. 4. The cake pan was too small. 5. The cook moved the cake before it was completely baked. Sticky crust The cake comes out of the oven, and you notice that the cake has a sticky top crust. The reasons are: 1. The cake was underbaked. 2. The cook stored the cake in a sealed container when the cake was still warm. 3. The humidity in the air is high. 4. Too much liquid in the mix. 5. The cook might have substituted sweet fruit juices, for other liquids. Holes in cake The cake comes out of the oven, and you notice that the cake has holes or tunnels in it. The reasons are: 1. Baking temperature selected was too high. 2. The cook did not adjust the oven racks properly, or placed the pan on the wrong rack. 4. Very large air bubbles became trapped in the batter. 5. The cook might have used the wrong type of pan, which might have caused uneven temperature conductance. Cake shrinkage--The cake comes out of the oven, and you notice that the cake shrank or pulled away from the sides of the pan. The reasons are: 1. The cake was overbaked. 2. The cake pan was too close to the oven wall, or too close to other pans. 3. Extreme overbeating of the mixture. Cake peaked in the center--The cake comes Out of the oven, and you notice that the center of the cake has a peak in it. The reasons are: 1. The oven temperature selected was too high. 2. The pan was too small. 3. The cook might have used the wrong type of pan, which might have caused uneven temperature conductance. 4. There might not have been enough liquid used in the mixture. 5. The cake pan was too close to the oven wall, or too close to other pans. 6. Extreme overbeating of the mixture. Crust not brown The cake comes out of the oven, and you notice that the crust on top of the cake is not brown. The reasons are: 1. Oven door opened too many times during baking. 2. Too much liquid in the mix. 3. Oven temperature too low when baking. 4. The cake pan was too deep. 5. Extreme overbeating of the mixture. Cake too thy The cake comes out of the oven, and you notice that the cake is too dry, and that it falls apart, the reasons are: 1. The cake was overbaked. 2. Not enough liquid in the mix. 3. The cook might have forgotten to use eggs. Cookies brown rapidly-- The cookies come out of the oven, and you notice that the cookies are browned more at the sides and/or the end of the cookie sheet, the reasons are: 1. The cook might have used the wrong size cookie sheet, which might have caused uneven temperature conductance. 2. Cookie sheets with sides will cause rapid browning at the edges. Are the cookies placed at least one inch from the sides? Cookies brown slowly The cookies come out of the oven, and you notice that the cookies browned slowly. The reasons are: 1. The heat might be leaking out of the oven. Check the oven door for heat leakage. 2. The racks are uneven. Check the oven racks. Are they level when cold and when hot? Cookies are dark on the bottom-- The cookies come Out of the oven, and you notice that the cookies are dark on the bottom. The reasons are: 1. The oven racks were not adjusted properly, or the cookie sheet was placed on the wrong rack. 2. More than one cookie sheet was placed into the oven. Cooking meats: The cook complains that the meats are not cooking properly; ask to see some of the food. This section is intended only to serve as a checklist, to aid you in diagnosing a problem. Look at the symptom that best describes the problem that the cook is experiencing with the meats, then correct the problem. The meat burns on the bottom | The possible reasons are: 1. Check the size of the pan used to cook the meat. There should be at least 1 or 2 inches of oven rack visible around the pan when it’s placed on the oven rack so that the heat will heat the oven cavity evenly. 2. Was the oven preheated? 3. Was the door opened and closed frequently? 4. Was the meat elevated off the bottom of the pan? Meats are undercooked | The possible reasons are: 1. Check the oven temperature. Is it calibrated correctly? 2. Check the size of the pan used to cook the meat. There should be at least 1 or 2 inches of oven rack visible around the pan, when it’s placed on the oven rack so that the heat will heat the oven cavity evenly. 3. Was the type of pan used too deep? Was the pan covered? Roasting of meats take too long | The possible reasons are: 1. Check the oven temperature. Is it calibrated correctly? 2. Check for inadequate ventilation. 