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Cutting tools are among the most frequently used in the home workshop; for almost every repair project, a piece needs cutting—to take it out of its position, or to fit it into place as a patch or a replacement. Cutting tasks fall into categories: sawing, routing, chiseling, snipping and scoring—and the first step in every job is choosing the right tool and technique. While some cutting tools like routers, chisels, tin snips and glass cutters are designed for specific cuts in specific materials, other cutting tools like power saws and handsaws can be used to make different cuts in different materials. To choose the cutting tool best suited to your cutting task, refer to the inventory presented below, and consult the Troubleshooting Guide (ref. 45); check the section on the type of material you are cutting and refer to the inventory column for help in identifying types of cuts. In many instances, you may be given a choice of tools. For example, to make a wide groove cut in wood, you can use a router (ref. 67) or a wood chisel (ref. 71). To help you choose the most appropriate cutting tool in these instances, refer to the specific repair acts included in the section. Safety and accuracy are essential for each cutting operation with any cutting tool; take the time to prepare properly. Read the section on Setting Up To Work (ref. 14) to determine the best, most secure setup for your job. As a general rule when you have a choice of cutting tools, use the one you are most comfortable handling—that is appropriate for the scale of the cutting task. For instance, the use of a power tool can require setup time that may not be worth taking for a small job; that may be worth taking for a small job if the alternative is a tool or technique unfamiliar to you. Also see: Home Repair, Improvement and Hardware: Products and Tips for Do-it-Yourself Projects Carpentry Resources and How-To Tips: Woodworking Tips, Tools, Plans, Finishing and Hardware Woodworking Supplies, Hardware, Tools, Plans, Finishing Consult Measuring and Marking (ref. 30) to measure and mark accurately. Before using a cutting tool, carefully inspect it; repair it, if necessary. If you are working with a power tool, consult your owner’s manual for instructions on its safe use; choose only the blades, bits or accessories recommended and ensure they are in good condition. When you use a cutting tool for the first time or in a new way and when you cut with a router, make test cuts in a scrap piece of your workpiece material; make a final cut only when you are satisfied with the tool performance and your technique. Hacksaw: Used primarily to cut metal and plastic. Interchangeable metal-cutting blades commonly have 18, 24 or 32 teeth per inch; grit-edged tungsten- carbide blade or rod saw can cut virtually any material. Drywall saw Similar to compass saw; short, sturdy blade is designed to punch through drywall for interior cuts. Coping saw: Designed for very fine curved or interior cuts in wood; blades interchangeable: more points per inch give smoother cuts. Blade can be installed on frame to cut on push or pull stroke. Wooden miter box: Can also be made of plastic. Slots guide backsaw tor 90-degree cuts or 45-degree miter or bevel Cuts in small pieces of wood. Replace any damaged protective wood piece along bottom. Mini-hacksaw: Used in situations where hacksaw frame can't fit. Uses standard hacksaw blade or blade broken at one end; bi-metal type can be bent for flush Cuts. Metal miter box: Swivels to allow backsaw installed in guides to Cut a wide range of miter or bevel angles in small pieces of wood. Replace any damaged protective wood piece along bottom. Crosscut saw: For crosscuts (perpendicular to wood grain) in hardwood and softwood. Blade with fewer points per inch (8) good for fast, rough Cuts or Cuts in softwood; with more points per inch (12) good for fine cuts or cuts in hardwood. Backsaw: Usually used in a miter box to make fine straight, miter or bevel cuts in wood; reinforced back permits perfectly straight Cuts. Most common models have blades with 11 to 13 points per inch. Ripsaw: For rip Cuts (parallel to wood grain) in hardwood and softwood; gives a fast, rough cut. Most common model has blade with 5 1/2 points per inch. Compass: Best for making fast, rough interior Cuts in wood, drywall and thin plastic. Most common type has blade with 8 or 10 points per inch; many have interchangeable blades. Keyhole saw has smaller blade for fine Cuts. Always wear the safety gear (ref. 25) recommended for the use of a cutting tool: safety goggles to protect your eyes from flying particles; respiratory protection to prevent the inhalation of harmful particles, dusts and mists; and hearing protection with a noisy power tool such as a circular saw or a router. Some types of materials that can be sharp when cut or that may be treated with chemicals—such as wood that is pressure-treated with preservatives—require skin protection when you handle them; as a rule, wear work gloves if you have any safety concerns about the material you are using. Work slowly and carefully while using any cutting tool, standing with solid footing in a well-balanced position. Keep your fingers, hands and legs out of the cutting path. Never overreach during a cutting operation; stop and reposition your workpiece or yourself. If you are cutting with a power tool for an extended time, stop periodically and check that its blade or bit and adjustable parts are secure. Take care of your cutting tools; they are delicate instruments. Set a cutting tool down carefully to avoid damaging it; clean it properly after using it, then store it safely out of reach in a dry area. Wood chisels: Sharp beveled edge cuts and shapes wood; available in 1/4- to 2- inch widths and with wooden or plastic handles. For light work, use heel of hand to drive chisel; for heavy work, use wooden mallet or ball-peen hammer. Masonry chisels: For scoring or cutting brick and concrete block; brick chisel has wide blade. Strike chisel with hand drilling hammer. Tin snips: Aviation and conventional types make straight cuts in sheet metal. Aviation tin snips best for curved cuts; compound-leverage action makes them easy to manipulate. Glass cutter: Cutting wheel scores glass and ceramic tile for clean cut. Use notches in head to bite off small pieces of waste material up to scored line. Pipe cutter: Models with different cutting wheels cut copper and plastic pipe smoothly and squarely; built-in reamer deburrs inside cut edges of pipe. Utility knife: For scoring or cuffing various materials; range of blades, including hooked type, available for different purposes. Extra blades stored in hollow handle. Wooden mallet: Used to strike a wood chisel without damaging its handle; large face less likely to slip off chisel handle. May be used to strike a chisel with any type of handle. Hand drilling hammer: Small sledgehammer used for striking a masonry chisel to cut brick or concrete block. Ball-peen hammer: Used to strike wood chisel for heavy work; use only to strike chisel with plastic handle or wooden handle with ferrule at its end. May be used to strike masonry chisel when cutting brick or concrete block. Waterstone: Used to sharpen chisels; coarse side for grinding, smooth side for honing. Available in different grits; 250-1000 grit model usually sufficient. Tile nipper: For making curved cuts or straight cuts near an edge in ceramic tile; jaws bite off pieces of waste material. TROUBLESHOOTING GUIDE straight cut curved cut level cut miter cut compound-angled cut interior cut groove cut stopped groove cut rabbet cut Mortise PROBLEM WOOD PROCEDURE EE Making a cross cut (straight cut perpendicular to wood grain) in hardwood or softwood For a long cut, use a circular saw or a crosscut saw For a short cut, use a saber saw or a backsaw For a cut where no other saw can fit, use a compass saw or keyhole saw Making a rip cut (straight cut parallel to wood grain) in hardwood or softwood For a long cut, use a circular saw or a rip saw For a short cut, use a saber saw For a cut where no other saw can fit, use a compass saw or keyhole saw Making a straight cut in plywood or For a long cut, use a circular saw or a crosscut saw composition board For a short cut, use a saber saw or a backsaw For a cut where no other saw can fit, use a compass saw or keyhole saw Making a straight cut in veneer Use a circular saw or a utility knife Making a curved cut Use a saber saw or a coping saw For a cut where no other saw can fit, use a compass saw or keyhole saw For a cut in veneer, use a utility knife Making a miter cut For a long cut, use a circular saw or a crosscut saw For a short cut, use a saber saw or a backsaw Making a bevel cut For a long cut, use a circular saw For a short cut, use a saber saw or a backsaw Making a compound-angled (bevel/miter) cut For a long cut, use a circular saw For a short cut, use a saber saw Making an interior cut For a large square cutout, use a circular saw or a reciprocating saw For a small square cutout, use a saber saw or a compass saw or keyhole saw For a large irregular or circular cutout, use a saber saw or a reciprocating saw For a small irregular or circular cutout, use a saber saw or a coping saw For a cut where no other saw can fit, use a compass saw or keyhole saw Making a hole Use a drill with a bit (0), a drill with a hole saw or a keyhole saw Making a groove cut For a long, wide cut, use a router For a long, narrow cut, use a circular saw For a short, wide cut, use a wood chisel For a short, narrow cut, use a backsaw Making a stopped groove cut Use a router Making a rabbet cut For a long cut, use a router For a short cut, use a backsaw Making a mortise Use a wood chisel TROUBLESHOOTING GUIDE (continued)
METAL
PLASTIC
MASONRY
CERAMIC TILE
GLASS
DRYWALL
PLASTER
Curved Cut SETTING UP A CUTTING GUIDE 1. Marking a position point. If you are using a handsaw, choose and install a cutting guide (step 3). If you are using a circular saw, unplug it and mark a position point for a cutting guide. If the cutting line is at 90 degrees to the edge of the workpiece, butt the saw blade against the end of it just to the waste side and rest the baseplate on the surface; orient the motor toward a supported end of the workpiece. Adjust the position of the saw until the line guide is aligned with the cutting line just to the waste side. Then, use a sharp pencil to mark a position point parallel to the cutting line along the baseplate on a supported end of the workpiece. If the cutting line is at an angle other than 90 degrees to the edge of the workpiece, use the same procedure. If you are using a saber saw, unplug it and mark a position point for a cuffing guide the same way, butting the saw blade against the end of the cutting line just to the waste side and marking a position point parallel to it along the baseplate. 2. Marking a second position point. To measure the distance from the cutting line to the marked position point, use a carpenter’s square (ref. 36). If the cutting line is at 90 degrees to the edge of the workpiece, measure the distance from it to the marked position point along the edge. If the cutting line is at an angle other than 90 degrees to the edge of the workpiece, align the outer edge of the long arm with the cutting line and measure the distance from it to the marked position point along the outer edge of the short arm. To mark a second position point equal in distance from the cutting line on the same side at the other end of it, reposition the carpenter’s square; then, align the outer edge of the long arm with the cutting line and mark the distance along the outer edge of the short arm using a sharp pencil. 