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STEP-BY-STEP TROUBLESHOOTING BY SYMPTOM DIAGNOSIS
Compressor won’t run; no ice in storage bin: 1. Is the ice cube maker located in an area where the temperature is below 55 degrees Fahrenheit? 2. Test for proper voltage supply.
3. Check for loose or broken wires. 4. Test the compressor, relay and overload protector. 5. Check the controls for the proper setting. 6. Test bin thermostat for continuity. If contacts are open, replace the thermostat. 7. Test the compressor. Compressor runs; no ice in storage bin: 1. Check water supply. 2. Check water valve. 3. Check evaporator thermostat. 4. Check the hot gas solenoid. It might be stuck “open.” 5. Check for sealed-system problems. 6. Check for excessive use of ice cubes. 7. Test cutter grid. 8. Check wiring against wiring diagram. 9. Is the water inlet tube from the water valve inserted in the return trough? 10. Check condenser fan motor. Ice storage bin full of ice; compressor runs continuously: 1. Check the calibration on the bin thermostat. 2. Test the bin thermostat for continuity. Are the contacts stuck shut? 3. Check wiring against the wiring diagram. Low ice production: 1. Is the ice cube maker located in an area where the temperature is below 55 degrees Fahrenheit? 2. Inspect the storage bin. Is water falling on the ice cubes? 3. Check the calibration on the bin thermostat. 4. Check the thickness control. Ice cubes produced should be between to 3 inch thick. 5. Check the hot gas solenoid. It might be partially stuck open. 6. Check for sealed-system problems. 7. Check water supply in reservoir. There might not be enough water circulating over the evaporator freeze plate. Excessive water dripping on the ice cubes: 1. Is the water tank overflowing? Check for blocked overflow tube. 2. Is the water trough installed properly? 3. Is the water inlet tube from the water valve inserted in the return trough? 4. Check cutter grid for ice jam. 5. Check the water deflector position. 6. Check water valve for leaks. Ice cubes too thin: 1. Check thickness control setting. 2. Check if there is enough water being circulated over the evaporator freeze plate. 3. Check for restrictions in the water system. 4. Check the water pump, motor, and the distributor tube. 5. Check the thermostat calibration. Ice cubes too thick: 1. Check thickness control setting. 2. Check the thermostat calibration. The condenser fan won’t run during the freeze cycle: 1. Check the fan blades for binding on the shroud. 2. Test the condenser motor for continuity. 3. Check for open circuits against wiring diagram. 4. Check for a defective evaporator thermostat. Water pump won’t run: 1. Check the pump for binding in the housing. 2. Check for open circuits against wiring diagram. 3. Test the pump motor for continuity. 4. Check for a defective evaporator thermostat. Water tank is empty: 1. Water won’t enter tank until the first defrost cycle is initiated. 2. Check for open circuit to the water valve solenoid. 3. Check water line for complete restriction. 4. Check for a defective evaporator thermostat. 5. Check the water valve, it might be stuck shut. 6. Test the water valve solenoid for continuity. 7. Check the water inlet tube from the water valve. It might not be directing the water into the tank. 8. Check for a clogged water inlet screen in the water valve. Treating the water: In the freeze cycle, as the water passes over the evaporator freeze plate, the impurities in the water are rejected and only the pure water will stick to the plate. The more dissolved solids that are present in the water, the longer the freezing cycle. Bi carbonates, which are found in the water, are the most troublesome of all of the impurities. These impurities can cause: • Scaling on the evaporator freeze plate • Clogging of the water distributor head • Water valve, and many other parts in the water system, to clog up If the impurities become too concentrated in the water system, they can cause: • Cloudy cubes • Mushy ice All of the water system parts that come in direct contact with the water might become corroded if the water supply is high in acidity. The water might have to be treated in order to overcome the problems with the mineral content. The most economical way to treat the water supply is with a polyphosphate feeder. This feeder is installed in the water inlet supply to prevent scale build-up. This will require less frequent cleaning of the ice maker. To install one of these feeders, follow the manufacturer’s recommendations in order to treat