3. Check for the improper use of aluminum foil. RANGE, OVEN, AND COOKTOP MAINTENANCE The range, oven, or cooktop can be cleaned with warm water, mild detergent, and a soft cloth on all cleanable parts, as recommended in the use and care manual. Never use scouring pads on these surfaces, except where recommended in the use and care manual. Also, never use abrasive cleaners that are not specifically recommended by the manufacturer. Don’t allow grease spillovers to accumulate after cooking on top of the range; it will become a fire hazard. On glass surfaces, you can use a glass cleaner to clean any soil stains. Stubborn soil stains on glass surfaces can be removed with a paste of baking soda and water. Never use abrasive cleaners on glass surfaces. Never clean the heating elements. When you turn on the elements, the soil will burn off. On self-cleaning models, never use oven cleaners to clean the oven cavity. This will cause hazardous fumes when the oven is in the cleaning cycle. After the oven cavity has cooled, use only soap and water to clean small spills on the inside or we cavity. REPAIR PROCEDURES Each repair procedure is a complete inspection and repair process for a single range, oven, or cooktop component. It contains the information you need to test and re place components. Infinite (burner) switch: The typical complaints associated with infinite (burner) switch failure are: 1. The surface element won’t heat at all. 2. The surface element will stay on high in any position. 3. Intermittent switch operation. 1. Verify the complaint Verify the complaint by turning the infinite switch on. Is the surface element heating? 2. Check for external factors You must check for external factors not associated with the appliance. Is the appliance installed properly? Does the appliance have the correct voltage? 3. Disconnect the electricity Before working on the range or cooktop, disconnect the electricity to the appliance. This can be done by pulling the plug from the receptacle. Or disconnect the electricity at the fuse panel or at the circuit breaker panel. Turn off the electricity. 4. Gain access to the infinite switch Depending on which model you are repairing, you can access the component by removing the back panel ( Figr. --6). On models with front-mounted controls ( Figr. --7), the panel is attached with screws on both ends. Remove the screws, and tilt the control panel. Be very careful not to let the wires disengage from the components. Some built-in models have a removable backsplash ( Figr. --8); just lift the backsplash, and rest it on the cooktop. It would be a good idea to place something on the cooktop to protect it from getting damaged. Next, remove the screws from the backsplash, which hold the rear panel, to access the components. If you are repairing a wall oven or an eye-level range, the control panel can be removed ( Figr. --9) by opening the door and removing the screws that secure the panel. The screws that secure the control panel to the unit might be underneath the front of the exhaust hood, or just below the control panel. Some control panels are hinged, just tilt the control panel toward you for servicing. To access the components on other models, both the rear panel and the front control panel (usually glass) will have to be removed. To pull out the glass, remove the screws that secure the trim piece that holds the glass in place.
5. Test the infinite switch To test the infinite switch for continuity between the switch contacts, remove all of the wires from the switch terminals (label them). Set the infinite switch in the “high” position. Using your ohmmeter, place the probes on the L1 and H1 ( Figr. --10A) terminals; there should be continuity. Next, place the probes on the L2 and H2 ( Figr. --10B) terminals, there should be continuity. Now, place the probes on the P and Hi ( Figr. --10G) terminals, there should be continuity. The infinite switch is defective if there is no continuity between L1 and H1, or between L2 and H2. If there is no continuity between P and H1, the indicator light circuit is defective. 6. Remove the infinite switch To remove the infinite switch on most models, you must remove the two screws that secure the switch to the control panel. On some models, the infinite switch is secured with a nut to the control panel. Unscrew the nut to remove this type of infinite switch. 7. Install a new infinite switch To install the new infinite switch, just reverse the disassembly procedure, and reassemble. Be sure that you install the wires onto the correct terminals, according to the wiring diagram. Surface (burner) element:: The typical complaints associated with surface element (burner) failure are: 1. The surface element won’t heat at all. 2. When the surface element is turned on, it trips.
