Chemicals Needed for Home Pest Control and Management

Professional exterminators are sometimes looked on with awe. One look in the chemical storage box and their arsenal of bottles filled with strange, evil-smelling liquids seems only to increase that impression.

Professional killers, handling deadly substances? Ask him what he’s using.

“Uh, well, it’s an organo-phosphate.”

“An organo-whatsphate?” you ask.

“Organo-phosphate. It’s based on phosphoric acid.”

Great. That really explains a lot. It sounds vicious, like something out of a Vincent Price movie.

Actually, there is nothing mysterious, vicious, or evil about most insecticides. The nicotine in the cigarette you smoke is hundreds of times more dangerous than most insecticides.

Of course, all insecticides have the potential of danger. Sickness, even death, can occur if they are not handled properly. Respect them! But, with a little common sense, there is no need to fear them.

They are designed to kill insects weighing a fraction of an ounce. As long as you follow the directions printed on the label, they will do this and no more.

The first step towards safety is simple, but one that many people refuse to take. Read the label! It’s easy to do, and will take very little time. The label tells you exactly what the chemical is, how to use it, mix it, and store it, where to use it, where not to use it, what it will kill, and even how to dispose of the container. Everything you need is right there. Government regulation requires proper labeling, for your protection and the protection of the environment.

The few minutes you invest by reading it will make the job more enjoyable, more effective, and safe. There are almost never cases of accidental poisoning when the label directions are followed.

People who manufacture chemicals have spent thousands, sometimes millions, of dollars on research. They know how to use their product to obtain the best results. All that time and money are put right there for you on the label. Make use of it.

Many people disregard the most basic rules of safety. Chemicals are stored in the open where children can easily get their curious hands on them. I’ve seen some stored under the kitchen sink, or even in the same cupboard where food is kept.

Chemicals should be stored in a well-ventilated, locked area. Even then, they should be placed high, and out of reach. I knew a lady who kept a container of chlordane in a locked room, but one day forgot to lock the door. Her three-year-old, while exploring, came across the poison (which was on the floor) and proceeded to give himself a bath.

Keep poisons out of reach! A little stretching is good exercise for you. It’s much better than the exercise you may get when your child or pet has to be rushed to the hospital. Even if you don’t have children or pets, your neighbor might. Remember, you are responsible for what happens on your property.

Another consideration is that light, moisture, and heat all affect most chemicals. Many come packaged in light-proof or light-resistant containers. That takes care of part of the problem. The rest is up to you. Store the chemicals properly, as stated on the label. Also use your own common sense.

A container can only keep out moisture and reduce evaporation if the lid is kept on tight. Cardboard or metal containers require special care because moisture can affect either, and thus affect the chemical inside. A cardboard box might collapse. A metal container might rust and corrode.

Glass can also be dangerous because it can break. You could end up with dangerously-sharp glass shards, possibly coated with deadly poison.

The dilute spray you apply around the home is relatively safe (which doesn’t mean you should handle it carelessly). But to make a diluted spray, you will probably be using concentrated poison. A chemical that is diluted 1 ounce per gallon is 128 times more potent in its concentrated form.

You can buy premixed chemicals and avoid the problems of mixing your own, but this means you’ll be paying a premium price for mostly water. For example, a chemical might call for a dilution rate of 2 ounces per gallon of water and cost $5 per quart of concentrate, resulting in 16 gallons of finished spray. Buying it pre mixed might cost $5 per gallon, or 16 times as much as the concentrate.

Handle concentrates with care. Wearing chemical-resistant rubber gloves is a good idea. Should you get the concentrate, or any chemical, on your skin, wash it off with soap and water immediately. Many pesticides can be absorbed through the skin.

To get rid of empty containers, follow the directions on the container. If you are in doubt, contact the nearest branch of the Environmental Protection Agency (E.P.A.) or Department of Agriculture. Proper disposal not only decreases the chance of a child accidentally poisoning himself, but helps to protect the environment. And, you’ll be obeying the law.

Children have a fondness for using things they find in the trash. An empty bottle or can might seem to be a perfect “canteen.” More than a few children have been poisoned this way.

In all cases, reusing the container is unwise. No matter how well you clean it out, there could be a trace of poison left. As stupid as it sounds, people have been known to store food and water in empty pesticide containers. Don’t!

By the same token, don’t use bottles to store chemicals which might be mistaken as food containers. Pop bottles are a favorite. The practice is stupid, and illegal. Even if you mark the bottle, remember that a great number of people don’t bother to read signs, and many children can’t.

