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The automatic ice maker is an independent appliance, installed in the freezer, or in the freezer compartment of a refrigerator. The ice maker has three distinct operations: fill, freeze and harvest the ice cubes. It’s the refrigerator/freezer cooling sys tem that allows the water to freeze into whatever shape is designed by the ice mold or tray. The amount of time it takes for the ice maker to produce and harvest ice cubes will depend on: • Freezer temperature • Food load conditions • Amount of door openings • Ambient temperature SAFETY FIRST Any person who cannot use basic tools, or follow written instructions, should not attempt to install, maintain, or repair any automatic ice makers. Any improper installation, preventive maintenance, or repairs could create a risk of personal injury or property damage. If you don’t fully understand the installation, preventive maintenance, or repair procedures in this section or if you doubt your ability to complete the task on your automatic ice maker, then please call your service manager. The following precautions should also be followed: 1. Never place fingers or hands on the automatic ice maker mechanism while the refrigerator/freezer is plugged in. 2. Disconnect the electrical supply to the freezer or refrigerator before servicing the automatic ice maker. 3. Be careful of any sharp edges on the automatic ice maker, which might result in personal injury. 4. Don’t attempt to operate the automatic ice maker unless it has been properly reinstalled, including the grounding and electrical connections. Before continuing, take a moment to refresh your memory on safety procedures. AUTOMATIC ICE MAKERS IN GENERAL Much of the troubleshooting information in this section covers automatic ice makers in general, rather than specific models, in order to present a broad overview of service techniques. The pictures and illustrations that are used in this section are for demonstration purposes to clarify the description of how to service ice makers. They in no way reflect on a particular brand’s reliability. PRINCIPLES OF OPERATION FOR TYPE-1 AND TYPE-2 AUTOMATIC ICE MAKERS The freezer temperature determines the efficiency of the automatic ice maker. The colder the temperature in the freezer, the faster ice will freeze in the mold or tray. In order for the ice maker to harvest the ice cubes, the temperature in the freezer should be colder than 12 degrees Fahrenheit. The water supply ( Figr. --1) is metered into the ice maker mold or tray by a water valve, usually located in the compressor compartment. The water freezes in the automatic ice maker mold or tray, as it would in a manual ice cube tray. Type-1 ice maker: Type-1 ice makers, as illustrated in Figr. --2, have a thermostat that is mounted on the ice maker mold which will sense the temperature of the ice. When the water and ice has cooled down to 17 ± 3 degrees Fahrenheit, the thermostat will activate the ice maker motor and heater circuit. The motor will rotate the ejector blade, allowing it to rest on the ice cubes and, at the same time, exerting pressure. The ice maker mold heater will warm up the ice cubes just enough to release the ice cubes from the mold. This procedure will take approximately three to five minutes to release the ice cubes from the mold. Water pipe: __1 A typical ice maker water supply installation. Note the direction of the water flow. Copper tube; Ice maker __2 Type-1 ice maker When the ice cubes become free from the ice maker mold, the ejector blade will continue to rotate, scooping the ice cubes out of the ice maker mold and depositing them in the ice bucket. The shut-off arm moves up and down as the ice maker cycles. At the end of the cycle, the arm will lay on top of the ice cubes. As the cubes fill the ice bucket, the shut-off arm raises to a designated point, and turns off the ice maker; halting ice production. As the ice level in the bucket falls, from use, the ice maker cycle will resume. Then, the water valve opens again, allowing the water to enter the ice maker mold to be frozen into ice cubes; thus, beginning the cycle all over again. The fill time for the type-i ice maker is approximately seven seconds. This type of ice maker can produce up to eight pounds of ice within a 24-hour period, providing the conditions are ideal. Some customers will have ice production between 3 to 5 pounds per day, depending on usage and door openings. Type-2 ice maker The type-2 ice maker ( Figr. --3) has the components