the water satisfactorily. The manufacturer of this type of ice cube maker recommends that the ice maker be cleaned occasionally to help combat lime and mineral deposit build-up. CLEANING INSTRUCTIONS FOR THE ICE CUBE MAKER To clean the water system parts and the evaporator freeze plate, turn off the ice maker with the cycle switch. Open the bin door and remove the cutter grid by re moving the two thumb screws, unplug the cutter grid, and remove it from the storage bin ( Figr. --32). A drain plug is located under the water tank. Remove it to drain the water out of the tank ( Figr. --33). After all of the water has been removed, re install the plug. Pour 4 gallon of hot water into the tank and set the switch to clean. The hot water will circulate through the water pump assembly and over the evaporator freeze plate, including all the water systems components. Let the water circulate for five minutes, then drain the water out of the tank. Replace the plug. Mix ice machine cleaner with 4 gallon of hot water, and pour it into the water tank. If you use a recognized ice machine cleaner, follow the instructions on the label for best results. If you would rather prepare your own solution, add 6 ounces of citric acid and phosphoric acid to 3.1 gallon of hot water, and pour into the water tank. __32 Removing the thumbscrews, disconnecting the electrical harness, and pulling the cutter grid out of the bin. __33 The water tank is located in the storage bin. Turn the switch to clean and circulate this solution for 20 minutes or longer, then drain the water. Follow with two clean water rinses that circulate for five minutes, and then drain the water. Remove the splash guard, the water dispenser tube, and the plastic water pump tank; then place them in a solution of mild laundry bleach for five minutes, and then rinse. Use one ounce of bleach to one gallon of hot water. Be sure the water temperature does not exceed 145 degrees Fahrenheit, it could damage the plastic parts. Finally, sanitize the ice bin, door, ice cube scoop, grid panel and grid with a bleach solution. Reinstall all parts in the reverse order of disassembly, and test the ice machine operation. After the cleaning treatment, apply a release agent to the evaporator plate. This agent will retard any future build-up of scale and mineral deposits, and it will make the plate more slippery, which will provide for a better ice slab release. To clean the condenser coil, remove the screws that secure the front grill and remove the grill ( Figr. --34). Vacuum all lint and dust from the coil and from the surrounding area ( Figr. --35). Reinstall the grill. The frequency of cleaning will be determined by the surrounding conditions. Grill panel: __34 Front grill is held in place with two screws located on the toe panel section. __35 The condenser section of the ice maker. REPAIR PROCEDURES Each repair procedure is a complete inspection and repair process for a single ice cube maker component, containing the information you need to test and replace components. Compressor, relay, overload protector The typical complaints associated with compressor, relay, and overload protector failure are: 1. Ice maker does not run at all. 2. No new ice production. 3. Ice cubes in the storage bin are melting rapidly. 4. Compressor won’t run, it only hums. 1. Verify the complaint Verify the complaint by asking the customer to describe what the ice cube maker is doing. 2. Check for external factors You must check for external factors not associated with the appliance. Is the appliance installed properly? Does the ice maker have the correct voltage? 3. Disconnect the electricity Before working on the ice maker, disconnect the electricity. This can be done by pulling the plug from the receptacle. Or disconnect the electricity at the fuse panel or at the Circuit breaker panel. Turn off the electricity. 4. Gain access to the compressor Access the compressor. To access the compressor, remove the front grill. Remove the two screws in the condensing unit base and pull the unit toward you. Be careful to not damage any refrigerant lines. Next, remove the compressor terminal cover ( Figr. --36) by removing the retaining clip that secures the cover. Remove the terminal cover. 5. Test the compressor relay To test the compressor relay, remove the relay by pulling it from the compressor terminals, without twisting it ( Figr. --37). On the relay body is stamped the word TOP. Hold the relay so that TOP is in the up position. Next, place the probes of the ohmmeter on the relay terminals.
