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The kitchen is the room most often renovated and we will cover this material in great detail. We have already discussed kitchen layouts in Section 7, and by this time you should have a measured drawing of the existing space and some idea as to the best layout for the renovated kitchen. This section covers kitchen appliances, storage space, cabinets, backsplash and counter materials, flooring, and lighting. What goes into the kitchen itself (in terms of appliances, storage space, and the number of square feet of counter area) depends on the cook’s needs and budget. There is no end to the gadgets that can be included in a kitchen. Here is a list of the most essential: COOKING APPLIANCES If the twentieth century has given us nothing else, it has given us numerous ways to cook an egg. Cooking appliances have become so complex it's difficult for the buyer to make a decision without understanding appliance terminology. Cooking Fuels Cooking appliances use either gas or electricity. Common wisdom holds that gas is preferred for the burners because the heat can be increased or decreased almost instantaneously. Many cooks feel that electric ovens have the advantage over the gas varieties in that the temperature can be maintained more uniformly. Gas broilers and grills are generally preferred over their electric counterparts. The authors have cooked with both electric and gas appliances and find that both work well in most situations. Most people don't have a choice of fuels since piped-in gas isn't available in most areas (although bottled gas can be used for a cooktop). Cooks in urban areas generally have a choice between gas and electricity and select gas since (in recent years) the fuel costs less. Electric cooking appliances generally draw more amperage than conventional (non-heat-generating) appliances and a great deal more cur rent than gas-fueled units that use an electric spark to ignite the gas. An all-electric home requires larger electric service than a house with mostly gas appliances. Before selecting one fuel over the other, determine whether you have adequate electric power. Have an electrician evaluate your existing amperage. (Don’t add up the numbers on the fuses or circuit breakers; they often give you an inaccurate picture.) If you don't have enough current, you may have to bring up a new line from the cellar. This is often a very expensive proposition and , in fact, it may be untenable, particularly if you live in an apartment house. Your building may not have any additional electricity for you to tap, or your landlord may not want to see exposed conduit snaking through his back halls. Cooktops Cooking, meaning boiling, steaming, frying, or sautéing, is done on a cooktop containing two or more burners (heat sources). The cooktop is often a separate unit set into a counter. (When a cook top is combined with an oven-broiler, the combi nation is called a range.) The cooktop can be fueled by gas or electricity. Electric burners are called heating elements. The newest products being marketed include an electric cooktop consisting of solid disk- shaped burners set into a flat panel of heat- resistant glass. Manufacturers claim that this product eases cleaning since drips can't fall under the heating elements, where they are hard to get at. Another new product, the induction cooktop, looks like a flat sheet of black glass with circles drawn on it. The induction cooktop heats pots and pans by means of magnetic friction and does not heat the cooktop surface at all. Only metal utensils can be used. Manufacturers claim that the unit is safer (in that it's not hot to the touch), very easy to keep clean, and superior to conventional electric burners since temperature changes can be made instantaneously. Cooktop accessories include a griddle, a rotisserie, and a grill in addition to the standard burners. The griddle is a flat metal plate, often Teflon-coated, which cooks food in the manner of an oversized frying pan. The rotisserie rotates the food on a spit, so that the juices turn with the meat, thus self-basting the roast. The grill sears food by using a somewhat remote high- temperature source located below the grate on which the food is placed. Cooktops come in a variety of nonstandard widths from 30” to about 45”, with some models available at 24” and 15”. Ovens Baking and roasting are done in ovens, which are enclosed units. The traditional oven as we know it's the conventional or radiant oven. It is fueled by either gas or electricity and bakes by heating the air in the oven cabinet. Microwave ovens cook food by using electromagnetic waves and run exclusively on electricity. Convection ovens use a fan within the oven to circulate hot air around unheated food. Some manufacturers claim that the time needed to cook various poultry and meat dishes is reduced by the use of a convection oven, and that some pies and could be baked at lower temperatures than normally required. Many oven manufacturers produce a convertible convection-radiant oven. At least one manufacturer features an electric convection-microwave convertible oven. Broiling is generally done in the oven cabinet. Food is cooked by high heat emitted a few inches above the food from