in the ice maker head necessary for the ice-making operation. The temperature in the freezer compartment must be below 15 degrees Fahrenheit before the ice maker will begin to operate. Inside the ice maker head assembly is a thermostat that senses the temperature in the freezer compartment. When the thermostat is satisfied, it will energize the timer mo tor. When the motor is energized, it will begin to turn a timing gear, and the shut-off arm will also begin to move. The shut-off arm will descend into the ice bucket to determine how much ice is in the bucket. If the bucket is full, the shut-off arm will rest against the ice cubes and the ice maker won’t cycle. If the shut-off arm continues to return to its normal position, the ice bucket is not full, and the cycle will continue. If the cycle continues, the tray will begin to rotate. When the tray has rotated about 140 degrees, one corner of the tray engages the tray stop, which prevents that part of the tray from rotating further ( Figr. --4). The rest of the tray will continue to rotate and twist the tray to about 40 degrees. At this point, the twisting of the tray will loosen the ice cubes. As the shaft continues to turn, the tray stop will begin to retract. As this happens, the tray will rapidly release the ice cubes into the ice __3 Type-2 ice maker. Tray stop engaging corner of tray bucket. After the ice has been released, the tray will continue to rotate until it has completed its 360-degree rotation. Near the end of the tray rotation, the water valve fill switch is energized, allowing the water to enter and fill the tray for the next cycle ( Figr. --5). The fill time for type-2 ice maker is approximately 12 seconds. Testing type- 1 ice maker: The type-i ice maker is designed to allow all of the components to be tested with out removing the ice maker, and without moving the refrigerator away from the wall to test the water valve. The ice maker in Figr. --6A is the old-style ice maker, and it’s not in production anymore. Parts for this old style ice maker are still available. Figr. --6B is the new-style modular ice maker. The components that make up the new-style modular ice maker are illustrated in Figr. --7. __4 The ice tray will twist, releasing the ice cubes. Water fill valve solenoid energized Tray rotating toward level position __6 A. Old-style type- ice maker B. New-style type- 1 ice maker. The test holes that are on the ice maker head module ( Figr. --6B) are identified as “N,” “M,” “H,” “T,” “L,” “V.” These are the test points for testing this type of ice maker. The letters indicate the following: N = neutral side of line voltage M = ice maker motor connection H = mold heater connection L = Li side of line voltage V = ice maker water valve connection. This test requires the electricity to be turned on. Caution should be taken when working with live wires. Avoid getting shocked. Stay clear of live wires. Only handle the meter probes by the insulated handles. Ice cubes harvested: __5 The ice cube tray must return to a level position after the melting cycle is complete. __7 Exploded view of new-style type- I ice maker To test this ice maker, the unit must be installed and plugged into the freezer ice maker receptacle; the shut-off arm placed in the down position; and the temperature in the freezer should be colder than 12 degrees Fahrenheit. Set your multimeter for voltage and place one probe in test point “L” and the other probe in test point “N.” Be sure that the test probes go into the test points about l inch. You should have a reading of 120 volts, which indicates line voltage to the ice maker. Next, place the meter probes in test points “T” and “H.” This will verify if the bimetal thermostat is open or closed. If the thermostat is open, you will read 120 volts. If it’s closed, you will read no line voltage. At this point, you are going to use an insulated jumper wire ( Figr. --8) to short the test points “T” and “H.” This procedure will run the motor. If the motor doesn’t run, replace the ice maker module assembly. If the ice maker motor runs, replace the bimetal thermostat. If you leave the jumper wire in for a half of a revolution, you can feel the mold heater heating up. This means that the mold heater is working. Now, remove the jumper wire, and the water valve will be energized in the last half of the revolution. The ejector blade in Figr. --9 is rotating clockwise. This illustration shows what is about to happen as the cycle be gins (from the stop position) and rotates 360 degrees back again. Another