Completing the Design of the Bathroom--DESIGN DEVELOPMENT--Home/Apartment Renovations

Whether you are contemplating a relatively minor cosmetic renovation, a radical change in your bathroom layout, or even creating a new bathroom from scratch, you will have to select new fixtures and materials. It is wise to familiarize yourself with the products available on the market before you crystallize your design decisions.

Regardless of size, all bathrooms have certain items in common: a toilet, a lavatory, and a tub or shower. These fittings need to be evaluated in terms of design, quality, cost, and space requirements.

BATHROOM FIXTURES

Bathtubs

The bathtub is perhaps the single major item in a bathroom. Tubs are available in a wide range of sizes, shapes, materials, and colors. The three principal materials used for bathtubs are enameled steel, cast iron, and fiberglass-reinforced acrylic. Enameled steel is adequate although not quite as durable as enameled cast iron. Acrylic plastics are used for particularly large or unusual shapes, since the material comes in sheet form and is pliable when heated. Most oversized bath tubs (those larger than 36” by 72”) are made of fiberglass-reinforced acrylic.

A standard bathtub is a rectangle 32” wide by 60” long. There are some models as narrow as 30” and as short as 48”. For particularly tight spaces, corner bathtubs are available, generally in the range of 34” by 42”. Of course, the actual dimensions and design vary with each manufacturer. As a general rule, renovators tend to provide the second bathroom with a standard bathtub if possible within the space constraints.

Master bathrooms are generally equipped with the larger and more exotic models. A popular size is 36” by 72”. When space is tight a compromise size is the 36”-by-66” model. There are, of course, much larger sizes, up to 64” by 83”. With the increase in size, there is also an increase in avail able shapes. Ovals are rather popular. Tubs designed for two and even four people are also on the market. These large tubs are almost invariably equipped with whirlpools.

In the last few years, the demand for tubs with whirlpools has increased substantially. For this reason, manufacturers have developed compact models. There is an efficiently sized model at 32” by 48” which is particularly aimed at renovators. (There are also tubs, specifically designed for renovations, with above-the-floor drainage to facilitate the installation.) Those of you with a bit more space can take a look at more standard sizes, such as 30” by 60” and 32” by 66”. The depths and shapes of these tubs are all slightly different. Once you know the specific dimensions that you have to work with, go to the showroom and actually get into each of the tubs available in that size. We all differ in height and shape, so what one person finds most comfortable might prove back breaking for someone else. Bear in mind that any bathtub equipped with a whirlpool also has electrical requirements. In addition, an access panel needs to be provided for the motor.

A new swimming tub on the market, about 4’ by 12’, has a built-in current for swimming in place, the swimmer’s equivalent to the treadmill.

Another popular tub alternative is the soaking tub. These tubs are specifically designed for sit ting or reclining and soaking. They are usually round with a built-in bench. The depth is much greater than that of a standard tub (about 30” vs. 15”). If you choose a soaking tub, you may need to build platforms around it for ease of access. The popularity of soaking tubs has been partially responsible for the revival of the old-fashioned bathtub on legs. The basic design has been up dated to provide increased comfort. There is an important difference between a platform tub and a soaking tub with three walled sides. A tub designed exclusively for use in a platform can't be used as a shower-tub combination. A separate shower enclosure needs to be provided elsewhere in the bathroom.

The color selection available for tubs (and for every other bathroom fixture) is extraordinary. The realm of basic white or pastels of thirty years ago is gone. Now there are several grays, beiges, whites, pinks and near pinks, blues, cranberries, browns, blacks, yellows, greens, reds, navies, taupes, and much more. Every year new colors are introduced to accommodate the latest fashions.

Lavatories

The two principal materials used for lavatories are vitreous china and enameled cast iron. They are also available in other materials, such as stainless steel, glazed fireclay, and Conan, a trade name for a man-made composite material. In addition to the standard materials, there are lavatories made out of hammered brass, chrome, and painted porcelain. Both vitreous china and enameled cast iron are excellent materials. The smaller sinks are usually made out of vitreous china whereas the larger ones are enameled cast iron. Stainless steel is a good material but its use is more associated with kitchen and utility sinks than with bathrooms. Glazed-fireclay lavatories aren't so readily available and they do have limitations in terms of wear and tear. There are some, however, primarily imports from Mexico, which offer a great variety of unique designs and colors. Conan sinks are becoming popular, particularly since they offer an “integral sink” design. This means that the lavatory is molded together with the countertop, offering a clean surface without joints or edges. It is an attractive cleaning feature.

