Fix-it-Yourself--Major Appliances: FREEZERS

Freezers are very similar to refrigerators in design and operation. Some even share the special features—automatic defrost, energy-saver switch—of top-of-the-line refrigerators. Upright freezers, especially, may have door hinges, gaskets, leveling feet, drainage systems, condenser fans and temperature controls more similar to those of a refrigerator than to the chest freezer pictured below. Consult the refrigerator Troubleshooting Guide (15) to diagnose problems with these components.

The evaporator coils and condenser coils of chest freezers are usually embedded in the cabinet, inaccessible to the home fixer. The door hinges and gasket differ from those of an upright model; so do the location of, and access to, the temperature control and compressor components.

The power indicator light, a safety feature common to most freezers, glows when there is sufficient current to the machine. The light goes off to alert you to an unplugged power cord, blown fuse or tripped circuit breaker, or general power outage. However, the light cannot tell you whether the freezer temperature is low enough to keep food frozen. When in doubt, test the freezer temperature (22); it should be about 0°F.

If the power goes out, food will keep (though not necessarily frozen) for 24 to 36 hours in a closed freezer. To store food longer, pack the freezer with dry ice (frozen carbon dioxide), protecting the food with a blanket or newspapers. If you must remove food briefly to work on the machine, place it in the bathtub, layered with newspaper and dry ice. Don’t allow the dry ice to touch the food.

Defrost the freezer as needed, normally once or twice a year. Unplug the machine, take out the food and allow the ice to melt. To speed the job, use a hair dryer or place a pan of hot water in the freezer and close the door. Wash the freezer interior with a solution of baking soda and water. For better efficiency and longer life, don’t locate a freezer near a heat source such as a basement furnace, and never put hot foods in the freezer. Always disconnect the power and discharge the capacitor, if any, before starting a ‘repair.

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CHEST FREEZER

Gasket--Pressure-type; weight of door maintains seal.

Compressor--Pumps refrigerant through the cooling system.

Temperature control--Turns compressor on and off to maintain temperature.

Compressor compartment cover--There may be access openings at the side and back.

Power indicator light--Signals that power to freezer is on; goes out if machine is unplugged or power fails.

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REMOVING THE DOOR HINGES

Removing a rod-type hinge. Unplug the freezer and use a socket wrench to unscrew the bolts holding each hinge to the freezer cabinet (above, left). Lift the door and hinges off the cabinet (above, right). To replace the door, insert the hinge rods in the holes, align the door with the freezer cabinet and tighten the hinge bolts.

Removing a spring-type hinge. Unplug the freezer and remove the screws securing each hinge to the freezer cabinet (above, left). Hold the hinge so that it doesn’t snap up. Don’t remove the hinge screws from the freezer door. Lift the door and hinges off the freezer cabinet (above, right). To replace the door, align the hinges against the cabinet, and replace and tighten the screws.

CHANGING THE BREAKER STRIPS AND GASKET

Replacing breaker strips. Unplug the freezer, open the door and cover the contents with newspapers or a blanket. Snap out the corner bracket at each end (above, left); if stiff, use a hair dryer set on LOW to warm them slightly. Snap out the breaker strip with your hands (above, right) or pry it off with a putty knife padded with masking tape. If the insulation below is dry, snap in a new breaker strip and replace the corner brackets. If damp, leave it uncovered to dry, and remove the freezer contents to cold storage.

Replacing the gasket. Unplug the freezer. Remove the door, spread a blanket over the freezer and lay the door upside down on top of it. Soak the new gasket in warm water to soften it. If the gasket is held in place by plastic studs (inset), use a putty knife padded with masking tape to pry them out, three or four at a time, inserting the new gasket as you go.

If the gasket is screwed in place (above), remove several screws at a time, pull out the old gasket and insert the new one. Replace the screws loosely, then tighten them all. Reinstall the door.