3. Choosing and installing a cutting or routing guide. If desired, buy a cutting guide and follow the manufacturer’s instructions to set it u make a cutting or routing guide, use a straight-edged length of wood; the factory-cut edge of thick hardboard or plywood is ideal. Make sure the guide is of a width and height that can be clamped securely without it or the clamps obstructing your work. If you are using a circular saw, a saber saw or a router, use a guide that extends a few inches beyond each end of the cutting line. To install the guide, align its straight edge along the marked position points, then secure it with C clamps (ref. 22) along the edge farthest from the cutting line; if necessary, use protective shims. If you are using a handsaw, use a guide at least as long as the cutting line; install it the same way, aligning its straight edge along the cutting line. PREPARING TO USE A CIRCULAR SAW 1. Inspecting a circular saw. Check a circular saw before using it; with it unplugged, inspect its parts, consulting your owner’s manual. If the power cord or plug is loose or frayed or the handle, trigger switch or motor housing is cracked, don't use the saw. Tighten any loose screws or bolts. To check the lower blade guard, push the lever forward until the guard hits the rubber bumper, then release the lever; the guard should instantly retract. If the bumper is damaged and does not stop the blade guard or if the spring is damaged and does not instantly retract the blade guard, don't use the saw. Use the saw only after any repair necessary is undertaken. Check also that the saw is clean. If the handle is greasy, wipe it using a soft cloth dampened with a solution of mild household detergent and water; don't wet any internal parts. If there are burrs on the baseplate, use a file (ref. 88) to smooth them. Wearing work gloves (ref. 25), use steel wool dampened with mineral spirits to clean any gum, pitch or glue off the baseplate; avoid touching any plastic parts. Use a stiff- bristled brush to remove any caked sawdust; on the vents of the motor housing, the interior of the blade guards and other surfaces difficult to reach, wear safety goggles (ref. 25) and use compressed air. 2. Choosing a circular saw blade. Before using the circular saw, check that the blade is the right one for the job; consult the chart to determine the blade best suited to the type of material and type of cut. A combination blade, for example, can cut wood, plywood or composition board, but if you need to make a large number of cuts or very fine cuts, use a specialty blade. For metal or masonry, use the appropriate wheel-type blade. When buying a blade for your saw, read the label carefully. Check that the blade can be used on the material you are cutting and that its diameter matches the size of the saw (usually 7 1/4 inches). Also ensure that the arbor hole of the blade matches the arbor size of the saw (usually 5/8 inch). As well, check that the RPM rating of the blade is equal to or higher than the RPM rating of the saw—usually marked on its nameplate. In general, choose a blade marked hollow-ground or with a high number of teeth per inch for a smooth cut; one with a low number of teeth per inch for a rough cut. Standard combination blade: All-purpose blade for wood, plywood or com position board; best for rough crosscuts (across grain) and rip cuts (along grain). Master combination (planer) blade: All-purpose blade for wood, plywood or com position board; best for smooth crosscuts (across grain) and rip cuts (along grain). Crosscut (cutoff) blade: For crosscuts (across grain); leaves smoother cut edge than combination blade. Rip blade: For rip cuts (along grain); provides greater cutting efficiency than a combination blade. Metal abrasive blade: Smooth-edged wheel for cutting metal such as iron, steel, copper or aluminum. Carbide-tipped blade: Blade types with tungsten-carbide teeth more expensive but stay sharp longer; good for cutting most materials. 3. Inspecting, servicing and changing a blade. To inspect, service or change a blade, ensure the circular saw is unplugged, then remove the blade. If the saw is equipped with an arbor lock, follow the owner’s manual instructions to lock it; otherwise, as on the model shown, retract the lower blade guard enough to press the teeth of the blade into a scrap of soft wood. Holding the saw steady, loosen the arbor nut using the wrench supplied with the saw. Remove the nut and any washers behind it, noting their positions for reassembly. Wearing work gloves (ref. 25), retract the lower blade guard complete y then lift the blade off the arbor and slide it out. Use a small, stiff- bristled brush to clean any caked sawdust off the arbor. If the blade is bent or cracked or any teeth are chipped or missing, discard it. 4. Adjusting the cutting angle of the blade. Ensuring the circular saw is unplugged, follow the owner’s manual instructions to set the cutting angle of the blade. For a straight, miter or groove cut, set the blade at an angle of 90 degrees; for a bevel or compound cut, set the blade at the angle desired. On the model shown, loosen the wing nut and carriage bolt on the bevel scale at the front of the saw, then pivot the baseplate until the indicator is aligned with the desired numerical point on the bevel scale. Tighten the wing nut to set the baseplate position. If you are making a precision cut, check that the blade is set at the exact angle necessary; first, adjust the blade to its maximum cutting depth (step 5). If the blade is not damaged, use a soft cloth dampened with mineral spirits to wipe any gum, pitch or glue off it; dry it using a clean cloth. If you are changing the blade, apply a little light machine oil to it before storing it. Before installing a blade you have stored, wipe it with a soft cloth. Follow the owner’s manual instructions to install the blade; it may require a special washer. On the model shown, retract the lower blade guard and slide in the blade; ensure the rotational arrows on the blade face outward and in the same direction as any rotational arrow on the blade guard, and that the teeth of the blade point upward at the front of the saw. Fit the blade onto the arbor and install any washers necessary. Screw on and tighten the arbor nut by hand, then use the wrench to tighten it 1/8 of a turn. To check a saw blade set at an angle other than 90 degrees, use a sliding bevel set to the angle desired (ref. 37). Turn the saw upside down with its baseplate facing upward and retract the lower blade guard. Holding the outer edge of the bevel handle against the baseplate, butt its blade against the saw blade in the gullet between two teeth. If the bevel blade and handle fit flush against the surfaces, the saw blade is set at the angle desired; otherwise, readjust its angle by resetting the baseplate position. If you can't get the bevel blade and handle to fit flush against the surfaces, the saw may be out of alignment; have it professionally inspected. To check a saw blade set at an angle of 90 degrees, follow the same procedure using a try square (ref. 35). 5. Adjusting the cutting depth of the blade. Ensuring the circular saw is unplugged, follow the owner’s manual instructions to set the cutting depth of the blade. If you are not cutting masonry or making a groove cut, set the blade to clear the workpiece. Holding the saw at the edge of the workpiece with the baseplate resting on the surface, retract the lower blade guard and press the blade against the edge, then release the guard. On the model shown, flip up the depth adjustment lever. Keeping the baseplate flat, pivot the saw by lifting the top handle until the lowest point of the blade is below the bottom edge of the workpiece: 1/8” if it's of metal; 1/4” if it's of another material (inset, top). If the blade does not clear the workpiece at its maximum cutting depth, use a saber saw (ref. 54) or a handsaw (ref. 58). Otherwise, lock the depth adjustment lever. If you are cutting masonry or making a groove cut, measure and mark (ref. 30) the cutting depth on the edge of the workpiece; with masonry, cut no deeper than 1/4” at one time. Then, set the cutting depth of the blade using the same procedure, locking the depth adjustment lever when the lowest point of the blade is aligned with the marked depth line (inset, bottom). USING A CIRCULAR SAW (STRAIGHT and GROOVE CUTS) Preparing to make a cut. Set up the workpiece on a work surface (ref. 17) with its finished side facing down; measure and mark (ref. 30) a cutting line on it. Prepare to use a circular saw (ref. 48); if you are cutting metal or masonry, ensure the work area is free of flammable materials. For a long or precision cut, set up a cutting guide (ref. 47). For a long cut parallel to and less than 5 inches from a straight edge, buy a rip guide for your saw model and follow the manufacturer’s instructions to install it; on the model shown, slide its arm into the baseplate slots. To position the saw, wear safety goggles, hearing protection (ref. 25) and respiratory protection (ref. 26); if you are cutting metal or masonry, also wear work gloves (ref. 25). If you are not using a rip guide, plug in the saw (ref. 24) using an extension cord, if necessary (ref. 23). Standing to one side of the cut ting line, hold the saw by its top handle and auxiliary handle or knob; orient the motor toward a supported end of the workpiece. If you have not installed a cutting guide, butt the blade against the cutting line just to the waste side and rest the baseplate on the surface; if you installed a cutting guide, butt the side of the baseplate against it. Then, pull the saw back slightly so the blade is not touching the workpiece. If you are using a rip guide, first slide it snug against the workpiece and tighten its wing screw, then plug in the saw and position it. Ensure the power cord is clear of the blade. Making a cut in wood or plastic. Standing to one side of the saw and gripping it firmly, depress any trigger release button, then depress and hold the trigger switch. When the blade is turning at full speed, guide the saw into the workpiece at the cutting line; move it slowly if you are cutting plywood, composition board or plastic, or making a groove or bevel cut. The lower blade guard should retract as it hits the workpiece; if it catches, let go of the auxiliary handle or knob to retract it manually. Caution: Keep your hand clear of the blade. Watching the line guide position, continue along the cutting line, letting the blade cut at its own speed. If the line guide veers from the cutting line, gently guide the saw forward to it. If you are using a cutting guide, keep the baseplate pressed firmly against it; if you are using a rip guide, keep it pulled snug against the workpiece. Making a straight cut in metal. Standing to one side of the saw and gripping it firmly, depress any trigger release button, then depress and hold the trigger switch. When the blade is turning at full speed, guide the saw slowly into the workpiece at the cutting line. The lower blade guard should retract as it hits the workpiece; if it catches, let go of the auxiliary handle or knob to retract it manually. Caution: Keep your hand clear of the blade. Watching the blade or line guide position, continue along the cutting line, letting the blade cut at its own speed; it may shatter if forced or twisted. If the saw screeches or vibrates, immediately release the trigger switch; have the saw professionally inspected. To finish the cut, guide the saw out of the workpiece, then release the trigger switch and allow the lower blade guard to retract. Let the blade stop and set the saw down. To deburr any cut edge, use a file (ref. 87). Store your tools and clean up (ref. 27). If the blade slows while cutting, continue but don't force the saw; it may kick back. If the blade binds, immediately release the trigger switch and let the blade stop; to continue, fit a small wedge in the cut behind the saw, back up the saw slightly and position the blade, then start again. If the blade smokes, immediately release the trigger switch and let the blade stop; inspect the blade (ref. 49) before starting again. If the saw screeches or vibrates, immediately release the trigger switch; have the saw professionally inspected. To finish the cut, keep the trigger switch depressed and guide the saw out of the workpiece. When the saw is clear, release the trigger switch and allow the lower blade guard to retract, then let the blade stop and set the saw down. To make a series of parallel groove cuts, repeat the procedure at 1/8- to 1/4” intervals, then clear the waste material using a chisel (ref. 71). Store your tools and clean up (ref. 27). Making a straight cut in masonry. Standing to one side of the saw and gripping it firmly, depress any trigger release button, then depress and hold the trigger switch. When the blade is turning at full speed, guide the saw slowly into the workpiece at the cutting line. The lower blade guard should retract as it hits the workpiece; if it catches, let go of the auxiliary handle or knob to retract it manually. Caution: Keep your hand clear of the blade. Watching the line guide position, continue along the cutting line, letting the blade cut at its own speed. If the saw screeches or vibrates, immediately release the trigger switch; have the saw professionally inspected. To finish the cut, guide the saw out of the workpiece, then release the trigger switch and allow the lower blade guard to retract. Let the blade stop and set the saw down. Adjust the cutting depth (ref. 50) to repeat the procedure, making successively deeper groove cuts. Store your tools and clean up (ref. 27). USING A CIRCULAR SAW (INTERIOR CUTS) 1. Preparing to make an interior cut. Set up the workpiece on a work surface (ref. 17) with its finished side facing down; measure and mark (ref. 30) cutting lines on it. Prepare to use a circular saw (ref. 48); wear safety goggles, hearing protection (ref. 25) and respiratory protection (ref. 26). Plug in the saw (ref. 24) using an extension cord, if necessary (ref. 23). Holding the saw by its top handle and retracting the lower blade guard manually, stand to the side at one end of a cutting line; orient the motor toward the supported side of the cutting line. Resting the toe of the baseplate on the surface, align the blade and the line guide with the cutting line near the end of it just to the waste side. Then, pivot the saw forward on the toe of the baseplate, raising the blade off the surface; ensure the power cord is clear of the blade. 