Installing a New Kitchen: Appliances, Floor, Countertops ... the works!

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As you follow the step-by-step illustrations in this section, you’ll watch your design come to life. And when you begin using your new kitchen, you’ll have the pleasure of knowing it was worth all the effort.

You’re down to the last phase of your project—installation. Following your plan, you’ll want to make sure all your structural changes are made and that new plumbing, wiring, gas, heat, and vent lines are in place. As mentioned elsewhere in this guide, you will find step-by- step instructions for plumbing and wiring tasks in our guide, Basic Wiring Techniques and Basic Plumbing Techniques. With your floors and walls patched and smoothed, follow the installation steps outlined in this section. If you want, make up a checklist of the tasks you need to do during installation, and put them in some sort of sequence so you can check them off as you go. That way, you will have an idea of what still lies ahead and how much time will be involved. The order of installation varies, but the following list represents the most common sequence:

  • ceramic tile or hardwood floors
  • wall cabinets
  • base cabinets and islands
  • cabinet doors, drawers, and hardware
  • plywood base for tile counter tops
  • recessed sinks
  • counter tops — tile, marble, wood. etc.
  • surface-mounted sinks and sink fittings
  • disposal
  • dishwasher
  • icemaker connections
  • hood/vent cooktops
  • wall ovens and microwaves vinyl flooring
  • range
  • refrigerators, freezers, and icemakers lighting fixtures
  • decorative and finishing elements.

The two items you should note in particular are flooring and appliances. Ceramic tile and hardwood floors are laid before cabinets are installed, whereas vinyl flooring is laid after the cabinets are in place. The plumbing connections for icemakers and dishwashers are generally installed along with the sink, disposal, and dish washer, but the other major appliances—ranges, refrigerators, and trash compactor—are installed last, after vinyl flooring has been laid.



In this guide, instructions for installing all appliances are grouped together as are the floor installations. You can determine the order of your own tasks, but you should plan them according to the most efficient and logical sequence for your kitchen. If you have any questions, refer to the list. or check with the professionals you’re working with.

img_76 “Built-in” is the Installation theme of this kitchen. A central Island in the middle of the parquet floor is topped with a laminate counter trimmed in the same wood used on cabinetry, windowsills, and hood. Custom drawers and shelves of varying shapes provide generous storage on both exterior and interior walls. Because the kitchen has relatively little natural light, contemporary spot lights and hanging lanterns provide the room with balanced lighting.



As mentioned earlier, be sure to turn off your utility lines before you work on any appliances or connections. And bear in mind that instructions will vary according to the type, model, and style of the appliance or element you’re installing. Use the instructions in this section as a guide, but always follow specific manufacturer’s instructions whenever there are differences.

INSTALLING CABINETS

Base and wall cabinets are installed in basically the same way, but it is easier to install the upper units first so you can get at them. Since they hang on the wall, they need to be very secure. Most cabinets—uppers and lowers—come with a scribe allowance at the edges, which meets the wall. This can be planed off so cabinets will be flush against the wall. If the cabinets don’t have this scribe, you’ll want to trim the edges with a small piece of molding. If cabinets go all the way to the ceiling, you’ll want to trim that edge with molding, too.

1. Locate and mark wall studs with a light pencil line drawn from ceiling to floor. Use a board as a straightedge or drop a plumb line. Next, measure the height of the base cabinets and add to it the thickness of the counter top. Take this measurement up from the floor and draw a line across the wall to indicate where the top of the counter surface will touch. Use a board as a straightedge and a level to make sure it is precisely horizontal. Then mark the wall where the bottom of the upper units will rest, which is usually 18 or 19” above the counter surface. Draw a line across the wall, making sure it is parallel to the top of the base units. Attach a 1 by 2 ledger to the wall with the top of the board touching your line for the upper units. Nail it to the studs, and then mark the cabinet widths along its length.

Top of wall units Ceiling; Floor; Distance between counter top and bottom of upper cabinets

2. Make several jacks to support the wall cabinets while you put them in place. Nail wide blocks to each end of a 2 by 4. The total height of the jack should equal the distance from the floor to the bottom of the upper units. Put these jacks in position near the ledger.

3. Before you install the upper units, prepare any cabinets that will house a hood/vent or ducts. Place the cabinet upside down on the floor. Put the hood top on it— upside down and centered or positioned the way you want it. Mark the out line of the vent hole Mark on the base of the cabinet. Drill a starter hole for your saw. Cut around the out line and remove the waste. Then make a paper pattern of the wall or ceiling where this cabinet will go, showing where the end of the duct will enter it. Place the pattern on the back or top of the cabinet and outline the duct hole. Cut this circle out of the cabinet. In stall the cabinet along with all the other wall units as described in the following steps. To install the hood, see below.