There are three main types of lavatories: pedestal, countertop, and wall-hung. Pedestal sinks are the traditional favorites and the ones that older homes were equipped with. Because they are free-standing, they make small rooms feel larger. If planning to use a pedestal sink, provide additional shelf storage elsewhere in the bathroom. Most pedestal sinks have little room on their ledges for anything more than soap. Wall-hung sinks were designed later on and emphasized space saving and ease of maintenance. Houses built in the 1940’s and early 1950’s usually feature wall-hung sinks. From the late 1950’s on, the emphasis was placed on countertop lavatories. By installing a sink directly on a countertop a vanity could be provided underneath for storage while getting extra surface space for soaps and other bathroom paraphernalia. Countertop sinks come in two basic designs: self-rimming for over-the- counter installation and rimless for under- the-counter installation. Self-rimming sinks are the most popular. Below-the-counter models are generally used when the counter material is marble or granite. It is interesting to note that while countertop sinks are still the favorite for master baths and second bathrooms, pedestal sinks have again become very popular—this time for use in powder rooms, where storage and counter-space needs aren't as great.

Lavatory sizes vary as much as their designs. The most common size for a sink is 19” wide by 17” deep. There are, of course, many other sizes, ranging from 38” by 22” at one extreme to 12”- deep sinks to fit in tight spaces; some are oval, some round, some square. When choosing a countertop sink, keep in mind whether the faucet set is to be mounted on the sink itself or on the counter. This affects the usable space left for grooming. The sink’s depth and shape are also important. The deeper the sink, the more comfortable and self-contained it will be. The shallower the sink, the more water will splash onto the counter and floor. In terms of shape, round sinks are perhaps the least efficient. Rectangles and ovals tend to give more usable space and less water overflow.

Lavatories are available in even more colors than tubs. In addition, they also come with pat terns, stripes, and designs with color gradations. Some of the new models have nickel and copper finishes (polished or brushed) and there are some that are teak.

If you are replacing the lavatory in your bathroom without changing the rough plumbing, be sure the new sink can be installed with the existing plumbing configuration. Also, if you are re placing a lavatory and aren't changing the countertop, be sure the new lavatory will cover all of the existing opening. Should you decide to change the lavatory and not the faucet (or vice versa), be sure they are coordinated. One-hole lavatories must be equipped with a one-hole faucet fitting. Likewise a faucet set with a 4” or 8” spread is designed to fit only on lavatories with this hole spacing.

Toilets

Toilets are made out of vitreous china, which is durable, easily cleaned, and hygienic. There are two types of toilet: the flush tank and the flushometer. Tank toilets are generally found in one- and two-family homes. Flushometer models are used primarily in large apartment buildings. They are noisier than most tank models but have a stronger cleaning action. Tank toilets are designed as either one- or two-piece units. One-piece toilets have the tank integrally designed into the overall shape. These models tend to be the most contemporary in design and also are the most ex pensive. Because they are at the top of the line, they are designed to have a very quiet flushing mechanism. Two-piece toilets have a separate tank and seat and they are the most commonly used. A variation on the two-piece toilet is the pull-chain “vintage” toilet, which is presently becoming popular for period renovations.

When selecting a toilet, keep in mind the amount of water pressure present in the system. Flushometer-type toilets function well with high water pressure. Low-tank toilets work with moderate pressure. The higher the tank, the easier it's for the flushing mechanism to work, regardless of the water pressure. Toilets are also available in water-saver models.

The size of a toilet varies, particularly the length. The one-piece contemporary designs tend to be long and wide. Their advantage is that they are low. The more traditional two-piece toilets tend to be more consistent in size. A good rule of thumb is to allow for a minimum of 2’-o” in both width and length for the toilet. If you are thinking of replacing your toilet and not enlarging the bathroom, make sure that the new toilet will fit in the bathroom with room to stand in front and for straddling. The new toilets are much larger than their predecessors. There are only a few models on the market that are 25” in length; most are in the range of 23” to 30” long. In addition, if you are replacing the toilet without changing the rough plumbing, be sure the drainage requirements of the new toilet (called the roughing-in dimension, measured from the rear wall to the center of the pipe in the floor) conform to the existing conditions. (We’ve seen some ill- matched replacement toilets that were so far from the wall that they looked as if they were standing in the center of the room.)