2. Making an interior cut. Standing to one side of the saw and gripping it firmly, depress any trigger release button, then depress and hold the trigger switch. When the blade is turning at full speed. Carefully lower it straight into the workpiece at the cutting line; when the baseplate rests flat on the surface, release the lower blade guard. Watching the line guide position, guide the saw along the cutting line, letting the blade cut at its own speed. If the line guide veers from the cutting line, gently guide the saw forward to it. When the blade reaches the end of the cutting line, release the trigger switch and let it stop. Pivot the saw forward on the toe of the baseplate to raise the blade and let the lower blade guide retract, then lift the saw. Use the same procedure along each cutting line, then use a compass saw (ref. 58) to finish the cuts. Store your tools and clean up (ref. 27). PREPARING TO USE A RECIPROCATING SAW 1. Inspecting a reciprocating saw. Check a reciprocating saw before using it; with it unplugged, inspect its parts, consulting your owner’s manual. If the power cord or plug is loose or frayed, the handle, trigger switch, motor housing or insulating boot is cracked or the shoe is broken, don't use the saw. Tighten any loose screws. If the saw is equipped with a pivoting shoe, check that it pivots freely. Use the saw only after any repair necessary is undertaken. Check also that the saw is clean. If the handle or insulating boot is greasy, wipe it using a soft cloth dampened with a solution of mild household detergent and water; don't wet any internal parts. If there are burrs on the shoe, use a file (ref. 88) to smooth them. Wearing work gloves (ref. 25), use steel wool dampened with mineral spirits to clean any gum, pitch or glue off the shoe; avoid touching any plastic parts. Use a stiff-bristled brush to remove any caked sawdust from the shoe, clamp and plunger; on the vents of the motor housing and other surfaces difficult to reach, wear safety goggles (ref. 25) and use compressed air. Plaster or drywall blade: For cuts in plaster or drywall; can also be used to cut wood or metal lath behind a plaster wall. Wood or plastic blade: Choose blade for type and thickness of material; more teeth per inch for a smooth cut, fewer for a rough cut. Metal blade: Choose blade for type and thickness of metal; at least 3 teeth should touch workpiece. 2 Choosing a reciprocating saw blade. Before using the reciprocating saw, check that the blade is the right one for the job. Consult the chart to determine the blade best suited to the type of material and type of cut; many specialty blades are also available. In general, use a blade just long enough to pass through the workpiece; for a curved cut, use the narrowest blade possible. Choose a blade with a high number of teeth per inch for a smooth cut; one with a low number of teeth per inch for a rough cut. When buying a blade for your saw, read the label carefully. Check that the blade can be used on the material you are cutting and that it fits your saw. Buy several blades to keep on hand in the event one breaks; choose a type made of sturdy bi-metal rather than of steel. 3 Inspecting, servicing and changing a blade. Ensure the reciprocating saw is unplugged, then remove the blade following the owner’s manual instructions. On the model shown, loosen the clamp screw using the wrench supplied with the saw, then lift the clamp and pull out the blade. If the blade is bent or cracked or any teeth are chipped or missing, discard it. If the blade is not damaged, use a soft cloth dampened with mineral spirits to wipe any gum, pitch or glue off it; dry it using a clean cloth. To install a blade, refer to the owner’s manual for its orientation; on the model shown, the teeth face the bottom of the saw. Lift the clamp and slide in the blade, positioning its hole under the clamp pin. Push the clamp down and use the wrench to tighten the clamp screw. USING A RECIPROCATING SAW (INTERIOR CUTS) Making an interior cut. Set up the workpiece on a work surface (ref. 17), then measure and mark (ref. 30) cutting lines on it; if you are working on a wall, ensure there are no electrical wires or plumbing pipes behind it. Prepare to use a reciprocating saw (ref. 52), consulting the owner’s manual to set any speed selector switch for the material being cut; wear safety goggles (ref. 25) and respiratory protection (ref. 26). Plug in the saw (ref. 24) using an extension cord, if necessary (ref. 23). For most materials, make a plunge entry. Holding the saw at one end of a cutting line with the teeth of the blade facing away from you, rest the edge of the shoe on the surface and align the blade with the cutting line just to the waste side. Then, pivot the saw on the edge of the shoe, raising the blade off the surface; en sure the power cord is clear of the blade. Gripping the saw firmly, depress and hold the trigger switch. When the blade is moving at full speed, carefully lower it straight into the workpiece at the cut ting line. If you can't make a plunge entry, use a drill (ref. 100) to make a starting hole for the blade slightly larger than it just to the waste side of the cutting line. When the shoe rests flat on the surface, guide the saw along the cutting line, letting the blade cut at its own speed and watching its position. If the blade veers from the cutting line, gently guide the saw ahead to it; avoid twisting the blade. When the blade reaches the end of the cutting line, release the trigger switch and let the blade stop, then lift the saw. Use the same procedure along each cutting line. Store your tools and clean up (ref. 27). PREPARING TO USE A SABER SAW 1 Inspecting a saber saw. Check a saber saw before using it; with it unplugged, inspect its parts, consulting your owner’s manual. If the power cord or plug is loose or frayed, the handle, trigger switch or housing is cracked, or the clamp or shaft is damaged, don't use the saw. Tighten any loose screws. Use the saw only after any repair necessary is undertaken. To clean the saw, use a soft cloth dampened with a solution of mild household detergent and water. Use a file (ref. 88) to smooth any burrs on the baseplate; wearing work gloves (ref. 25), use steel wool dampened with mineral spirits to clean any gum, pitch or glue off it. Use a stiff-bristled brush to remove any caked sawdust; on the vents and other surfaces difficult to reach, wear safety goggles (ref. 25) and use compressed air. 2 Choosing a saber saw blade. Before using the saber saw, check that the blade is the right one for the job. Consult the chart to determine the blade best suited to the type of material and type of cut; many specialty blades are also available. In general, use a blade just long enough to pass through the workpiece; for a curved cut, use the narrowest blade possible. Choose a blade with a high number of teeth per inch for a smooth cut; one with a low number of teeth per inch for a rough cut. When buying a blade for your saw, read the label carefully. Check that the blade can be used on the material you are cutting and that it fits your saw. Buy several blades to keep on hand in the event one breaks; choose a type made of sturdy bi-metal rather than of steel. 3 Inspecting, servicing and changing a blade. Ensure the saber saw is unplugged, then remove the blade following the owner’s manual instructions. On the model shown, loosen the clamp set screw using the wrench supplied with the saw, then pull out the blade; if it's broken, use long-nose pliers to extract it. If the blade is bent or cracked or any teeth are chipped or missing, discard it. If the blade is not damaged, use a soft cloth dampened with mineral spirits to wipe any gum, pitch or glue off it; dry it using a clean cloth. To install a blade, orient the teeth toward the front of the saw. On the model shown, slide the blade into the clamp and seat it in the roller groove with its hole positioned below the setscrew, then use the wrench to tighten the setscrew. 4 Adjusting the cutting angle of the blade. Ensuring the saber saw is unplugged, follow the owner’s manual instructions to set the cutting angle of the blade. For a straight or miter cut, set the blade at an angle of 90 degrees; for a bevel or compound cut, set the blade at the angle desired. On the model shown, loosen the setscrew under the baseplate using the wrench supplied with the saw, then pivot the baseplate until the edge of the housing is aligned with the desired numerical point on the bevel scale. Tighten the setscrew to set the baseplate position. If you are making a precision cut, check that the blade is set at the exact angle necessary as you would with a circular saw (ref. 49); if necessary, loosen the setscrew to readjust the cutting angle of the blade. USING A SABER SAW (STRAIGHT and CURVED CUTS) 1 Preparing to make a cut. Set up the workpiece on a work surface (ref. 17) with its finished side facing down; measure and mark (ref. 30) a cutting line on it. Prepare to use a saber saw (ref. 54), consulting the owner’s manual to set any speed selector switch for the material being cut. For a precision straight cut, set up a cutting guide (ref. 47). For a straight cut parallel to and less than 6 inches from a straight edge, buy a rip guide for your saw model and k the manufacturer’s instructions to install it; on the model shown, slide its arm into the baseplate slots. To position the saw, wear safety goggles (ref. 25) and respiratory protection (ref. 26); if you are cut ting metal, also wear work gloves (ref. 25). 2 Making a cut. Standing to one side of the saw and gripping it firmly, depress and hold the trigger switch; when the blade is moving at full speed, guide the saw slowly into the workpiece at he cutting line. For a straight cut, continue along the cutting line (above, ft), letting the blade cut at its own speed and watching its position, or a curved cut, use the same procedure (above, center). If the curve sharp, bypass it; cut straight to another point of the cutting line on the waste side, then complete the curve after the rest of the cut is finished. If the blade veers from the cutting line, gently guide the saw ahead of it; avoid twisting the blade. If you are using a cutting guide, keep the baseplate pressed firmly against it; if you are using a rip guide, keep pulled snug against the workpiece. If the blade slows or you have difficulty keeping it aligned, release the trigger switch and let the blade stop, then change it (ref. 54). If the blade binds, immediately release the trigger switch and let the blade stop; to continue, fit a small wedge in the cut behind the saw, then back up the saw slightly and start again. If the saw screeches or vibrates, immediately release the trigger switch; have the saw professionally inspected. If you are not using a rip guide, plug in the saw (ref. 24) using an extension cord, if necessary (ref. 23). Standing to one side of the cut ting line, hold the saw by the handle and the front of the housing. If you have not installed a cutting guide, butt the blade against the cutting line just to the waste side and rest the baseplate on the surface; if you in stalled a cutting guide, butt the side of the baseplate against it. Then, pull the saw back slightly so the blade is not touching the workpiece; keep the front edge of the baseplate flat on the surface. If you are using a rip guide, first slide it snug against the workpiece and tighten its setscrew, then plug in the saw and position it. Ensure the power cord is clear of the blade. To finish the cut at an edge, keep the trigger switch depressed and guide the saw out of the workpiece. When the saw is clear, release the trigger switch and let the blade stop, then set the saw down. To finish the cut in the interior, release the trigger switch when the blade reaches the end of the cutting line, then let the blade stop and lift the saw. Store your tools and clean up (ref. 27). USING A SABER SAW (INTERIOR CUTS) 1 Starting a cut. Set up the workpiece on a work surface (ref. 17) with its finished side facing down; measure and mark (ref. 30) cutting lines on it. Prepare to use a saber saw (ref. 54), consulting the owner’s manual to set any speed selector switch for the material being cut; if you are making a circular cut, buy a cutting guide for your saw model. To position the saw, wear safety goggles (ref. 25) and respiratory protection (ref. 26); if you are cutting metal, also wear work gloves (ref. 25). Plug in the saw (ref. 24) using an extension cord, if necessary (ref. 23). For most materials, make a plunge entry. Holding the saw near one end of a cutting line on the waste side, rest the toe of the baseplate on the surface and pivot the saw on it, raising the blade off the surface; ensure the power cord is clear of the blade. Gripping the saw firmly, depress and hold the trigger switch. When the blade is moving at full speed, carefully lower it straight into the workpiece. If you can't make a plunge entry, use a drill (ref. 100) to make a starting hole for the blade slightly larger than it near the cutting line just to the waste side. When the baseplate rests flat on the surface, guide the saw to the cutting line, releasing the trigger switch when the blade is aligned with it just to the waste side. Make the cut freehandedly (step 2) or using a cutting guide (step 3). 