the Circuit breaker, or blows the fuses. 3. On dual surface elements, only part of the element heats up. 1. Verify the complaint Verify the complaint by turning on the infinite switch. Is the surface element heating? 2. Check for external factors You must check for external factors not associated with the appliance. Is the appliance installed properly, and does the appliance have the correct voltage? 3. Disconnect the electricity Before working on the range or cooktop, disconnect the electricity to the appliance. This can be done by pulling the plug from the receptacle. Or disconnect the electricity at the fuse panel or at the circuit breaker panel. Turn off the electricity. 4. Remove the surface element On most models, the surface element can be removed by simply pulling the element out of its receptacle ( Figr. --11). Other models have the surface elements connected to the cooktop, and directly wired to their infinite switch wires ( Figr. --12). To remove this type of element, remove the screw that secures the element to the cooktop. Then, remove the clips that hold the insulators to the element terminals (see inset). Next, unscrew the wires from the terminals; without bending those terminals. 5. Test the surface element Using the ohmmeter, Set the range scale on R x 1. Place the probes on the element terminals ( Figr. --13), the meter reading should show continuity. The actual readings will vary from manufacturer to manufacturer; they vary according to the size of the unit and the wattage used, but the readings should be generally between 19 and 115 ohms. To test for a grounded surface element, place one probe on the sheath, and the other probe on each element terminal, in turn ( Figr. --14). If continuity exists at either terminal, the element is shorted, and it should be replaced. A-B-C 6. Install a new surface element To install the new surface element, just reverse the disassembly procedure, and reassemble. Be sure that you install the wires on their Correct terminals, according to the wiring diagram. _ The typical complaints associated with solid-disc elements are the same as those for the traditional surface elements. 1. Verify the complaint Verify the complaint by turning the infinite switch on. Is the solid-disc element heating? 2. Check for external factors You must check for external factors not associated with the appliance. Is the appliance installed properly? Does the appliance have the correct voltage? Solid-disc elements: 3. Disconnect the electricity Before working on the range or cooktop, disconnect the electricity from the appliance. This can be done by pulling the plug from the receptacle. Or disconnect the electricity at the fuse panel or to the circuit breaker panel. Turn off the electricity. 4. Gain access to the solid-disc element To access the element on this model, you will have to raise the cooktop. To do this, remove the screws from under the front edge of the cooktop ( Figr. --15), then lift the cooktop and prop it up. On some models, the trim might have to be removed first. 5. Test the solid-disc element Remove the wires from the element. Using the ohmmeter, and set the range scale on R x 1. Place the probes on the element terminals; there should be continuity. The actual readings will vary from manufacturer to manufacturer; and with the size of the unit and the wattage used; but the readings should generally be between 19 and 115 ohms. To test for a grounded element, place one probe on the sheath, and attach the other probe to each element terminal. If continuity exists at either terminal, the element is shorted and it should be replaced. 6. Remove the solid-disc element To remove the solid-disc element, remove the wires from the element ( Figr. --16). Remove any brackets that secure the element to the cooktop. The element is removed from the top of the cooktop (see inset). 7. Install a new solid-disc element To install the new solid-disc element, just reverse the disassembly procedure, and reassemble. Be sure that you install the wires on their correct terminals, according to the wiring diagram.
