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Trimming and smoothing, separately or together in the progression from rough work to final product, typically are performed after cutting operations and before finishing. Trimming techniques are exacting adjustments for removing relatively small amounts of material, usually to make a piece fit; a plane (ref. 80), a surface-forming tool or a file (ref. 87) should be used only when a cutting tool (ref. 42) is no longer effective. and while an abrasive often can be used to shave off tiny amounts of material for a perfect fit, smoothing in general is done after cutting and trimming on surfaces or edges that will be visible. To smooth the edge of a board, for instance, use a sanding block (ref. 91) or a file; although files also can be used on metal or plastic, keep separate sets. To remove paint, follow the techniques in Finishing (ref. 126) to take off most of it, then work with an abrasive to complete the job. Smoothing techniques are themselves a continuum, with each successive stage removing the imperfections left by the preceding stage. As a general rule, continue smoothing a surface or an edge until you achieve the results you desire; avoid over-smoothing wood in particular, however, which can raise the fibers and leave it rough or close the pores and reduce the adherence of a finish to it. After using a belt sander (ref. 95), follow up with an orbital sander (ref. 92), starting with sandpaper of the same grit as the last sanding belt you used; provide the piece with a final sanding using a sanding block if finishing is the next step. Consult the abrasives chart (ref. 90) to help you choose the right grit of sandpaper to start, continuing with it until the surface or edge is uniformly smooth and then proceeding to a finer grit to remove the imperfections left by it. Bench plane: Used to trim long wood edges; jack, smoothing and jointer types most common. Retract cutting iron before storing. Block plane: Standard type best for trimming wood edges too short for bench plane; low-angle type best for trimming end grain and edges of plywood or composition board. Retract cutting iron before storing. Sanding block: Holds sandpaper flat for smoothing wood surfaces and edges. Available in different styles; can be made of metal, rubber or cork. Homemade types using wood blocks or dowels can be customized. Belt sander: Power sander used on wood surfaces for removing material or smoothing. Models usually identified by size of sanding belt; 3-by-21” and 3-by-24” types most common for home use. Use of dust bag recommended. Surface-forming tool: For trimming wood, plywood, composition board, plastic or drywall; best for fast, rough removing of material. Available in different styles; model shown is block-plane type. Used to trim or smooth flat and convex edges of wood, plastic or metal. Available with rasp-cut teeth for heavy removing of wood. Orbital sander: Power sander best used on wood surfaces for intermediate or final smoothing; sandpaper fits over rubber pad that oscillates; Avail. in different sizes; some models come with a dust bag. Used to trim or smooth wood, plastic or metal: round face for concave edges; flat face for use as flat file. Available with rasp-cut teeth for heavy removing of wood. Abrasive paper: Also known as sandpaper; used to smooth wood by abrasion. Commonly available in 9-by-11” sheets in a wide range of grits. Keep a variety of grits on hand; store flat in a dry place. Bench brush: Soft-bristled brush used to clean off particles during smoothing—especially before changing to finer-grit abrasive. Used to trim or smooth concave edges of wood, plastic or metal too tight for half-round file. Available with rasp-cut teeth for heavy removing of wood. Waterstone and guide: Waterstone used to sharpen cutting iron of bench or block plane; coarse side for grinding, smooth side for honing. Available in different grits; 250-1000 grit combination model is usually sufficient. Grinding and honing guide used to hold cutting iron of plane at correct angle for grinding or honing on waterstone. File card: Used for cleaning files before, during and after the job; some models equipped with extra brush on the back for cleaning fine-toothed files. To choose the most appropriate trimming or smoothing tool for the job, refer to the inventory presented in the Troubleshooting Guide (below), checking the section on the type of material you are using. In general, any power tool is recommended only for large workpieces due to the set-up time that can be involved. Proper preparation and accuracy are essential to a quality trimming or smoothing job. Read the section on Setting up To Work (ref. 14) to determine the best way to secure your workpiece; planing it, for instance, is virtually impossible unless it's immovable. Consult Measuring and Marking (ref. 30) to measure and mark precisely; when trimming, closely watch any cutting lines for a result tailored to the specifications for the job. Practice using any trimming or smoothing tool on a scrap piece of your workpiece material before using it on the workpiece. Safety in the workshop is an important part of any trimming or smoothing task; work carefully and wear the safety gear (ref. 25) recommended for the job: safety goggles to keep particles out of your eyes; respiratory protection to prevent breathing in harmful particles or dusts; and hearing protection with a noisy power tool such as a belt sander. Some materials that may have sharp edges or be chemically-treated—such as wood that is pressure-treated with preservatives—require skin protection when you handle them; as a rule, wear work gloves if you have any safety concerns about the material being used. If you are using a power sander, inspect it first and repair it, if necessary. Consult your owner’s manual for instructions on its safe use; choose only the accessories recommended and work slowly and carefully, keeping your fingers away from any moving parts. TROUBLESHOOTING GUIDE PROBLEM | PROCEDURE WOOD Removing large amount of material from an edge For a long, flat edge, use a bench plane to trim equal or unequal amount; or, use a surface-forming tool For a short, flat edge, use a block plane to trim equal or unequal amount or end grain; use a surface-forming tool; or, use a flat or half-round file to cross-file For a contoured edge, use a surface-forming tool; it concave, use a half-round or round file to cross-file; or, if convex, use a flat or half-round file to cross-file Removing small amount of material from an edge For a long, flat edge, use a bench plane to trim equal or unequal amount For a short, flat edge, use a block plane to trim equal or unequal amount or end grain; or, use a flat or half-round file to cross-file For a contoured edge: if concave, use a halt-round or round file to cross-file; or, if convex, use a flat or half-round file to cross-file Removing material from a surface Remove material from surface using a belt sander Smoothing an edge Use a tile to draw-file; sand edge using a sanding block Smoothing a surface For a large surface, sand using