| HOME | Troubleshooting | DIY Tips |
|
REPAIRING SOLID-DISC BURNER ELEMENTS 1. Accessing a solid-disc element. Disconnect power to the range and lift and prop the cooktop. If there are screws under the front edge of the range top, behind the oven door, remove them before raising the top. Remove the nuts or screws securing the support pan or bracket under the element; you may also have to disconnect a green or copper ground wire. Set the bracket aside. 2. Testing a solid-disc element. Unscrew the wires from the element’s terminals, as shown, and pull the element out through the top of the range (inset). Set a multitester at RX1 and touch a probe to each terminal. The needle should sweep partially upscale, showing some resistance. Test for a ground by placing one probe on a terminal and the other on the element’s metal sheath; the multitester needle should not move. If the element fails either test, replace it. Insert the new element through the top, screw the wires firmly to the terminals, and replace the support pan or bracket. TESTING AND REPLACING BURNER ELEMENT SWITCHES 1 Testing a burner switch. Disconnect the power and gain access to the range controls and switches (44). Replace any switch with an obvious mechanical problem, such as a jam med button (step 2). Check the switch wires for loose connections. If the switch terminals are damaged, replace the switch and any burned wire terminals (136). If there is no visible damage, test the switch for continuity. The power-supply wires are attached to terminals marked L1 and L2 (and a terminal marked N on some switches). Wires leading to the burner element are marked Hi and H2 (or just numbered). Turn on a working switch and test each power-supply terminal, in turn, against each burner-element terminal in the switch position that does not heat; disconnect one wire in each pair being tested. Then test the suspect switch; if the results don’t match, replace it. 2 Removing the switch. To remove a rotary switch, pull off the control knob and remove the two screws holding the switch to the control panel, as shown. Pull the switch out through the back. If a glass panel covers the screws, first pull off all the control knobs and check for clips or trim pieces at the top or sides of the panel ( you may have to raise the fluorescent light cover). Unclip the panel or unscrew the trim pieces, and lift out the panel. Pushbutton switches may be trimmed by a removable panel that covers the mounting screws; unfasten the clips holding the panel and pry it off. Remove the switch screws (inset) and lift out the switch through the back. 3 Replacing the switch. Leave the wires connected to the old switch while you buy a replacement part with exactly the same part number (if you leave the control panel disassembled, leave a note taped to it warning other members of the household not to reconnect the power). Replace the switch in one of two ways: Transfer the wires from the old switch to the same terminals on the new switch one by one. Or, after labeling the position of each wire with masking tape, disconnect all the wires from the old switch, and connect them to the new switch. Screw the new switch to the control panel and replace the control panel cover, trim and control knobs. REPLACING OVEN ELEMENTS 1 Dismounting the oven element. Bake and broil elements are tested and replaced in the same way. Disconnect power to the range. For easy access to the oven, remove the door (44). Remove the screws or nuts that fasten the element to the back of the oven (above). The element may also have a front support bracket; unscrew it if necessary. Gently pull the element forward a few inches to expose its wiring. If the capillary tube is in the way of the broil element, unclip the tube from its support without bending it (51). Caution: In self-cleaning ovens, the tube contains a caustic fluid—wear rubber gloves and use caution when handling it. 2 Disconnecting the element. Label the wire positions with masking tape and unscrew them from the element terminals, as shown. Avoid bending the terminals. Don’t allow the wires to fall back through the opening—otherwise, the range must be pulled out from the wall and opened to retrieve them. Check the wire connectors for burns; if damaged, cut them off and replace them (136). Remove the element from the oven. Some older models have plug-in elements that can be pulled out rather than unscrewed. 