way to test the water valve, without cycling the ice maker, is to place one end of the jumper wire in test point “N” and the other end in test point “V.” Water will immediately enter the ice maker mold, so be ready to disconnect the jumper wire. If no water enters the mold, then check the water supply, the water valve, and the connecting tubing. The jumper wire should be made of 14 gauge wire, approximately 8 to 10 inches long, with inch of the insulation removed from both ends. Don’t short any contacts other than those specified in this test procedure. Why? Because you can damage the ice maker, or injure yourself, or both. Stripper: Screw arm inside housing: __8 The jumper wire is used to short out the test points on the ice maker module. Water valve energized; - Ejector blade stop position (about 1:30 o’clock); Ejector stalls on ice opens in this range of rotation; Viewed from front __9 Indicating the ejector blade position when ice maker is cycling. Testing type-2 ice maker: In testing the operation of the type-2 ice maker head, you will have to initiate the harvest cycle. Don’t remove the ice maker for this test. The shut-off arm won’t operate during the manual harvest. When performing the following procedures refer to Figr. --10. To cycle the ice maker do the following: 1. Place the shut-off arm in the on position. 2. Push the switch actuator tab down, and hold it. This will activate the ice maker motor. 3. Push the tray lock tab toward the tray shaft. This will unlock the tray. 4. Twist the tray clockwise. This will start the cycle. 5. As the tray turns past 30 degrees, you can release the switch actuator tab. 6. After the harvest cycle is complete, empty the water from the ice tray. This will prevent the next occurring automatic harvest from dumping water into the ice bucket. When you perform a manual harvest, you interrupt the timing sequence only. A manual harvest won’t reset the timing mechanism. Manually twist tray to start cycle: Push forward tray shaft to unlock tray -10 Manually twist the ice tray clockwise. When the tray reaches 30 degrees, then release the switch actuator If you are unable to start the harvest cycle, then check the motor shaft to see if it turns while you depress the switch actuator ( Figr. --11). Also, check the temperature in the freezer. If the temperature is above 15 degrees Fahrenheit, the ice maker won’t operate. If the motor shaft still does not rotate, then remove the ice maker, and test the unit on the work bench. Use a test cord to test the ice maker motor ( Fig. -11 To shut off the ice maker lift the shut-off arm and rest ft on the tab, as indicated by the broken lines. Water/temperature problems The water quality can cause the ice maker to malfunction or produce poor-quality ice cubes. If the minerals in the water, or sand particles, become lodged in the water valve fill screen, it can restrict or stop the water from entering the ice maker mold. If sand particles bypass the fill screen in the water valve, it can possibly keep the water valve from closing completely, thus causing the water to enter the ice maker mold continuously. If this condition happens, the ice maker will produce small cubes or even flood the ice maker compartment and freezer. Another indication of a defective water valve is that the ice maker fill tube will be completely frozen shut, possibly causing water to flow onto the floor every time the ice maker cycles. Switch actuator must be down for motor to operate: You can purchase this ice maker test cord from your parts distributor. -12 A test cord to test a type-2 ice maker The minerals in the water can also cause lime deposits to build up on the ice maker mold. If this condition happens, the ice cubes won’t be released easily from the mold. Ice production can be slowed if the temperature in the freezer compartment is above normal. To correct this problem, adjust the temperature controls to a colder position. The more the doors are opened, the colder the temperature setting must be. STEP-BY-STEP TROUBLESHOOTING TYPE-1 ICE MAKERS When servicing an appliance, don’t overlook the simple things that might be causing the problem. Step-by-step troubleshooting, by symptom diagnosis, is based on diagnosing malfunctions with possible causes arranged in categories relating to the operation of the automatic ice maker. This section is intended only to serve as a checklist, to aid you in diagnosing a problem. Look at the symptom that best describes the problem you are experiencing with the automatic ice maker, then correct the problem. Ice maker producing too much ice: 1. Check if the shut-off arm is not connected to the actuator in the ice maker head. 2. Check the shut-off arm. Is it bent Out of its original shape? 