2 Making a freehanded cut. Standing to one side of the saw and gripping it firmly, depress and hold the trigger switch. When the blade is moving at full speed, guide it slowly along the cutting line just to the waste side. For a straight cut, continue along the cutting line, letting the blade cut at its own speed and watching its position. For a curved cut, use the same procedure. If the curve is sharp, bypass it; cut straight to another point of the cutting line on the waste side, then complete the curve after the rest of the cut is finished. If the blade veers from the cutting line, gently guide the saw ahead to it; avoid twisting the blade. If the blade slows or you have difficulty keeping it aligned, release the trigger switch and let the blade stop, then change it (ref. 54). If the blade binds, immediately release the trigger switch and let the blade stop; to continue, back up the saw slightly, then depress the trigger switch. If the saw screeches or vibrates, immediately release the trigger switch; have the saw professionally inspected. For a square interior cut, continue until the blade reaches the end of the cutting line, then release the trigger switch and let the blade stop; back up the saw slightly and cut a curve that bypasses the corner, guiding the blade to the adjacent cutting line. Use the same procedure along each cutting line, ensuring the workpiece center is supported; shift it on the work surface or drive a nail (ref. 117) into it to hold. Release the trigger switch when the blade reaches the end of the cut, then let the blade stop and lift the saw. Complete each corner the same way. Store your tools and clean up (ref. 27). 3 Making a circular cut with a cutting guide. For a precision circular cut up to 14 inches in diameter, use a cutting guide; on the model shown, a rip guide can be turned over and used. Unplug the saw and install the cutting guide following the manufacturer’s instructions; on the model shown, hold it with the arm down and slide it into the baseplate slots. Lifting the saw slightly, slide the cutting guide until a hole is positioned on the marked center point of the circle; keeping the hole in position, lower the saw and rest the baseplate on the surface. Push the pin of the cutting guide through the hole into the marked center point; if necessary, tap it with a hammer. Then, lighten the setscrew to secure the cutting guide and plug in the saw. PREPARING TO USE A HOLE SAW Standing to one side of the saw and gripping it firmly, depress and hold the trigger switch. When the blade is moving at full speed, guide the saw slowly forward, letting the cutting guide draw it in an arc around the marked center point and watching the blade position. If the blade veers from the cutting line, release the trigger switch and let the blade stop, then adjust the cutting guide. Continue along the cutting line the same way, ensuring the workpiece center is supported as you reach the end of the cut; shift it on the work surface or drive a nail (ref. 117) into it to hold. Release the trigger switch when the blade reaches the end of the cut, then let the blade stop and lift the saw. Store your tools and clean up (ref. 27). Adapter; Spacer; Arbor Setting up a hole saw. For a precision hole from 1 to 2 1/2 inches in diameter, use a hole saw of the same diameter as the cut and an electric drill. Hole saws for your drill model are usually available in kits; en sure a hole saw can be used on the material you are cutting and that its arbor fits the drill chuck. To assemble the hole saw, follow the manufacturer’s instructions; on the model shown, install a hole saw of 1/2 inches or larger in diameter only on a drill with a side handle and a 3/8” or larger chuck. To install a hole saw 1 3/8 inches or larger in diameter, use an adapter; screw it onto the threaded end of the arbor and slip a spacer onto its threaded end, then fit the hole saw over the arbor and screw it in place. To install a hole saw less than 1 3/8 inches in diameter, screw it in place directly onto the threaded end of the arbor. The bit of the arbor should protrude about 1/4”beyond the teeth of the hole saw; if necessary, loosen the arbor setscrew to reposition the bit, then retighten it. Prepare to use the drill (ref. 100), fitting it with a detachable side handle if there is no built-in one. Then, insert the bit of the arbor into the chuck, installing it as you would any other bit (ref. 101). USING A HOLE SAW Making a cut. Set up the workpiece on a work surface, if necessary (ref. 17); then, measure and mark (ref. 30) a center point for the cut. If the workpiece is 3/4”or less thick, secure a piece of wood behind it with C clamps (ref. 22) to keep it from splintering; use protective shims on the finished side, if necessary. Prepare to use a hole saw (ref. 57), setting any drill speed switch to SLOW and reversing switch to FORWARD; wear safety goggles (ref. 25) and respiratory protection (ref. 26). Plug in the drill (ref. 24) using an extension cord, if necessary (ref. 23). Gripping the drill firmly, hold it perpendicular to the workpiece and push the bit against the marked center point. Ensuring the power cord is clear of the hole saw, depress and hold the trigger switch to run the drill slowly; apply even pressure to sink the bit. If the drill slows, increase its speed; if it strains, decrease its speed or your pressure. To prevent overheating, periodically pull the drill straight back, then release the trigger switch and let the hole saw stop. Clear sawdust out of the cut, then continue when the hole saw is cool. If there is smoke or a burning odor, immediately pull the drill straight back. Continue the procedure until the hole saw exits the other side of the workpiece; if you secured a piece of wood behind it , ensure it can clear each C clam the hole saw can't cut deeper and has not exited the other side of the workpiece, pull it straight back. Replace the hole saw with a long twist bit (ref. 101), then drill into the center point of the hole until the twist bit exits. Reinstall the hole saw and continue the procedure on the other side of the workpiece; turn it over, if necessary. When the cut is finished, store your tools and clean up (ref. 27). PREPARING TO USE A HANDSAW Inspecting a handsaw. Choose a handsaw (ref. 43) for the type of cut you are making, checking that the blade is the right one for the job; in general, use a blade with a high number of teeth or points per inch for a smooth cut; one with a low number of teeth or points per inch for a rough cut. Inspect the saw before using it. If the handle is loose, tighten its screws or bolts; if it's broken, you may be able to replace it. If the blade is warped or any teeth are missing, buy a new saw; with a compass saw, it may be possible to replace the blade. If the blade is chipped or uneven or it cuts poorly, have it professionally sharpened. Use a soft cloth dampened with mineral spirits to wipe any gum, pitch or glue off the blade; wearing work gloves (ref. 25), use steel wool dampened with light machine oil to remove any rust. When buying a new blade or handle, choose an exact duplicate; take the old one with you. To change the blade or handle, follow the manufacturer’s instructions; with the saws shown, remove the bolts from the handle and slide out the blade, then reverse the procedure to install the new blade or handle. Compass saw USING A CROSSCUT SAW Making a straight cut. Set up the workpiece on a work surface (ref. 17) at knee level; measure and mark (ref. 30) a cutting line on it. For a precision cut, set up a cutting guide (ref. 47). Prepare to use a cross cut saw (ref. 58). Standing to one side of the cutting line, hold the saw almost perpendicular and butt the blade against the end of it just to the waste side; rest your knee on the workpiece to steady it, if necessary. Gripping the workpiece, rest your thumb against the blade to guide it and draw the saw toward you several times, notching the edge; if it jumps, lower the angle. Lower the saw to a 45-degree angle, align your arm and shoulder with the blade, and start the cut with short strokes; push the saw down firmly and pull it up lightly. Gradually length en the strokes, fully extending your arm on the downstroke (above, center) and drawing it back on the upstroke. If the blade wanders from the cutting line, steadily guide it back; if it buckles or vibrates, realign your arm and shoulder with it. If the blade binds, inspect it (ref. 58); it may need cleaning or sharpening. When the blade is 1” from the end of the cutting line, raise the saw almost perpendicular and finish the cut with short strokes, steadying any unsupported end of the workpiece. If necessary, trim or smooth the cut edge (ref. 78). Store your tools and clean up (ref. 27). USING A RIP SAW Making a straight cut. Set up the workpiece on a work surface (ref. 17) at knee level; measure and mark (ref. 30) a cutting line on it. For a precision cut, set up a cutting guide (ref. 47). Prepare to use a rip saw (ref. 58). Standing to one side of the cutting line, hold the saw almost perpendicular and butt the blade against the end of it just to the waste side; steady the workpiece with your knee, if necessary. Gripping the workpiece, rest your thumb against the blade to guide it and draw the saw toward you several times, notching the edge; if it jumps, lower the angle. Lower the saw to a 60-degree angle, align your arm and shoulder with the blade, then start the cut with short, firm strokes, gradually lengthening them (far left). If the blade wanders from the cutting line, steadily guide it back; if it buckles or vibrates, realign your arm and shoulder with it. If the blade binds, inspect it (ref. 58); if necessary, fit a small wedge in the cut, as shown. When the blade is 1” from the end of the cutting line, raise the saw almost perpendicular and finish the cut with short strokes, steadying any unsupported end of the workpiece (near left). If necessary, trim or smooth the cut edge (ref. 78). Store your tools and clean up (ref. 27). USING A BACKSAW Making a straight cut. Set up the workpiece on a work surface (ref. 17); measure and mark (ref. 30) a cutting line or point on it. For a precision cut, set up a miter box along an edge of the work surface; use C clamps (ref. 22) to secure it, if necessary. Position the workpiece flush against the back of the miter box, aligning the cutting line or point with the appropriate slot. If the workpiece is too large for a miter box, set up a cutting guide (ref. 47). Prepare to use a backsaw (ref. 58). If you are using a wooden miter box, slide the saw into the slots appropriate for the cutting angle and rest the blade level on the workpiece at the cutting line or point just to the waste side; adjust the position of the workpiece, if necessary (above left, top). If you are using a metal miter box, follow the manufacturer’s instructions to set the arm at the cutting angle desired; on the model shown, depress the lever, swivel the arm until its indicator intersects the numerical point on the miter scale and release the lever. Then, slide the saw into the slots and position the blade the same way (above left, bottom). If you are using a cutting guide, set the saw against it, positioning the blade the same way. Steadying the workpiece, draw the saw