a belt sander, then sand using an orbital sander; if necessary, then sand using a sanding block For a small surface, sand using a sanding block Rounding an edge Round edge using a sanding block METAL Removing material from an edge For a flat edge, use a flat or half-round file to cross-file For a contoured edge: if concave, use a half-round or round file to cross-file; or, if convex, use a flat or halt-round file to cross-tile Smoothing an edge Use a file to draw-file Deburring an edge Use a file to deburr metal edge PLASTIC Removing large amount of material from an edge Use a surface-forming tool Removing small amount of material from an edge For a flat edge, use a flat or half-round file to cross-file For a contoured edge: if concave, use a halt-round or round file to cross-tile; or, it convex, use a flat or half-round file to cross-file Smoothing an edge Use a file to draw-file DRYWALL Removing material from an edge | Use a surface-forming tool CHOOSING and PREPARING TO USE A PLANE 1 Choosing and inspecting a plane. Choose the right plane for the job. For work on most wood edges more than 12 inches long, use a bench plane. For work on wood edges up to 12 inches long, on end grain, or on plywood or composition board, use a block plane—with its more suitable low cutting angle. Inspect a bench plane or a block plane before using it. Tighten any loose handle or knob screws. Service the cutting iron of the bench plane (ref. 81) or the block plane (ref. 82) if it's nicked, rusty or otherwise damaged, as well as to remove any clogged wood chips. To lubricate the threads of the depth adjustment screw or the locking lever, apply a small amount of light machine oil. Check also that the sole of the plane is clean and undamaged. To clean off gum, pitch or glue, wear work gloves (ref. 25) and use steel wool dampened with mineral spirits; remove rust using steel wool dampened with light machine oil. If there are burrs on the sole, use a file (ref. 87) to deburr it (ref. 89). Before storing a plane, apply a thin film of light machine oil to the sole; before using a plane you have stored, wipe the sole with a soft cloth. 2 Adjusting the cutting iron. To adjust the depth and the lateral position of the cutting iron on a bench plane, hold the plane upside down under a good source of light. Sighting along the sole from the heel or the toe of the plane, turn the depth adjustment knob (above left) until the cutting edge of the cutting iron projects slightly from the mouth; it should be just barely visible. Then, move the lateral adjustment lever until the cutting edge of the cutting iron is aligned squarely within the mouth. Check the depth of the cutting iron; readjust it, if necessary. If the depth or lateral position of the cutting iron can't be adjusted properly, check that the bench plane is assembled correctly (ref. 81). To adjust the depth and the lateral position of the cutting iron on a block plane, follow the owner’s manual instructions. On the block plane shown, adjust the depth of the cutting iron the same way as on a bench plane; its cutting edge should project slightly from the mouth and be just barely visible. To adjust the lateral position of the cutting iron, loosen the locking lever and move the cutting iron by hand until its cutting edge is aligned squarely within the mouth, then tighten the locking lever. Check the depth of the cutting iron; readjust it, if necessary. If the depth or lateral position of the cutting iron can't be adjusted properly, check that the block plane is assembled correctly (ref. 82). Bench plane: Toe Block plane: Toe; iron; Depth adjustment knob; Heel SERVICING THE CUTTING IRON (BENCH PLANE) 1. Disassembling the bench plane. To disassemble the bench plane, follow the owner’s manual instructions. On the bench plane shown, release the locking lever, then slide the lever cap up and over the lever cap screw. Carefully lift the double irons (the cutting iron and the cap iron) out of the plane and set them down gently on a flat surface; avoid cutting yourself on the cutting edge of the cutting iron or hitting it against a hard surface. 2 Inspecting and cleaning the cutting iron. Inspect the cutting iron closely; its cut ting edge should be clean, smooth and sharp. To test the cutting iron for sharpness, drag the tip of a fingernail very lightly along its cutting edge; your fingernail should catch rather than slide easily. If the cutting edge of the cutting iron is clean, smooth and sharp, check that the double irons are aligned correctly and adjust them, if necessary (step 3). Otherwise, take the double irons apart. First, loosen the screw of the cap iron with a screwdriver, then turn the cutting iron perpendicular to the cap iron and slide it along the screw until it can be lifted off; note its orientation for reassembly. To remove a small nick, grind the cutting iron (ref. 82); for a nick wider than 1/32 inch, take the cutting iron for professional regrinding. To sharpen the cutting iron, hone it (ref. 82); also grind it if it has already been honed several times. To clean gum, pitch or glue off the cutting iron, wear work gloves (ref. 25) and use steel wool dampened with mineral spirits; to remove rust, use steel wool dampened with light machine oil. Reassemble the double irons, reversing the procedure used to take them apart. 3 Adjusting the double irons. Check that the double irons are aligned correctly; the cutting edge of the cutting iron should extend 1/16” from and parallel to the edge of the cap iron with the sides of the irons perfectly flush against each other. If necessary, loosen the screw of the cap iron using a screwdriver with a large flat-tipped blade, then align the double irons. Holding the double irons aligned, lighten the screw of the cap iron securely. 4 Reassembling the bench plane. To reassemble the bench plane, turn the depth adjustment knob to the midpoint of its travel and center the lateral adjustment lever. With the cap iron facing upward, position the double irons into the plane, fitting them over the lever cap screw. Check that the slot of the double irons is seated correctly over the depth adjustment dog; the double irons should shift as the lateral adjustment lever is moved. Reinstall the lever cap, sliding it down over the lever cap screw, then close the locking lever. If the locking lever can't be closed, remove the lever cap and the double irons to reposition them; if it still can't be closed, loosen the lever cap screw slightly and try again. If the locking lever closes too easily, tighten the lever cap screw slightly and try again. When the locking lever is closed tightly, adjust the depth and lateral position of the cutting iron (ref. 80). Double irons SERVICING THE CUTTING IRON (BLOCK PLANE) Removing, inspecting and reinstalling the cutting iron. To disassemble the block plane, follow the owner’s manual instructions. On the block plane shown, release the locking lever, then slide the lever cap up and over the lever cap screw. Carefully lift the cutting iron out of the plane to inspect it; note its orientation for reassembly. The cutting edge of the cuffing