3. Check the shut-off linkage in the ice maker head. Is it broken? Ice maker won’t make ice, or low ice production: 1. Check freezer temperature. 2. Is the shut-off arm in the off position? 3. Check motor operation. Did it stall? Are the gears stripped? Red: 4. Test the voltage at the ice maker. Is the ice maker plugged into the receptacle? 5. Test thermostat for continuity. Bypass thermostat. Will the ice maker run? 6. Check the shut-off linkage in the ice maker head. Is it broken? 7. Is the supply water turned on? Does water enter the ice maker mold when it cycles? 8. Check the ice maker fill tube. Is it frozen? 9. Check for an ice jam. 10. Check for defective wiring. Ice cubes too small: 1. Check the ice maker. Is it level? 2. Check the fill tube. Is it frozen? 3. Check water supply. 4. Check ice maker water valve. 5. Check the water pressure. Is it between 20 to 120 PSI? 6. Check for a self piercing saddle valve. Mineral deposits will restrict the opening. 7. Cycle the ice maker and catch the fill water in a glass. Measure the amount of water. Are there at least 140 cc of water in the glass? 8. Test for opens in the mold heater. 9. Check the ice maker thermostat. There might be insufficient thermal bond between the thermostat and the ice maker mold. Ice maker producing hollow ice cubes: 1. Cycle the ice maker, and catch the fill water in a glass. Measure the amount of water. Are there at least 140 cc of water in the glass? 2. Check for improper air flow in the freezer compartment. Direct the air flow away from the ice maker thermostat. 3. Check the ice maker thermostat. 4. Check the temperature in the freezer compartment. Ice maker flooding the freezer compartment or ice bucket 1. Check the thermostat. 2. Check for an ice jam, when the ice maker is in the fill position. 3. Check for a leaky water valve. 4. Check for proper ice maker water fill. Too much water will spill over the mold, causing the ice in the bucket to freeze together. 5. Check the ejector blade position. If the blade is in the 12 o’clock position, the ice maker motor has stalled. 6. Check ice maker module for contamination and/or burned switch contacts. Check the linkage for proper operation. 7. Is the refrigerator level? Is the ice maker level? 8. Check water pressure. Ice makers fill according to time, not volume. Water pressure should be between 20 to 120 PSI. 9. Is the fill tube located in the fill cup? STEP-BY-STEP TROUBLESHOOTING TYPE-2 ICE MAKER BY SYMPTOM DIAGNOSIS When servicing an appliance, don’t overlook the simple things that might be causing the problem. Step-by-step troubleshooting, by symptom diagnosis, is based upon diagnosing malfunctions with possible causes arranged into categories relating to the operation of the automatic ice maker. This section is intended only to serve as a checklist, to aid you in diagnosing a problem. Look at the symptom that best describes the problem you are experiencing with the automatic ice maker, then proceed to correct the problem. Ice maker won’t run: 1. Test freezer temperature. 2. Check the shut-off arm. Is it in the off position? 3. Run ice maker test. Does the ice maker motor run? 4. Check for defective wiring. 5. Is the ice maker plugged into the receptacle? 6. Test for voltage at the ice maker receptacle. Ice cubes are stuck together: 1. Test temperature of freezer. 2. Check for proper fill. 3. Check ice tray for mineral deposits. Mineral deposits will cause the ice to stick to the tray, which can cause the ice cubes to stick together on the next cycle. Ice maker spills water from the tray: 1. Check the ice tray. When the harvest cycle is completed, the ice cube tray should return to its starting position, and the tray should be level. 2. Check the inlet water fill tube. Be sure that the fill tube and fill trough fit together properly. 3. Check for a leaking water inlet valve. Water won’t enter ice tray: 1. Check for proper water supply to ice maker. 2. Check water valve strainer for restrictions. 3. Check the water valve. 4. Check for proper water pressure. 5. Check wiring circuit. Ice cubes too small, or some of the ice cube compartments are empty: 1. Check the ice maker. Is it level? 2. Check the fill tube. Is it frozen? 3. Check water supply. 4. Check ice maker water valve. 5. Check the water pressure. Is it between 20 to 120 PSI? 6. Check for a self piercing saddle valve. Mineral deposits will restrict the opening. 7. Cycle the ice maker and catch the fill water in a glass. Measure the amount of water. Are there at least 200 cc of water in the glass? The fill time will be between 12 and 13 seconds. DIAGNOSTIC CHART The diagnostic chart ( Figr. --13) will help you to pinpoint the likely cause of the problem.