In terms of colors, toilets come in as wide a palette as tubs and sinks. Generally, however, one-piece models are available in the greatest range of colors, two-piece designs are slightly more limited in color selection, and flushometer toilets have the fewest color options.

Bidets

While Europeans (with the exception of the English) have traditionally included bidets as part of their bathroom design, these fixtures are relative newcomers to the American bathroom. Like toilets, they are made out of vitreous china. The number of bidet designs is rather limited in comparison with other bathroom fixtures. The main reason is that their use has not become main stream in this country. They are generally left to the realm of master bathroom design in the more expensive renovations. Each manufacturer has three or four models, which usually complement their top-of-the-line toilets in both design and color. They are approximately 14” to 16” wide and 30” long (measured from the wall) including the fittings. Since bidets are generally straddled, with the user facing the wall, 1’-0” should be left clear on either side of the center line.

Bidets come with two varieties of fittings, one that operates like a sink and fills from a nozzle out-letting above the rim, the other with a nozzle that sprays upward from the bottom of the bowl. Before making your selection, check the municipal code. The bottom-of-the-bowl model may not be permitted in your municipality. You may be allowed to use this model if you equip it with an anti-siphoning device.

Bathing and Shower Modules

Bathing modules are becoming increasingly popular, particularly for renovation projects. These units consist of an integral bathtub-shower and surrounding wall enclosure. By providing a finished wall surface around the bathing area, these units offer substantial savings in cost and installation time. (Traditional tiling and grouting of walls is completely eliminated.) Bathing modules are made of reinforced fiberglass or plastics. Be aware that their use isn't permitted in all localities.

Completing the Design of the Bathroom

Modules come in basically three different types. There are one-piece units with no seams. They are easy to clean, having no cracks or crevices to collect dirt. These units are best suited for new construction. (If you decide to buy a one- piece module, make sure you have enough clearance to bring it into the space through doors, stairs, elevators, etc.) Two-piece units are designed in two sections, the lower shower or tub and the upper enclosure. This design offers a good solution to the problem of clearances through the building. A variation on the module is called the bath or shower surround. This plastic surround is designed to coordinate with bathtubs and shower receptors. The wall panels come in five pieces (two end panels, one back wall panel, and two corner panels). The result is a module “look” with the ease of assembly of smaller pieces.

Bathing modules come in a variety of sizes, ranging from the standard 32” by 60” bathtub to a 32” by 36” shower. They are available with several options, such as ledges for soap and shampoo, storage shelves, corner seats, and grab bars, and come in a good number of colors.

Showers

A custom shower consists of a shower pan with a drain and a wall enclosure. The shower pan collects the water and directs it to the drain, pre venting water from leaking to the floor structure below. Shower pans have traditionally been made out of lead. Lead, although durable, is heavy and difficult to work with. Plastic pans made of heavy-gauge vinyl are also available. They are easier to work with and are lighter than lead pans. An added bonus is that plastic pans are cheaper. Not all municipalities allow the use of plastic. Check before finalizing your decision.

Ceramic tile is applied over the shower pan and all walls surrounding the shower. Care must be taken to grout the tiles properly. All joints between dissimilar materials should be caulked with silicone. The enclosure has to be kept watertight.

A shower stall should be no less than 30” by 30”. A more comfortable size for a shower is 36” by 36”. Keep in mind when deciding on the size that you need elbow room and room for bending.

We know of one unit that was hoisted fourteen stories. The window and its frame had to be removed to get the module in.

FITTINGS

The number of bathroom fittings presently on the market is rather impressive, with designs ranging from strictly contemporary to period reproductions. In terms of materials, the standard fittings are chrome-plated brass. They are also available in other finishes, such as satin chrome, polished and satin brass, pewter, and even gold. For those interested in ease of maintenance there are washerless fittings. At the very least you will need a faucet set for the lavatory, a bathtub filler, and a shower head. Any and all of these items can be purely utilitarian or extraordinarily luxurious, de pending on your budget and general requirements.

Lavatory fittings (faucets) can be either single- or double-handled. Most people tend to choose double handles for the bathroom while leaving the single-lever models for purely utilitarian areas such as the kitchen and laundry room. Sinks come with holes to accommodate the faucets, which are mounted either directly on the holes in the sink or on a metal deck. Faucets can be installed directly on the countertop as well. (This is generally done with under-the-counter sinks.) Faucet handles are available in a vast number of designs from basic metals to Lucite and stones such as marble and onyx. Most lavatories are designed to take either a 4” or 8” spread set or one hole, de pending on the spacing of the holes.