Img_ 78a 1 by 2 ledger board as long as the run of upper cabinets; Height of base cabinets plus thickness of counter top;

Img_ 78b Block; 1’; Ledger; Distance from floor to bottom of wall units; 2 by 4; Wall; Block

Img_ 78c Ventilation hood; Duct hole; Upside-down cabinet; Front of cabinet

4. Mark the stud locations of the wall on the cabinet’s hanging cleats, and drill pilot holes for screws, Take off the doors and lift out any loose items. Lift the first cabinet into position, resting it on the ledger and jacks. Check both level and plumb. If necessary, use shims at the back of the cabinet to bring the cabinet into plumb. Insert 2½” screws through the hanging cleat at the back of the cabinet into the studs, Attach all the other wall units the same way. Then screw adjacent units to each other. You may have to loosen wall screws to get the faces to line up. l the level. Then remove the jacks and ledger board. Patch any holes in the wall when the base units are in place.

5. Next, set each base cabinet in place. If your cabinets come with separate bases, set the bases in position and level them, shimming where necessary and anchoring them to the floor. Then place the cabinet units on top of them. If you’re planning to raise the counter height, nail 1 by 4s or 2 by 4s flat to the floor at the front and back edges of the cabinets, level them, and anchor them to the floor. Then set the base units on top of them, shimming where necessary to make them level. As you set base units in place, leave room for appliances. Be sure to check the actual dimensions of your appliances. and then leave ¼ inch clearance—more if you’re using end panels (see Step 6). Check the position of base units against the line on your wail. The tops should be below the line by the thickness of your counter top. Screw all adjacent units together and move your level along the entire bank of cabinets. Shim where necessary. Then check the plumb—the level from front to back. Again, shim where necessary. Attach the entire bank of units to the wall by inserting screws through the top support cleat of the cabinet frame and into the studs.

6. When all your upper and lower units are secured, you can install any end panels ordered with the cabinets. These can box in the appliances on one or both sides or support a counter that ends over a dishwasher or compactor. Attach them to cabinets and floor with small L-brackets. Install shelves or drawer racks, drawer glides, and interior accessory items such as pullout racks or bins. Install door hinges if not already attached, and hang doors. Adjust them to get an even line across the entire run by loosening the hinge screws and sliding the hinge fractionally one way or the other. Tighten the screws and recheck the door.

7. To install kitchen island cabinets, screw individual units together and check for level and plumb on all four sides. Shim if necessary and screw to the floor. If the base is separate, you should fasten it to the floor, first using toe nails or angle brackets, then place and anchor the cabinets to the leveled base.

Bolts or screws; Filler panel; End panel

INSTALLING COUNTERTOPS

If your cabinets are prefinished, you are ready to install the counter tops. If they are not, you should finish them first. Plastic laminate counter tops are best made by a professional and are simply fitted to the walls and screwed to the cabinets from underneath. You’ll want to have the professional measure your space to ensure an exact fit. Ready- made, wood-block counter tops come with a wood backsplash that is screwed to the back edge of the top.

Wood counter tops used near the sink should be water proofed on the top, bottom, and on all exposed sides (such as the sink cutout). You attach these in the same way you attach a plastic laminate counter—by screwing them to the cabinets from underneath. Marble and synthetic marble tops are also easily installed at this point— instructions are illustrated below. Tile counters require some additional preparation.

Synthetic Marble Counters

Some brands of synthetic marble, like Corian, are available in slabs and are almost as easy to work with as wood. You can drill, saw. sand, and glue the material. If you make your own synthetic marble counter, you may have only one choice for the edge—the edge of the slab itself—which is 3/8”, ½”, or 3” thick, unless you have a router, in which case you’ll be able to create a decorative front edge. You might also be able to cut a narrow strip and edge-glue it to give the illusion of a thicker slab, However. you will probably have to butt-join corners rather than miter them. If you wish to you can also trim the flat sides with wood.

1. Measure your counter area from end to end as well as from front to back, Include 1 inch or more for the front and side over hangs and 1 inch to cover any end panels. Make a plan of the counter, including the cutout for the sink and the backsplash or side-splash pieces.

2. Cut both the counter top and backsplash pieces according to your measurements. Wear goggles to protect your eyes from flying particles. Then make the sink cut out as described below.

3. Set the counter top in place and check both level and plumb. Make sure front trim pieces won’t interfere with drawers or doors If they do, trim them, or raise the counter top by placing plywood blocks every few inches all the way around the top of the cabinets Nail the blocks down, replace the counter, and check the level again. If the counter is not level, add shims where necessary.