either an electric element or gas jets. The double wall oven might have two radiant oven-broilers or a microwave oven above and a radiant oven -broiler below. Some manufacturers market a double unit with a convertible oven on top and a radiant oven-broiler below. Wall ovens are 24” deep and either 24” or 27” wide. The heights of the double units may vary from one manufacturer to another. An additional product combines a microwave oven with a vent hood to be located above the range or stove top. (This oven may be a micro wave-convection convertible.) More on these below. Ranges The basic range contains four burners on top and an oven-broiler below. The unit generally comes either 24”, 30”, or 36” wide and in various styles, including stainless-steel-and-glass models or enameled finishes in various colors. A hi-low style of range contains two ovens, one below the cooktop and one suspended above. The top oven may be a conventional oven-broiler or a microwave plus a vent hood. Commercial Ranges Many cooks prefer a large restaurant-sized gas range to those available on the residential market. The range is large (often 32” deep) and the finish, although durable, isn't as sleek as that of the residential models. Advantages are the additional features available, such as a salamander broiler, high-heat gas jets, greater distance between burners, which allows for the use of wider pots and pans, and enormous ovens. Many commercial ranges have six burners and one or two ovens below. Combining Cooking Appliances -- Completing the Design of the Kitchen These cooking appliances can be combined in a 93 number of ways. The simplest configuration is the stand-alone range with its four burners and oven-broiler below. To expand the capabilities of this simple cooking system you may hang a microwave—vent hood from the cabinet above the range. Many cooks need to bake and broil at the same time and prefer to have two baking ovens in addition to a microwave and broiler. This can be accomplished by using a double wall oven, a cooktop, and a microwave—vent hood, or by in stalling a double oven (one with a microwave above and an oven-broiler below) in addition to a standard range. Both of these schemes provide the cook with two ovens, two broilers, and a microwave. The advantage of having a range rather than a wall oven is its interior capacity. Range ovens are usually 30” wide, providing a wider interior oven than the wall-hung varieties, whose overall width is either 24” or 27”. Cleaning Self-cleaning ovens have become almost standard. Almost all electric ovens are available in self-cleaning models. When you choose to clean the oven, the door is locked and a great amount of heat is generated inside the oven that literally burns off grease and spills. A variation on the self-cleaning oven is the continuous-clean oven, which has a Teflon-like surface that tends to slough off grease and spills. The continuous-clean ovens are supposed to continuously burn off oven residue. Many cooks prefer the self-cleaning ovens to the continuous-clean varieties. Most (al though not all) gas ovens are available only with the continuous-clean feature, although some have self-cleaning ovens. Since features in all appliances tend to change from year to year, it's best to consult with an appliance dealer who is familiar with a wide variety of manufacturers and models. Exhaust Vents Venting is another variable worthy of consideration. The word “venting” (which generally means the removal of smoke or fumes) is used in numerous ways, which often leads to confusion. Most cooking produces odors and steam that enter the room and are distributed to the rest of the house by normal air circulation. These fumes may be removed by a hood located directly over the burners. This exhaust hood has a suction fan that draws fumes and smoke into the unit and whisks them away via ducts to the outside. A variation on this ventilation hood is a recycling or ductless variety. This hood draws the fumes into the unit through a filter designed to remove odors and grease. The cleansed air is then released to the room. These ventilation or exhaust hoods aren't to be confused with ovens that require venting. Some wall-oven models require special ducts that remove excess heat, smoke, and odors from the unit directly. Not all wall ovens require venting. Most microwave ovens don't require special venting. A third use of the word “venting” refers to the elimination of toilet and other plumbing odors. The kitchen sink drainage plumbing will have to be vented by a pipe about 1 1/2” in diameter concealed in the wall. Yet another kind of venting is required (usually by municipal code) for kitchens (and bathrooms) that have no natural ventilation through windows. This vent has a diffuser, fan, and duct system which draws air from the room to the exterior of the building. Last, your clothes dryer requires a flexible hose to vent moisture (and gas fumes) to the outside. REFRIGERATION The modern kitchen requires both refrigerator and freezer. These two functions may come in a single unit or can be separated into two boxes. Typically, refrigerator-freezer combinations come in a number of styles, each in a variety of sizes. The freezer-above/refrigerator-below model has one or two