There is no such thing as being too careful. Just when you think you’ve taken every precaution, take the time to figure a way to go one step further. Children and pets are ingenious snoops.

For measuring, get yourself an unbreakable plastic cup marked in ounces. One marked in partial ounces is even better. Don’t use the kitchen measuring cup. (You’d be surprised how many people do.) Finally, after each use of the measuring device, wash it thoroughly, and lock it up with the rest of your equipment.

Washing out the cup is important for several reasons. The most obvious is for safety. Also, the next time you want to use it, it will be clean. If you happen to be using a different chemical, the two concentrates won’t end up in the same tank.

Certain insecticides, when mixed together, cause a chemical reaction. The result could be a useless spray, or a spray that is potentially deadly. An unclean measuring cup can cause nothing but trouble.

Never mix insecticides together. Unless you’re a qualified chemist, you can’t know what the end product will be. You’re much better off with the bugs. Mixing is also illegal. Even unintentional mixing can bring a $5,000 fine. The fine for intentional mixing can be as much as $10,000 and up to 30 days in prison.

The laws for pesticide misuse are quite strict, and with good reason. Enforcement of these laws is becoming more strict every day. Even if you are one of those who have no respect for the law, think of what you might be doing to the environment, or to your own child.

The various pesticides can be bought at a number of places. Most nurseries carry a variety of insecticides. “Do-it-yourself” stores often carry them, as do many drug and department stores.

Pesticides come in various formulations. Which one you want depends on what pests you have, and where they are.

Liquid concentrate is the most common form of pesticide. A few are designed to be mixed with oil. Although these have a better initial kill, they are much more difficult to handle, are more expensive, and have the unfortunate habit of staining. It’s usually best to avoid them.

Water emulsifiable concentrates are better. Water is readily available, is easy to handle, and doesn’t stain nearly as easily as oil.

The concentrate doesn’t actually dissolve in the water, but breaks up (emulsifies) into millions of tiny droplets. Light refracts off these droplets, giving the finished spray a milky appearance. The water serves as a carrier. Once it evaporates only the chemical remains.

Wettable powders are just what the name implies. The insecticide is in the form of a powder, and as with concentrates, water is the carrier. Powders have the advantage of not “weathering” as quickly as the emulsified chemicals. But, they are difficult to work with and often clog the sprayer. Chances are, you’ll never come across a pest problem where some other formulation won’t work as well, or better.

Granules are usually made of a special clay, impregnated with the insecticide. As moisture dissolves the clay base, the chemical is released. In wet areas, they are more effective than liquids or dusts. In dry spots, they are almost useless. -

Few things work better on ants than granules. Because of the ant’s social nature, the ant will carry the granule right down into the nest. Once there, the relatively higher humidity activates the poison.

Granules are easily broadcast because of their semi-pellet form. Wind won’t blow them away as it might dust. One caution: Never use bare hands to spread them. The moisture of your skin will activate the poison. A Whirlybird is an inexpensive device made specifically for, spreading granules (see Section 1). If you plan to use them only on ants’ nests, you can get by just sprinkling the granules out of the container. Don’t overuse them, however. It doesn’t take much.

Dusts are fine particles of either clay or talc that have been “soaked” in insecticide. They are best used in dry areas, and in spots where no other formulation will work. For example, the insulation in an attic will only absorb liquids, and granules would be useless because of the lack of moisture. Another spot to use dusts is in wall voids, and other closed-in places. A good duster that disperses a fine application is invaluable here. The tiniest air current will carry the dust further in.

Even in dead air spaces, the very process of pumping the dust will provide sufficient air current to move the dust around.

Again, don’t over apply them. A good rule of thumb is that if you can see the dust, it’s too heavy. There are rare exceptions, such as when you place a bead of dust along the crack outside a door, or when you put a ring of dust around an ant hill. Even then, a thin bead works as well as a heavy one. Better. And it is safer.

Dusts use air as a carrier. Basically, wherever air can go, dust can go. It sticks to walls, beams, and so forth. Like wettable powders, their life span is usually longer than liquids. But if there is excessive moisture present, dusts will only cake up, and become useless.

Plants absorb liquids quite readily. Dusts, then, are safer for treating plants. On edible plants, this means less chance of poisoning those who eat it. (Be sure to wash it off, of course.) On almost all plants it means less chance of burning.

If the ground isn’t too wet, dusts can be used as tracking poisons. A circle placed around an ant hill will assure that all ants entering the nest carry a cargo of poison on their legs.