Imgs 80a, 80b -- Width; Width plus overhang; Measure carefully and include overhang; Synthetic marble slab; Use C-clamps to hold cuffing guide; Nail pieces of plywood scrap to cabinet; Trim pieces; Use masking tape on cutting area to prevent scratches

4. Attach the trim pieces by turning the counter top over and gluing the front and side trim pieces to the underside of the counter, using a recommended glue. Clamp, and let the seal dry overnight. Then scrape off any remnants or remove them with a drop of acetone on a piece of cloth. Next, lay a bead of glue around the tops of the cabinets or plywood blocks. Place the counter in position, press down firmly, and let the glue dry. Finally, attach the backsplash to the counter, snugly against the wall, with the recommended adhesive. Seal the joints and seams with silicone. Wipe away any excess with a wet rag over your finger, forming a smooth concave seam. Seal the wall seam with silicone, and let it dry.

Installing a Marble Counter Top

Natural marble has been used on counters and table tops for centuries. The cool surface makes it ideal for rolling out candies and pastry. Search antique stores or wreckers’ yards for old pieces of marble, and adapt your kitchen counters to make use of your finds. Or, if there is a marble supplier in your area, have a piece custom cut and edged.

1. Measure the area for your marble top and backsplash carefully. If this area is at a lower level (for use as a baking center, for example). allow for side pieces where the counter returns to the standard height. These side pieces can be in a matching marble or any other appropriate material. Take these measurements to a marble dealer and have the pieces cut and edged.

2. Position counter, back. and end pieces to make sure they are even with other counter surfaces and back-splashes. If not, raise the marble slab or the surrounding counter top by nailing plywood blocks to the top frame of the base cabinets.

3. Glue the slab in place. This step may be unnecessary since marble is extremely heavy. However, if you want to be sure that the counter will not shift with use, place a line of glue around the cabinet tops before setting the marble in place. Glue marble side pieces and back- splash to the slab using a recommended adhesive. Ad just these against the wall and other counters for a tight fit.

4. Pun a bead of silicone sealant around the edges, seams, and the sides of adjacent counters. With a damp rag around your finger, form a smooth concave seam. Let the sealant dry before using the counter.

81a Attach front and side trim pieces; then attach counter to cabinet and attach backsplash. Seal joints and seams.

81b Use silicone sealant around all edges and seams

INSTALLING TILE COUNTERTOPS

Laying ceramic tiles on a flat counter or back wall is not difficult, but you need to plan how you want the surface to look and decide what to do with edges, corners, and spaces that are too small for full tiles, For example, you may want a drip-proof front edge or you may prefer to use wood trim for the counter’s edge. If you’re tiling a backsplash area, you must decide how to handle the juncture between the horizontal and vertical surfaces: A curved joint is accomplished with special cove tiles, for instance. If you want to run the tiles all the way up to the undersides of the wall cabinets, you may need to cut the top row of field tiles, but it you stop halfway, you’ll probably want to use a curved-edge trim piece (bullnose tile) on the top row. Trim tiles come in many shapes and styles, and you should be aware of what is available with your particular tile. Measure the total area of counter and backsplash you want to cover, and then calculate the number of trim and field tiles you’ll need. The following instructions refer to a tile counter trimmed with wood edging.

1. Starting at one end or corner of your counter, lay out the front row of field tiles, leaving space for grout lines between each tile and at the front edge. Or, if you’re using trim pieces that curve at the back, start with these. Some tiles have small “ears” for grout channels. If your tiles don’t, purchase a bag of tile spacers—little cross pieces—or make your own out of cardboard or rope.

2. If you don’t have enough space for a full tile at the end of the first row, you have several choices: You can adjust the thickness of the grout lines; you can cut the end tile; you can push back the whole row, including grout spaces, to position the cut tile at the other end of the row; you can center the whole row and position cut tiles at both ends; or you can insert a border row of different-size tiles. The choice is an aesthetic one—all the solutions work equally well. Next, lay a second row at right angles to the first. When you get to the back wall, you’ll have to make the same decisions. If you want a cove tile to join the two surfaces, position that piece and then adjust your field tiles accordingly. You may have to cut the last full tile, or figure out some other solution to odd spaces. When both rows are laid out to your satisfaction, lay out all the other tiles.

Spacers; 1” rope

Installing a Plywood Base for Ceramic Tiles

To make the base for ceramic tiles, cut 5/8” CDX-grade plywood to fit the tops of the base cabinets. The front-to-back depth will vary, depending on whether you want the counter to align with your drawer fronts or to hang over them. Include the thickness of a front trim tile In your calculations for the depth of your counter top (3/8” is normal, but your tiles may be less than /8 inch or you may prefer a deeper overhang), Allow for a similar overhang at any ends of the counter that don’t abut a wall and at the sides and back of peninsulas and is lands. Where your counter turns a corner, you’ll want to lay slabs perpendicular to each other and butted tightly together. Make the cutout for the sink as shown, then position the plywood base on the cabinets, and make sure it is level and plumb. If your cabinets are level, the base should be, too. Placing it snugly against the back wall and any end walls, screw it to the base units using 1½” #8 wood screws. If you are installing a recessed sink, you should do so now. Surface-mounted sinks are installed after tiles are in place.