doors. The refrigerator- above/freezer-below model usually has two doors. The side-by-side refrigerator-freezer al lows the cook to see what is in the box at eye level. The disadvantage of the side-by-side models (especially in the narrower widths) is the difficulty in storing containers that are wider than the interior width of the cabinet. Many households, particularly those large in size or in rural areas, require refrigerators and freezers with very large capacity and might select separate units for each. Refrigerator-freezers don't come in standard sizes. Each manufacturer seems to have his own height, width, and depth criteria. Almost all of the other kitchen appliances (ranges, dishwashers, etc.) are designed to fit the standard kitchen counter width of 24”. Most of the popularly priced refrigerators come in depths of 29” or more. When designing the layout of the kitchen, be sure that the door swings clear of the counter on the opposite side. Some manufacturers have a 24” -deep model that looks built-in. The doors are designed to receive plastic laminate or wood panels to match the cabinet doors. These refrigerators tend to be more expensive. If you are redesigning a kitchen to include your existing refrigerator, keep in mind that your unit may not last more than a few years. It may be difficult to find a new model of the same capacity to fit the allotted space. (This is generally not a problem with modular units such as dishwashers, always 24” wide, and ranges, mostly 30” wide.) Furthermore, consider your future refrigeration needs. You may require a larger unit in a few years. If so, visit an appliance store and obtain the specifications for a larger refrigerator. Design the space for the larger model. Most freezers are available in frost-free versions, which draw a bit more power than conventional freezers but completely eliminate frost buildup and the need to defrost the refrigerator. Freezers that come equipped with icemakers must have cold-water lines to the unit. SINKS and DISHWASHERS There is nothing as uncomplicated as the kitchen sink, or is there? It comes in stainless steel or enameled cast iron, the latter in a variety of colors. The stainless-steel sink comes in single, double, or triple configurations of various sizes and shapes, with or without adjacent drainboards. Each of these configurations, in turn, comes in various sizes, bowl depths, metal gauges, and steel finishes. You will also have to choose the number of holes (for the faucet fittings) you will require. The enameled sink is available in some what fewer options. Both stainless-steel and enameled varieties can be had with accessory baskets and chopping boards that fit over the bowls to make vegetable preparation easier. Most people find a single large sink, about 25” wide (by 22” deep) sufficient. Others prefer two (smaller) side- by-side sinks. Industrial designers have had a field day with the kitchen faucet. The familiar style of a central faucet and two winglike valve openers is still available. Newer models include a gooseneck faucet or a single faucet with a level that can be moved right and left for hot and cold water. The three-piece set requires a sink with three holes; the single faucet needs only one opening. The remaining openings can be used for other wash- related accessories, such as a spray, a liquid-soap or hand-cream dispenser, and /or an instant- boiled-water device. Most of these accessories are located under the counter, with only the dispenser coming through the hole. An unused hole can always be capped. A garbage-disposal unit located under one sink has become standard in some areas. Check with the local authorities (if you have city sewage) or with the firm that services your house’s waste system to see if a garbage disposal is permitted or advisable. A water-purification system may be desirable or necessary in many situations. Some filtering systems claim to remove most impurities such as chemicals, asbestos fibers, and dirt. A more powerful model claims to remove toxic chemicals as well. Some systems merely soften hard water or filter out sand and silt. The dishwasher has become a standard element in any kitchen. This modular unit (always designed to fit into a 24”-wide space under the counter adjacent to the sink) comes in a limited number of styles and with only a few options. The device may or may not scrub pots, preheat water to sterilizing temperatures, or provide an air-dry cycle. A new model of dishwasher is designed to fit directly under the sink, a boon to very small kitchens. SMALL APPLIANCES There are a number of small appliances that may be built into your kitchen or pantry. A garbage compactor 12” (or more) wide will compress (and deodorize) a full week’s garbage into a 25-pound bag. An electric can opener might ease food preparation. If you throw a lot of parties, you might consider installing heating ovens so that you or your caterer can heat precooked food. You could also put in an under-the-counter icemaker that will pro vide you with 25 pounds of ice a day. A very convenient small appliance is a food center, actually a single motor-driven device that allows you to “plug in” a number of small convenience appliances. The motor is lodged beneath the counter with only a