Radiant heating element: The typical complaints associated with the radiant elements are the same as those for surface elements. 1. Verify the complaint -- Verify the complaint by turning the infinite switch on. Is the radiant element heating? 2. Check for external factors -- You must check for external factors not associated with the appliance. Is the appliance installed properly, and does the appliance have the correct voltage? 3. Disconnect the electricity --Before working on the range or cooktop, disconnect the electricity to the appliance. This can be done by pulling the plug from the receptacle. Or disconnect the electricity at the fuse panel or at the circuit breaker panel. Turn off the electricity. 4. Gain access to the radiant heating element -- To access the element, you will have to raise the cooktop ( Figr. --15). On some models, you will have to remove the trim first. Remove the screws from under the front edge of the cooktop; then, lift the cooktop and disconnect the element’s wiring harness plug. Remove the cooktop, and place it upside-down on a table. Don’t forget to place a blanket under the cooktop to prevent the cooktop from being damage. 5. Test the radiant heating element In order to test the element, remove the element mounting bracket from the cooktop. This is held on with two screws on either end of the bracket. Then, carefully turn over the heating element assembly. This will give you access to the limiter and the element ( Figr. --17). Be careful, the element is embedded in an insulated casting, which is used to prevent the cooktop glass from overheating. Remove the wires from the element. On the ohmmeter, set the range scale on R x 1. __ The radiant heating element must be flat against the glass. Place the probes on the element terminals; there should be continuity. The actual readings will vary from manufacturer to manufacturer. They will vary according to the size of the unit and the wattage used, but the readings should generally be between 19 ohms and 115 ohms. If the element fails the test, replace it along with the limiter. 6. Remove the radiant heating element To remove the element, remove the screws that secure the element to the bracket. Lift the element out. The new element comes as a complete assembly. 7. Install a new radiant heating element To install the new radiant heating element, just reverse the disassembly procedure, and reassemble. The element must be flat against the glass and located under the heater panel ( Figr. --17). Be sure that you install the wires on their correct terminals, according to the wiring diagram. Bake element: The typical complaints associated with bake element failure are: 1. The bake element won’t heat at all. 2. When the bake element is turned on, it trips the circuit breaker, or it blows the fuses. 1. Verify the complaint Verify the complaint by turning the selector switch to “bake” and setting the thermostat. Is the bake element heating? On some models, the clock must be set to “manual.” Check the use and care manual for the model you are servicing. 2. Check for external factors You must check for external factors not associated with the appliance. Is the appliance installed properly? Does the appliance have the correct voltage? 3. Disconnect the electricity Before working on the range, disconnect the electricity to the range. This can be done by pulling the plug from the receptacle. Or disconnect the electricity at the fuse panel or at the circuit breaker panel. Turn off the electricity. Glass cooktop; 240-volt element 4. Gain access to the bake element To access the bake element, open the oven door and remove the oven racks. Begin by removing the two screws that secure the element to the oven cavity ( Figr. --18). 5. Remove and test the bake element Slide the element forward and remove the wires from the bake element terminals (label them) either by removing the screws from the terminals, or by pulling the wires off of the bake element terminals ( Figr. --19). Using the ohmmeter, set the range scale on R x 1. Place the probes on the element terminals ( Figr. --20); there should be continuity. The actual readings will vary from manufacturer to manufacturer, according to the size of the unit and the wattage used; but the readings should generally be between 19 and 115 ohms. To test for a grounded bake element, place one probe on the sheath and the other probe on an element terminal ( Figr. --21). If continuity exists, the element is shorted and it should be replaced. Test both terminals. __19 Removing the screws and wires from the element before testing.