Img Adjustable space

3. Lay out the backsplash/wall area. If this will consist of only one or two rows, prop one row up along the back wall and lay the other out along the last row of tiles. If you plan a higher splash wall, assemble the tiles on another surface, but make sure the backsplash tiles will align with the surface tiles. Include curved trim pieces for the top row. Lay out your wood trim strips of oak or other hardwood and mark them for cuts and mitered corners.

4. When everything is laid out to your satisfaction, mark all tiles that will be cut, following the instructions in Step 6. If you have to make a lot of cuts, rent a tile saw or take them to your tile supplier. If you have only a few cuts to make, you can score tiles with a glass cutter and snap them.

5. Prepare the plywood base for tile installation. The type of adhesive you use depends on your tiles and base material. If you use mortar, you don’t need to waterproof the plywood—just staple chicken wire over the area. If you’re using wood edging, nail temporary strips to the counter edges to hold the mortar or adhesive.

6. Spread a layer of the appropriate adhesive over the surface with a notched trowel. Let the adhesive get tacky before laying tiles. If recommended on the package, spread a thin, ridged coating of adhesive on the back of each tile as well.

7. Starting at one corner, gently push each tile into the mastic so it makes good contact but the adhesive does not fill the grout channels. Work away from the corner, first in one direction and then in the other. Use spacers. When all the full tiles have been laid, set in the cut or trim pieces.

8. Install the backsplash tiles. Roll waterproofing on wallboard and then spread the adhesive. Starting with the row above cove tiles, spread the back of each tile with adhesive and set each firmly against the wall surface. Then set the next row, using a level to make sure it is even. Make cuts for the top row or install trim pieces.

9. Remove the spacers with tweezers. Mix the grout and, with a light hand, sponge it on until all the channels are more than full and the surface is covered.

10. As the film dries, slowly slide a sponge or squeegee across the surface, removing some at each pass until the grout is only slightly below the tiled surface. Wait for a couple of days before installing sinks, cook- tops, or wood trim. Alter about six weeks, seal the grout with any recommended grout sealer to keep it clean and mildew-free.

Backsplash area, Serrated trowel, Counter top, Temporary strip

INSTALLING SINKS

No matter what your counter material—tile, plastic laminate, synthetic marble, marble, or wood—surface-mounted porcelain sinks are generally installed with clamps and caulking. Sell-rimming porcelain sinks need caulking only, but self-rimming stainless sinks use clamps as well. Recessed sinks are most commonly used with tile counters. Installation is similar to that of self-rimming sinks, except that the unit is set on the plywood base, not on the finished surface. Single-wall stainless sinks are not recommended for recessed installation be cause steel, tile, and mud have different rates of expansion and contraction. Double-wall stainless sinks may work, but porcelain and cast iron are the most common types of sinks used in recessed installations.

1. Place the sink upside down on the counter or plywood deck and position it correctly. Leave at least 1½ inches at the front edge. You can leave more if your counter is deeper than 24 inches, such as on an island or a peninsula, but don’t place it farther than 2 or 3 inches back or it will be hard to reach. It probably will look best centered between the front and back edges. Draw a pencil line around the edge of the sink, then lilt it off. Then draw a second pencil line ½” inside the first outline. Drill a hole at each corner of the inside line. It should be big enough to get your saber saw started. Using the saw, cut between the holes along the inner pencil line, Lift out the waste piece. (If you’re installing a cook- top, you’ll follow this same procedure—place the cooktop upside down on the counter, trace its out line or use the template supplied by the manufacturer, and center it over the base cabinet.)

2. Lay a bead of caulk around the bottom edge of the upside-down sell-rimming sink, position it over the opening. and press down firmly until excess caulk oozes out. Attach any hardware from beneath the sink. Stainless steel sinks come with little clips that you screw tight from underneath. Heavier sinks are supported by a hanging ring that attaches to the underside of the counter top or along the edges of the cutout. Manufacturer’s instructions are included with each type.

84a Upside-down sink; Saber saw; New counter top; Cutting line ½ inch inside sink line

84b Self-Rimming Sink; Holes for starting cutout

INSTALLING FITTINGS and DISPOSALS

Once your sink is in place, you can assemble and install the faucets, connect the water supply, and hook up the drain lines. If you plan to install a tap for instant hot or cold water, you would mount it like the other faucets, following the manufacturer’s directions. It should be plugged into its own 110-volt circuit, and each water device must have its own shutoff valve on the supply line.