small plate showing on top. The plate contains a connecting device and control switch. The unit is designed to operate a mixing attachment, blender bowl, knife sharpener, fruit juicer, ice crusher, meat grinder, or full-sized food processor. Since they are motorless, the attachments are much lighter than their stand alone cousins and are stored away in adjacent cabinets. The device is popular since it clears the counter of heavy appliances that aren't used often. A convenient kitchen-related item is the built- in ironing center, a narrow cabinet that holds one or more drop-down ironing boards, an iron, an outlet, and a spotlight. WASHERS and DRYERS Where space is at a premium, especially in an apartment, a kitchen renovation might include the installation of a washing machine and a dryer. These appliances may be stacked one on top of the other in a corner of the kitchen or installed side by side under the counter. Not all manufacturers produce machines designed to fit under the counter. These front-loading models have their controls on the face of the machines rather than on the top. The most popular model is just shy of being full-sized. There are more choices in stack able combinations than there are for under-the- counter installations, most of them front-loading. Some models, designed for small households, aren't full-sized and have the dryer suspended on a rack so that the washing machine can be top- loaded. One new model has a tilt-forward washing machine to facilitate top loading. Most electric and (to our knowledge) all gas dryers must be vented to the outside through a duct pipe. The vent exhausts moisture-laden air to the outside of the house. The dryer must be located not much more than 10’ from the outside of the house. (Some municipalities forbid an exhaust outlet that's placed within 8’ of a window.) There is an electric dryer that does not require venting. The moisture from the drum goes into a pan at the bottom of the dryer which must be emptied periodically. This dryer can be located almost anywhere in the house. Kitchen storage divides into three types: over head cabinets, under-the-counter cabinets, and full-height closets. The categories of items to be stored are more numerous. Food items that are frequently used should be stored close to the main kitchen action in overhead cabinets or in a full-height pantry. Items that are being stored for future use, like the extra roll of paper towels or the case of canned tomatoes, may be stored in an area peripheral to the kitchen. Spices should be stored near but not directly over the cooktop since heat might cause them to dry out too quickly. The best-designed spice cabinets are one jar deep. Some cooks prefer to keep the spice jars exposed rather than behind closed doors. Spice racks can be designed to fit on the inside of cabinet doors. Pots and pans can be stored anywhere convenient to the cooktop. They are best stored at eye level in a full-height cabinet so that the cook does not have to bend to lift heavy pots. Next best is in under-the-counter cabinets on roll-out shelves which eliminate the necessity of poking one’s head into the depths of the cabinet. Many cooks prefer to hang pots and pans on hooks adjacent to the range. Be sure not to hang the pots directly over the cooktop, because the exposed pots might be spattered with grease. It isn't advisable to store heavy pots in over-the-counter cabinets. A heavy pan may fall off the shelf while you are rummaging around in the cabinet and can cause a good deal of damage. Everyday dishes and glasses are best stored very close to the dishwasher. These may be located in the cabinets above the dishwasher or in a nearby full-height closet. Rarely used china, serving dishes, coffee urns, and crystal wine gob lets can be stored anywhere in the kitchen or in a buffet cabinet in the dining room. Serving trays, cookie sheets, and flat broiler pans are generally stored on edge in a cabinet with vertical dividers. Silverware is best stored in a drawer near the dishwasher. Cooking utensils such as wooden spoons and basters should be in drawers close to the cooktop and /or ovens. Frequently used small appliances, such as the toaster, toaster-oven, automatic coffee maker, food processor, and the like, are best left on a countertop as close to the breakfast area as possible. Less used appliances, such as the mixer and blender, are often stored in an under-the-counter cabinet. Again, a unit with roll-out shelves is preferable to one with fixed shelves. An innovative storage concept widens the counter to 2’-10” with a tambour or rolltop door enclosing the back 10” where the appliances are located. When planning the kitchen, remember to allocate space for the small-appliance accessories, such as blades for the processor and paper filters for the coffee maker. STORAGE SPACE Garbage, not really a long-term storage item, must be stored temporarily. Many householders plywood panels are covered in a veneer of either hardwood (such as oak, walnut, teak, or cherry) or plastic laminate (now in a wide variety of brand names, colors, and textures), or laminated with stainless steel, or sprayed with a shiny, durable paint. Flush-door cabinets can have simple metal or wood handles or pulls (or no pulls at all