__13 The diagnostic flow chart: ice maker not making ice. REPAIR PROCEDURES Each repair procedure is a complete inspection and repair process for a single ice cube maker component, containing the information you need to test and replace components. Type-1ice maker, module The typical complaints associated with ice maker module failure are: 1. Ice maker not making any ice. 2. Ice maker stalls in middle of cycling. 1. Verify the complaint Verify the complaint by checking the ice maker and the temperature in the freezer. 2. Check for external factors You must check for external factors not associated with the ice maker. For example: Is the ice maker installed properly? 3. Disconnect the electricity Before working on the ice maker, disconnect the electricity to the refrigerator/freezer. This can be done by pulling the plug from the receptacle. Or disconnect the electricity at the fuse panel or at the circuit breaker panel. Turn off the electricity. 4. Gain access to the ice maker Open the freezer door to access the ice maker. Remove the screws that secure the ice maker to the wall of the freezer ( Figr. --14). Next, unplug the ice maker from the receptacle and remove the ice maker ( Figr. --15A). Now, depress the retaining tab, and pull the wiring harness from the ice maker head ( Figr. --15B). 5. Disassemble and remove the ice maker module After testing the ice maker, and it has been determined that you must replace the ice maker module, it’s time to disassemble it. Insert a flat blade screwdriver between the shut-off arm and the white elongated hole on the ice maker head ( Figr. --16), remove the shut-off arm by prying the arm out of the ice maker head. Pry off the ice maker cover ( Figr. --17) with a coin or a screwdriver. This will expose the ice maker module. To remove the ice maker module, remove the three screws ( Figr. --18) and pull the module Out of the ice maker head. Inspect the module linkage and switch contacts ( Figr. --19). 6. Install a new ice maker module To install the new ice maker module, just reverse the order of disassembly, and reassemble. To reinstall the shut-off arm on the ice maker ( Figr. --16), you must first insert the straight end in the round hole in the fill cup. Be sure the flat side on the arm goes through __14 Support the ice maker when removing the screws. __15 Pull ice maker plug out of receptacle (A). Remove the wire harness by depressing the tab, then pull ft (B). the fill cup. This will prevent the shut-off arm from coming out of the fill cup hole. Next, insert the other end of the shut-off arm into the white elongated hole in the ice maker housing. Don’t install the arm into any one of the round holes in the ice maker housing. Push on the arm so that the arm will be completely in place, and even with the ice maker surface. Reinstall the ice maker in the freezer and test it. Type- 1 ice maker, thermostat The typical complaint associated with ice maker thermostat failure are: 1. Ice maker not making any ice cubes. 2. Ice maker producing hollow ice cubes. 1. Verify the complaint Verify the complaint by checking the ice maker and the temperature in the freezer. 2. Check for external factors You must check for external factors not associated with the ice maker. Is the ice maker installed properly? Depress tab and pull harness out end __16 Removing the shut-off arm by prying out of slot. When installing the shut-off arm, be sure that the end is pressed in all the way. __17 Gain access to the ice maker module. White elongated hole: __18 Removing the three screws to remove the module. __19 Inspecting the shut-off arm linkage, cam follower and switch contacts. Note: the ground terminal is slightly longer than the other three terminals. The ground connection is made first, or breaks last, when the wiring harness is removed or plugged in. 3. Disconnect the electricity Before working on the ice maker, disconnect the electricity to the refrigerator/freezer. This can be done by pulling the plug from the receptacle. Or disconnect the electricity at the fuse panel or at the circuit breaker panel. Turn off the electricity. 