1. Mount faucets through three of the holes in the sink or counter top; use plumber’s putty. With an adjustable wrench, tighten up the hardware that holds the faucet in place. All connectors for the water supply lines can be bought as a kit, which includes the pipe (of ten flexible chrome tubing), all hardware shutoff valves, and installation directions. When you buy the kit, specify the diameter and material of your supply pipe. If you’ll be installing a dishwasher, attach a T-shape shutoff valve (specifically de signed for dishwasher connections) to the hot water supply line, and run hot water supply tubing to the dishwasher.

2. Install the basket strainer by packing it with plumber’s putty and pushing it firmly down into place. The strainer is threaded underneath; slip on the washer, then tighten the lock nut around the strainer collar until the basket is pulled down tightly against the basin and the putty oozes out from underneath. Clean off excess.

3. If you’re not installing a garbage disposal, install the P-trap next. Connect the tailpiece to the basket strainer, using a slip nut over a washer. Then connect the P-trap to the tailpiece with a washer and slip nut. Finally, attach the P-trap to the stub-out with a curved drain-extension pipe. Check your work carefully to make sure there are no leaks.

4. If you’re installing a disposal, caulk inside the strainer portion with plumber’s putty. Underneath the strainer are three screw fittings in a collar. Tighten these so the strainer is pulled tightly against the bottom of the sink. Attach the unit’s tail pipe to the P or Y trap. Tighten all the fittings. Before turning on the disposal. make sure all debris is removed from inside the unit. Plug in the disposal to its own 110-volt circuit. Turn it on to test it, running the water at the same time.

Disposal; Plumbers putty; Sink

INSTALLING APPLIANCES

Some of your new, freestanding appliances will need only to be connected to their electrical outlets and pushed into place. This will be true for the freestanding range, the refrigerator with no icemaker, a separate freezer, and the trash compactor. Other appliances will require additional connections for gas, hot and/or cold water, drainage, and ducting, as well as special mounting or attachments.

Dishwashers

Dishwashers have three main connections—the black rubber drain hose, the electrical cord, and the hot water supply line. To prevent waste material from backing up into the dishwasher, an air gap is often used. The dishwasher’s waste line leads up to the vent and drains into a second line leading to the disposal.

1. Drill a hole through the cabinet wall between the dishwasher and sink compartment to accommodate the three connections, Thread them through the hole, leaving a length of flexible copper tubing that will reach the dishwasher’s front connections.

2. Attach the black rubber hose to the disposal by punching out the knockout on the disposal collar and fitting the drain hose to the collar with adjustable hose clamps provided. If an air gap is required, attach the dishwasher hose to the longer of the two hoses in the air gap using hose clamps. Then hook up the shorter tube from the air gap to the collar of the disposal.

3. Attach the hot-water supply line using a wrench to tighten the compression ring and nut at each end so the copper tubing fits snugly to the shutoff valve and to the fitting in front of the dishwasher.

Refrigerators and Icemakers

Refrigerators are about the easiest of all appliances to install. Plug an electric one into its own 110-volt circuit and push it into place. Connect a gas unit to the flexible gas pipe that leads to the valve on the supply line. Call the gas company to check your work before you turn the gas refrigerator on. Although the refrigerator is installed after you have laid your floor, you should put in the connections for an icemaker while you are working on the sink and dishwasher.

1. Attach a T-fitting and shutoff valve on the cold-water supply line under the sink, or put a small T-tap somewhere along this line. If your refrigerator will be located some distance from the sink, run in a new cold water line or tap into another cold water line such as the one to your clothes washer or hot water heater if either is nearer.

2. Drill holes in adjoining base cabinets to accommodate the ‘A-inch flexible copper pipe. Leave a large enough coil in the space for the refrigerator so it can be pulled out without being disconnected.

3. Attach a compression fitting to the end of the copper tubing and leave it until you are ready to in stall the refrigerator.

Drain hose; Hot water hookup; Shutoff valve

Hood/Vent System

A hood/vent is normally installed before the range or cooktop while it is still easy to reach the connections. The holes in the back or top of your wall cabinet should already be cut as described earlier.

1. Connect a piece of 6” or 7” flexible metal ducting to the hood and to the duct pipe that enters the cabinet. If the holes are too close together for a turn, have a sheet metal box with nailing flanges built to your specifications. Make a cardboard box that fits inside the cabinet and covers both holes. mark the openings, and take it to a sheet metal worker.

2. Lift the hood into place, mark the holes for attaching it to the underside of the cabinet, drill pilot holes, and insert screws.