iron should be clean, smooth and sharp. To test the cutting edge for sharpness, drag the tip of a fingernail very lightly along it; your fingernail should catch rather than slide easily. To remove a small nick, grind the cutting iron (steps below); for a nick wider than 1/32 inch, take the cutting iron for professional regrinding. To sharpen the cutting iron, hone it (steps below); also grind it if it has already been honed several times. To clean off gum, pitch or glue, wear work gloves (ref. 25) and use steel wool dampened with mineral spirits; to remove rust, use steel wool dampened with light machine oil. To reassemble the block plane, turn the depth adjustment knob to the midpoint of its travel. Position the cutting iron into the plane, fitting it over the lever cap screw; its cutting edge should be aligned and centered in the mouth with one slot seated securely on the depth adjustment dog. Reinstall the lever cap, sliding it down over the lever cap screw, then close the locking lever. If the locking lever can't be closed, take off the lever cap and the cutting iron to reposition them; if it still can't be closed, loosen the lever cap screw slightly and try again. If the locking lever closes too easily, tighten the lever cap screw slightly and try again. When the locking lever is closed tightly, adjust the depth and lateral position of the cutting iron (ref. 80). GRINDING and HONING THE CUTTING IRON 1 Lapping the cutting iron. To grind or hone a cutting iron, use a combination waterstone such as a 250-1000 grit model. Soak the waterstone in water for 5 minutes, then set it down on a rubber mat on a work surface; keep the coarse 250-grit surface face up for grinding, the fine 1000-grit surface face up for honing. Before grinding or honing the cutting iron, set the back of it on the waterstone to lap it. Gripping the cutting iron by its sides with one hand and pressing it flat with your other hand, draw it across the waterstone, stopping before its cutting edge reaches the edge. Lift the cuffing iron and lap the back of it again several times, then turn it over. Set up a grinding and honing guide for the cutting iron (step 2) or support the cutting iron by hand to grind or hone it (step 3). 2 Setting up a grinding and honing guide. Buy a grinding and honing guide, then follow the manufacturer’s instructions to install the cuffing iron at the correct angle in it. On the guide shown, markings indicate the distance to extend the cutting iron for the angle desired. Set the cutting iron in the guide with the bevel of the cutting edge facing it; using a ruler to measure, extend the cuffing iron the distance necessary and tighten the clamping screw. Set the guide on a flat surface; if the bevel of the cutting edge does not sit even, adjust the cutting iron. 3 Grinding and honing the cutting iron. To grind the cut ting iron, set the bevel of its cutting edge on the 250-grit surface of the waterstone. If you are using a guide, control its movement with your thumbs and press the bevel of the cutting edge flat against the surface with your index fingers. If you are not using a guide, grip the cutting iron by its sides with one hand and press the bevel of the cutting edge flat against the surface with your other hand. Draw the cutting iron across the water- stone, stopping before the cutting edge reaches the edge of it. Lift the cutting iron and grind it again, continuing until any nick is removed and a thin line of metal is raised along the cutting edge. Stop periodically to splash water onto the waterstone; rinse it to remove accumulated grit. To remove the thin line of raised metal, turn over the cutting iron and lap the back again (step 1). To hone the cutting iron, follow the same procedure used to grind it, working with the 1000-grit face of the waterstone. Continue honing the cutting iron until the angle between the bevel of the cutting edge and the back of the cutting iron is uniform and barely visible. Stop periodically to examine the cutting edge under a bright light and to test it for sharpness, dragging the tip of a fingernail very lightly along it. If your fingernail slides easily rather than catching, continue honing. After honing the cutting iron, also grind it if it has already been honed several times. If honing does not sharpen the cutting edge, take the cutting iron for professional regrinding. Otherwise, reinstall the cutting iron in the bench plane or the block plane. PREPARING TO PLANE Determining the best direction to plane. Trim end grain with a block plane (ref. 86). Otherwise, plan to set up your workpiece using the grain pattern of the surface adjacent to the edge to be planed in determining the best direction to plane. As a general rule, position the workpiece with the edge to be planed facing upward horizontally; otherwise, leave the workpiece in place With the workpiece positioned, examine the grain pattern along the surface adjacent to the edge to be planed; the diagram shows several typical grain patterns with arrows indicating the best direction to plane. To prevent the cutting edge of the plane from catching the grain and tearing or roughening the wood, always plane in the ‘uphill” grain direction. On a workpiece, the “uphill” grain direction may change, requiring a change in the direction to plane; or, it may be consistently horizontal, allowing a choice in the direction to plane. After determining the best direction to plane, set up the workpiece on a work surface, measuring and marking cutting lines on it, if necessary; orient it for comfort able, easy access to the edge to be planed in the best direction to plane. On a workpiece with different “uphill” grain directions, work from both sides of it or turn it around to maintain comfortable, easy access to the edge to be planed in the best direction to plane. When the workpiece is set up, choose and prepare to use a plane (ref. 80), then ensure you know how to use it properly to work horizontally or vertically. Using a plane horizontally. To use a bench plane or a block plane for horizontal strokes, maintain a well-balanced stance; keep your feet apart and your shoulders over the edge you are planing. Hold the plane with both hands, placing your non-dominant hand in front on the knob and your dominant hand in back: on the handle of a bench plane; on the lever cap of a block plane. Always work in the best direction to plane (ref. 83) and keep the sole of the plane centered on the edge. To start a stroke at the end of an edge, position the plane level with the edge and rest the toe of the sole flat on it—without the cutting iron of the bench plane (far left, top) or the block plane (near left, top) touching it. Pressing down firmly with the hand in front to keep the sole flat on the edge, use the hand in back to push the plane forward for a full cutting stroke; apply only forward pressure on the handle of the bench plane or the lever cap of the block plane to start, then apply equal downward pressure with both hands to keep the sole flat as soon as most of it's on the edge. To start a stroke away from the end of an edge, position the plane on the