if you are using touch latches). Sometimes the pull is an integral part of the design in the guise of a long wood or metal strip with a carved finger groove. The strips can be mounted horizontally or vertically. Paneled-door cabinets are generally constructed of a 3/4”_ or 1”-thick solid wooden frame with an insert of either plywood or glass. The hardwood of the frame and the wood veneer of the plywood inset are selected or stained to match. The wooden frames can have rounded edges and the juncture between frame and inset can be finished with trim pieces. The wooden doors and drawers can be coated with a clear finish showing the natural color and grain of the wood or can be stained slightly or much darker before finishing. The wood can be brushed with a semi-opaque white or pastel stain or can be spray-painted with a completely opaque color. More elaborate cabinetwork includes brass in lays, molded acrylics, grooved insets, leaded glass, and tambour doors. Cabinet Hardware At some point along the line you will have to decide on the cabinet hardware, which includes door and drawer pulls, hinges, and other closure devices. If you are using factory-constructed cabinets, it's likely that the hinges will be part of the finished product, but you may be able to choose the door pulls from a preselected sampling. Cabinet hinges are either exposed or concealed. The cabinet style that uses exposed hinges has hardwood frames and overlapping doors. The hinges are sometimes decorative and part of the design. The European look in cabinets has a door that completely covers the face of the cabinet and utilizes a concealed European hinge. A third style in hinges is the pivot hinge, which allows the doors to be set in a thin frame. The hinges are barely exposed in the far corners of the doors. The concealed European hinge has a device that holds the cabinet closed. Mechanical or magnetic catches may be used with the other hinge types. If you don't wish to use door and drawer pulls on the cabinets, you may select a push latch that find that a small pail attached to the inside door of the sink cabinet is enough. Most families find this pail to be inadequate. We suggest you install the small pail (for such wet items as eggshells and peelings) and plan on having a larger pail elsewhere. This garbage receptacle can be free standing and moved where needed or can be built into the cabinetwork. One solution is a garbage “drawer” about 2’-o” high and 18” wide located near the sink. A plastic pail is inserted in the drawer, which can be opened and closed as needed. Cabinets Kitchen cabinets can be purchased ready to be installed or can be custom-made. Custom cabinets can be constructed in almost any style or size or to fit any configuration. The advantage of the custom cabinet is that it's made to fit the exact space of the kitchen and there is little wasted space and few “filler” panels. Custom cabinets can vary in height and depth, can be constructed in curved or trapezoid shapes, and can be very innovative in design. If constructed by a master cabinetmaker, the custom cabinet can be made as sturdy and as attractive as premium furniture. Factory-made cabinets come in a wide variety of styles, prices, and levels of quality and may be less expensive than the custom-made kind (al though premium American-made and imported cabinets are about as costly as good custom-made cabinets) If time is a major consideration you might select factory-made cabinets that are in stock and ready for immediate delivery and installation. Since they are mass-produced, factory- made cabinets can be fabricated with details or finishing materials unavailable to the custom cabinetmaker or too expensive to produce for one kitchen. An added attraction is the wide selection of accessories for the interiors of the cabinets, such as spice and wine racks, corner-cabinet lazy Susans, pull-out and fold-out shelves, wire baskets, and drawer insets. The custom cabinetmaker can make most of these items but custom-made accessories are likely to be very costly. There is also a line of semi-custom cabinets. These cabinets are made in the factory and , like ordinary stock cabinets, come in standard sizes. However, they are provided with filler strips that can be cut and fit around the standard cabinets to make the installation appear to be custom-built. Most flush-door cabinets, either custom- or factory-made, are constructed of 3 ply wood or particle board. The faces and edges of the allows you to open the cabinet or drawer by gently pushing in. This releases the latch, opening the door or drawer a bit. You then manually open it further. Pulls come in a wide variety of styles, from contemporary to traditional. Most require either one or two holes drilled through the face of the door or drawer. They come in brass, plastic, wood, and stainless steel, in a number of finishes or enameled in various colors. Childproof latches may be used in addition to the hinges, pulls, and closure devices listed above. They are installed on the inside of cabinet doors to prevent children from getting into lower kitchen cabinets. To open the cabinet, you pull on the knob, partially opening the door. You then insert your hand into the cabinet to release the inside latch. FINISHING