Because of its airborne nature, you’ll have to be careful not to breathe in the dust. Your lungs are particularly susceptible to chemicals. Also, dusts cling to surfaces. Wash yourself thoroughly after using them, including your hair.

Aerosols need the same precautions as dusts. Being in the air, it is easy to inhale them: be careful.

The chemicals in aerosols are often oil based, which increases both the shelf life and toxicity. They are in cans pressurized with air or a gas (such as freon) as a propellant. Some are meant to be released only while you hold down the trigger; others are “total release bombs” which empty themselves when the trigger is locked down.

Either way, the size of the nozzle opening is critical for effectiveness. If you can see the chemical fall, the nozzle opening is too large. A fine opening is much better unless you specifically need a heavier stream (such as when shooting a wasp nest). The resulting particles of a fine nozzle are smaller, and will drift farther and stay in the air longer.

A good aerosol is worth its weight in gold, especially for pests hiding in walls, cracks, or other inaccessible places. Only a few have a residual chemical, and most of these have a short life span. (You don’t want one with a long life span because the chemical will be coating everything.) The primary function of an aerosol is to flush out pests so they will touch the residual chemical you’ve already applied, or to get a quick kill.

Most aerosols contain pyrethrum, with piperonyl butoxide as a synergist. (A synergist is a chemical added to increase the effectiveness of the main insecticide.) Neither chemical is considered dangerous, but they should be respected. They can cause an allergic reaction in some people. If you’re one of those people, find something else to use.

Baits come in different forms, depending on which pest they are designed for. Snail and slug baits might be pellets or granules. Insect baits are usually powders or grains, substances the insect might be attracted to, thinking it’s food. Rodent baits might be cracked grain, pellets, or powders which are dissolved in water.

Don’t try to mix your own baits. They’re touchy things. Besides being potentially dangerous, if the bait is too strong, or too weak, it won’t work.

Commercially made baits work just fine. Except for snails and rodents, you’ll probably never need to use a bait anyway.

TYPES OF INSECTICIDES

There are four major categories of insecticide: chlorinated hydrocarbons, organo-phosphates, carbamates, and botanicals.

Chlorinated hydrocarbons, such as chlordane, have pretty much disappeared from use. They have an extremely long life span, and a tendency to build up in the fatty tissues of the body. The most unfortunate action of chlorinated hydrocarbons is that they can be passed along the food chain. A bird or fish that eats poisoned insects takes the poison into its body. Each day it feeds on those insects increases the level of poison in its own system. Likewise, if another animal feeds on the bird or fish, it inherits the increased dosage.

It is believed that chlorinated hydrocarbons work on the central nervous system. In larger animals, accidental poisoning shows itself in several ways. Nausea and diarrhea set in, along with damage to the liver and other organs. Severe poisoning might result in convulsions, unconsciousness, or death.

Once chlorinated hydrocarbons were found to be dangerous both to man and the environment, scientists turned to a second group of insecticides called the organo-phosphates. These toxins are based around the phosphoric acid molecule, and usually have a short life span when compared with the first group.

They enter the body through the lungs, or through the stomach. Although the rate of absorption is slow, they will also go into the skin.

Poisoning by carbamates is caused by a reduction of the cholinesterase. Symptoms of poisoning are excessive salivation and sweating, constriction of the pupils, and loss of coordination.

Botanicals are derived from plants. Pyrethrum, the best known botanical, is extracted from a variety of chrysanthemum. Botanicals tend to have extremely short lives, and tend to be the safest of the insecticides. There has never been a death traced to pyrethrum. The most common problem is that some people might react allergically.

Should accidental poisoning occur with any chemical, get help immediately. Unless the victim is in dangerous surroundings, don’t waste time trying to move him. Call a doctor as soon as possible, and give him all the information you can (chemical used, etc.). Wash off the chemical. The longer you take to do this, the more poison will be absorbed. Act quickly and calmly.

Better yet, be careful in the first place. The chemicals won’t be at all dangerous if you use them correctly: read the label.

Baygon. Baygon is a carbamate, with an odor that has always reminded me of mothballs. It has an extraordinary ‘knock down” power against a number of insects.

The two most common forms are liquid concentrate and bait (for roaches). The liquid is fairly dilute to begin with, requiring 4 to 8 ounces of concentrate per gallon of water. The bait is already prepared at the proper strength (usually 2 percent).