edge and push it forward for a full cutting stroke, constantly applying equal downward pressure with both hands. To continue the stroke, maintain your balanced stance and lean forward, using the momentum of your upper body as much as the strength of your arms to achieve a smooth, even cut with the plane. Move with the plane alongside the workpiece, if necessary, rather than trying to overextend your reach with it along the edge. To finish the stroke at the end of the edge, continue applying equal downward pressure with both hands until the toe of the sole leaves the edge, then reduce it in front on the knob and maintain it in back: on the handle of the bench plane (left, center); on the lever cap of the block plane. As soon as the cutting iron leaves the edge, lift the plane smoothly and without stopping, returning it for another stroke in a circular motion. To finish the stroke before the end of the edge, continue applying equal downward pressure with both hands until your arms are fully extended, then lift the plane smoothly and without stopping the same way (left, bottom). Repeat the procedure as many times as necessary to trim the edge of the workpiece, moving to the other side of it or turning it around as required to plane in the best direction. If the cutting iron of the plane catches, cuts poorly or cuts off more than a thin shaving, adjust it (ref. 80); if the problem persists, service the cutting iron of the bench plane (ref. 81) or the block plane (ref. 82). When you stop planing, protect’ the cutting iron by setting the plane down on its side—not on its sole. Using a plane vertically. To use a bench plane or a block plane for vertical strokes, hold it with both hands, placing your dominant hand in back: on the handle of a bench plane; on the lever cap of a block plane. Always work in the best direction to plane (ref. 83) and keep the sole of the plane centered on the edge. To start at the end of an edge, align the plane and rest the toe of the sole flat on it (far left). Pressing firmly into the edge with the hand in front to keep the sole flat, use the hand in back to push the plane; apply equal pressure with both hands into the edge as soon as most of the sole is on it. To start away from the end of an edge, align the plane on the edge and push it, constantly applying equal pressure with both hands into the edge. To finish before the end of the edge, continue until your arms are fully extended, then lift the plane away smoothly and without stopping (near left). To finish at the end of the edge, reduce pressure into the edge in front as soon as the toe of the sole leaves the edge, then lift the plane away the same way. Move yourself or the workpiece as necessary to repeat the procedure. If the cutting iron catches, cuts poorly or cuts off more than a thin shaving, adjust it (ref. 80); if the problem persists, service the cutting iron of the bench plane (ref. 81) or the block plane (ref. 82). Protect the cutting iron when you stop by setting the plane down on its side—not on its sole. TRIMMING WITH A PLANE Trimming an equal amount off an edge. Trim end grain with a block plane (ref. 86). Otherwise, determine the best direction to plane (ref. 83) and set up the workpiece on a work surface (ref. 17), measuring and marking (ref. 30) cutting lines on each side of it. Choose and prepare to use a plane (ref. 80), then use it horizontally (ref. 84) or vertically to trim an equal amount of material off the edge up to about 1/8” from the cut ting lines. Stop periodically to check your progress, marking areas where you have cut off enough to avoid trimming them farther. To trim the last 1/8” of material off the edge, change the position of the hand in front and use the plane the same way. Pressing firmly into the edge in front with your thumb, slide your fingers lightly along an adjacent surface under the sole to keep a sense of its position and angle. If the cutting iron catches, cuts poorly or cuts off more than a thin shaving, adjust it (ref. 80); if the problem persists, service the cutting iron of the bench plane (ref. 81) or the block plane (ref. 82). Stop periodically to check your progress, measuring the angle between the edge and the adjacent surfaces (ref. 30). To correct any deviation, use the fingers of your hand in front to raise the sole off the low side of the edge , keeping it at the proper angle. Continue trimming the same way until you reach the cutting lines. Store your tools and clean up (ref. 27). Trimming an unequal amount off an edge. Trim end grain with a block plane (ref. 86). Otherwise, determine the best direction to plane (ref. 83) and set up the workpiece on a work surface (ref. 17), measuring and marking (ref. 30) cutting lines on each side of it. Choose and prepare to use a plane (ref. 80), then use it horizontally (ref. 84) or vertically (ref. 85) to trim an unequal amount of material off the edge up to about 1/8” from the cutting lines Start trimming where the most material needs to be cut, using short strokes at first (left, top), then gradually longer strokes to keep trimming parallel to the cutting lines (left, bottom). If the cutting iron catches, cuts poorly or cuts off more than a thin shaving, adjust it (ref. 80); if the problem persists, service the cutting iron of the bench plane (ref. 81) or the block plane (ref. 82). Stop periodically to check your progress, marking areas where you have cut off enough to avoid trimming them farther. To trim the last 1/8” of material off the edge, use the plane horizontally or vertically as you would to trim an equal amount of material off any edge (ref. 85). Store your tools and clean up (ref. 27). Trimming end grain. Set up the workpiece on a work surface (ref. 17) with the end to be trimmed facing upward, if possible; to keep from tearing or splintering the wood, secure a wood block along one side flush with the end to be trimmed and plan to plane toward it. If the workpiece is long, as in the instance shown, set it up with the end to be trimmed overhanging the work surface; to secure the wood block, use a pipe clamp, as shown, or C clamps (ref. 124). Measure and mark (ref. 30) cutting lines on each side of the workpiece; plan to start trimming where the most material needs to be cut. Prepare to use a block plane (ref. 80). If the end to be trimmed is facing upward, use the plane horizontally as you would for any edge, applying greater downward pressure (ref. 84). Otherwise, hold the plane by the sides with one hand, your palm in back on the lever cap and your forefinger in front just behind or on the knob. To start at the edge, align the plane and rest the toe of the sole flat on the end. Pressing firmly into the end in front to keep the sole flat, push the plane toward the wood block; apply uniform pressure into the end as soon as most of the sole is on it. To start away from the edge, align the plane on the end and push it, constantly applying uniform pressure into the end. To finish before the edge of the wood block, lift the plane away smoothly and without stop ping. To finish at the edge of the wood block, reduce pressure into the