3 Testing and replacing the oven element. With a multitester set at RX1, touch a probe to each of the element terminals (far left); there should be only partial resistance. If not, replace the element with a new one of the same wattage. Next, test for a ground with one probe on a terminal and the other on the metal sheath of the element (near left); the multitester needle should not move. If the element fails either of these tests, replace it. To install a new element, reconnect the wires to the element terminals and screw the rear support bracket firmly in place for proper grounding. Reattach the sup port bracket if necessary and make sure the capillary tube is properly seated in its clips. CHECKING AND ADJUSTING OVEN TEMPERATURE Checking and cleaning the oven vent. The vent helps control the circulation of air in the oven—and therefore the oven temperature—by conducting hot air through a duct under a burner, usually the right rear element. Disconnect power to the range. Pull out the burner, or raise it out of the way, and remove the drip pan. Lift out the vent duct as shown, to expose the vent— you may need to unscrew the duct first. Clean the vent and wash the duct in hot, soapy water. When replacing the duct, be sure its opening will line up with the hole in the drip pan before screwing it in position. Replace the drip pan and burner. Testing oven temperature. Place an oven thermometer in the center of the oven and set the temperature control switch at 350°F . Wait 20 minutes, then check the thermometer. Take three more readings, one every 10 minutes. Add the readings and divide by four; the average should be 350°F. If your result is off by 25°F or less, the control is normal; by 25°F to 50°F, recalibrate it (next step). If off by more than 50°F, replace the control (51). Checking the capillary tube. Clipped to the inside of the oven, the capillary tube senses oven temperature and is adjusted by the oven temperature control. If the tube touches the oven wall, reposition it in its support clips. If it’s broken, both the tube and the temperature control switch must be replaced (51). Caution: In self-cleaning ovens, the tube contains caustic chemicals. Wear rubber gloves and avoid bending the tube when handling it. If you should get the contents on your skin, rub it off with a dry towel before washing with mild soap and water. Calibrating the temperature control. Pull the knob off the oven temperature control. If the back of the knob has a ring with marks indicating “Raise” and “Lower”, turn the knob to move the ring, (above, left); you may first have to loosen two screws on the ring. If the calibration device is mounted on the range under the knob, turn off the power, then loosen the screws to adjust the shaft. Give the shaft one-eighth of a turn to the right to lower the temperature, or to the left to raise it. Check the temperature again after calibration. If calibration doesn’t work, replace the temperature control (51). TESTING AND REPLACING THE OVEN TEMPERATURE CONTROL 1 Testing the temperature control. Turn off power to the range and open the control panel (44). If any of the temperature control terminals are discolored or burned, replace the temperature control. Next, test the control for continuity. If it has more than two terminals, refer to the wiring diagram—on the rear panel, or inside the storage drawer or control panel—for the correct pairs of terminals to test. Disconnect one wire of the pair, clip a tester probe to each terminal, and turn the switch to 300°F. If any of the circuits don’t show continuity, replace the temperature control. 2 Removing the capillary tube. This tube leads from the temperature control into the oven. Gently unclip the tube from the supports in the oven and push it through the hole in the rear wall, as shown; you may have to loosen a screw that secures a baffle over the hole and slide the baffle aside. From the back of the range, pull the tube completely out of the oven (inset). Caution: In self-cleaning ovens, the tube is filled with caustic chemicals. Wear goggles and rubber gloves, and avoid bending the tube. If you should get the contents on your skin, rub it off with a dry towel before washing with mild soap and water. 3 Removing and replacing the temperature control. Unscrew the two temperature control screws in front and remove the control from the back of the range, as shown. Label the positions of the wires and disconnect them from the control. Replace or splice any burned wire connectors (136). To install a new temperature control, connect the wires to the terminals and screw the new switch to the control panel. Push the capillary tube gently into the oven through the back, taking care not to bend or kink it, and clip it into its supports. Replace the rear panel, the front panel and the control knobs. Before replacing the knob, check that the calibration ring is centered. If not, reset it (50). TESTING AND REPLACING THE OVEN SELECTOR SWITCH 1 Testing the oven selector switch. Since it controls the bake, broil, timed bake and clean functions, a broken selector switch can cause any of these cycles not to work. Disconnect power to the range and open the control panel (44). Replace the switch if any terminals are burned. Test the switch for continuity; the correct pairs of terminals to test for each switch setting are indicated on the wiring diagram. Disconnect one wire from each pair of terminals being tested, and check for continuity