Baygon has two unfortunate habits. First, it is known to stain or pit many materials. Rugs, all kinds of cloth, and some rubber, plastic, and asphalt materials may be damaged. Second, it tends to crystallize, especially in cold weather. There is nothing quite as frustrating as having to completely tear down the sprayer because these crystals have jammed it up.

So, stay away from it unless you know how to tear down (and rebuild) your sprayer. It may not happen, but if it does, and you don’t know how the sprayer goes together, you could find yourself in a bit of trouble.

When used around porous materials, like unpainted wood, baygon is all but useless. It requires a fairly solid surface. Always be careful where you apply it. It is toxic to smaller life, especially birds and fish. If there is any chance of birds landing on it, or of the chemical washing into a lake, pond, or stream, don’t use it.

Boric acid. Boric acid acts as a desiccant, which means that it destroys the waxy coating of the insect. The insect then has no protection from the drying sun. Within a very short time it dies of dehydration.

Most often, boric acid is purchased as a powdery crystal. A light application along doorways, and in cracks where the pests crawl and hide works wonders. Boric acid has a great advantage in that it isn’t actually a poison.

Carbaryl. Carbaryl is better known as its brand name, Sevin. The two names are used interchangeably. It belongs to the class of carbamates. It has replaced DDT and parathion as a crop dust. Carbaryl is often used in flea and tick powders. It is not only very effective against these pests, but is also safe to use around the infested animals.

As mentioned before, carbamates are cholinesterase inhibitors. However, the action is easily reversed. This same action when caused by the organo-phosphates, tends to be irreversible. This makes carbaryl a generally safer chemical.

Carbaryl is made as a liquid concentrate, dust, or as granules. Sometimes it is used in conjunction with pyrethrum or rotenone. Its life span is fairly long, but it does not build up in the body, or in the environment.

It has a particularly deadly effect on bees. But, before they die, the bees tend to go “beserk.” After being hit with carbaryl, they’ll sting anything. If you have plants that need bees for pollination, use something else.

Certain plants can also be burned. Read the label before you use it.

Chlordane. From its name you can tell right off which chemical group this belongs in. It is a chlorinated hydrocarbon, perhaps one of the best known (next to DDT).

As of July 1975, the E.P.A. declared the used of chlordane, except for application for subterranean termites, to be illegal. As of April 15, 1988, its manufacture, sale, and use, other than of stock on-hand by a homeowner, is strictly illegal. Once the present stock is gone, if you have any, there will be no more. The reasons given were the long life span, the tendency of it to build up through the food chain, and the possibility that it might cause cancer.

The liquid concentrate is good for many insects both inside and out. Since it has a fuming action it is excellent against spiders, scorpions, and centipedes. It is highly effective against ants. (Dusts or granules are better than liquid on ants.)

Liquid chlordane has a higher potential of staining than does al most any other insecticide. Even professional exterminators didn’t like using it inside, or any place where staining could be a problem.

Because of its ability to stay in the body, building up when used often, caution must be observed. If you are using it as a liquid or dust, be careful not to breathe it. At best, you’ll be coughing and sneezing for the rest of the day. And, whatever your body has absorbed that day will still be with you for years to come.

DDT. The manufacture, sale, and use of DDT is strictly illegal. Present laws won’t even allow for its disposal. DDT has an extremely long life, and can be a hazard to the environment, and to life. If you have any, don’t use it! Contact the local E.P.A. for instructions as to what to do with it.

Don’t dispose of it without their telling you how to go about it. Chances are, they’ll just pick it up. Throwing it in the trash can is illegal, and dangerous.

The laws that surround DDT represent a perfect example of what happens when people abuse an insecticide. Its popularity was such that it was grossly over-used. Had it been used with a degree of intelligence, it wouldn’t have presented a danger. But, it was sprayed and dumped indiscriminately, and the result was the death of millions of birds, fish, other wildlife, and even a few people.

DDVP. Chances are you will never come across this chemical unless it is premixed as a “booster” with another insecticide. Even then, the E.P.A. is considering restricting or banning the chemical because of its harmful side effects on small animals. Their concern is especially strong when it comes to using the chemical in any confined area. It is readily absorbed by the skin and through the lungs.

Its chief action is as a vapor, which gives it its second name of Vapona, a brand name owned by Shell Oil. For some years they used it in their Shell Pest Strips and also sold it as a liquid concentrate.

It works primarily as a flushing agent or as a quick, direct kill, although it also has some residual action. The fumes reach into cracks and crevices. If the pests aren’t chased out across the previously (or simultaneously) applied residual chemical, DDVP can kill them where they are.