3. Connect the wiring. Attach the wires coming from the wall to the ones on the hood (they are usually behind the diffuser panel), Match similar colored wires and cap them. Be sure to attach the ground wire. Push the wires back into the metal receptacle, screw bulbs into the light fixtures, and replace the diffuser.

Soffit

4. Connect the hood collar to the duct. This may involve wrapping silver duct tape around both or tightening a metal collar that leads to the damper. If you are using a sheet metal box, fit the venting mechanism into the box and run a bead of caulk around the flanges. Then nail them to the cabinet, Test the fan, vent, and light.

Cooktops

Commercial gas. Commercial gas cooktops sit on their own legs on top of a lowered base cabinet (which can be tiled on the top) and between base units. Steel guard strips are commonly used to protect wood or untiled cabinet edges. Connect the gas line by attaching flexible tubing to both the cooktop unit and to the gas valve, which should be located in the cabinet unit below.

Gas or electric. cooktops de signed for residential use are in stalled much the same as a sink, hanging through a cutout in the counter top. Follow the instructions, to remove this cutout section. Apply plumber’s putty under the lip of the unit to seal it to the counter. Supplied fasteners should be tightened from below. Wire an electric unit into its own box, which should now be in the cabinet below. For a gas cooktop, connect the flexible tubing to the gas valve, which should also be in the base cabinet.

Downvent. Some cooktops are de signed to direct heat and fumes down rather than up. Depending on the manufacturer, the duct is connected at the side or through the back of the cabinet. Templates for cutting the duct holes are supplied with each model. Follow the instructions for cutting these holes and the procedures outlined above for connecting the flexible and metal ducts.

Duct through wall or floor; Fasten hood with screws; Pop-up downvent

Ranges and Ovens

Electric. A freestanding electric range has its own pigtail cord for plugging into a separate 220-volt circuit. To install this type of range, simply plug in the unit and slide it into place.

Gas. Hook up the gas supply line with flexible tubing, using pipe dope putty and the nuts at both ends. If your range has a pilotless ignition system, it must also be plugged into a 110-volt circuit. Call the utility company to check out your gas connections before positioning the range in its permanent position.

Built-in ovens. Gas and electric connections for wall ovens are the same as above and are usually located in an adjacent cabinet. Duct attachments for ovens are also similar to those discussed with hood/vents. To attach ovens to surrounding cabinetry. lift them into place and tighten any screw connections to the sides, top, or bottom.

Drop-in Gas and electric drop-in ranges are connected in the same manner described above. but in stead of sliding into place, they are installed above a low base cabinet unit. They either hang from flanges at the counter level or are attached with screws to the base cabinet below and/or to adjacent units, To install these units, hook up the electric or gas connections and then follow the manufacturer’s instructions for making the permanent attachments.

Depending on the model. either the lace flanges will lap over the cutout edges of the cabinet or you’ll install special trim kit pieces that come with the oven or cabinet to bridge the gaps. A microwave plugs into any 110-volt circuit and may not need to be trimmed or attached.

Trash Compactor

These extremely heavy appliances are relatively easy to install. Just plug the cord into the 110-volt circuit you have provided, and then spray some soapy water on the floor to help slide it into position. Adjust any leveling legs.

No screws; Base; Screws into base; Screws info side cabinets; Microwave sits in cutout area ; Supporting shelf; outlet; Wall oven attached to supporting shelf

INSTALLING LIGHT FIXTURES

Installing new light fixtures is a job that can be easily handled by even a novice do-it-yourselfer. However, the precise mounting methods vary with the individual model so you should refer to the manufacturer’s instructions. If you are changing the location of a light fixture, the new wiring should already be in place.

Standard ceiling fixtures. Unscrew the fuse or shut off the circuit breaker that powers the fixture on which you are working. If you have any doubts about whether or not the power is off, shut off all the electrical power at your service panel. Have someone hold the fixture for you while you match the wires from the light to those in the wall or ceiling. Twist similarly colored wires together and fasten them with wire caps. Attach screw mountings or thread a ceiling unit onto the central post. Slip on any face plates and screw them into place. Then turn the power back on. For more detailed instructions on installing ceiling and wall fixtures, refer to our Basic Wiring Techniques.