4. Gain access to the ice maker thermostat Open the freezer door to access the ice maker. Remove the screws that secure the ice maker to the wall of the freezer ( Figr. --14). Next, unplug the ice maker from the receptacle, and remove the ice maker ( Figr. --15A). Now, press the retaining tab and pull the wiring harness from the ice maker head ( Figr. --15B). Insert a flat blade screwdriver between the shut-off arm and the white elongated hole on the ice maker head ( Figr. --16), remove the shut-off arm by prying the arm out of the ice maker head. Pry off the ice maker cover ( Figr. --17) with a coin or a screwdriver. This will expose the ice maker module. To remove the ice maker module, remove the three screws ( Figr. --18) and pull the module out of the ice maker head. Inspect the linkage, the cam follower, and the switch contacts. Next, remove the two screws that secure the ice maker head to the mold ( Figr. --20). Separate the ice maker head from the mold assembly and you will see the thermostat on the mold side of the ice maker head. 5. Remove the thermostat To remove the thermostat, use needle nose pliers to pull Out the retaining clips ( Figr. --21). Remove the thermostat. 6. Install a new thermostat To install the new thermostat, just reverse the order of disassembly, and reassemble the ice maker. Be sure that you properly index the pins on the thermostat. Before you assemble the ice maker head to the mold assembly, you must apply new thermal bonding material to the thermostat. This will allow the thermostat to make better contact with the ice maker mold. Reinstall the ice maker in the freezer, and test. Shut-off arm linkage: Ground (slightly longer than other 3 terminals so that ground makes first and breaks last when disconnected or plugged in). Cam follower; Screws __20 Removing the two screws. Thermostat __21 Removing the retaining clips with a pair of needle nose pliers. Type- 1 ice maker, mold, and heater assembly: The typical complaints associated with ice maker mold and heater assembly failure are: 1. Ice maker not making any ice. 2. Ice won’t come out of the mold. 3. Black pieces of mold coating material in the ice cubes. 1. Verify the complaint Verify the complaint by checking the ice maker and the temperature in the freezer. 2. Check for external factors You must check for external factors not associated with the ice maker. Is the ice maker installed properly? 3. Disconnect the electricity Before working on the ice maker, disconnect the electricity to the refrigerator/freezer. This can be done by pulling the plug from the receptacle. Or disconnect the electricity is at the fuse panel or circuit breaker panel. Turn off the electricity. 4. Gain access to the ice maker mold assembly Open the freezer door to access the ice maker. Remove the screws that secure the ice maker to the wall of the freezer ( Figr. --14). Next, unplug the ice maker from the receptacle, and remove the ice maker ( Figr. --15A). Now, press the retaining tab and pull the wiring harness from the ice maker head ( Figr. --15B). Insert a flat blade screwdriver between the shut-off arm and the white elongated hole on the ice maker head ( Figr. --16), remove the shut-off arm by prying the arm out of the ice maker head. Pry off the ice maker cover ( Figr. --17) with a coin or screwdriver. Use a phillips screwdriver, and insert it into the ports in the module ( Figr. --22) to loosen the screws. Separate the ice maker head assembly from the mold assembly. Also, remove the ejector, the fill cup, the stripper, and the shut-off arm ( Figr. --7). Don’t remove the heater. The heater and mold come as a complete assembly. Retaining clips: 5. Install a new ice maker mold assembly To install new ice maker mold assembly, just reverse the order of disassembly, and reassemble. When assembling the ice maker, apply a thin film of silicone grease to the end of the ejector that goes into the fill cup. This will prevent the ejector from freezing to the fill cup. Also, apply a thin film of silicone grease to the other end of the ejector. Before installing the stripper, apply a heavy film of silicone grease to the top surface of the mold that is covered by the stripper. This will prevent the water from wicking over the ice maker mold every time it cycles. Before you assemble the ice maker head to the mold assembly, you must apply new thermal bonding material to the thermostat. This will allow the thermostat to make better contact with the ice maker mold. Reinstall the ice maker in the freezer and test it. Mold attachment screw access ports (2): __22 The entire ice maker head can be removed by loosening the two screws through the access ports. Water valve: The typical complaints associated with water valve failure are: 1. Ice maker not making any ice. 2. Ice maker fill tube frozen. 