__21 Testing the element for ground. 6. Install a new bake element To install the new bake element, just reverse the disassembly procedure, and reassemble. Be sure that you install the wires on their correct terminals, according to the wiring diagram. Broil element: The typical complaints associated with broil element failure are: 1. The broil element won’t heat at all. 2. When the broil element is turned on, it trips the circuit breaker or it blows the fuses. 3. On dual broil elements, only half of the element heats. 1. Verify the complaint Verify the complaint by turning the selector switch to “broil,” and/or by setting the thermostat to “broil.” Is the broil element heating? On some models, the clock must be set to “manual.” Check the use and care manual for the model you are servicing. 2. Check for external factors You must check for external factors not associated with the appliance. Is the appliance installed properly? Does the appliance have the correct voltage? 3. Disconnect the electricity Before working on the range, disconnect the electricity. This can be done by pulling the plug from the receptacle. Or disconnect the electricity at the fuse panel or at the circuit breaker panel. Turn off the electricity. 4. Gain access to the broil element To access the broil element, open the oven door and remove the oven racks. The broil element is located at the top of the oven cavity. Begin by removing the two screws that secure the element to the oven cavity. Then, remove the holding brackets from the element, and slide the element forward. 5. Remove and test the broil element Remove the wires from the broil element terminals, either by removing the screws from the terminals, or by pulling the wires off the broil element terminals (label them). Using the ohmmeter, set the range scale on R x 1. Place the probes on the element terminals ( Figr. --22); there should be continuity. The actual readings will vary from manufacturer to manufacturer, and according to the size of the unit and the wattage used. The readings should generally be between 19 and 115 ohms. To test for a grounded broil element, place one probe on the sheath and the other probe on an element terminal ( Figr. --21). If continuity exists, the element is shorted and it should be replaced. Test both terminals. To test a dual broil element, remove the wires from their terminals. Using the ohmmeter, Set the range scale on R x 1. Place the probes on terminals A and C in Figr. --23; there should be continuity. Then, place the probes on terminals A and B ( Figr. --24); there should be continuity. Finally, place the probes on terminals B and C; there should be continuity. To test for a grounded element, place one probe on the sheath. With the other probe, touch terminal A, then B, then C ( Figr. --25). If continuity exists, the element is shorted and it should be replaced. 6. Install a new broil element To install the new broil element, just reverse the disassembly procedure, and reassemble. Be sure that you install the wires on their correct terminals, according to the wiring diagram.
__22 Testing the broil element for resistance.
__24 Testing a dual broil element for resistance between the A and B terminals. __25 Testing the dual broil element for ground. Oven selector switch: The typical complaints associated with oven selector switch failure are: 1. Bake element won’t heat. 2. Broil element won’t heat. 3. Self-clean won’t work. 4. Time bake won’t work. 1. Verify the complaint Verify the complaint by turning the oven selector switch on to the desired setting. Set the thermostat to the desired temperature setting. Does that part of the range/oven work? Test all of the cycles on the selector switch. 2. Check for external factors You must check for external factors not associated with the appliance. Is the appliance installed properly? Does the appliance have the correct voltage? 3. Disconnect the electricity Before working on the range or oven, disconnect the electricity to the appliance. This can be done by pulling the plug from the receptacle. Or disconnect the electricity at the fuse panel or at the circuit breaker panel. Turn off the electricity. 4. Gain access to the oven selector switch Depending on which model you are repairing, you can access the component by removing the back panel ( Figr. --6) on a freestanding range. On models with front-mounted controls, the panel is attached with screws on both ends. Remove the screws, and tilt the control panel. Be very careful not to let the wires come off from their components. Some built-in models have a removable backsplash ( Figr. --8). Lift the backsplash and rest it on the cooktop. It would be a good idea to place something on the cooktop first, to protect it from getting damaged. Next, remove the screws from the backsplash that hold the rear panel, to gain access to the components. If you are repairing a wall oven or an eye-level range, the control panel can be removed ( Figr. --9) by opening the door and removing the screws that secure the panel. The screws that secure the control panel to the unit might be underneath the front of the exhaust hood or just below the control panel. Some control panels are hinged; just tilt the control panel towards you for servicing. On still other models, both the rear panel and the front control panel (usually glass) will have to be removed, to gain access to the components. To remove the glass, there are screws that secure the trim piece that holds the glass in place. Remove the screws and the trim ring. On some models, the trim might have to be removed first. 