MATERIALS Counter Materials We will begin our discussion by answering the most frequently asked question regarding countertops: No, there is no perfect, indestructible material for kitchen work areas. There are many good counter materials but each has its draw backs. Plastic laminate (more popularly known by the brand name Formica) is installed by gluing the fraction-of-an-inch-thick material to a ¾” ply wood countertop. Laminate comes in a wide variety of colors and in a few subtle patterns and textures. (Some of the less than subtle patterns mimic wood grain.) Manufacturers produce two basic finishes, one shiny (and easily scratched) and the other matte. A third finish, available in limited patterns, is partially shiny. Some patterned laminates have indentations to conform to the patterns; these add to the textural interest of the material. At least one manufacturer features an abrasion-resistant laminate designed for countertops. Plastic laminate is a thin veneer of color applied to a base sheet and is available in three thicknesses. The thickest material is used on horizontal work surfaces, a thinner laminate is used for vertical surfaces such as cabinet doors, and backer board, the thinnest, is generally used on the inside of cabinets or to line shelves. One manufacturer produces a solid-core product that looks like ordinary laminate but is manufactured so that the color penetrates the entire thickness of the material. The main advantage is to eliminate the dark line of the base material that's visible where ordinary laminated surfaces meet one another at right angles. Plastic laminate does scratch if you cut directly on it, and it will stain under some conditions. You shouldn't place hot pots directly on a laminated surface. Cutting boards and hot plates must be used to protect the surface. Glazed ceramic tile, on the other hand, is stain- resistant and hard enough to cut on. It too comes in a wide variety of patterns, textures, and colors. One manufacturer provides special accessory tiles for counter use, such as tiles with raised-lip edges to limit spills from the counter. The problem with a ceramic tile counter is the grout that fills the spaces between the tiles. The grouted joints are prone to collecting dirt and food particles and stain easily. This problem is reduced somewhat by the use of a dark grout which blends in with the stains. (See Section 10 for more information on ceramic tiles.) Granite and marble are often used on kitchen countertops. Granite is an extremely hard stone and takes a high polish. The polishing process seals the pores of the granite and makes it highly resistant to stains. It is, perhaps, the most durable of the counter materials. Still, you are advised not to cut on a highly polished granite counter since you will scratch the finish. Marble makes a particularly beautiful countertop but it's not stain- resistant and it can be scratched. Both materials are very expensive and must be cut professionally and installed to exact specifications to avoid cracking. (More information on marble and granite can be found in Section 10.) Butcher block is often used so that the counter becomes a continuous cutting board. Although the material will scratch when repeatedly cut on, it can be sanded and refinished every few years. The main drawback to butcher block is that it's porous and can be stained. If the stain has penetrated deep enough, superficial sanding will not remove it. It should be noted that some health authorities no longer permit butcher-block work surfaces in restaurant food preparation areas, because the porous surfaces may absorb bacteria and are difficult to sanitize. Another category of counter materials comprises composite plastic products designed to resemble stone. The first, well known by the brand name of Conan, comes in a few light colors and a marble pattern. The material should be cut professionally and must be well supported to avoid cracking. It isn't stain-resistant but, like butcher block, it can be sanded every few years to eliminate scratch marks Some manufacturers produce a substance that resembles polished granite. It shares a number of characteristics with Conan. As of this writing it has not been on the market long enough to establish a long track record of performance. Flooring Counter color and texture should coordinate with the cabinets. Wood-patterned laminate shouldn't be used with natural-wood cabinets. (We prefer natural or man-made materials that don't disguise themselves as something else rather than artificial products made to resemble natural ones. We would probably not use plastic laminate in a wood-grain pattern for any surface.) If you have plastic laminate on the doors of the cabinets, you can use any of the above materials for the counters. If you select laminate, you may choose the same color for the counter that you used for the doors or a slightly darker (or lighter) shade or a completely contrasting color. Wood cabinets also work with any of the above counter materials. Be careful in using butcher block with heavily grained wood cabinets. The two heavily patterned materials may look too busy together. Similarly, some ceramic tiles may be too over bearing for wood cabinets with a pronounced grain pattern. The Backsplash