3. Ice maker mold fills with very little water. 1. Verify the complaint Verify the complaint by checking the ice maker and the temperature in the freezer. 2. Check for external factors You must check for external factors not associated with the ice maker. Is the ice maker installed properly? Check the water supply to the water valve. 3. Disconnect the electricity Before working on the water valve, disconnect the electricity to the refrigerator/freezer. This can be done by pulling the plug from the receptacle. Or disconnect the electricity at the fuse panel or circuit breaker panel. Turn off the electricity. 4. Gain access to the water valve To access the water valve, pull the refrigerator/freezer away from the wall. Remove the back access panel. Shut off the water supply to the ice maker. 5. Remove the water valve Remove the water inlet tube from the water valve. Then, remove the screws from the water valve bracket that secure the valve to the cabinet ( Figr. --23). Next, remove the ice maker fill line. Finally, disconnect the wiring harness from the solenoid coil of the valve. 6. Test the water valve Using your ohmmeter, set the scale on R x 10, and place the probes on the solenoid coil terminals ( Figr. --24). The meter should show between 200 and 500 ohms resistance. If not, replace the water valve. If you determine that the water valve is good, but there is little water flow through the valve, inspect the inlet screen. If this screen is filled with debris, it must be cleaned out. To accomplish this, use a small flat blade screwdriver and pry out the screen ( Figr. --25). Then, wash Out the screen, being sure all of the debris is removed. After cleaning out the debris, reinstall the screen, and test the water valve. 7. Install a new water valve To install the new water valve, just reverse the disassembly procedure, and reassemble. Also, reconnect the ground wire from the water valve bracket to the refrigerator/freezer cabinet. Secure the water supply line to the cabinet. This will prevent the supply line from leaking when the refrigerator/freezer is pushed back against the wall. Check for water leaks before you push the refrigerator/freezer back against the wall. Also inspect the fill tubing for any cracks, etc. ( Figr. --26). __23 Disconnect the water inlet line and the outlet line. Disconnect wiring harness from the solenoid coil. The typical complaints associated with type-2 ice maker head failure are: 1. Ice maker not making any ice. 2. Ice won’t come out of the mold. 1. Verify the complaint Verify the complaint by checking the ice maker and the temperature in the freezer. Type-2 ice maker head and tray: __24 Testing the solenoid coil for resistance. __25 Removing the inlet screen. Clean it out with warm water and soap. 2. Check for external factors You must check for external factors not associated with the ice maker. Is the ice maker installed properly? 3. Disconnect the electricity Before working on the ice maker, disconnect the electricity to the refrigerator/freezer. This can be done by pulling the plug from the receptacle. Another way to disconnect the electricity is at the fuse panel or circuit breaker panel. Turn off the electricity. Clamp __26 Checking for defective tubing. Check the clamp and compression nuts for leaks. Fill tubing; Wiring harness; Compression nut 4. Gain access to the ice maker Open the freezer door to access the ice maker. Remove the screws that secure the ice maker to the wall of the freezer. Next, unplug the ice maker from the receptacle and remove the ice maker. 5. Disassemble and remove the ice maker head assembly After testing the ice maker, and it has been determined that you must replace the ice maker head assembly, it’s time to disassemble it. First, remove the retaining clip from the end of the tray, and then slide the tray off the ice maker drive shaft ( Figr. --27). Next, remove the fill cup and screw. On the back of the ice maker head is a clamp that holds the tray drive shaft in place; remove it. Pull the shaft out of the ice maker head. Then, place a flat blade screwdriver behind the shut-off arm and pry it loose ( Figr. --28). 