__36 A pictorial view of compressor overload, and relay. __37 Pull the relay off the compressor Be careful, don’t break the compressor pins. marked S and M. Set the meter scale on R x 1. The reading will show no continuity. Next, remove the probe from the terminal marked M, and place the probe on the side terminal marked L. The reading will show no continuity. Now, move the probe from terminal S, and place it on the terminal marked M. The reading will show continuity. With the probes still attached, turn the relay upside down ( Figr. --34B) and perform the same tests. By turning the relay over, the switch contacts in the relay will close. When you retest the relay, you should get the opposite results. You should have continuity between terminals S and M, and between S and L. The meter won’t show continuity between M and L. If the relay fails this test, replace it. 6. Test the overload protector To test the overload protector, remove the wires from the overload protector and compressor terminals. Then, remove the overload protector (from the compressor) by removing the retaining clip that secures the overload ( Figr. --38). Next, place the probes of the ohmmeter on the overload terminals. Set the meter scale on R x 1. The reading will show continuity. If not, replace the overload protector. Overload protector Relay; Terminal cover __38 Disconnect the overload protector 7. Test the compressor To test the compressor, remove the relay and the overload protector. This will expose the compressor terminals. The compressor terminals are marked C, S, and R. The C indicates the common winding terminal; the S indicates the start winding terminal; and the R indicates the run winding terminal. Next, place the probes of the ohmmeter on the terminals marked S and R ( Figr. --39). Set the meter scale on R X 1, and adjust the needle setting to indicate a 0 reading. The meter reading will show continuity. Now, place the meter probes on the terminals marked C and S. The meter reading will show continuity. Finally, place the meter probes on the terminals marked C and R. The meter reading will show continuity. The total number of ohms measured between S and R is equal to the sum of C to S plus C to R. To test the compressor for ground, place one probe on a compressor terminal, and the other probe on the compressor housing, or on any good ground ( Figr. --40). Set the meter scale to R x 1000. __39 Testing the compressor windings. __40 Testing the compressor for ground. The meter reading will show no continuity. Repeat this for the remaining two terminals. The meter reading will show no continuity. If you get a continuity reading from any of these terminals to ground, the compressor is grounded, and it must be replaced. Bin thermostat: The typical complaints associated with bin thermostat failure are: 1. The ice maker runs all the time, making too much ice. 2. The ice maker doesn’t run at all. 1. Verify the complaint Verify the complaint by checking the sensing tube and bulb and the control settings. 2. Check for external factors You must check for external factors not associated with the appliance. Is the appliance installed properly? Explain to the user how to set the controls. 3. Disconnect the electricity Before working on the ice maker, disconnect the electricity. This can be done by pulling the plug from the receptacle. Or disconnect the electricity is at the fuse panel or at the circuit breaker panel. Turn off the electricity. 4. Gain access to the bin thermostat To access the bin thermostat, remove the screws from the escutcheon ( Figr. --41) and remove the panel. Next, remove the screws from the control bracket ( Figr. --42). Pull back on the control bracket, exposing the controls. 5. Test the bin thermostat To test the bin thermostat, remove the wires from the thermostat terminals, and place the ohmmeter probes on those terminals ( Figr. --43). Set the range scale on R x 1, and test for continuity. The meter should read continuity between the contacts, if the temperature of the capillary tube is above 42 degrees Fahrenheit. The meter should not read continuity between the contacts, if the temperature of the capillary tube is below 36 degrees Fahrenheit. 6. Remove the bin thermostat Remove the bin thermostat from the control bracket by removing the two screws ( Figr. --41). Remove well from the left wall of the liner. Next, remove the five clips (under the gasket) from the left-hand side of the liner ( Figr. --44). Now, bend the liner flange forward and remove the capillary tube and thermostat control. 7. Install a new bin thermostat To install the new bin thermostat just reverse the order of disassembly, and reassemble. Then, test the control. Remember to reinstall the capillary tube in the same location from where it was removed. If you do not, the ice maker won’t cycle properly. Evaporator thermostat: The typical complaints associated with evaporator thermostat failure are: 1. Unable to control ice cube thickness. 2. Ice maker water not circulating. 3. The ice maker runs, but no ice in the bin. 1. Verify the complaint Verify the complaint by checking the sensing tube and bulb, and the control settings. 2. Check for external factors You must check for external factors not associated with the appliance. Is the appliance installed properly? Explain to the user how to set the controls. 3. Disconnect the electricity Before working on the ice maker, disconnect the electricity. This can be done by pulling the plug from the receptacle. Or disconnect the electricity at the fuse panel or at the circuit breaker panel. Turn off the electricity. 4. Gain access to the evaporator thermostat To access the evaporator thermostat, remove the screws from the escutcheon ( Figr. --41), and remove the panel. Next, remove the screws from the control bracket ( Figr. --42). Pull back on the control bracket, exposing the controls. 5. Test the evaporator thermostat To test the evaporator thermostat, remove the wires from the thermostat terminals, and place the ohmmeter probes on terminals 1 and 2 ( Figr. --45). Set the range scale on R x 1, and test for continuity. The meter should show continuity between the contacts, if the __41 Removing the control panel to expose the controls.