Track lights. Turn off the circuit that powers the lights you’re working on. Replace the old ceiling cover with a special canopy box that is supplied with the lights. This canopy covers up the ceiling box and is grooved or slotted to accept the track. If the holes in the canopy box don’t match up with those in the ceiling box, use an adaptor ring that offers several adjustable hole combinations. Attach the canopy’s wires to the ceiling-box wires, capping similar colors. Screw the adaptor ring to the ceiling box, turning it this way and that until you find the right hole alignments. Then screw the canopy to the ring, possibly through a separate canopy plate if your model is not a single piece. Slide the track into the canopy box. Through each screw hole in the track, mark the ceiling with a pencil. Remove the track and drill pilot holes for toggle bolts. Put the track back into position and screw the toggles into the ceiling. Snap the light units into the track. When the connectors are in place, secure the lights with the locking levers. Position the light units so they will shed the most light on your work surfaces. Turn on the power to test where the cones of light fall, Swivel and tip the lights so that the beams fall where you want them. If the lights are too far apart or too close, slide each one along the track until the light lands where you want it. Then relock any levers that secure the units in the track.

89a Strap; Lock nut; Stud; Threaded hole; Glass holder; Socket; Track

89b Power feed conductor canopy box

 

INSTALLING SHEET VINYL FLOORING

Because vinyl conforms to the surface beneath it, the underlayment should be very smooth. Bumps and bulges will show and could eventually damage the vinyl. Sheet vinyl requires very careful cutting, and you may prefer to let a professional do this. But if you have the patience, the procedure is relatively straightforward. Try to select a roll width that will not require butting two sheets together. If your kitchen is quite large, this may not be possible. but check out the widths available to you. The easiest way to cut your sheet to size is to unroll it in another room, and draw your kitchen layout directly on the vinyl. Then you can install it loosely or with adhesive. The loose-laid method, illustrated below, allows for subtle shifts in your walls and floor.

1. Prepare the subfloor by making sure that it is clean, smooth, and even, and that there are no protruding screws or nail heads that will pierce the new flooring. Remove any baseboards, and care fully measure your kitchen floor. Measurements around islands, peninsulas, curves, and corners should be very precise. If you’re worried about accuracy, cut and tape pieces of paper together to make a pattern that entirely covers the floor.

2. Make sure the vinyl is at room temperature before working with or cutting it. Vinyl is very brittle and can snap when cold. Unroll the sheet in another room and transfer your measured outline or paper pattern to the sheet. If the vinyl has a design on it, make sure your floor pattern is straight. To protect your floor, place a thick piece of cardboard under the area you want to cut. Using a tile or utility knife and a straightedge, cut around your outline or paper pat tern. Leave a few inches of extra vinyl on all sides to allow for errors. You can trim away the extra when you’re installing the flooring.

3. Take the sheet to your kitchen and position it on top of the sub- floor you are covering. Make sure the design is straight, then cut around all edges so that they lay flat and come within ½” of the wall or base cabinets. This space allows for expansion and contraction of walls and floor. Molding or baseboards will cover the gap.

4. Replace or Install baseboards by nailing them into the floor but not through the vinyl. Or place a piece of cardboard between the vinyl and baseboard (to make sure there is a slight gap between the two) and nail the baseboard to the wall. If you prefer, attach a matching or contrasting vinyl or rubber cove, glued to the wall. Screw on a metal threshold strip at any doorway to protect the edge of the vinyl.

90a

90b Replace baseboard

INSTALLING VINYL FLOOR TILES

Like sheet vinyl, vinyl tiles conform to the surface of the underlayment, so this surface must be free of bumps, bulges, or other irregularities. Unlike sheet vinyl, vinyl tiles are easier to install because you don’t have to handle an unwieldy roll of material, and you can make tricky cuts on the spot, But tiles are slightly more expensive than sheet vinyl, and if they become loose, water can seep underneath, creating a potential rot problem. Therefore, careful installation is essential. To lay out your pattern, follow the procedure outlined in Steps 1 and 2 for Ceramic Floor Tiles. Steps 3-a of the ceramic floor tile instructions detail how to begin laying your tiles in one squared-off corner. Step 2 below shows you how to begin at the center of the room, Either approach will work, and you can follow the one you prefer. The idea is simply to determine where you want to place your cut tiles and then to be sure your rows are absolutely straight and even.

1. Follow Steps 1 and 2 for Ceramic Floor Tiles: Establish the center point of your kitchen, snap two chalk lines to create exact 90-degree angles, lay out two perpendicular rows of tiles to establish your pattern, and determine where you want to place cut tiles.

2. When you’ve adjusted both rows, position your four center tiles. Using the adhesive recommended by the tile manufacturer, set these four tiles. Then, starting with the quarter of the room farthest from the door, fill in that section of the floor first. Mastics harden quickly, so cover only a small portion of the section at a time. Use only full tiles and move toward the walls in the sequence indicated. Complete each quarter of the floor in the same way as the first.

3. When all the full tiles are in place, mark, cut, and install your border tiles. To do this, turn one full tile upside down, lay it over the gap between the wall and your covered floor, and mark it where it overlaps the full tile. This will give your border tiles an exact fit with the wall. Measure and cut each border tile separately in case your wall is not straight. Then apply the adhesive and set each cut tile in place. Apply silicone seal around the bases of all cabinets and appliances. The adhesive should be dry within 24 hours, and then you can install the baseboard or molding of your choice.