end in front as soon as the toe of the sole leaves the edge, then lift the plane away the same way. If the cutting iron catches or cuts poorly, plane toward the wood block at an angle using short strokes. If the problem persists, adjust the cutting iron (ref. 80); if it still persists, service the cutting iron (ref. 82). Protect the cutting iron when you stop by setting the plane down on its side—not on its sole. Continue trimming the same way until you reach the cutting lines. Store your tools and clean up (ref. 27). Cutting line USING A SURFACE-FORMING TOOL 1. Preparing to use a surface-forming tool. Check a surface- forming tool before using it. If the blade is dull or damaged, follow the manufacturer’s instructions to replace it. On the model shown, loosen the clamp screw enough to lift off the blade. Install a new blade with the teeth oriented toward the toe of the tool, hooking it in place and tightening the clamp screw. Use a stiff-bristled brush to remove shavings from the blade. To clean gum, pitch or glue off the blade, use a clean cloth dampened with mineral spirits; to remove rust, wear work gloves (ref. 25) and use steel wool. 2 Trimming an edge. Set up the workpiece on a work surface (ref. 17); if necessary, measure and mark (ref. 30) cutting lines on each side of it. Hold the surface-forming tool with both hands, your dominant hand on the heel. For fast, rough trimming of material, position the tool flat on the edge at a 45-degree angle to it. Pressing into the edge with both hands, push the tool along it. For smoother trimming of material, gradually shift the angle of the tool, moving its toe and heel closer to the edge. For final trimming of material, center the tool on the edge. Store your tools and clean up (ref. 27). PREPARING TO USE A FILE Single-cut teeth: Best for fine draw, filing of wood, plastic or metal; also for fine deburring of metal. Double-cut teeth: Best for rough cross-filing of wood, plastic or metal; also for rough deburring of metal. Rasp-cut teeth: Used for rough cross-filing of wood; can remove large amount of material quickly. Toe, Face; Tang, Heel, Tooth patterns, Handle Choosing a file. Choose the correct file for the job. Refer to this section to choose a file of an appropriate shape: a flat type for flat or convex edges; a half-round type for flat or convex edges (flat-faced portion) or concave edges (round-faced portion); or a round type for tight concave edges. Use a half-round or round file that matches the curve of the edge as closely is possible. To choose a file with an appropriate tooth pattern, consult the diagram. ‘be tooth patterns shown are usually available in three grades of coarseness: bastard cut for he fastest, roughest filing of material; second cut for finer filing of material; and smooth cut r the finest filing of material. A long file typically has proportionately larger, coarser teeth than a small file. In general, use a bastard-cut file for soft material; its coarse teeth are least prone to clogging. Use a smooth-cut file on hard material; its fine teeth are least prone to gouging. Always use a handle with a file—for safety and control. To install the handle, push he file tang into its hole; then, hold the handle with the file upright and rap the bottom of it sharply on a sturdy surface until the file is securely in place. To remove the handle, grip the file firmly and tap the ferrule of the handle using a wood block. Cleaning a file. Before, periodically during and after using a file, clean filings out of its teeth with a file card or a wire brush. To use a file card, scrub across the file along the rows of teeth, keeping the wires of the brush parallel to them; use a wire brush the same way. To remove any stub born filings, use a small nail. To help decrease the accumulation of filings, rub chalk over the file teeth after cleaning them; never oil the file. Store your files separately in a drawer with dividers, inside a tool roll or wrapped in a cloth. USING A FILE Cross-filing a flat edge. Set up the workpiece on a work surface, if possible (ref. 17); if necessary, measure and mark cutting lines on each side of it. Prepare to use a file (ref. 87); if you are working with metal, wear work gloves (ref. 25). If the workpiece is too small to set up securely, use a flat filing technique on the edge, setting the file flat on the work surface with the handle overhanging it. Holding the handle, position the edge flat on the file at the toe, then pull the workpiece straight along the face , applying enough uniform pressure into it to cut the material. When the workpiece reaches the heel, lift it away smoothly and without stopping, returning it to continue, if necessary. If the file does not cut off enough material, position the edge diagonally across it and pull the workpiece straight along its face the same way. To further smooth a wood edge, use a sanding block (ref. 91). Otherwise, hold the file by the handle in one hand and by the toe in the other hand to work across the edge from one end to the other end of it. To start a stroke, position the toe of the file flat on the edge diagonally across it, orienting the toe in the direction you are working. Keeping the file flat, push it straight across the edge, applying enough uniform pressure into the edge to cut the material. When the - heel of the file reaches the edge at the end of the stroke, lift the file away smoothly and without stopping in a circular motion. Continue filing the same way, overlapping each stroke slightly. If the file rides over rather than cuts the material, clean it (ref. 87). Then, file along the edge diagonally across it the same way, orienting the heel in the direction you are working (ghosted file). For a fine-finished edge, draw-file (ref. 89). Otherwise, store your tools and clean up (ref. 27). Cross-filing a concave edge. Set up the workpiece on a work surface (ref. 17); if necessary, measure and mark cutting lines on each side of it. Prepare to use a file (ref. 87); if you are working with metal, wear work gloves (ref. 25). Holding the file by the handle in one hand and by the toe in the other hand, work across and along the edge at the same time from one end to the other end of it. To start a stroke, position the toe of the file flat on the edge at a 90-degree angle across it. Keeping the file flat, push it simultaneously across and along the edge, turning it back and forth slightly and applying enough uniform pressure into the edge to cut the material; if you are using a round file, let the toe turn fully in your hand. When the heel of the file reaches the edge at the end of the stroke (ghosted file), lift the file away smoothly and without stopping in a circular motion. Continue filing the same way, overlapping each stroke slightly. If the file rides over rather than cuts the material, clean it (ref. 87). For a fine-finished edge, draw-file (ref. 89). Otherwise, store your tools and clean up (ref. 27). Cross-filing a convex edge. Set up the workpiece on a work surface (ref. 17); if necessary, measure and mark cutting lines on each side of it. Prepare to use a file (ref. 87); if