__42 The bin thermostat. Multitester tube cutter __44 Peel back the liner to gain access to the capillary tube. temperature of the evaporator freeze-plate is 30 degrees Fahrenheit or warmer. The meter should not read continuity between the contacts, if the temperature of the evaporator freeze-plate is +10 to -3 degrees Fahrenheit. By disconnecting the water pump at the terminal board, and operating the ice maker without the pump, the evaporator thermostat action might be easily observed. This will cause the thermostat to cycle in a matter of a few minutes. __43 The bin thermostat Multitester: 6. Remove the evaporator thermostat Remove the cutter grid by removing the thumbscrews ( Figr. --32). Remove the evaporator thermostat from the control bracket by removing the two screws ( Figr. --42). Remove the clamp from underneath the evaporator freeze-plate, which secures the capillary tube to the evaporator. Next, remove the five clips, under the gasket, from the left-hand side of liner ( Figr. --44). Now, bend the liner flange forward and remove the capillary tube and thermostat control. 7. Install a new evaporator thermostat To install the new evaporator thermostat, just reverse the order of disassembly, and reassemble. Then, test the control. Remember to reinstall the capillary tube in the same location from where it was removed. Also, the capillary tube must be taped to the hot gas restrictor tube. If you do not, the ice maker won’t cycle properly. Hot gas solenoid valve The typical complaints associated with hot gas solenoid valve failure are: 1. Ice maker runs, but there is no ice production. 2. Evaporator freeze-plate won’t heat up to release ice slab. 3. Ice maker runs continuously. 1. Verify the complaint Verify the complaint by checking the ice maker cycles. 2. Check for external factors You must check for external factors not associated with the appliance. Is the appliance installed properly? Explain to the user how to set the controls. __45 The evaporator thermostat 3. Disconnect the electricity Before working on the ice maker, disconnect the electricity. This can be done by pulling the plug from the receptacle. Or disconnect the electricity at the fuse panel or at the circuit breaker panel. Turn off the electricity. 4. Gain access to the hot gas solenoid valve To access the hot gas solenoid valve ( Figr. --46), remove the grill ( Figr. --34). Next, remove the deflector from the condenser ( Figr. --35). Solenoid coil __46 The hot gas defrost valve. This valve will reverse the flow of refrigerant to the evaporator in Hot valve; the defrost cycle. 5. Test the hot gas solenoid valve Test the hot gas solenoid valve for continuity. Remove the wires from the solenoid coil. Place the ohmmeter probes on the solenoid coil terminals ( Figr. --46). Set the range scale on R x 1, and test for continuity. To test the hot gas valve itself, connect a 120-volt fused service cord ( Figr. --47) to the solenoid coil. Listen for a click sound as the plunger raises up. Now, disconnect the service cord, and you will hear the plunger drop back. If you cannot hear a distinctive click sound from the hot gas valve, then it will need to be replaced by an authorized service company (the sealed system might be under warranty from the manufacturer) or by a licensed refrigerant technician. The solenoid coil is a separate component that can be replaced without replacing the entire hot gas valve assembly. Another way to test the hot gas valve is to leave the wires off the solenoid coil, and reconnect the service cord to the solenoid coil. This test requires the electricity to be turned on. Caution: Tape the solenoid coil leads that were removed so that they won’t touch the chassis when you plug in the ice maker for this test. Be cautious when working with live wires. Avoid getting shocked! With the ice maker plugged in and running, feel the hot gas defrost tube, it should feel warm, or hot, when the valve is energized. 6. Remove the hot gas solenoid coil To remove the hot gas solenoid coil, remove the spring clip from the top of the coil, and remove the coil (be sure the electricity is off). 7. Install a new hot gas solenoid coil To install the new solenoid coil, just reverse the order of disassembly, and reassemble. Then, test the valve.