Tub fillers are generally available to match the lavatory selection. They are either wall-mounted or deck-mounted. Wall-mounted designs are usually combined with diverters and shower heads. Deck-mounted tub fillers are most often designed for bathrooms that have a separate tub with enough room around it to allow for the deck installation. If using an extra-large tub, be sure to select a tub filler of the appropriate size. Other wise it may take a very long time to fill the bath tub. In addition, if the deck-mounted tub has a wide rim, you may need an extra-long faucet.

Shower fittings, like tub fillers, come in designs to match those of the lavatory and tub. If you have a preference for a shower head with varying pressure and water jets, make sure that the design you select offers these options. It is sometimes possible to substitute shower heads within the same faucet design. There are models that feature automatic temperature controls which maintain the water at the set degrees during your entire shower. Hand showers are also becoming popular as an additional feature.

FINISHINGS

Accessories

There are a number of accessories that are essential in a bathroom. You need towel bars, towel rings, a toilet-paper holder, and hooks. In addition, you may need soap and toothbrush holders. Many companies offer towel bars, rings, and toilet-paper holders that match some of their more expensive fittings. Many other models are available, ranging from traditional to strictly con temporary. Although most bathroom accessories are made of either metal or porcelain, they are also available in enameled or plastic-covered metals and in Lucite. Towel bars come in lengths of 18” to 24”. The other accessories are relatively standard in size. It may be hard to find ceramic fittings to match your tile walls.

Wall and Floor Materials

As with every other aspect of bathroom design, your choice of materials largely depends on the size of your budget. There is no question that you need a water-resistant material next to bathtub and shower walls. The remaining walls and even the floor can be surfaced with pretty much any thing you like. We must note, however, that it makes good sense to cover the bathroom floor with a water-resistant surface. In fact, many codes require a ceramic tile floor and base. (For a discussion of ceramic tile)

Lighting

Adequate light is important in a bathroom, particularly at the bathroom sink. In order to shave and apply makeup you need even illumination for your face. The best place to locate the lights is on the wall (rather than the ceiling) directly above the sink. The lights could be at either side of the mirror or at the top of the mirror in a continuous line. If your bathroom is small, this light will probably be sufficient for the entire room. Larger bathrooms may require additional lights. These are often placed directly above the shower or tub.

(Make sure that it's a water-resistant type of fixture.) Often bathroom lights are combined with exhaust vents.

Medicine Cabinets and Mirrors

Medicine cabinets come in many shapes, sizes, and materials. At the very least, a medicine cabinet should have enough room for toothbrushes, combs, prescription drugs, etc. It is also helpful if it's large enough to store hair dryers, shavers, and extra shampoo bottles. The most common size for a medicine cabinet is 18” or 24” wide by 30” long. It is usually placed directly above the sink and has mirror doors. Other locations, such as the walls at either side of the sink or directly above the toilet, are also possible. A vertical (floor-to-ceiling) medicine cabinet can be helpful where width is a problem.

Medicine cabinets can be recessed into the wall or surface-mounted. Their depth should be a minimum of 3 1/2”, leaving 3” of clear shelf space inside. Deeper medicine cabinets are even better. A 6”-deep cabinet allows you to store items such as water picks and electric curlers.

Stock medicine cabinets are readily available in bathroom and tile supply stores. Their designs (from traditional to contemporary) vary as much as their prices. These cabinets are usually made out of metal or plastic with adjustable glass shelves. Some come with built-in lights. Custom- designed cabinets are generally made out of ply wood or particle board covered with plastic laminate for ease of cleaning. The shelves can be glass or laminate.

Mirrors (whether on the doors of the medicine cabinets or elsewhere in the room) are important to bathroom design. You need a mirror to comb your hair and to shave. A mirror should be placed directly over the sink. The top edge should be at least 6’ from the floor. Several lights on the wall directly above the mirror or at either side give you the best illumination. Small bathrooms could be made to feel larger by placing mirrors on several walls. Mirrors placed directly across from a window could brighten even the darkest of bath rooms. Mirrors come in clear, bronze, and silver colorings. The type most often used for bath rooms is 3/16” safety plate glass.

Shower Doors

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