91 Border tile space; Cut tile in place

INSTALLING CERAMIC FLOOR TILE

Procedures for laying tiles vary for different sizes and thicknesses of tiles. Thick paver tiles are commonly set with tile adhesive on a thick bed of dry mortar. Applying a mortar bed is a job for a skilled professional—you have to work fast to smooth and level the floor before the mortar sets. Thinner, smaller tiles are commonly set over cement board or old vinyl flooring. In these cases, you can simply spread epoxy adhesive over your patched and leveled surface. For areas that frequently get wet, spread a smooth layer of adhesive as a sealant before spreading the ridged layer. Because floor tiles are thicker than counter-top tiles, you may want to rent a commercial tile cutter if you have many cuts to make. Tile nippers will work for small trim jobs, but not for the big ones. Always wear goggles to protect your eyes when cutting tiles. Most floor tiles do not come with special trim pieces, and if you want baseboards or molding, you can choose any that seem to fit your design.

1. Starting from the center of a doorway. snap a chalk line across the kitchen, making sure that it is exactly perpendicular to the doorway. Then snap another chalk line perpendicular to the first, so the lines cross at precisely 90 degrees. Then, starting with a full tile at the doorway, lay out a row of tiles along your first chalk line, leaving space for grout between the tiles—use tile spacers.

2. When you get to the end of the line, a full tile may not fit in the remaining space. You’ll have several options: Leave the row as it is and put a cut tile here, or shift the row back and put the cut tile at the doorway; shift the row to allow cut tiles of equal size at both ends; or slightly increase or decrease the width of all the grout lines. Choose the option you like best and adjust the row accordingly. Using your second chalk line as a guide, lay out another row of tiles perpendicular to the first. At the end of this row, decide where you want to place your cut tiles, and adjust the row accordingly. Then slide one of the rows over so the common tile aligns with both rows.

3. Next, draw a line on the floor to mark the back edge of the last full tile in one row. This line must be exactly perpendicular to the chalk line and perfectly straight even if the wall is not. Then mark the back edge of the last full tile in the other row. Draw another line the length of the room and make sure the two lines form an exact 90-degree angle at the corner. Nail down a long, straight 1 by 2 along each line, giving you a perfectly square corner from which to start laying your tiles.

92 Chalk line; Space: You may have to adjust one of the two rows so they line up at the common tile.

4. Starting in the corner, spread adhesive over an approximately 3-foot-square section, using a ser rated trowel. Then gently press the corner tile into place. Inserting spacers between tiles, continue until you have finished tiling the section. Repeat this process until you have covered the floor with all the full tiles. Tamp down uneven tiles by placing a length of 2 by 4 covered with scrap carpet on the floor and tapping it gently with a mallet.

5. When the adhesive has set enough so you can walk on the floor, remove the battens and make your tile cuts. Place one tile squarely on top of the last tile in the row and another tile on top of that one. Push the top tile over the empty space, allowing for two grout lines. Using the top tile as a straightedge, draw a line across the middle tile. This is your cutting line. Measure each cut tile individually and mark them all so you’ll know where each should go. Then cut all the tiles.

6. Apply adhesive to the back of each cut tile and set it in place, leaving space for the grout lines. Allow the adhesive to set the required amount of time, Using a hard- edged window-washing squeegee, spread grout across the entire surface. Smooth the grout lines with the end of a toothbrush. Remove the excess film of grout on tile surfaces by making repeated light passes with a damp sponge until the surface is clean. Let the grout dry bet ore walking on the floor. After several 93 Thickness of two grout channels; Border space; Cut each border tile separately— the wall may be uneven and each cut tile should fit exactly; Border tiles in place—check for fit; Adhesive; Grout

 

THE FINAL RESULT

Here is the final result of the remodeling project used as a sample throughout this guide. You first saw it in its “before” stage, and then saw its plan develop as you worked out your own design. Now note the changes. On the range wall, light oak cabinets replace dark ones, pushing out the walls and lengthening the room with strong horizontal lines. Small blue tiles set in white grout are repeated, In reverse, In blue- on-white “graph” wallpaper. A synthetic marble slab creates an efficient baking/serving counter to the right of the range. Track fixtures beam light on work surfaces and a simple fixture lights the eating area at night. On the sink wall the refrigerator door no longer blocks dishwasher loading, and dishes can be stacked on the new stain less drainboard. At the white laminate table (right), a square clock picks up the oak wood, and natural light brightens the entire area. Much of this guide was written in this cheerful spot.

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Updated: Monday, 2012-01-23 1:02