__47 120VAC fused service test cord. Three rubber insulated NEC color coded alligator clips 24-inch test leads 6-foot Male plug 120-volt service cord with ground receptacle Multitester: __48 The water valve. Water valve: The typical complaints associated with water valve failure are: 1. Ice maker runs, but there is no ice production. 2. No water circulating across the evaporator freeze-plate. 3. Water flooding the storage bin, causing the ice to melt. 1. Verify the complaint Verify the complaint by checking the ice maker cycles. 2. Check for external factors You must check for external factors not associated with the appliance. Is the appliance installed properly? Explain to the user how to set the controls. Is the water supply turned on? 3. Disconnect the electricity Before working on the ice maker, disconnect the electricity. This can be done by pulling the plug from the receptacle. Or disconnect the electricity at the fuse panel or at the circuit breaker panel. Turn off the electricity. 4. Gain access to the water valve To access the water valve, remove the top insulated panel. The water valve is located at the top right front corner. 5. Remove and test the water valve In order to test the water valve solenoid coil, the water valve must be removed from the storage bin. Shut off the water supply to the ice maker. Now, disconnect the water line from the valve. Next, remove the screws from the water valve bracket. Pull on the valve to release it from the receptacle in the liner. Place the ohmmeter probes on the solenoid coil terminals ( Figr. --48). Set the range scale on R x 1, and test for continuity. If there is no continuity, replace the water valve. 6. Install a new water valve To install the new water valve, just reverse the order of disassembly, and reassemble. Then, test the valve. Don’t forget to turn on the water supply. Condenser fan motor: The typical complaints associated with condenser fan motor failure are: 1. The ice maker stopped producing ice. 2. The condenser fan motor runs slower than normal. 3. The condenser fan motor does not run at all. 4. The compressor is sometimes noisier than normal. 1. Verify the complaint Verify the complaint by asking the customer to describe what the ice maker is doing. Is the condenser fan motor running during the freeze cycle? 2. Check for external factors You must check for external factors not associated with the appliance. Is the appliance installed properly? Are there any foreign objects blocking the condenser fan blades? 3. Disconnect the electricity Before working on the ice maker, disconnect the electricity to the ice maker. This can be done by pulling the plug from the receptacle. Or disconnect the electricity at the fuse panel or at the circuit breaker panel. Turn off the electricity. 4. Gain access to the condenser fan motor To access the condenser fan motor, remove the front grill. Remove the two screws in the condensing unit base and pull the unit toward you. Be careful not to damage any refrigerant lines. 5. Test the condenser fan motor To test the condenser fan motor, remove the wires from the motor terminals. Next, place the probes of the ohmmeter on the motor terminals ( Figr. --49). Set the meter scale on R x 1. The meter should show some resistance. If no reading is indicated, replace the motor. If the fan blades don’t spin freely, replace the motor. If the bearings are worn, replace the motor. 6. Remove the condenser fan motor To remove the condenser fan motor, you must first remove the fan blades. Unscrew the nut that secures the blades to the motor. Remove the blades from the motor. Then, remove the motor assembly by removing the mounting bracket screws ( Figr. --50). 7. Install a new condenser fan motor To install the new condenser fan motor, just reverse the order of disassembly, and reassemble. Remember to reconnect the ground wire to the motor. Reconnect the wires to the motor terminals, and test.