toward you several times to notch it. Aligning your arm and shoulder with the blade, use long, smooth strokes to make the cut, pushing away firmly and pulling back lightly. If necessary, trim or smooth the cut edge (ref. 78). Store your tools and clean up (ref. 27). Making a groove cut. Set up the workpiece on a work surface (ref. 17); measure and mark (ref. 30) a cutting line and a depth line at each end of it. For a precision cut, set up a cutting guide (ref. 47). Prepare to use a backsaw (ref. 58). Setting the saw against any cutting guide, rest the blade level on the workpiece at the cutting line just to the waste side. Steady the workpiece and draw the saw toward you several times to notch it. Aligning your arm and shoulder with the blade, use long, smooth strokes to make the cut, pushing away firmly and pulling back lightly. Continue until the blade reaches the depth line at each end of the cutting line. To make a series of parallel groove cuts, repeat the procedure at 1/8- to 1/4” intervals (far left), then clear the waste material using a chisel (ref. 71). To make a rabbet cut at an end of the workpiece, make two groove cuts: one across the width; the other at a 90-degree angle to it across the end grain. Steadying the saw, use the same procedure to cut across the end grain (near left) until the blade reaches each end of the first groove cut. Store your tools and clean up (ref. 27). USING A COMPASS, KEYHOLE OR DRYWALL SAW Making a straight or curved cut. If necessary, set up the workpiece on a work surface (ref. 17), then measure and mark (ref. 30) a cut ting line on it. Prepare to use a handsaw (ref. 58). To make a straight cut with a compass saw, hold it at a 45-degree angle to the edge of the workpiece and set the blade along any cutting line just to the waste side. Gripping the handle firmly with your thumb on one side to guide it, draw the saw toward you several times to notch the edge of the workpiece. Aligning your arm and shoulder with the blade, use long, smooth strokes to make the cut with its heel, pushing the saw away firmly and pulling it back lightly. To make a straight cut with a keyhole saw, use the same procedure. To make a curved cut, use the compass saw or keyhole saw the same way, using short strokes with its toe. If necessary, trim or smooth the cut edge (ref. 78). Store your tools and clean up (ref. 27). Making an interior cut. If necessary, set up the workpiece on a work surface (ref. 17), then measure and mark (ref. 30) cutting lines on it; if you are working on a wall, ensure there are no electrical wires or plumbing pipes behind it. Prepare to use a handsaw (ref. 58). With a compass saw, use a drill (ref. 100) to make a starting hole: for a square cut, at two diagonally-opposite corners of the cutting lines just to the waste side; for a circular cut, at the cutting line just to the waste side. Fitting the blade into a hole and aligning your arm and shoulder with it, use short, smooth strokes to make the cut with its toe; push away firmly and pull back lightly; for a square cut, repeat the procedure along each cutting line. With a keyhole saw, use the same procedure. With a drywall saw, align the tip of the blade with the cutting line just to the waste side and strike the handle sharply , plunging the blade; cut as you would with a knife. If necessary, trim or smooth any cut edge (ref. 78). Store your tools and clean up (ref. 27). PREPARING TO USE A COPING SAW Choosing, inspecting and changing a blade. Inspect a coping saw before using it, checking that the blade is the right one for the type of material and type of cut. With a hard material such as ceramic tile or slate, use a specialty blade. In general, use a blade with a high number of teeth or points per inch for a smooth cut; one with a low number of teeth or points per inch for a fast, rough cut. If the blade is dirty, rusted, warped or broken or it cuts poorly, replace it. To change the blade, follow the manufacturer’s instructions. On the model shown, turn the handle counterclockwise to reduce the tension of the blade. Bracing the end of the frame against a fixed object, push the handle to loosen the blade, then lift it out of the spigot slots. To install a new blade, orient it correctly: to cut on the pull stroke for a very smooth cut, with the teeth facing the handle; otherwise, with the teeth facing the end of the frame. Brace the end of the frame against a fixed object and push the handle, then slip the blade into the spigot slots; ensure the pin at each end of the blade is on the outer side of the spigot. Ease pressure on the handle and turn it clockwise to tighten the blade, keeping the spigots from turning with it. USING A COPING SAW Making a curved cut. Set up the workpiece on a work surface (ref. 17); measure and mark (ref. 30) a cutting line on it. Prepare to use a coping saw (ref. 61), orienting the blade teeth toward the handle to work from the finished side of the workpiece; toward the end of the frame otherwise. Holding the saw across the edge of the workpiece and steadying the end of the frame, align the blade with the cutting line just to the waste side. Start the cut with short, smooth strokes, then gradually lengthen them; push the saw away firmly and pull it back lightly, cutting on the appropriate stroke. Angle the frame to follow the cutting line; don't twist the blade. If a curve is sharp or the frame hits the workpiece, turn the handle to loosen the blade, then ad just the frame, holding the spigots to steady the blade ; turn the handle to retighten the blade, If necessary, trim or smooth the cut edge (ref. 78). Store your tools and clean up (ref. 27). Making an interior cut. Set up the workpiece on a work surface (ref. 17); measure and mark (ref. 30) a cutting line on it. Use a drill (ref. 100) to make a starting hole for the blade of a coping saw near the cut ting line on the waste side. Prepare to use the coping saw (ref. 61), fit ting the blade into the hole and then installing it on the frame; orient its teeth toward the handle to work from the finished side of the workpiece, toward the end of the frame otherwise. Holding the saw steady, use short, smooth strokes to guide the blade to the cutting line, then along it just to the waste side; push away firmly and pull back lightly. Angle the frame to follow the cutting line; don't twist the blade. If the curve is sharp or the frame hits the workpiece, turn the handle to loosen the blade, then adjust the frame, holding the spigots to steady the blade; turn the handle to retighten the blade. If necessary, trim or smooth the cut edge (ref. 78). Store your tools and clean up (ref. 27). PREPARING TO USE A HACKSAW Metal-cutting blade For straight Cuts in metal or plastic. 1 Choosing a blade. Choose the right blade for the type of material using the chart. In general, use a blade with a high number of teeth per inch (tpi) for a smooth cut; one with a low number of teeth per inch for a rough cut. As well, use the thickness of the workpiece as a guide: a 32 or 24 tpi blade to cut a thickness of less than 1/16 inch; a 24 or 18 tpi blade to cut a thickness of 1/16 to 1/4 inch; an 18 tpi blade to cut a thickness of more than 1/4 inch. Tungsten-carbide blade: For straight Cuts in metal, fiberglass, ceramic, brick, Concrete, slate or plastic. Tungsten-carbide rod saw: For curved or interior cuts in metal, fiberglass, ceramic, brick, concrete, slate or plastic. 2 Changing and adjusting a blade. To change or adjust a blade, follow the manufacturer’s instructions. On the model shown, loosen the wing nut, then lift the blade off the studs. To adjust the frame length, slide the back end until it catches in the appropriate notch of the front end. To adjust the blade angle, loosen the front stud and position its pin at the angle desired ; then, loosen the back stud and position its pin at the same angle. With a metal-cutting blade, orient its teeth toward the front end of the frame, away from the handle. To in stall a blade, fit its holes onto the stud pins, then tighten the wing nut until it's rigid but not arched. USING A HACKSAW Making a straight cut. Set up the workpiece on a work surface (ref. 17); measure and mark (ref. 30) a cutting line on it. Prepare to use a hacksaw (ref. 62). Holding the saw steady, align the blade with the cut ting line just to the waste side. With a metal-cutting blade, position at least 3 teeth on the workpiece, then push the saw away from you several times to notch it; lift the saw slightly to pull it back. Start the cut with short, smooth strokes, then gradually lengthen them; push away firmly and pull back lightly. Angle the frame to follow the cutting line; don't twist the blade. If the frame hits the workpiece, adjust the blade (ref. 62). With a tungsten-carbide blade or rod saw, use the same procedure, pushing away and pulling back firmly. If necessary, smooth the cut edge (ref. 78). Store your tools and clean up (ref. 27). Making an interior cut. Set up the workpiece on a work surface (ref. 17); measure and mark (ref. 30) a cutting line on it. Use a drill (ref. 100) to make a starting hole for the tungsten-carbide rod saw to be used as a blade with the hacksaw near the cutting line on the waste side. Then, prepare to use the hacksaw (ref. 62), fitting the rod saw into the hole and then installing it on the frame. Holding the saw steady, use short, smooth strokes to guide the rod saw to the cut ting line, then along it just to the waste side; push away and pull back firmly. Swivel the frame to follow the cutting line along a curve or to change direction and follow an adjacent cutting line at a corner. If necessary, smooth the cut edge (ref. 78). Store your tools and clean up (ref. 27). USING A MINI-HACKSAW 1 Installing a blade. If necessary, set up the workpiece on a work surface (ref. 17); measure and mark (ref. 30) a cutting line on it. Use a mini-hacksaw when cutting with a standard hacksaw is impractical: access is obstructed or the workpiece is too small, for example. Choose a blade (ref. 62) and install it with its teeth facing away from the handle. Slide the blade into the slot of the handle, leaving enough extended to make the cut, then tighten the clamp screw. 2 Making a straight cut. Gripping the handle of the saw, butt the blade against the workpiece along any cutting line just to the waste side. For example, fit the blade in a narrow opening (above, top) or set it flush with another surface, pressing the handle to bend it slightly (above, bottom). Make the cut using short, smooth strokes, pushing the saw away firmly and pulling it back lightly. If necessary, smooth the cut edge (ref. 78). Store your tools and clean up (ref. 27). SETTING UP A GUIDE FOR A ROUTER Setting up a routing guide and a stop. For a groove cut parallel to and less than 5 inches from a straight edge, set up an edge guide (step below). Otherwise, set up a routing guide. To set up a routing guide, center the router at the starting end of the cutting line just to the waste side with its baseplate resting on the surface and the bit extended to the cutting depth. Turn the bit so its widest face is flush against the edge of the workpiece, then adjust the position of the router until the edge of the bit is aligned with the cutting line just to the waste side. Using a sharp pencil, mark a position point along the edge of the baseplate on the same side of the bit as the cutting line. Mark a second position point equal in distance from the cutting line on the same side at the other end of it, then install a routing guide (ref. 47). Set up a routing guide along any other parallel cutting line the same way. For a stopped groove cut, also set up a stop. To set up a stop, use a carpenter’s square (ref. 36) to measure the distance from the cutting line to the routing guide, then to measure the distance from one end to the other end of the cutting line. Add the two measurements together, then mark a position point along the inside edge of the routing guide equal to this total distance from the starting end of the cutting line. Using the carpenter’s square, mark a position line perpendicular to the inside edge of the routing guide at the marked position point. To make a stop, use a straight-edged length of wood of the same thickness as the routing guide. To install the stop, set it against the inside edge of the routing guide with its straight edge aligned along the marked position line. Then, secure the stop with C clamps (ref. 22) along the edge farthest from the cutting line; if necessary, use protective shims. Setting up an edge guide. For a groove cut other than parallel to and less than 5 inches from a straight edge, set up a routing guide. Otherwise, buy an edge guide for your router model and install it