you are working with metal, wear work gloves (ref. 25). Holding the file by the handle in one hand and by the toe in the other hand, work across and along the edge at the same time from one end to the other end of it. To start a stroke, position the toe of the file flat on the edge at a 90-degree angle across it. Keeping the file flat, push it simultaneously across and along the edge, applying enough uniform pressure into the edge to cut the material. When the heel of the file reaches the edge at the end of the stroke (ghosted file), lift the file away smoothly and without stopping in a circular motion. Continue filing the same way, overlapping each stroke slightly. If the file rides over rather than cuts the material, clean it (ref. 87). For a fine-finished edge, draw-file (ref. 89). Other wise, store your tools and clean up (ref. 27). Draw-filing. Set up the workpiece on a work surface (ref. 17) and prepare to use a file (ref. 87); if you are working with metal, wear work gloves (ref. 25). Holding the file by the handle in one hand and by the toe in the other hand, work straight along the edge from one end to the other end of it. To start a stroke, position the toe of the file flat on the edge at a 90-degree angle across one end of it. Keeping the file flat, push it straight along the edge, applying enough uniform pressure into the edge to cut the material. When the file reaches the other end of the edge at the end of the stroke, pull it straight back smoothly and without stopping. Continue filing the same way, using a different part of the face to prevent it from clogging. If the file rides over rather than cuts the material, clean it (ref. 87). To further smooth a wood edge, use a sanding block (ref. 91). Otherwise, store your tools and clean up (ref. 27). Deburring a metal edge. Set up the workpiece on a work surface (ref. 17) with the burred edge facing upward and overhanging the work surface. Prepare to use a file (ref. 87), choosing a single-cut type for fine deburring of tools; a double-cut type otherwise. Wearing work gloves (ref. 25), hold the file by the handle in one hand and by the toe in the other hand. To start a stroke, position the file across the edge at a 45-degree angle to it. Keeping the file in position, push it straight across the edge, applying enough uniform pressure into the edge to cut the material; if you are deburring the inside of a pipe or tube with a round file, hold it by the handle and turn it as you push it. When the heel of the file reaches the edge at the end of the stroke, lift it away smoothly and without stopping. Continue filing the same way, overlap ping each stroke slightly. If the file rides over rather than cuts the material, clean it (ref. 87). Store your tools and clean up (ref. 27). CHOOSING AN ABRASIVE ABRASIVES Steel wool Grade Uses Medium fine 110 (0) General smoothing of most materials; removing rust or finish. Very fine 2/0 (00) De-glossing of finish. Extra fine 3/0 (000) Removing of paint spots; polishing of metal. Super fine 4,0 (0000) Smoothing of finish; fine polishing of metal. Choosing the right abrasive for the job. To choose an abrasive appropriate to the material and task, refer to the chart; presented are types of sandpaper for use on wood and steel wool for use primarily on wood, metal or plastic. Sandpaper is usually identified by its coarseness, expressed as grit or grade; depending on the manufacturer, it may be named differently. In general, judge the condition of the surface to choose the sandpaper of the coarsest grit you need to start, then progress to successively finer grits. Of the various types of grit available, flint is the least durable—best used for rough sanding or removing paint. Garnet is recommended for hand-sanding; aluminum oxide or silicon carbide for machine-sanding. For rough work, soft wood or removing paint, use an open-coat type; its dispersed grit is least prone to clogging. For fine work, hard wood or hand- sanding, use a closed-coat type; its dense grit cuts quickly. The weight of backing material ranges from A (lightest) to E (sturdiest) for paper; for cloth, X is sturdier than J. Steel wool is identified by grade. Choose the steel wool of the grade you need for the job; wear work gloves (ref. 25) to rub the surface with it. For an irregular-shaped surface, mold the steel wool to match its contours. PREPARING TO USE A SANDING BLOCK Changing sandpaper. To sand a flat or convex surface, buy a sanding block; or, use a small wood block, gluing a thick piece of felt or cork onto the bottom of it for padding. For a concave surface, use a wood dowel as a sanding stick. Choose a grit of sandpaper, then determine the size of sheet you need; a manufactured sanding block typically can hold a 1/4-sheet of sandpaper. To change the sandpaper on the sanding block shown, loosen the screw and lift the handle off the base. Remove any old sandpaper, then use scissors or a utility knife and straightedge to trim a new sheet of sandpaper to size: as long and as wide as the base with enough over lap for it to be held snugly in place by the handle. Wrap the sandpaper around the bottom of the base, folding the edges over the top of it, then reposition the handle and tighten the screw. For a homemade sanding block, trim a sheet of sandpaper as wide as it and long enough to wrap around it snugly with a bit of overlap on the top to hold while sanding. For a sanding stick, trim a sheet of sandpaper to fit snugly around the dowel with a bit of overlap, then use masking tape to secure the edges to it. Fine Moderate to light removing of material or thick layers of paint; preliminary smoothing; leveling of deep depressions and scratches; smoothing with belt sander. 150 180 4/0 5/0 Final smoothing before applying paint; light sanding between coats of paint. Very fine: 220 6/0 Final smoothing before applying clear finish; light sanding 240 7/0 between coats of clear finish. Extra fine: 280 8/0 Fine sanding to remove air bubbles between coats of clear 320 9/0 finish. USING A SANDING BLOCK Sanding the surface of a board. Set up the workpiece on a work surface (ref. 17), securing it by hand, if desired. Prepare to use a sanding block (ref. 90). Holding the sanding block firmly in your hand, work parallel to the wood grain from one end to the other end of the surface. Position the sanding block flat on the surface and move it straight back and forth in long, smooth strokes, applying enough uniform pressure into the surface for the sandpaper to cut evenly; if the sandpaper cuts too deeply, reduce your pressure. To reposition the sanding block, lift it rather than sand across the wood grain, overlapping parallel strokes. If a leading edge of the sandpaper catches, lift the sanding block and turn it 90 degrees to sand with a secured edge. To prevent the rounding of an edge along the length of the surface, keep most of the sanding block flat on the surface, overhanging the edge by less than half its width (left, top). To prevent the rounding of an edge across the width of the surface, stop the sanding block before it leaves the surface, overhanging the edge by