__50 A pictorial view of the condenser fan motor assembly. Multitester __49 The condenser fan motor Motor Fan motor plug, Screw Water pump: The typical complaints associated with water pump failure are: 1. Ice maker runs, but there is no ice production. 2. No water circulating across the evaporator freeze-plate. 1. Verify the complaint--Verify the complaint by checking the ice maker cycles. 2. Check for external factors You must check for external factors not associated with the appliance. Is the appliance installed properly? Explain to the user how to set the controls. 3. Disconnect the electricity Before working on the ice maker, disconnect the electricity. This can be done by pulling the plug from the receptacle. Or disconnect the electricity at the fuse panel or at the circuit breaker panel. Turn off the electricity. 4. Gain access to the water pump To access the water pump, remove the bin door, the front insulated panel, and the inner bin door. A drain plug is located under the water tank. Remove it to drain the water out of the tank ( Figr. --33). Next, remove the thumbscrews that secure the water tank and remove the tank. 5. Test the water pump To test the water pump motor, isolate the motor, and place the probes of the ohmmeter on the motor terminals ( Figr. --51). Set the meter scale on R x 1. The meter should show some resistance. If no reading is indicated, replace the water pump. Next, check the motor with a 120-volt fused service cord ( Figr. --47). 6. Remove the Water pump To remove the water pump ( Figr. --52), remove the screws from the water pump bracket that secure the pump to the liner. Disconnect the discharge hose from the pump. Remove the water pump. 7. Install a new water pump To install new water pump, just reverse the order of disassembly, and reassemble. Reconnect the wires to the motor terminals, and test. __51 A bottom view of water pump. When checking the pump, be sure the inlet is free of debris. Multitester; Mounting bracket __52 A top view of the water pump. Pump impeller The typical complaints associated with cutter grid failure are: 1. Ice slabs lay on top of the cutter grid. 2. Cutter grid is not cutting ice slab into cubes evenly. 1. Verify the complaint Verify the complaint by checking the ice slab and cutter grid fuse. 2. Check for external factors You must check for external factors not associated with the appliance. Is the appliance installed properly? Explain to the user how to set the controls. 3. Disconnect the electricity Before working on the ice maker, disconnect the electricity. This can be done by pulling the plug from the receptacle. Or disconnect the electricity at the fuse panel or at the circuit breaker panel. Turn off the electricity. 4. Gain access to the cutter grid To access the cutter grid, open the bin door, and remove the cutter grid by removing the two thumb screws. Unplug the cutter grid, and remove it from the storage bin ( Figr. --32). 5. Test the cutter grid Examine the cutter grid for broken wires, and check the connecting pins for corrosion ( Figr. --53). As you inspect the cutter grid, look for cracked or broken insulators in the frame. Next, place the probes of the ohmmeter on the cutter grid plug terminals ( Figr. --54). Set the meter scale on R x 1. The meter should show continuity. If no reading is indicated, one or more grid wires or insulators are defective. 6. Repair the cutter grid If the cutter grid frame and insulators are broken, then it would be advisable to replace the entire cutter grid. Using a C-clamp, compress the spring clip to relieve the tension ( Figr. --55). Next, use a pair of pliers to compress the adjacent spring clip and remove the buss bar. Do the same procedure for the other side of the cutter grid. The insulators, clips, and grid wires can now be removed and replaced. If any of the grid wires break, then, it’s time to replace all of the grid wires. Cutter grid; washer __53 A cutter grid cuts an ice slab into strips, then into cubes. __54 A pictorial view of the cutter grid circuit. 7. Install a cutter grid To install a cutter grid, just reverse the order of disassembly, and reassemble. Reconnect the wires to the cutter grid and test it. Cutter grid transformer and fuse: The typical complaints associated with grid transformer or fuse failure are: 1. Ice slabs lay on top of the cutter grid. 2. Cutter grid not cutting ice slab into cubes evenly. __55 A side view of the cutter grid, showing the clips, buss bars, and insulators. 1. Verify the complaint --Verify the complaint by checking the ice slab and cutter grid. 2. Check for external factors -- You must check for external factors not associated with the appliance. Is the appliance installed properly? 