Basic Construction--Making Darts

Triangular folds fabric stitched to a point are called darts. They control fullness and give shape to fitted clothing. Darts should point to the fullest part of the body and end about 1 inch (2.5 cm) from the body curve to which they point. The two basic darts are single-pointed and double-pointed.

STITCHING DARTS

The following four basic steps produce single pointed darts:

1. Fold the dart with right sides of the fabric together, matching stitching lines. Place one pin exactly at the point and other pins at the small dot markings.

2. Stitch from the wide end of the dart to the point. See Fgr. 1.

3. Stitch the last two or three stitches as close to the fold line as possible. This creates a sharp point without any bubbles. Don't backstitch because it can cause puckering at the point.

4. Tie the thread ends in a knot or simply leave 1-inch (2.5-cm) thread ends, which won't pull out. See Fgr. 2.

For double-pointed darts, start at the center and stitch to each point. Overlap stitching lines in the center about 1 inch (2.5 cm). Make one or more clips in the dart along the fold so it can be flat. See Fgr. 3.

Sewing a Dart 1

Threads on Dart 2

Double-Pointed Dart 3

Pressing Directions on Darts 4

== Wiki Sewing ==

Hand Sewing

Many things can't be sewn by machine, and even if the machine can sew it, hand stitching will, in some instances, give you a better finished result. Hand sewing allows you to have control over hiding stitches when you sew hems and many types of fasteners. Secure stitches are necessary to hold fasteners in place and to have sewing that will hold up to laundering.

• Thread a Needle
• Double or Single Thread
• Knot the Thread
• Hand Basting/Running Stitch
• Backstitch
• Slipstitch
• Catch-Stitch
• Blind Stitch
• Chain Stitch
• Thread Chains
• Buttonhole Stitch/Blanket Stitch
• End Hand Stitches

Thread a Needle

For many people, threading a needle is the biggest challenge there is in hand sewing.

It doesn't have to be! There are gadgets and tricks to get the job done easily without breaking a sweat.

1. Cut the end of the thread at an angle with sharp scissors.

2. Using a needle threader, push the wire of a needle threader through the eye of the needle. Insert the end of the thread into the wire loop. Then pull the wire loop and thread back out of the eye of the needle.

TIP --- Floppy Thread: Thread that's limp can be difficult to guide through the eye of the needle. Coat the thread with beeswax (available in notions departments) to give it enough stiffness to control the thread.

<<== Wiki Sewing cont. ==>>

PRESSING DARTS

Always press a dart before crossing it with another seam. Horizontal darts are pressed with the fold downward. Vertical darts are pressed with the fold toward center front or center back.

See Fgr. 4.

TIP: Darts. Never use a serger to stitch darts. You can't get a smooth, tapered-to nothing point with a serger stitch.

1. Press the dart flat, as stitched. See Fgr. 5.

Pressing Dart Flat 5

2. Place the dart over a tailor's ham and press it to one side. See Fgr. 6.

Pressing Dart to the Side 6

Wide darts or darts in heavy fabric should be pressed open. Refer to your pattern guide sheet.

Slash the dart along the fold line to within 1 inch (2.5 cm) of the point. See Fgr. 7. Trim the slash to 1/2 inch (1.3 cm) from the stitching line. Press the dart flat, as stitched. Then press the trimmed edges open and press the point flat. See Fgr. 8.

Cutting Wide Dart along Fold 7

Pressing Wide Dart Open 8