less than half its length (left, bottom). Stop sanding periodically to brush particles off the surface. To clear the sandpaper, tap an edge of the sanding block against a hard surface; if it's clogged, worn or torn, change it (ref. 90). Check your work at a low angle under a good light source; as well as your eyes, use your fingers. Change to a finer-grit sandpaper as necessary. When you finish sanding, store your tools and clean up (ref. 27). Sanding the edge of a board. Set up the workpiece on a work surface (ref. 17) with the edge facing upward, if possible. Prepare to use a sanding block (ref. 90). Holding the sanding block firmly by its sides in both hands, work from one end to the other end along the edge. Position the sanding block flat on the edge and move it straight back and forth in smooth strokes without tilting it; apply enough uniform pressure into the edge for the sandpaper to cut evenly. To avoid rounding an end of the edge, stop the sanding block before it leaves the edge, overhanging the end by less than half its length. Stop sanding periodically to brush particles off the edge. To clear the sand paper, tap an edge of the sanding block against a hard surface; if it's clogged, worn or torn, change it (ref. 90). Check your work at a low angle under a good light source; as well as your eyes, use your fingers. Change to a finer-grit sandpaper as necessary. When you finish sanding, store your tools and clean up (ref. 27). Rounding the edge of a board. Set up the workpiece on a work surface (ref. 17) and prepare to use a sanding block (ref. 90). Holding the sanding block firmly in your hand, work from one end to the other end along the edge. Position the sanding block at a 45-degree angle to the edge almost flat on an adjacent surface, then move it straight back and forth in long, smooth strokes; apply enough uniform pressure into the edge for the sandpaper to cut evenly. Keeping the sanding block at a 45-degree angle to the edge, raise it farther off the adjacent surface and repeat the procedure, continuing until it's almost flat on the other adjacent surface. Stop sanding periodically to brush particles off the edge. To clear the sandpaper, tap an edge of the sanding block against a hard surface; if it's clogged, worn or torn, change it (ref. 90). Check your work at a low angle under a good light source; as well as your eyes, use your fingers. Change to a finer-grit sandpaper as necessary. When you finish sanding, store your tools and clean up (ref. 27). PREPARING TO USE AN ORBITAL SANDER 1 Inspecting an orbital sander. Check an orbital sander before using it: with it unplugged, inspect its parts, consulting your owner’s manual. If the power cord or plug is loose or frayed or the handle, trigger switch or motor housing is cracked, don't use the sander until it's repaired. Tighten any loose screws. Empty any dust bag if it's more than half full, following the owner’s manual instructions; on the model shown, slide the intake up off the brackets , then unzip the dust bag and empty it. If there is a hole in the dust bag, repair it with duct tape or buy a replacement. Zip up the dust bag and fit the intake into the brackets. Check also that the sander is clean. If the handle is greasy, wipe it using a soft cloth dampened with a solution of mild household detergent and water; don't wet any internal parts. Use a stiff-bristled brush to remove any caked dust; on surfaces difficult to reach, wear safety goggles (ref. 25) and use compressed air. 2 Changing sandpaper. Ensuring the sander is unplugged, follow the owner’s manual instructions to change the sandpaper if it's clogged, worn, torn or the wrong grit for the job. On the model shown, pull out the lever of a release clamp, then center it and pull it up to free one end of the old sandpaper; use the same procedure at the other end of the platen. If the pad on the bottom of the platen is glazed.; roughen it slightly with fine sandpaper; if it's damaged, have it replaced Choose a grit of sandpaper (ref. 90), then use scissors or a utility knife and straightedge to trim the sheet to the size specified by the manufacturer. Holding up the lever of a release clamp, fold one end of the sandpaper over the edge of the platen, then release the lever and push it back into place under the housing. Ensuring the sandpaper is flush with the sides of the pad, pull the other end of it snugly to the other end of the platen and install it the same way. USING AN ORBITAL SANDER Sanding the surface of a board. Set up the workpiece on a work surface (ref. 17), then prepare to use an orbital sander (steps above). Wearing safety goggles (ref. 25) and respiratory protection (ref. 26), plug in the sander (ref. 24) using an extension cord, if necessary (ref. 23). Ensuring the power cord is out of the way, grip the sander firmly with both hands and lift it, then depress the trigger switch. When the sander is running at full speed, gently set it down flat on the surface—and immediately move it slowly, working back and forth along or from side to side across the surface in long, smooth, overlapping strokes; on a small surface, use a circular motion. Let the weight of the sander provide the uniform pressure into the surface for the sand paper to cut evenly; never let the sander rest on one spot. Depress any trigger lock, if desired; to release it, depress the trigger switch. To prevent the rounding of an edge along the length of the surface, orient the sander parallel to it and keep most of the sander flat on the surface, never overhanging it more than slightly. To prevent the rounding of an edge across the width of the surface, be ready to move the sander back as you reach it; reorient the sander parallel to it, if necessary. Keep the sander back from any obstruction to avoid damaging the pad. To stop sanding, lift the sander straight off the surface, then release the trigger switch; let the pad stop moving before setting the sander down. Stop sanding periodically to empty the dust bag (step 1, above) and brush particles off the surface. Unplug the sander to clear the sandpaper, tapping or brushing it gently; if it's clogged, worn or torn, change it (step 2, above). Check your work at a low angle under a good light source; as well as your eyes, use your fingers. Unplug the sander and change to a finer-grit sandpaper as necessary. When you finish sanding, store your tools and clean up (ref. 27). PREPARING TO USE A BELT SANDER 1 Inspecting a belt sander. Check a belt sander before using it: with it unplugged, inspect its parts, consulting your owner’s manual. If the power cord or plug is loose or frayed or the handle, trigger switch or motor housing is cracked, don't use the sander until it's repaired. Tighten any loose screws. Empty any dust bag if it's more than half full, following the owner’s manual instructions; on the model shown, compress the ends of the spring clip on the intake and pull off the dust bag , then unzip and empty it. If there is a hole in the dust bag, repair it with duct tape or buy a replacement. Zip up the dust bag and fit the in take onto the exhaust port, compressing