following the manufacturer’s instructions; on the model shown, slide the arms into the baseplate slots and tighten the setscrews. If necessary, smooth the edge of the workpiece (ref. 78) so the edge guide can travel easily along it. To adjust the edge guide, center the router at the starting end of the cut ting line just to the waste side with its baseplate resting on the surface and the bit extended to the cutting depth. Turn the bit so its widest face is flush against the edge of the workpiece, then adjust the position of the router until the edge of the bit is aligned with the cutting line just to the waste side. Loosen the thumbscrews of the edge guide, then slide it snug against the workpiece and tighten the thumbscrews. PREPARING TO USE A ROUTER 1 Inspecting a router. Check a router before using it; with it unplugged, inspect its parts, consulting your owner’s manual. If the power cord, plug or switch is faulty or the housing is damaged, don't use the router until any repair necessary is undertaken. Tighten any loose screws. Check also that the router is clean. With a conventional router, detach the motor unit from the base unit; on the model shown, loosen the clamp screw, then unscrew the motor unit and lift it out, releasing its guide pins from the spiral grooves of the base unit. With a plunge router, raise its motor unit to maximum height; on the model shown, depress the lock lever to turn the height adjustment nut to its highest position, then flip it up to ease the motor unit up and down the guide posts. To clean dirt, gum or pitch off plastic parts, use a soft cloth dampened with a solution of mild household detergent and water; for metal parts, use a soft cloth dampened with mineral spirits, then apply a little silicone lubricant to any moving part you cleaned. If the motor unit of a plunge router slides poorly, apply a little silicone lubricant to the guide posts. If the baseplate is scratched, use sandpaper to smooth it. Remove any caked sawdust using a stiff-bristled brush; for vents and other surfaces difficult to reach, wear safety goggles (ref. 25) and use com pressed air. 2 Inspecting and servicing the collet. Before using the router, inspect the collet and chuck. To remove the collet, follow the owner’s manual instructions using the wrench or wrenches sup plied with the router. For the conventional router shown, stand the motor unit upside down, then fit one wrench onto the chuck and the other wrench onto the collet nut; holding the chuck steady, turn the collet nut counterclockwise to loosen it (above left, top). For the plunge router shown, fit its wrench onto the collet nut; depressing the shaft lock button, turn the collet nut clockwise to loosen it (above left, bottom). Unscrew the collet nut by hand and remove it, then lift the collet out of the chuck (above right); on some models, you may need to snap it out of the collet nut. Inspect each part carefully; if it's worn, chipped or warped, replace it with an exact duplicate. Use a stiff-bristled brush to remove any caked sawdust. To clean gum, pitch or glue off a part, wear work gloves (ref. 25) and use steel wool dampened with mineral spirits, then apply a little silicone lubricant. To install the collet, reverse the sequence used to remove it; tighten the collet nut only a little by hand, then tighten it fully after choosing a bit (step 3) and installing it (step 4). 3 Choosing a bit. Before using the router, choose the right bit for the job, consulting the chart; many specialty bits are also available. To make a groove cut or a stopped groove cut, use a straight bit; to make a rabbet cut, use a rabbeting bit. Choose a bit with a shank diameter that fits the chuck of your router. Use only a bit with a 1/4” shank for a router with a 1/4” chuck. For a router with a 1/2” chuck, you may be able to use bits with 1/4- or 3/8” shanks as well as with 1/2” shanks; follow the owner’s manual instructions to install a smaller collet or use an adapter. Choose a bit with a cutting depth equal to or greater than the depth of the cut you are making and with a cutting width equal to the width of the cut you are making. If a straight bit of the cutting width necessary is not available, choose one with a smaller cutting width and plan to use it to make overlapping parallel cuts; if a rabbeting bit of the cutting width necessary is not available, choose one with a smaller cutting width and plan to use a straight bit after it to widen the cut. For cuts in softwood, choose a high-speed steel bit; for cuts in hardwood, plywood or composition board or if you are buying a bit to be used frequently, choose a carbide-tipped type. Inspect a bit before using it; if it's dull, warped or cracked or a flute is chipped, discard it. If there is caked sawdust, gum, pitch or glue on the tip of the bit, clean it using a soft cloth dampened with mineral spirits; on the shank of the bit, wear work gloves (ref. 25) and clean it using steel wool. 4 Installing and tightening a bit. Before installing a bit, check that the router is unplugged. Ensure a collet of the correct size is installed in the chuck and that its nut is screwed on loosely. If you are using a bit without an adapter, insert its shank into the collet, pushing it in as far as possible and then pulling it back out slightly—about 1/16 inch. If you are using a bit with an adapter, first slide the shank of the bit into the adapter , then insert them together into the collet the same way. Holding the bit steady, tighten the collet nut fully by hand, then using the wrench or wrenches supplied with the router, reversing the procedure used to loosen it and inspect the collet (step 2). As a final check for a worn collet or chuck, carefully grasp the bit and try to shift it sideways; if it moves, the collet or chuck is worn and should be professionally serviced. If the collet nut is tight and the bit slips repeatedly while the router is in use, have the router professionally inspected. 5 Reassembling a conventional router. If you are using a plunge router, set the cutting depth of the bit (step 6). To reassemble a conventional router, follow the owner’s manual instructions, reversing the sequence used to disassemble and inspect it (step 1). With the model shown, stand the motor unit upside down and push the base unit as far as possible onto the bottom of it; then, screw the base unit onto the motor unit, the guide pins of the motor unit set firmly into the spiral grooves of the base unit. Tighten the clamp screw to secure the base unit to the motor unit. Rabbeting bit: Pilot guides bit along edge of workpiece. Fixed pilot may scorch as it slides; ball-bearing type rolls without scorching but is more expensive. Single flute; Double flute; Straight bit Range of flute (cutting edge) types available. Use single-fluted for narrow, fast, rough cuts; double-fluted for wide, slow, smooth cuts. Adapter: Used with some router models to install 1/4- or 3/8” bit in 1/2” collet. 6 Setting the cutting depth of the bit. Measure and mark (ref. 30) a depth line on the edge of the workpiece at the starting end of the cutting line; cut no deeper than 1/4” at one time with softwood, 1/8” at one time with another material. To adjust the cutting depth of the bit, position the router at the starting end of the cutting line with its baseplate resting on the surface and follow the owner’s manual instructions. On the conventional router shown, loosen the clamp screw, then turn the motor unit to raise or lower it along with the bit. With a straight bit, align its tip with the depth line; with a rabbeting bit, align its bottom cutting edge with the depth line. To set the cutting depth of the bit, tighten the clamp screw. On the plunge router shown, push the motor unit down until the bit is aligned with the depth line, then depress the lock lever. To set the router for plunging to the cutting depth, turn the depth adjustment pole until it butts a bolt on the stopper block under it (near left); then, tighten the nut at the base of the bolt. USING A ROUTER (GROOVE CUTS) 1 Making a cut. Set up the workpiece on a work surface (ref. 17); measure and mark (ref. 30) a cutting line, extending it down the edge at the starting end of the cut. Prepare to use a router (ref. 65), then set up a routing guide or an edge guide (ref. 64). Wearing safety goggles, hearing protection (ref. 25) and respiratory protection (ref. 26), plug in the router (ref. 24) and make test cuts using scrap material; if necessary, unplug the router and adjust it. Position the router at the starting end of the cutting line with its baseplate resting on the surface; check the cutting depth of the bit (step 6, above). If you are using a routing guide, butt the baseplate against it; if you are using an edge guide, set it snug against the workpiece. Then, pull the router back slightly so the bit is not touching the workpiece and ensure the power cord is out of the way. Grip the router firmly and turn it on. When the bit is turning at full speed, guide the router slowly into the workpiece. Keeping the baseplate flat, move steadily along the cutting line, watching the bit through the baseplate; it should move easily, throwing off small chips. If the bit veers from the cutting line, steer the router to it. If the bit scorches or powders the wood, move faster. If the bit strains and throws off big chips, move slower; if the bit still strains, turn off and unplug the router, then let the bit cool and decrease its cutting depth. If the router overheats, stop cutting until it cools, then turn off and unplug it to decrease the cutting depth of the bit. If the router vibrates noisily, have it professionally serviced. To finish the cut, guide the router out of the workpiece, keeping the baseplate flat; then, tilt the router back, turn it off and let the bit stop before making another cut with the router, ensure the bit is tight (ref. 66). If necessary, widen the cut (step 2); to deepen it, increase the cutting depth of the bit and repeat the procedure. Otherwise, store your tools and clean up (ref. 27). 2 Widening the cut. Measure and mark (ref. 30) a cutting line parallel to the first cut, extending it down the edge at the starting end of the cut; then, set up a second routing guide or an edge guide (ref. 64). Wearing safety goggles, hearing protection (ref. 25) and respiratory protection (ref. 26), use the router to make a second cut parallel to the first cut, following the procedure used to make it (step 1). Then, use the router without a guide g the same way to cut any waste material remaining between the two cuts, working from the right to the left side of it and making as many consecutive, parallel cuts as necessary. To deepen the cuts, unplug the router to in crease the cutting depth of the bit (ref. 67); then, repeat the procedure, deepening the first cut and the second cut, then cutting any waste material remaining between the two cuts. Other wise, store your tools and clean up (ref. 27). USING A ROUTER (STOPPED GROOVE CUTS) 1 Making a cut. Set up the workpiece on a work surface, then measure and mark (ref. 30) a cutting line, extending it down the edge at the starting end of the cut. Prepare to use a router (ref. 65), then set up a routing guide and a stop (ref. 64). Wearing safety goggles, hearing protection (ref. 25) and respiratory protection (ref. 26), plug in the router (ref. 24) and make test cuts using scrap material; if necessary, unplug the router and adjust it. Position the router at the starting end of the cutting line with its baseplate resting on the surface and butted against the routing guide; check the cutting depth of the bit and adjust it, if necessary (ref. 67). Then, pull the router back slightly so the bit is not touching the workpiece. Ensuring the power cord is out of the way, grip the rout firmly and turn it on. When the bit is turning at full speed, guide the router slowly into the workpiece. Keeping the baseplate flat, move steadily along the cutting line. Watch the bit through the baseplate; it should move easily, throwing off small chips. If the bit veers from the cutting line, steer the router to it. If the bit scorches or powders the wood, move faster. If the bit strains and throws off big chips, move slower; if the bit still strains, turn off and unplug the router, then let the bit cool and decrease its cutting depth. If the router overheats, stop cutting until it cools, then turn off and unplug it to decrease the cutting depth of the bit. If the router vibrates noisily, have it professionally serviced. Continue until the baseplate butts the stop firmly. With a conventional router, turn it off and let the bit stop, then lift it; with a plunge router, flip up the lock lever (in set) and let the bit clear the