The wall space between the counter and the upper cabinets is called the backsplash. There are two reasons why some material needs to be put in this space. One, the area behind the counter, especially near the sink, should be protected from water and batter spattering. Second, the gap between the counter and the wall should be closed so that water and food don't fall in the crack. The backsplash is often only a few inches high, but we prefer (for aesthetic as well as practical reasons) to make the splash the full height of the space between counter and overhead cabinet. An attractive backsplash is one covered in ceramic tile. The tiles can be plain or in elaborate patterns. The countertop can be made of any of the above-mentioned materials as long as you co ordinate the tile color and pattern with the color of the counter. If you are using tile on the counter, you are advised to select the same tile or a closely related tile for the backsplash. Plastic-laminated plywood may be used with a laminate counter, and marble or granite backsplashes can be used with their counterparts. The two most commonly used kitchen floor surfaces are vinyl products in tile or sheet form or ceramic tiles. The best argument for a vinyl floor is that it has a more resilient surface than a ceramic floor and is, therefore, easier on the feet. Many people claim that objects dropped on resilient flooring are less likely to break. Also, the vinyl products are less expensive than ceramic tile and easier and cheaper to install. Wood can be used on kitchen floors if it's cared for on a regular basis. The floor should be polyurethaned initially and maintained periodically by lightly roughing the surface and applying an additional layer of polyurethane. The floor should be cleaned by damp mopping. (More on wood flooring can be found in Section 10.) Material Coordination By this time you will be juggling four materials, one for the cabinet doors, the second for the countertops, the third for the backsplash, and the last for the floors. Generally, when designing the kitchen, the cabinet material, styling, and color are selected first, the countertop and flooring material second, the backsplash material, sinks and faucets, cabinet hardware, and lighting fixtures last. If you are using a cast-iron sink, you will be required to coordinate that color as well. (Paint and wallpaper are fairly easy and less critical since they can be changed more cheaply than the “built-in” materials.) Don’t make any final material selections until you have samples of all of the materials in front of you. If you have one strongly patterned material, such as the back- splash tile, select non-patterned counter material and flooring. You may use the same ceramic tile on floor and backsplash but not necessarily. LIGHTING Lighting the kitchen is often, unfortunately, an afterthought. Proper lighting in the kitchen is most important to avoid shadows, glare, dimness, and dark spots—not to mention being unable to see what you have in the pantry. There are two kinds of lighting to be considered in kitchen work areas: general illumination and task lighting. For general illumination, use ceiling fixtures to pro vide even, medium levels of light so that you can see into overhead cabinets and other shallow storage areas. These fixtures can be incandescent, providing a candlelike light, or fluorescent, pro viding a whiter-bluer glow. Many people prefer the softer light of the incandescent bulbs (called lamps or A lamps in the industry) in spite of the fact that they consume somewhat more electricity and produce more heat than their fluorescent counterparts. Fluorescent lights produce a shadowless, even light which many consider inappropriate for residential use outside of the kitchen. In recent years fluorescent technology has developed a number of tubes that attempt to imitate sunlight. The colors are much less blue than in traditional fluorescent tubes. Both types of fixtures can be either surface- mounted to the ceiling or recessed into the ceiling in the space between the joists. The recessed in candescent fixtures are popularly known as high hats and come in versions that take A lamps as well as R-type spots and floods. The recessed fluorescents aren't as readily available. Ceiling- mounted fixtures come in rounded domelike shapes or in squares and rectangles. Usually one multilamped incandescent or a single 2-square- foot fluorescent will provide enough general illumination for most kitchens. If the kitchen is particularly long or has side areas or recesses, you may want to use two or more smaller fixtures evenly spaced. Also consider using track lights in the kitchen. Don’t forget to place a simple fixture (a plain porcelain socket will do) on the inside of deep pantries and broom closets. When using incandescent ceiling fixtures, the amount of light can be controlled by using a dimmer or by selecting fixtures that take a spectrum of lamp sizes, say from 75 to 150 watts. Task lighting provides a more intense light directly on countertops. The source of the illumination, which takes the form of long color-corrected fluorescent tubes or long mini-lamped fixtures, is concealed on the underside of the hung cabinets. Next: Completing the Design of the Bathroom |