the ends of the spring clip enough to open it and slide it into the groove. Check also that the sander is clean. If the handle is greasy, wipe it using a soft cloth dampened with a solution of mild household detergent and water; don't wet any internal parts. Use a stiff-bristled brush to remove any caked dust; on the vents of the motor housing and other surfaces difficult to reach, wear safety goggles (ref. 25) and use compressed air. 2 Changing a sanding belt. Ensuring the sander is unplugged, follow the owner’s manual instructions to change the sanding belt if it's clogged, worn, torn or the wrong grit for the job; if necessary, turn it by hand to inspect its entire length. On the model shown, turn the sander upside down and pull the belt lever all the way out, locking it open; then, slide the old sanding belt off the front and rear drums. To remove caked dust from the housing around the rear drum, use an old toothbrush; on any surface difficult to reach, wear safety goggles (ref. 25) and use compressed air. If the platen, the front drum or the rear drum is worn or otherwise damaged, have it replaced. Choose a grit of sandpaper (ref. 90), ensuring you use a sanding belt of the correct size for your sander; if you are removing material from plywood or veneer, choose a finer grit of sandpaper than you would for another type of wood to avoid sanding through the top layer of it. Install the sanding belt with the sander upside down, sliding it into place around the front and rear drums; use the arrows marked on it to orient it in the direction of rotation specified by the manufacturer. Position the sanding belt parallel to the edge of the platen and align its outside edge with the outside edge of the rear drum, then push the belt lever all the way back into place, locking it closed. 3 Adjusting the tracking of the sanding belt. If your sander has manual tracking, wear safety goggles (ref. 25) and plug in the sander (ref. 24) to check it. Setting the sander upside down on a work surface, grip the handle securely and depress the trigger switch, then examine the travel of the sanding belt. The sanding belt should stay centered on the front and rear drums, traveling parallel to the edge of the platen with its outside edge aligned with the outside edge of the rear drum. If the sanding b travels laterally outward or in toward the housing, adjust its tracking. Keeping away from the sanding belt, rotate the tracking knob back and forth a little at a time, adjusting the angle of the front roller and the travel of the sanding belt. When the travel of the sanding belt is adjusted correctly, allow the sander to run for several minutes to ensure the sanding belt stays locked on track. Take the sander for professional service if its sanding belt does not stay locked on track or it has automatic tracking and its sanding belt travels laterally out ward or in toward the housing. USING A BELT SANDER Removing material from the surface of a board. Set up the workpiece on a work surface (ref. 17), then prepare to use a belt sander (ref. 93). Wearing safety goggles, hearing protection (ref. 25) and respiratory protection (ref. 26), plug in the sander (ref. 24) using an extension cord, if necessary (ref. 23). Ensuring the power cord is out of the way, grip the sander firmly with both hands and lift it, then depress the trigger switch. When the sanding belt is traveling at full speed, orient the sander at a 45-degree angle to the wood grain and gently set it down flat on the surface—and immediately move it slowly, working back and forth along the surface parallel to the wood grain in long, smooth, overlapping strokes. Let the weight of the sander provide the uniform pressure into the surface for the sanding belt to cut evenly; never let the sander rest on one spot. Depress any trigger lock, if desired; to release it, depress the trigger switch. To prevent the rounding of an edge along the length of the surface, keep most of the sander flat on it, never overhanging a drum complete. To prevent the rounding of an edge across the width of the surface, be ready to move the sander back as you reach it. Keep the sander back from any obstruction to avoid damaging the platen. To stop sanding, lift the sander straight off the surface, then release the trigger switch; let the sanding belt stop before setting the sander down. Stop sanding periodically to empty the dust bag (ref. 93) and brush particles off the surface. Unplug the sander to clear the sanding belt, tapping or brushing it gently or using an abrasive cleaner; if it's clogged, worn or torn, change it (ref. 93). If necessary, adjust the tracking of the sanding belt (step 3, above). Sand again the same way, orienting the sander in the opposite 45-degree angle to the wood grain. When you finish sanding, store your tools and clean up (ref. 27). Sanding the surface of a board. Set up the workpiece on a work surface (ref. 17), then prepare to use a belt sander (ref. 93); if you removed material from the surface using the belt sander, start with a sanding belt of the same grit as the last sanding belt you used. Wearing safety goggles, hearing protection (ref. 25) and respiratory protection (ref. 26), plug in the sander (ref. 24) using an extension cord, if necessary (ref. 23). Ensuring the power cord is out of the way, grip the sander firmly with both hands and lift it, then depress the trigger switch. When the sanding belt is traveling at full speed, orient the sander parallel to the wood grain and gently set it down flat on the surface—and immediately move it slowly, working back and forth along the surface in long, smooth, overlapping strokes (left, top). Let the weight of the sander provide the uniform pressure into the surface for the sanding belt to cut evenly; never let the sander rest on one spot. Depress any trigger lock, if desired; to release it, depress the trigger switch. To prevent the rounding of an edge along the length of the surface, keep most of the sander flat on it, never overhanging a drum completely (left, center). To prevent the rounding of an edge across the width of the surface, be ready to move the sander back as you reach it (left, bottom). Keep the sander back from any obstruction to avoid damaging the platen. To stop sanding, lift the sander straight off the surface, then release the trigger switch; let the sanding belt stop before setting the sander down. Stop sanding periodically to empty the dust bag (ref. 93) and brush particles off the surface. Unplug the sander to clear the sanding belt, tapping or brushing it gently or using an abrasive cleaner; if it's clogged, worn or torn, change it (ref. 93). If necessary, adjust the tracking of the sanding belt (ref. 94). Check your work at a low angle under a good light source; as well as your eyes, use your fingers. Unplug the sander and change to a finer-grit sandpaper as necessary. For fine-sanding of the surface, continue sanding using an orbital sander (ref. 92), starting with sandpaper of the same grit as the last sanding belt you used. When you finish sanding, store your tools and clean up (ref. 27). Previous: Cutting |