5. Test the oven selector switch To test the oven selector switch, for continuity between certain switch contacts, remove only those wires that are being tested (label them) ( Figr. --26). To test each switch contact, refer to the wiring diagram for the proper switch contact terminals. Only remove one pair of wires at a time to test for continuity, as the oven selector switch is checked in each position. 6. Remove the oven selector switch To remove the oven selector switch on most models, you must remove the two screws that secure the switch to the control panel. On some models, the oven selector switch is secured to the control panel with a nut. Unscrew this nut to remove the oven selector switch ( Figr. --27). 7. Install a new oven selector switch To install the new oven selector switch, just reverse the disassembly procedure, and reassemble. Be sure that you install the wires on the correct terminals, according to the wiring diagram. Oven thermostat: The typical complaints associated with oven thermostat failure are: 1. Bake element won’t heat. 2. Broil element won’t heat. 3. Timed-bake won’t work. 4. Oven temperature not accurate. 1. Verify the complaint Verify the complaint by turning on the oven selector switch to the desired setting and by setting the oven thermostat to the temperature selected. Does that function of the range/oven work? On some models, the clock must be set to “manual.” Check the use and care manual for the model you are servicing. 2. Check for external factors You must check for external factors not associated with the appliance. Is the appliance installed properly? Does the appliance have the correct voltage? 3. Disconnect the electricity Before working on the range or oven, disconnect the electricity to the appliance. This can be done by pulling the plug from the receptacle. Or disconnect the electricity at the fuse panel or at the circuit breaker panel. Turn off the electricity. 4. Gain access to the oven thermostat You can gain access to the component by removing the back panel ( Figr. --6) on a freestanding range. On models with front-mounted controls ( Figr. --8), the panel is attached with screws on both ends. Remove the screws, and tilt the control panel. Be very careful not to let the wires come off of their components. Some built- in models have a removable backsplash ( Figr. --8); lift the backsplash and rest it on the cooktop. It would be a good idea to place something on the cooktop first, to protect it from getting damaged. Next, remove the screws from the backsplash, which holds the rear panel, to access the components. If you are repairing a wall oven or an eye-level range, the control panel can be removed ( Figr. --9) by opening the door and removing the screws that secure the panel. The screws that secure the control panel to the unit might be underneath the front of the exhaust hood or just below the control panel. Some control panels are hinged, just tilt the control panel towards you for servicing. On still other models, both the rear panel and the front control panel (usually glass) will have to be removed, to gain access to the components. To remove the glass, there are screws that secure the trim that holds the glass in place. Remove the screws and the trim piece. On some models, the trim might have to be removed first. 5. Test the oven thermostat switch contacts To test the oven thermostat switch for continuity between certain switch contacts, remove only those wires that are being tested from their terminals ( Figr. --28). To test each switch contact, refer to the wiring diagram for the proper switch contact terminals. Only remove one pair of wires at a time (label them) to test for continuity. 6. Calibrate the oven thermostat Before making any adjustments to the thermostat, test the oven temperature. With an oven temperature tester, place the thermocouple tip in the center of the oven cavity. Be sure that the thermocouple tip does not touch any metal. Close the oven door; set the oven to bake; and adjust the thermostat setting to the 350-degree mark. Let the oven cycle for 20 to 30 minutes. Then, record the minimum and maximum temperatures of three cycles. Next, add these temperatures, and divide by 6. This will give you the average temperature of the oven. 370 + 335 + 350 + 340 + 360 + 335 / 6 = 348.3 degrees F. The average temperature calculated should be within ±25 degrees of the temperature setting selected (rotary dial type). If not, try calibrating the thermostat. To calibrate the thermostat, pull the oven thermostat knob off. Turn it over ( Figr. --29). On the back of the knob is the calibration ring. Loosen the two screws, and move the pointer in the direction needed. Each line that the pointer is moved indicates 10 degrees of change in the calibration. Tighten the screws and place the knob back on the thermostat stem. Retest the oven temperature. On models that don’t have the calibration ring on the back of the dial, replace the thermostat if the temperature is more than 25 degrees out of calibration. 7. Remove the oven thermostat To remove the oven thermostat on most models, you must disconnect the thermostat capillary tube from its supports ( Figr. --30) and push it through the back wall of the oven cavity. Be careful. Don’t break the capillary tube wire, because the contents inside are flammable. Next, remove the two screws that secure the thermostat to the control panel. Remove the thermostat ( Figr. --31). Leave the wires on the thermostat for now. 8. Install a new oven thermostat To install the new oven thermostat, just reverse the disassembly procedure, and reassemble. Transfer the wires, one at a time, from the old thermostat to the new one. Be sure that you install the wires on their correct terminals, according to the wiring diagram. Reassemble the control panel in the reverse order of disassembly and test.