workpiece, then turn it off and lift it. Before making another cut with the router, ensure the bit is tight (ref. 66). If necessary, widen the cut (step 2); to deepen it, increase the cutting depth of the bit and repeat the procedure. Otherwise, store your tools and clean up (ref. 27). Widening the cut. Measure and mark (ref. 30) a cutting line parallel to the first cut, extending it down the edge at the starting end of the cut; then, set up a second routing guide (ref. 64). Wearing safety goggles, hearing protection (ref. 25) and respiratory protection (ref. 26), use the router to make a second cut parallel to the first cut, following the procedure used to make it (step 1). When the baseplate butts the stop, move steadily along it to the first routing guide, cutting between the ends of the two cuts perpendicular to them. Then, use the router without a guide the same way to cut any waste material remaining between the two cuts, working from the right to the left side of it and making as many consecutive, parallel cuts as necessary. To deepen the cuts, unplug the router to increase the cutting depth of the bit (ref. 67); then, repeat the procedure, deepening the first cut and the second cut, then cutting any waste material remaining between the two cuts. Otherwise, remove the routing guides and the stop, then finish each side of the corners at the end of the cuts as you would to cut a deep mortise (ref. 72); holding a chisel perpendicular to the surface with its cutting edge aligned along the cutting line just to the waste side and its bevel facing the waste material , strike its handle with a wooden mallet. Then, store your tools and clean up (ref. 27). USING A ROUTER (RABBET CUTS) 1 Preparing to make a cut. Set up the workpiece on a work surface (ref. 17); if necessary, smooth any edge to be cut (ref. 78) so the router can travel easily along it. Prepare to use a router (ref. 65), choosing and installing the right rabbeting bit for the job. Wearing safety goggles, hearing protection (ref. 25) and respiratory protection (ref. 26), plug in the router (ref. 24) and make test cuts using scrap material; if necessary, unplug the router and ad just it. Then, position the router at the left end of the edge with its baseplate resting on the surface and the bit butted against the edge about 1” from the end; if you are cutting more than one edge, start at any edge with end grain. Check the cutting depth of the bit and adjust it, if necessary (ref. 67). Then, pull the router back slightly so the bit is not touching the workpiece and ensure the power cord is out of the way. 2 Making the cut. Grip the router firmly and turn it on. When the bit is turning at full speed, guide the router slowly at a 90-degree angle straight into the edge, keeping the baseplate flat. When the pilot butts the edge and you can push no farther, move steadily to the right along the edge, keeping the pilot butted against it. Watch the bit through the baseplate; it should move easily, throwing off small chips. If the pilot veers away from the edge, steer the router to it. If the bit scorches or powders the wood, move faster. If the bit strains and throws off big chips, move slower; if the bit still strains, turn off and unplug the router, then let the bit cool and decrease its cutting depth (ref. 67). If the router overheats, stop cutting until it cools, then turn off and unplug it to decrease the cutting depth of the bit. If the router vibrates noisily, have it professionally serviced. To finish the cut, guide the router off the end of the edge (above, center), keeping the baseplate flat. Then, tilt the router back, turn it off and let the bit stop. Finish cutting the starting end of the edge the same way, repositioning the router to the right of it and moving steadily to the left along and then off it. To make a cut along any other edge, ensure the bit is tight (ref. 66) and use the same procedure. If necessary, choose and install a straight bit (ref. 66) to widen the cut as you would a groove cut (ref. 68). To deepen the cut, unplug the router to increase the cutting depth of the rabbeting bit, then repeat the procedure. Otherwise, store your tools and clean up (ref. 27). PREPARING TO USE A WOOD CHISEL 1 Inspecting and cleaning a wood chisel. Inspect a chisel before using it. Check that the cutting edge is smooth. To remove a small nick, grind the chisel (step 2); for a nick wider than 1/32 inch, take the chisel for professional regrinding. If the cutting edge is smooth, test it for sharpness by dragging the tip of a fingernail very lightly along it. If your fingernail slides along easily rather than catching, hone the chisel (step 2); also grind it if it has already been honed several times. Check also that the chisel is clean. If the handle is dirty, wipe it using a soft cloth dampened with a solution of mild household detergent and water. To clean stubborn residue off the blade, wear rubber gloves (ref. 25) and use a soft cloth dampened with mineral spirits; to remove rust, use steel wool dampened with light machine oil. Apply a little light machine oil to the blade of a chisel before storing it; wipe it with a soft cloth before using it. 2 Grinding and honing the chisel. To grind or hone a chisel, use a combination waterstone such as a 250-1000 grit model. Soak the waterstone in water for 5 minutes, then set it down on a rubber mat on a work surface; keep the coarse 250-grit surface face up for grinding, the tine 1000-grit surface face up for honing. Before grinding or honing the chisel, set the back of the blade on the waterstone to lap it. Gripping the handle with one hand and pressing the blade flat with your other hand, pull the chisel across the waterstone, stopping before the cutting edge reaches the edge of it. Lift the chisel and lap the back of the blade again several times, then turn it over. To grind the chisel, grip the handle with one hand and press the bevel flat against the 250-grit surface of the waterstone ; or, support the chisel using a grinding and honing guide, following the manufacturer’s instructions to install the chisel at the correct angle in it. Then, draw the chisel across the waterstone, stopping before the cutting edge reaches the edge of it. Lift the chisel and grind it again, continuing until any nick is removed and a thin line of metal is raised along the cut ting edge. Stop periodically to splash water onto the waterstone; rinse it to remove accumulated grit. To remove the thin line of raised metal, turn over the chisel and lap the back again. To hone the chisel, follow the same procedure used to grind it, working with the 1000-grit face of the waterstone. Continue honing the chisel until the angle between the bevel and the back of the blade is uniform and barely visible. Stop periodically to examine the cutting edge under a bright light and to test it for sharpness (step 1). If honing does not sharpen the cutting edge, take the chisel for professional regrinding. USING A WOOD CHISEL (GROOVE CUTS) 1 Cutting a groove. Set up the work- piece on a work surface (ref. 17), then measure and mark (ref. 30) cutting lines on it. Make a series of parallel groove cuts using a circular saw (ref. 50) or a backsaw (ref. 60). Prepare to use a wood chisel (ref. 70), then use it to score the bottom of the groove at each end. Holding the chisel perpendicular to the edge with its bevel facing the waste material, align its cutting edge with the depth line just to the waste side. Strike the handle of the chisel sharply using a wooden mallet. Score the entire bottom of the groove along the depth line the same way. Start at the center of the groove to cut the waste material. Holding the chisel at the top of its blade, position it at a 60-degree angle to the surface with its bevel facing the waste material. Resting the heel of your hand on the surface to guide the chisel, strike its handle gently with the mallet. Work to one end of the groove using the same procedure, repositioning the chisel 1/4 to 1/2” at a time. Starting again at the center of the groove, work to the other end the same way. If necessary, pare the bottom or sides of the groove (ref. 73). Otherwise, store your tools and clean up (ref. 27). USING A WOOD CHISEL (MORTISES) Cutting a shallow mortise. Set up the workpiece on a work surface (ref. 17), then measure and mark (ref. 30) cutting lines on it. For a depth greater than 1/2 inch, cut a deep mortise (step below). Otherwise, prepare to use a wood chisel (ref. 70), then use it to score each side of the mortise; to avoid scoring too deeply, mark a depth line on the back of its blade with a straightedge and a sharp pencil. Holding the chisel perpendicular to the surface with its bevel facing the waste material, align its cutting edge with a cutting line just to the waste side. Strike the handle of the chisel sharply using a wooden mallet until the depth line is aligned with the surface. Score the entire side of the mortise along the cutting line the same way. Work with the cutting edge of the chisel perpendicular to the wood grain to cut the waste material, starting about 3/8” from the side at one end of the mortise. Holding the chisel at a 60-degree angle to the surface with its bevel facing the waste material, strike its handle gently with the mallet; watch the depth line on the back of its blade to keep from cutting too deeply. Use the same procedure to work from one side to the other side across and along the mortise, repositioning the chisel about 3/8” at a time. To cut the waste material along the side at the other end of the mortise, orient the chisel toward it about 3/8” from the scored line and work the same way. If necessary, pare the bottom or sides of the mortise (ref. 73). Otherwise, store your tools and clean up (ref. 27). Cutting a deep mortise. Set up the workpiece on a work surface (ref. 17), then measure and mark (ref. 30) cutting lines on it. For a depth up to 1/2 inch, cut a shallow mortise. Otherwise, prepare to use a wood chisel (ref. 70), then use it to score each side of the mortise. Holding the chisel perpendicular to the surface with its bevel facing the waste material, align its cutting edge with a cutting line just to the waste side. Strike the handle of the chisel sharply using a wooden mallet. Score the entire side of the mortise along the cutting line the same way. Use a drill (ref. 100) to bore a series of holes in the waste material equal to the depth of the mortise; choose as large a bit as possible without its diameter exceeding the width of the mortise and mark the depth of the mortise on it with masking tape. To cut the remaining waste material, work from one side to the center of the mortise. Holding the chisel perpendicular to the surface with its bevel facing the waste material, align its cutting edge with a scored line and strike its handle gently with the mallet. Use the same procedure to work in turn from each other side to the center of the mortise. If necessary, pare the bottom or sides of the mortise (ref. 73). Otherwise, store your tools and clean up (ref. 27). USING A WOOD CHISEL (PARING) Paring the bottom of a mortise or groove. To pare the bottom of a mortise or groove, use a wood chisel; work with its cutting edge perpendicular to the wood grain. Holding the chisel by its handle with one hand, position it at a 60-degree angle to the surface with its bevel flat on the bottom of the mortise or groove and its cutting edge against the waste material. If the chisel is obstructed, scrape the bottom of the mortise or groove (step below, left). Otherwise, grip the top of the blade with your other hand and rest its heel on the surface to guide the chisel. Pressing against the blade, push the handle firmly to cut the waste material. If necessary, pare the bottom of a groove further using the chisel. Holding the chisel by its handle in the palm of one hand with your thumb and forefinger extended, position it horizontally with the back of its blade flat on the bottom of the groove and its cutting edge against the waste material. Use your other hand to guide the chisel, pressing against the blade with your thumb. Then, push the top of the handle gently with the palm of your hand, using smooth strokes to cut the waste material. If necessary, pare the sides of the mortise or groove (step below, right). Otherwise, store your tools and clean up (ref. 27). Scraping the bottom of a mortise or groove. To scrape the bottom of a mortise or groove, use a wood chisel; work with its cutting edge perpendicular to the wood grain. Holding the chisel by its handle with one hand, position it at a 60-degree angle to the surface with the back of its blade facing the waste material. Grip the top of the blade with your other hand and rest its heel on the