at each position of the switch, as shown. Replace the switch if it fails the test. 2 Replacing the oven selector switch. Remove the screws from the front of the control panel and pull the switch out from the back, as shown. Label the wires and disconnect them. Replace or splice any burned or corroded wire connectors (136). To install a new switch, connect the wires to the terminals and screw the switch securely to the control panel to ensure proper grounding. Reassemble the control panel. CHECKING AND REPLACING THE CLOCK 1. Dismounting the clock. Disconnect power to the range and open the control panel (44). Check the wires to the clock terminals for loose connections. In many models, the clock is held to the back of the control panel by spring clips. Use the flat edge of a screwdriver to push in the clips, as shown. Screws or nuts may hold the clock to the back of the range; on some models, you must remove the temperature control switch and selector switch mounting screws, which fasten the clock bracket to the control panel. On others, you must unscrew the control panel to reach the clock mounting screws or nuts. 2 Replacing the clock. Remove the clock by pulling it out through the front of the range, as shown. (On some models, the clock is taken out through the back.) Label and disconnect the wires, or transfer the wires to the new clock one by one. Install a new clock by pushing it through the front of the control panel and snapping or screwing it into place. Screws must be attached securely to ensure proper grounding. Reassemble the control panel. SERVICING THE OVEN LIGHT, SWITCH AND SOCKET Replacing the oven light bulb. In ovens with a wire protector or a glass shield covering the bulb, first disconnect power to the range. Pull down the wire protector, or unscrew the glass shield, as shown. Unscrew the bulb, using a dry cloth to protect your hand. If the bulb breaks in the socket, be sure the power is disconnected before removing the remnants with long-nose pliers. Screw in a regular 40-watt bulb; it works, the problem is simply a burned-out bulb. Replace it with an appliance bulb of the same size and wattage. If not, check the switch or the socket. Testing and replacing a door-operated light switch. Disconnect power to the range and open the oven door. Pry out the switch, pushing in the spring clips with a screwdriver (above). To test the switch, disconnect the wires and clip a continuity tester to each terminal (inset). With the switch plunger in, there should be no continuity; when released, the switch should show continuity. If it fails the test, replace the switch. Attach the wires to the new switch and snap it into place. Replacing an oven light socket. Some light sockets are removed through the back of the range. With the power disconnected, remove the rear panel (44). The socket’s ceramic base has spring clips; use a screwdriver to push in the clips, then pull out the socket, as shown. On some models, you must first unscrew a socket assembly, and then push the socket out of the assembly. Disconnect the wires, insert a new socket and reconnect the wires. In other ranges, the light socket is accessible through the oven. Disconnect the power. Unscrew the socket assembly and pull it into the oven (inset). Disconnect the wires and release the socket by squeezing locking tabs on each side. Snap in a new socket, connect the wires, and replace the assembly. Testing and replacing a panel-mounted light switch. Disconnect power to the range and open the control panel (44). Remove one wire from the light switch and clip one multitester probe to each terminal. With the switch off there should be no continuity. Flip the switch on; the tester should show continuity. To replace a faulty switch, press in the spring clips with a screwdriver (inset). Push the switch out through the front of the range. Disconnect the wires; cut them if they are permanently attached. Cut or splice the wires to the new switch (136) and snap it into place. CHECKING AND REPLACING A RANGE FUSE Replacing a range fuse. The fuse, usually found under the left or right front element, protects the lights, clock and appliance receptacle from excessive current. Disconnect power to the range. Pull out the element, or raise it out of the way, and remove the drip pan. Open the fuse cover and unscrew the fuse (above, left). In some ranges, there are fuses above the control panel, under the fluorescent light cover (above, center), or in the top of the storage drawer. Inspect the fuse; a blackened window or broken metal strip means the fuse is blown. If in doubt, test a fuse with a continuity tester (above, right). If the tester does not light, the fuse is blown; insert a new one of the same rating. Close the fuse cover and replace the drip pan and element. Some ranges have small circuit breakers on the control panel instead. Check your owner’s manual for the location of fuses. SERVICING AN APPLIANCE RECEPTACLE