Oven cycling relay: The typical complaints associated with oven cycling relay failure are: 1. Bake element won’t heat. 2. Broil element won’t heat. 3. Bake element stays on all the time. 4. Oven temperature not accurate. 1. Verify the complaint Verify the complaint by turning the oven selector switch to the desired setting, and by setting the oven thermostat to the temperature selected. Does that function of the oven work? Test all of the cycles.
2. Check for external factors You must check for external factors not associated with the appliance. Is the appliance installed properly? Does the appliance have the correct voltage? 3. Disconnect the electricity Before working on the range or oven, disconnect the electricity to the appliance. This can be done by pulling the plug from the receptacle. Or disconnect the electricity at the fuse panel or at the circuit breaker panel. Turn off the electricity. 4. Gain access to the oven cycling relay To access the oven cycling relay, remove the back panel ( Figr. --6). On some models, this relay is located under the oven cavity, where the utility drawer is usually found. 5. Test the oven cycling relay To test the oven cycling relay, remove all of the wires from the relay (label them). Using the ohmmeter, set the range scale on R x 1. Place the probes on the L and Hi terminals; there should not be continuity. Next, place the probes on the L and H2 terminals; there should not be continuity. Next, place the probes on the Hi and H2 terminals. There should not be continuity. Now, place the probes on the S and R terminals. There should be continuity. If your meter indicates no reading at all between the terminals R and S, this indicates that the heater wire is defective inside the relay, and that the relay should be replaced. 6. Remove the oven cycling relay To remove the oven cycling relay, remove the two screws that secure the relay to the cabinet. 7. Install a new oven cycling relay To install the new oven cycling relay, just reverse the order of step 6. Transfer the wires from the old relay to the new relay. Be sure that you install the wires on their correct terminals, according to the wiring diagram. Reassemble the remainder of the range/oven in the reverse order of its disassembly and test. Range/oven time clock: The typical complaints associated with range/oven time clock failure are: 1. Timed- bake cycle won’t operate. 2. Unable to use the self clean cycle. 3. Clock loses time. 4. Clock is not functioning. 5. The minute reminder is not functioning. 1. Verify the complaint Verify the complaint by turning the clock controls to the correct time. Does the clock time advance? Some models have the minute reminder located on the same clock, Set this timer to test it. Does it advance? 2. Check for external factors You must check for external factors not associated with the appliance. Is the fuse blown? Does the appliance have the correct voltage? 3. Disconnect the electricity Before working on the range or oven, disconnect the electricity to the appliance. This can be done by pulling the plug from the receptacle. Or disconnect the electricity at the fuse panel or at the circuit breaker panel. Turn off the electricity. 4. Gain access to the range/oven clock You can access the clock by removing the back panel ( Figr. --6) on a freestanding range. On models with front- mounted controls ( Figr. --7), the panel is attached with screws on both ends. Remove the screws, and tilt the control panel. Be very careful not to let the wires come off their components. Some built-in models have a removable backsplash ( Figr. --8); just lift the backsplash and rest it on the cooktop. It would be a good idea to place something on the cooktop first, to protect it from getting damaged. Next, remove the screws from the backsplash, that hold the rear panel, to gain access to the clock. If you are repairing a wall oven, or an eye-level range, the control panel can be removed ( Figr. --9) by opening the door and removing the screws that secure the panel. The screws that secure the control panel to the unit might be underneath the front of the exhaust hood or just below the control panel. Some control panels are hinged; just tilt the control panel towards you for servicing. On still other models, to gain access to the clock, both the rear panel and the front control panel (usually glass) will have to be removed. There are screws that secure the trim piece that holds the glass in place. Remove the screws. Figr. --33 illustrates the different types of clock faces available on