It’s best to avoid using DDVP, especially if there are children or pets around. Using it in a room where there is a fish tank can be disastrous. You’d possibly end up with no bugs, but also no fish. In short, even if the E.P.A. allows the continued use of DDVP, it’s not a chemical for the homeowner.

Diazinon. At present, diazinon is one of the more effective legal chemicals. It is an organo-phosphate, and can be used as a liquid, dust, granule, and occasionally as a bait. A common brand name is Spectracide, manufactured by Ciba-Geigy Corporation.

It is slightly more toxic to man than malathion, and is absorbed through the skin, lungs, or the stomach if swallowed. Handle it with care and respect.

It can also damage certain types of fern, hibiscus, and gardenia (among other plants). Be sure to read the label before using it on any plant. If in doubt, write directly to the manufacturer for further information.

Diazinon is particularly toxic to fish, birds, and other small wildlife. Apply it carefully, and don’t let any wash into streams or lakes. Small children may also be susceptible.

Despite this, diazinon is probably one of the best insecticides you can buy. If you use it as directed on the label, you’ll have no problems.

Heptachlor. Along with its close relative chlordane, Heptachlor is going into a gradual oblivion. Both substances were declared dangerous, and manufacture is now illegal.

By far, the most common form of Heptachlor was in granules. Few things can equal its effectiveness against ants. A light sprinkling of granules around an ant hill was sufficient to completely eliminate the problem.

The other major use of Heptachlor was as a “booster.” When mixed with chlordane (liquid), the two became an effective, and long lasting, treatment for termites.

The precautions that apply to chlordane also apply to heptachlor. It has an extremely long life span, and builds up in the body. Repeated use can be dangerous to you, and to the environment. Even if you happen to have some heptachlor lying around, try using the safer chemicals first. If you do use it, do so sparingly.

Kelthane. Kelthane is a chlorinated hydrocarbon, closely related to DDT. Its actions are basically the same, and it should be treated as a dangerous substance. Avoid it.

Lindane. Lindane is an extremely dangerous chlorinated hydrocarbon. It has been used on cotton insects and termites as well as many other pests. The vapor action of lindane makes it effective against flies, spiders, and mosquitoes. Sometimes it is manufactured in a tablet form, which is heated to give off the fumes.

The use of DDVP pretty much replaced lindane. It is much safer, and nearly as effective in most cases. Lindane has caused several deaths, and is particularly toxic to calves.

Although more toxic than DDT, lindane doesn’t build up in the body to such a degree, nor does it have such a long life. Still, it is dangerous. Avoid it whenever possible.

Malathion. With an odor somewhat similar to boiled cabbage, malathion is perhaps on the most widely used of all organo phosphates. It absorbs through the lungs, or through the stomach if swallowed. To a lesser extent, it might be absorbed through the skin.

It can be obtained both as a liquid concentrate, and as a dust. Occasionally it can be used as the active ingredient in certain baits, or even as a wettable powder.

Malathion can kill fish, and is also toxic to many kinds of birds. (Mixed with grease and spread on roosting spots, malathion has been used to kill pest birds.) Be careful when using it around these animals, and never let it run into any body of water. Mother Nature will love you for your consideration.

The life span might be anything from a few days to two months, depending on conditions. It is broken down quickly by heat or sunlight. While this is a definite plus where the environment is concerned, it also means that you must be certain to store it properly. Keep it out of direct sunlight. The dark-tinted bottle will help, but you must still take other precautions.

Along with being safer than most other residuals, malathion also has less tendency to stain. This doesn’t mean that it won’t, so apply it carefully.

Methoxychlor. Methoxychlor is one of the few chlorinated hydrocarbons still legal. It is safer to use than any other chemical of the same group. In fact, it is even safer than malathion.

About the only way you’ll ever see it is as a dust, usually under the title of “Rose Dust.” Occasionally it is mixed (by the manufacturer) with malathion in a liquid concentrate.

Unlike the other chlorinated hydrocarbons, methoxychlor has a short life span, and so provides little threat to the environment. Use it as directed on the label, and it can be safe, and effective. Its major use is in the garden, against such pests as aphids.

Parathion. Until recently, parathion was used as a crop dust. Something I’ll never understand. It’s extremely toxic, and quickly gets into the body through the skin, lungs, or by ingesting it. Poisoning occurs rapidly, and serious illness or death is not uncommon.