6. Install a new ice maker bead To install the new ice maker head, just reverse the order of disassembly, and reassemble. When replacing a defective ice maker head, only replace it with an exact replacement having the same amount of cycle operation time. Reinstall the ice maker in the freezer and test. Type-2 ice maker tray: The typical complaints associated with type-2 ice maker tray failure are: 1. Ice maker not making any ice. 2. Ice won’t come out of the mold. 3. Water in the tray freezes into a solid block of ice. 1. Verify the complaint Verify the complaint by checking the ice maker and the temperature in the freezer. 2. Check for external factors You must check for external factors not associated with the ice maker. Is the ice maker installed properly?
__27 Always reinstall the ice cube tray in the same position as moved. If the ice tray is installed upside down, water will flood the time the ice maker cycles. when it was re ice bucket every 3. Remove the ice maker tray To remove the ice maker tray, remove the retaining clip from the end of the tray, and then slide the tray off the ice maker drive shaft ( Figr. --27). 4. Install a new ice t To install the new ice tray, just reverse the disassembly procedure, and reassemble. Always reinstall the tray in the same position, as that from which it was removed, for proper operation.
__28 Gently pry off the shut-off arm. Test the ice maker. Let it run through a complete cycle and harvest. Then, inspect the ice maker tray. SELF-CONTAINED ICE CUBE MAKER This type of ice cube maker is a freestanding, self-contained refrigeration appliance which produces a slab of ice that is cut into ice cubes ( Figr. --29). The production of ice cubes is all done automatically, and the entire mechanism is stored within the ice cube maker cabinet. The self contained ice cube maker can also be installed under the Counter. The thickness of the ice cubes can be adjusted by the thickness control, located on the control panel. This ice cube maker can produce up to 50 pounds of ice cubes per 24 hours. The amount of ice cubes will vary, depending on where it’s installed, the room temperature, and the supply water temperature. Principles of operation: Controls; Ice cube storage bin; Compressor & condenser & fan motor In the freeze cycle, water flows constantly, and it’s recirculated over the evaporator freeze plate until a slab of ice is formed ( Figr. --30). When the ice slab reaches a predetermined thickness, the evaporator freeze plate temperature is sensed by the thermostat, and the freeze cycle is terminated. At that point in time, the defrost cycle will begin to release the ice slab from the evaporator freeze plate. The ice slab will slide down onto the cutter grid, which cuts the ice slab into ice cubes. At the same time, the ice maker has automatically switched back into the freeze cycle. __29 The self-contained ice cube maker Water valve; Cutter grid Water pump & motor Water tank reservoir __30 A pictorial view of the water system. When the defrost cycle begins, the remaining water in the water tank reservoir is discarded Out through the overflow tube. At that point, fresh water will enter through the water valve, and go into the water tank reservoir. The refrigeration cycle ( Figr. --31) in this type of ice maker is similar to the conventional refrigerator. The compressor pumps the refrigerant into the condenser coil, which is cooled by a fan and motor. The refrigerant leaves the condenser coil as a high-pressure liquid, passes through the dryer and enters into the capillary tube. The refrigerant is next metered through the capillary tube, and it then enters the evaporator freeze plate. The refrigerant gas will then leave the evaporator freeze plate and return to the compressor. When the ice maker goes into the defrost cycle, it energizes the hot gas sole noid, which reverses the refrigeration cycle, during which the condenser fan motor and water pump will stop. The hot gas passes through the evaporator freeze plate, heating it up enough to release the ice slab. The thermostat will sense the tempera ture of the evaporator freeze plate again, and it will activate the freeze cycle. The hot gas solenoid valve will then close, the water valve will close, the condenser fan motor will start, the water pump will start, and the freeze cycle will begin to manufacturer a new slab of ice.
CAUTION: Be certain that the outlet end of the water inlet tube is Inside the water return pan as shown. Ice cube storage bin -- Drain; Accumulator; Drier __31 A pictorial view of the refrigeration system. Prev: Refrigerator/freezer electrical schematics Next: Automatic ice makers (part 2) Home top of page All related articles |