Checking and dismounting the receptacle. The appliance receptacle operates on the 120- volt circuit within the range. If it doesn’t work, first check the range fuse. If the receptacle is a timed type, make sure that the timer is properly set; refer to your owner’s manual. To check the receptacle, turn off the power and open the control panel (44). Inspect the wiring and terminals for burns and corrosion, and tighten loose connections. To remove the receptacle, push in the spring clips on each side with a screwdriver (above, left) and pull the receptacle out through the front of the range (above, right). Label and disconnect the wires. Snap in a new receptacle and attach the gray or white wire to the silver-colored terminal, and the black or red wire to the brass-colored terminal. Make sure the green ground wire is connected to the range. If your replacement receptacle has wires already attached, cut the wires to the old receptacle and splice them to the new wires (136). ADJUSTING THE OVEN DOOR 1 Loosening the oven door panels. The oven door can become warped over time, resulting in a poor seal. Discoloration or traces of soot around the door indicate that heat is escaping from the oven. Before adjusting a removable door (44), check that it’s seated properly on its hinges. To adjust the door, first turn off power to the range. Open the door and loosen—but don’t remove—the screws that secure the inner door panel to the outer panel, as shown. You may also have to loosen screws on the door handle and around the edge of the outer panel. 2 Adjusting the door fit. Holding the door at the top, twist it gently from side to side to straighten it. On oven doors with a glass front or a window, be careful to shift the door only slightly. Partially tighten the door screws. Check the seal by pressing the top corners of the door against the oven. You may have to adjust the door several times for a good fit. Tighten the screws securely but don’t overtighten—the porcelain could chip. ADJUSTING THE OVEN DOOR SPRINGS Adjusting cabinet-mounted springs. Turn off power to the range and remove the oven door (44). Hinge arms that protrude from the door indicate door-mounted springs, described at right. Otherwise, the springs are cabinet-mounted, as shown. Pull out the lower storage drawer. If you can’t find the springs on each side of the cabinet, remove the side panels or call for service. (The springs on wall ovens and slide-in ranges are usually not accessible.) If one spring is broken, replace both. Wearing safety goggles, lift and unhook the hinge end, as shown; if the spring is very stiff, grasp it with locking pliers. To increase the door tension, re-hook the spring into a lower hole on the hinge assembly; to decrease the hook it into a higher hole. Repeat with the other spring. Replace the door; if the tension is incorrect, readjust the springs. Adjusting door-mounted springs. Remove the oven door (44). Remove the screws on the inner door panel and along the edges of the outer panel. You may also have to remove the door handle. There may be tabs on one panel that fit into slots in the other; use a screw driver to pry up the tabs (above, left). Starting at the top, lift the inner panel free. Remove any insulation covering the springs. Lay the door on a table or the floor and inspect the springs; if a spring is worn or broken, replace both. Wearing safety goggles, unhook one end of the spring and insert it into the next hole in the hinge assembly. If the spring is stiff, brace the door with your hand or foot and use locking pliers to pry up one end of the spring and re-hook it firmly in place (above, right). Reassemble the door. REPLACING AN OVEN GASKET (Cabinet-mounted ovens) 1 Checking the oven gasket. The gasket on many ovens is a simple rubber channel clipped onto the cabinet. To replace this gasket, disengage the damaged section by hand and hook a new one in place, as shown. Other cabinet-mounted gaskets are clamped between the oven liner and the range cabinet (step 2). 2 Removing the oven retaining screws. To remove a gasket clamped between the oven liner and the range cabinet, you must free the oven liner and pull it forward. Disconnect power to the range and remove the oven door to make the job easier. Check around the front edge of the oven for screws or clips holding the oven liner in place; remove them as above and proceed to step 4. If there are no screws, the oven liner is probably fastened at the back (step 3). 