There are several instances where parathion leaked into the cockpit of the crop dusting plane. Almost invariably the pilot passed out, and crashed. In one case, six children were watching a crop duster, and had some of the dust drift across them. Of the six, three died, one was permanently blinded, and another has permanent nerve damage. Only one came out of the experience unscathed.

Stay away from it! Even if you happen to come by some, which you shouldn’t be able to do, don’t use it—anywhere!

Phosphorous. Phosphorous, usually in the form of a white, yellow, or red paste, has been used as a rodenticide. It is meant only for those who know exactly how to handle it. Stay away from it!

Poisoning occurs mainly through ingestion. But, there was a case where a three-year-old walked barefoot on some that had been applied to a baseboard. The child died. At best, skin contact might cause serious burns.

Pyrethrum. Along with the closely related Alrethrin, pyrethrum is a botanical. (Another botanical is strychnine.) The most common commercial pyrethrum is actually two types of pyrethrum, both extracted from plants.

It has never been known to cause a death, even when it was swallowed in a suicide attempt. Its life span is extremely short after exposure to air or light. Consequently, the chances of it harming the environment are nil. The only problem with pyrethrum is that it can cause an allergic reaction in some people.

Most often it is found as an aerosol (about 1 percent). Another use for pyrethrum is as a flushing dust. Insects touched by this dust are chased from their hiding places, and across the residual. Sometimes a residual, like diazinon, and pyrethrum are mixed together in a dust.

With the outlawing of chlordane, even for use against subterranean termites, synthetic pyrethrum has been used for this application. The most common brand name of this synthetic blend used for this is Torpedo, possibly named because it is applied beneath a structure, where the effects of air, sun, and heat won’t affect it.

Its entry is made through the skin. Insects die rapidly when they contact the chemical. In an aerosol, it may take just a few tiny droplets to kill a fly. The fly seems to “go crazy” and can be seen flying into objects, particularly windows. Later, you’ll find the dried- up carcass on the window sill.

Rotenone. Rotenone is very similar to pyrethrum, and is used in much the same way. Both are botanicals, and are safe to use around warm-blooded animals. However, rotenone tends to be toxic to fish.

Because it is extremely difficult to dissolve, retenone is usually manufactured as a dust. Occasionally it may be found in aerosols.

Silica. Several “insecticides” rely on silica (sometimes called silica aerogel) to kill. A common brand name is Permaguard. Like boric acid, silica works as a desiccant. The tiny crystals wear away the protective coating of the insect. The result is the dehydration of the body fluids.

Although it can be classed as an insecticide, silica is not a poison. , This makes it extremely safe. If you breathe in the powder it might have a drying effect in your lungs, but won’t actually do any harm.

Warfarin. The use of warfarin and pival (a type of warfarin) have replaced the use of phosphorous, thallium, and other dangerous rodenticides. When used as prepared by the manufacturer, it is safe.

The recommended strength is .025 percent. Although this seems to be a small amount, tests have shown it to be the most effective while still being safe. At this strength, larger animals are less likely to be harmed should they accidentally eat some of the bait. It takes approximately the same amount of bait as body weight to kill. A five-pound dog would have to eat nearly five pounds of the bait to kill him.

That doesn’t mean you can be careless with it. It is designed to work on warm-blooded animals. Even if it doesn’t kill, the internal problems can be unpleasant.

It works as a stomach poison, and does not absorb through the skin in any appreciable amounts. The poisoning takes place in two ways. First, it inhibits clotting of the blood. At the same time it causes internal hemorrhaging.

The rodent virtually bleeds to death. Because of the dehydration effect, the rodent will try to get to water. If none is available inside the home, it will go outside.

The ulcerating of the stomach causes nausea. The animal will seek blades of grass to induce vomiting, which is another force that drives him outside. Even if he finds the grass, a mouse cannot vomit. He merely ends up choking to death.

Besides the relative safety of warfarin, it has yet another advantage. Unlike the other more dangerous rodenticides, warfarin has less tendency to have a double action. A cat that eats a mouse killed by warfarin stands less chance of being poisoned himself. The only poison that affects the cat is what happens to remain in the stomach of the mouse. Accidental poisoning is possible, however. So, be sure that the family cat doesn’t get at the dead rodent. And, place the bait out of sight and reach.

Fumarin is one more type of warfarin. Usually it comes in a soluble powder. Mixed with water, and perhaps a bit of sugar, the rodent will not only be eating the poison, but also drinking it.

Of course, baits are all but useless if there is an abundance of other food sources around. The same applies with the liquid baits. Before you place the baits, remove all other sources of food and water.

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