ranges/ovens. COOKING HOURS--START TIME--MINUTE TIMER 5. Test the range/oven clock On some models, if the clock does not run, check for a fuse in the circuit. Locate the clock motor wire leads, and isolate them from the Circuit (label them). Using the ohmmeter, set the range scale on R x 1. Place the probes on the clock motor leads; there should be continuity. If not, replace the clock. On some models, the clock is used to control the timed-bake and the self-clean cycles (Figrs. __33B, C, and D). To check the switch mechanism of the clock, remove the wires from the switch terminals (label them). Using the ohmmeter, set the range scale on R x 1. Place the probes on the terminals. Look at the wiring diagram for the correct terminals to test. Some models have one switch, but other models have two sets of switches. Test for the continuity of the switch contacts when you push in and turn the start and stop knobs on the clock, and when the knobs pop out. 6. Remove the range/oven time clock First, remove the clock knobs from the clock stems. To remove the range/oven time clock in this model ( Figr. -- 34), use a screwdriver and depress the clips that hold the clock to the control panel. On other models, the clock is secured to the control panel by screws or nuts. Pull the clock toward the front of the appliance. 7. Install a new range/oven clock Transfer the wires from the old clock to the new clock. Be sure that you install the wires on their correct terminals, according to the wiring diagram. To install the new range/oven clock, just reverse the disassembly procedure, and reassemble. DIAGNOSTIC CHARTS AND WIRING DIAGRAMS The following diagnostic charts will help you to pinpoint the likely causes of the various problems. Surface element won’t heat.
Is any part of the range/oven working? Check for any loose connections or broken wires. Inoperative infinite switch. Test the infinite switch. Replace receptacle. Check for resistance. Oven won’t heat. Check voltage. Test oven thermostat No Replace Check circuit for continuity. | thermostat, breakers/fuses. Yes No Test oven element for continuity, element. No Replace Reset/replace. Yes Check wiring circuit No Repair or for broken wires replace loose or loose Connections, or broken wire. Test oven No Replace oven selector switch, selector switch. The wiring diagrams in this section are examples only. You must refer to the wiring diagram on the range, oven, or cooktop that you are servicing. Figrs __40 and __41, are for an identical appliance. Figr. --40 depicts an actual wiring schematic. Figr. --41 depicts a cross section of a ladder wiring diagram. This type of diagram is easier to read and understand. Table __1, illustrates a self-clean cycle chart, indicating a light soil cycle. On some models, the cleaning cycle will take two hours to complete. The heavy soil cycle will take two to three hours to complete. The average stabilized temperature in a self-cleaning cycle should be between 840 and 920 degrees Fahrenheit. The door can only be opened when the oven temperature has dropped below 520 degrees Fahrenheit. Broil element won’t heat. Are the controls set properly--No Reset the controls. Is the oven door in correct position—No: Correct door. Is any part of the oven/range working? No Check voltage. Test oven thermostat for continuity --element. No Replace Check circuit for continuity, thermostat, breakers/fuses. Test broil element No Replace Reset/replace. Self cleaning not working. |Incomplete cleaning Oven does not heat up for after self cleaning cleaning cycle, cycle is completed Are the oven controls | Are the oven controls set properly? |set properly? Is the voltage correct | Is the clean clock to the range/oven? |time set properly? Is the oven relay | Is the voltage correct working properly? | to the range/oven? Is the thermostat | Are the elements working properly? | working properly? Is the oven door| Is there excessive latch assembly | soil in the oven? working properly? Is the oven selector switch working properly?
Selector switch operation Position Connection Off No connection Bake Broil L-1, L-2 = 240V L-1,N= 120V L-2, N = 120 V Example only: refer to the diagram on the unit when servicing L-1, L-2 = 240 V N, L-1 = 120 V N, L-2 = 120 V N W R L Door Sw. |Oven light | element Surface TABLE _- SELF-CLEAN CYCLE CHART Self-clean oven—Light soil cycle Prev: Automatic dryers Next: Refrigerators and freezers Home top of page All related articles |
_11 To remove a plug-in surface element, just lift and slide the element
out of the receptacle. 