surface to guide the chisel. Pressing against the blade, pull the handle firmly, dragging the cutting edge smoothly along the bottom of the mortise or groove to cut the waste material. If necessary, pare the sides of the mortise or groove (step right). Otherwise, store your tools and clean up (ref. 27). Paring the sides of a mortise or groove. To pare the sides of a mortise or groove, use a wood chisel. Holding the chisel by its handle in the palm of one hand with your thumb and forefinger extended, position it perpendicular to the surface with its bevel facing the waste material and its cutting edge aligned with the side of the mortise or groove. Use your other hand to guide the chisel, pressing against the blade with your thumb. Then, push the top of the handle gently with the palm of your hand, cutting the waste material. If necessary, pare the bottom of the mortise or groove. Otherwise, store your tools and clean up (ref. 27). USING A MASONRY CHISEL Choosing and inspecting a masonry chisel. Choose the right masonry chisel for the job; types with wide blades are called brick chisels. Use a chisel with a cutting edge equal to or greater than the cut you are making; if one is not available, use a circular saw (ref. 50). Inspect a chisel before using it. If the handle or the blade is damaged, discard the chisel. The blade of the chisel should have a smooth, sharp cutting edge, its bevels tapered evenly into a point; otherwise, take the chisel for professional regrinding. Check also that the chisel is clean. To clean off dirt, use a soft cloth dampened with a solution of household detergent and water; for stubborn residue, use a soft cloth dampened with mineral spirits. To remove rust, wear work gloves (ref. 25) arid use steel wool dampened with light machine oil. Apply a little light machine oil to the blade of a chisel before storing it; wipe it with a soft cloth before using it. Cutting a concrete block. Set up the workpiece on a work surface (ref. 17) protected with plywood, if necessary. Have extra blocks on hand; a clean cut can take more than one try. To cut the block along a factory-scored line or perforation on its webs, choose a chisel and inspect it (step left); otherwise, first measure and mark (ref. 30) a cutting line on the top, bottom and each side of the block, then score along each cutting line as you would the top and bottom of a brick (step below). Wearing safety goggles and work gloves (ref. 25), hold the chisel perpendicular to the surface and align the cutting edge with a scored line, then tap the handle using a hand drilling hammer (ref. 116); let its weight do the work. Use the same procedure on each scored line, then turn over the block and work the same way; continue until it cuts cleanly. If the block does not cut cleanly, repeat the procedure. Otherwise, store your tools and clean up (ref. 27). Cutting a brick. Set up the workpiece on a work surface (ref. 17) protected with plywood, if necessary. Have extra bricks on hand; a clean cut can take more than one try. Measure and mark (ref. 30) a cutting line on the top and bottom of the brick, then choose a chisel and inspect it (step above, left). Wearing safety goggles and work gloves (ref. 25), start at one end of the cutting line to score along it. Holding the chisel at a 45-degree angle to the surface, align a corner of the cutting edge with the cutting line and tap the handle using a hand drilling hammer, scoring to a depth of at least 1/8” (far left). Work to the other end of the cutting line using the same procedure, then turn over the brick and score along the other cutting line the same way. To cut the brick, hold the chisel perpendicular to the surface and align the cutting edge with the scored line; then, strike the handle once sharply with the hammer (near left). If the brick does not cut cleanly, repeat the procedure. Otherwise, store your tools and clean up (ref. 27). USING TIN SNIPS Choosing and inspecting tin snips. Choose the right tin snips for the job. For most straight or curved cuts in sheet metal, the straight, aviation type of tin snips with compound leverage action is easiest to use; for clean cuts in thick metal or along tight curves, the left- or right-oriented type is best. The straight conventional type of tin snips can be used for straight or wide-curved cuts, but it can be difficult to manipulate. Specialty types of tin snips are also available. Inspect a tin snips before using it. The blades should spring apart easily when the handles are released. If the pivot bolt is loose, tighten it; with the aviation type shown, use wrenches. If the blades are dull, take the tin snips for professional sharpening. If the grips of the handles are dirty, clean them using a soft cloth dampened with a solution of mild household detergent and water. Periodically lubricate each pivot point of the tin snips using light machine oil. To remove rust from the blades, wear work gloves (ref. 25) and use steel wool dampened with light machine oil. Apply a little light machine oil to the blades of a tin snips before storing it; wipe it with a soft cloth before using it. Making a straight or curved cut. Set up the workpiece on a work surface (ref. 17); measure and mark (ref. 30) a cutting line on it. Prepare to use a tin snips. Wearing safety goggles and work gloves (ref. 25), position the tin snips at one end of the cutting line and align the cutting edges of the blades with it just to the waste side. Holding the waste material out of the way, squeeze the handles together to close the blades, then release the handles to open the blades and reposition the cutting edges; to avoid dimpling or tearing the metal, don't close the blades completely. Continue cutting along the cutting line the same way. Use the same procedure along a curve, cutting slowly only a little at a time; to avoid dimpling or tearing the metal along a tight curve, change to a matching left- or right-oriented type of aviation tin snips. Store your tools and clean up (ref. 27). Making an interior cut. Set up the workpiece on a work surface (ref. 17); measure and mark (ref. 30) a cutting line on it. Prepare to use a tin snips. Use a drill (ref. 100) to make a starting hole large enough for a blade near the cutting line on the waste side. Wearing safety goggles and work gloves (ref. 25), fit the blade into the hole and cut as wide a curve as possible to the cutting line, then slowly a little at a time along it just to the waste side. Holding the waste material out of the way, squeeze the handles together to close the blades, then release the handles to open the blades and reposition the cutting edges; to avoid dimpling or tearing the metal, don't close the blades completely. To avoid dimpling or tearing the metal along a tight curve, change to a matching left- or right-oriented type of aviation tin snips. Store your tools and clean up (ref. 27). USING A PIPE OR TUBING CUTTER Cutting wheel Cutting pipe or tubing. Set up the workpiece on a work surface (ref. 17); measure and mark (ref. 30) a cutting line on it. Choose a pipe or tubing cutter of an appropriate size with the correct cutting wheel for the material; if the wheel is dull or damaged, replace it. Wearing safety goggles (ref. 25), fit the jaws around the pipe and align the cutting wheel with the cutting line. Keeping the cutter perpendicular to the pipe, turn the handle to tighten the rollers. Rotate the cutter once around the pipe, ensuring the cutting wheel is aligned correctly. If necessary, loosen the rollers to reposition the cutting wheel, then repeat the procedure. If the cutting wheel still veers from the cutting line, it may be dull; replace it and repeat the procedure. Otherwise, tighten the rollers and rotate the cutter, continuing until the pipe is cut. To deburr the inside cut edges, use a file (ref. 88) or ream the pipe; on the cutter shown, there is a built-in reamer that pulls out. Insert the reamer into the cut end of the pipe, then rotate the cutter several times to deburr it. Store your tools and clean up (ref. 27). USING A UTILITY KNIFE 1 Inspecting and changing a blade. Choose the right blade for the job: a standard type for most scoring or cut ting; a hooked type for cutting materials such as linoleum. If the blade is dull or damaged, replace it. To change the blade of a utility knife, unscrew the handle and separate the sections, then carefully lift it out. Before disposing of a blade, wrap masking tape around it. To install a new blade, fit its notches onto the interior projections, then reassemble the handle. 2 Making a cut. Set up the workpiece on a work surface (ref. 17); measure and mark (ref. 30) a cutting line on it. Wearing work gloves (ref. 25), use a utility knife to score or cut from one end to the other end along the cutting line. With a standard blade, align the cutting edge with the cutting line just to the waste side, then position a metal straightedge along it just opposite to the waste side; butt the straightedge against the blade. Holding the straightedge steady with your fingers out of the way, draw the utility knife along it, keeping the blade butted against it. To score lightly, hold the handle at a low angle to the surface and apply light pressure; to cut deeply, hold the handle at a high angle to the surface and apply moderate pressure. If necessary, repeat the procedure, pressing the blade deeper. With a hooked blade, align the cutting edge the same way; then, draw the utility knife along the cutting line, holding the waste material out of the way. Store your tools and clean up (ref. 27). USING A GLASS CUTTER Making a straight cut. Set up the workpiece on a work surface (ref. 17) padded with newspapers or old carpeting; measure and mark (ref. 30) the end points of a cutting line on it using a china marker. Prepare to use a glass cutter, lubricating its cutting wheel with a little light machine oil. Wearing work gloves and safety goggles (ref. 25), position the cutting wheel at one end point just to the waste side, then align a straightedge with each end point just opposite to the waste side; butt the straightedge against the cutting wheel. To score the cutting line, hold the straightedge steady with your fingers out of the way and draw the cutter along it in one continuous stroke, keeping the cutting wheel butted against it; don't roll the cutting wheel back and forth. Slow the cutter as you reach the other end point to avoid chipping the edge of the glass. USING A TILE NIPPER Making a curved cut. Set up the workpiece on a work surface (ref. 17), then measure and mark (ref. 30) a cutting line on it. Wearing safety goggles (ref. 25), use a tile nipper to remove the waste material. Hold the tile with one hand and use the nippers to notch an edge of the waste material, positioning the tips of blades around it and squeezing the handles. Starting at the notch, work with the nippers to bite off one small chip of the waste material at a time; if there is a large amount of waste material, bite off large chips of it until you are near the cutting line, then bite off small chips of it until you reach the cutting line. Then, store your tools and clean up (ref. 27). Carefully raise the glass enough to tap the bottom of it along the scored line with the end of the cutter handle. Then, position a wooden dowel at least as long as the scored line directly under it. Positioning your hands on opposite sides of the scored line at the same distance from it, apply balanced, uniform pressure straight down to snap the glass cleanly along it (above, center). If there is too little waste material to snap off using a dowel or if waste material remains along the snapped edge, use the cutter notches to break it off one small piece at a time. Fit a notch of an appropriate size onto an edge of the waste material and snap downward, breaking off a piece. Continue breaking off pieces of the waste material the same way until you reach the scored line; avoid trying to break off a large piece at one time. Then, store your tools and clean up (ref. 27). Making a straight cut near an edge. Set up the workpiece on a work surface (ref. 17), then measure and mark (ref. 30) a cutting line on it. Wearing safety goggles (ref. 25), first score the cutting line using a glass cutter equipped with a carbide-type cutting wheel; press down firmly to break the glaze of the tile with as few strokes of the cutting wheel as possible. Then, use a tile nipper to remove the waste material. Holding the tile with one hand, work with the full blade length to bite off pieces of the waste material up to the scored line. Continue biting off pieces of the waste material along the scored line the same way. Then, store your tools and clean up (ref. 27). Previous: Measuring and Marking |