3. Disconnect the electricity Before working on the ice maker, disconnect the electricity. This can be done by pulling the plug from the receptacle. Or disconnect the electricity at the fuse panel or at the circuit breaker panel. Turn off the electricity. 4. Gain access to the cutter grid transformer and fuse To access the cutter grid transformer and fuse, remove the screws from the escutcheon ( Figr. --41), and remove the panel. The fuse is located on the left front. To remove the fuse, push in and twist the fuse, it will pop out of the holder ( Figr. --56). Next, remove the screws from the control bracket ( Figr. --42). Pull back on the control bracket, exposing the controls. 5. Test the cutter grid transformer and fuse To test the transformer, disconnect the wires from the transformer, to isolate it from the circuit. Use a 120-volt fused service cord, and connect it to the primary side of the transformer. This test requires the electricity to be turned on. Be cautious when working with live wires. Avoid getting shocked! You might have to look at the wiring diagram for assistance to identify the primary side, and for the proper color coding of the wires. Using the volt meter, connect the probes to the secondary side of the transformer. Plug in the 120-volt fused service cord. The meter should read 8.5 volts. Next, unplug the service cord. To test for resistance, disconnect the power cord, and set the ohmmeter scale on R x 1. Place the probes on the primary wires of the transformer. The meter should show resistance. Next, place the probes on the secondary wires of the transformer ( Figr. --57). The meter should show resistance. If the transformer fails either test, replace it. __56 The cutter fuse is located behind control panel. To test the fuse, place the probes on each end of the fuse ( Figr. --58). Set the ohmmeter scale on R x 1. The meter should show continuity. If not, replace the fuse. 6. Remove the transformer To remove the transformer, remove the screws that secure the transformer to the control bracket ( Figr. --42). 7. Install a new transformer or fuse To install the transformer or fuse, just reverse the order of disassembly, and reassemble. Reconnect the wires to the components and test it. Cycle switch: The typical complaints associated with cycle switch failure are: 1. Unable to turn on the clean cycle. 2. Unable to turn on the ice maker. 1. Verify the complaint Verify the complaint by checking the control settings. Multitester; Primary winding; Transformer __57 The cutter grid transformer. 8 V Secondary winding; Multi-tester short 2. Check for external factors You must check for external factors not associated with the appliance. Is the appliance installed properly? Explain to the user how to set the controls. 3. Disconnect the electricity Before working on the ice maker, disconnect the electricity. This can be done by pulling the plug from the receptacle. Another way to disconnect the electricity is at the fuse panel, or at the circuit breaker panel. Turn off the electricity. 4. Gain access to the cycle switch To access the cycle switch, remove the screws from the escutcheon ( Figr. --41), and remove the panel. Next, remove the screws from the control bracket ( Figr. --42). Pull back on the control bracket, exposing the controls. 5. Test the cycle switch To test the cycle switch for continuity between the switch contacts, refer to the wiring diagram for the correct switch positions ( Figr. --59). Disconnect the wires from the switch, and turn the switch to the “on” position. Place the probes of the ohmmeter on the cycle switch terminals marked 2 and 3. Set the meter scale on R x 1. The meter should show continuity. Now, place the probes of the ohmmeter on the cycle switch terminals marked 1 and 6. The meter should show continuity. Next, turn the cycle switch to the clean position. Place the probes of the ohmmeter on the cycle switch terminals marked 5 and 6. The meter should show continuity. If the switch fails these tests, replace it. 6. Remove the cycle switch To remove the cycle switch, remove the two screws that secure the switch to the control bracket ( Figr. --42). 7. Install a new cycle switch To install a new cycle switch, just reverse the order of disassembly, and reassemble. Connect the wires to the switch terminals according to the wiring diagram and test it. __58 The cutter grid fuse. If this fuse blows, the cutter grid won’t function. Check for a short. NOTE: Contacts 115 Volts shown in freezing cycle 60 Hertz; __59 A sample wiring diagram of a self-contained ice cube maker. Fuse--Cutter grid Prev: Automatic ice makers (part 1) Next: Glossary Home top of page All related articles |