3 Loosening the oven liner bolts. Disconnect power to the range and pull it away from the wall. Unscrew the back panel (44). Check for two bolts that protrude from the back of the range, one at each side (above). If you can’t find them, call a service technician to replace the gasket. Loosen the nuts on the bolts about a quarter of an inch. 4 Removing and replacing the gasket. Pull out the oven liner slightly by rocking it back and forth. Disengage the gasket from between the liner and cabinet, as shown. Position the lip of a new gasket behind the rim of the oven liner. Push the oven liner back into place and either replace the screws at the front or tighten the nuts at the back. Replace the oven door or rear panel. REPLACING A DOOR-MOUNTED GASKET ( self-cleaning ovens ) 1 Separating the door panels. On self-cleaning ovens, the gasket is held between the panels of the oven door and can be removed only by disassembling the door. Turn off power to the range, unscrew the door-hinge arms and take off the door. Remove the screws on the inner panel and along the outer edges of the door, as shown. You may also have to remove the door handle. There may be tabs on the outer panel that fit into slots in the inner panel; use a screwdriver to pry them apart if necessary. Starting at the top, lift off the inner panel and window assembly. 2. Removing the door window. Position the inner door panel with the gasket facing down. Remove the screws that hold the window assembly to the panel, as shown. On some models, you must first remove a metal window shield and a layer of insulation to reach the window assembly. Lift off the window assembly to reveal the gasket attachment. 3. Removing and replacing the gasket. The gasket fits between the window assembly and the inner door panel. If it’s held by clips, unscrew them and slip out the gasket. Install a new gasket under the clips and tighten the screws. If the gasket is held between the window assembly and the door panel, just lift the gasket oft ( you may first have to unhook it from a bracket). Position the new gasket with the small bead, or edge, at the panel edge and hook the two ends to the bracket, as shown. Screw the window assembly and the door panel together loosely. 4. Adjusting the gasket. A loose-fitting gasket can be adjusted by using the flat edge of a screwdriver to wedge the excess between the door panel and window assembly. Starting at the top of the door, push the gasket in with the screwdriver, as shown, tightening the screws together as you go. Replace the insulation and refasten the window shield if the door has one. Screw the inner and outer door panels back together and replace the door on its hinges. If necessary, adjust the fit of the oven door (55). SERVICING THE RANGE HOOD (Fan-type) Light Fan motor Support bracket Fan blade Fan switch Light switch Grease filter 1 Removing the fan. Disconnect power to the range hood. To get at the fan, first remove the aluminum grease filter, which is secured by clips. Wash the filter in hot, soapy water or in the dishwasher. Do this weekly or after cooking any greasy food; replace the filter annually. To release the fan, remove the screws that hold the support bracket to the housing. 2 Cleaning the fan. Holding the fan assembly by its support bracket, lower it from the housing, as shown. Wash the fan blades with a soapy cloth and dry them thoroughly. Wipe the motor with a dry cloth. With a soapy cloth, wipe the interior of the hood and as much of the ductwork as you can reach to remove grease and dirt. At the sat-ne time, check for any obstructions which may be hindering the operation of the fan. 3 Oiling the motor shaft. Even for permanently lubricated motors, a few drops of machine oil will improve efficiency. Hold the fan by the support bracket. Put a few drops of oil on the rear motor shaft. To reassemble, position the fan assembly in the housing, screw the support bracket in place and slide in the grease filter. RANGE HOOD (Squirrel-cage) 1 Removing the grease filters and blower assembly. Disconnect power to the range hood. Pull out the aluminum grease filters and wash them out in hot, soapy water or in the dishwasher. Remove the screws at each side of the cover and remove it to expose the blower assembly. Unplug the motor (above). Supporting the blower assembly with one hand, loosen, but don’t remove, the mounting rod nuts on each side (inset). Move the rods out of the brackets and lower the blower assembly. 2 Servicing the blower wheels. Using a hex wrench, remove the setscrews holding the blower wheels to the motor shaft. Grip the other end of the shaft with locking pliers, the jaws covered with I masking tape to protect the shaft. Slide the wheels off the shaft, handling them carefully; the aluminum blades are easily damaged. Wash the wheels in hot, soapy water or in the dishwasher. Replace them on the motor shaft and tighten the screws. 3 Reinstalling the blower assembly. First use a soapy cloth to clean the interior of the range hood and as much of the ductwork as you can reach. Lift the blower assembly into position under the range hood (above). Be sure to align the discharge vent of the assembly with the duct opening. Slip the mounting rods into the brackets and tighten the nuts by hand. Plug in the motor. Screw the blower assembly cover in place and reinsert the filters. Prev: FREEZERS Next: GAS RANGES Home top of page |