| HOME | Troubleshooting | DIY Tips |
|
This section introduces basic tests and repairs that are common to almost all major appliances, from checking power cords to patching minor nicks and scratches. Illustrations reveal the electrical, plumbing and gas hookups that allow various appliances to function, and demonstrate how to work safely with each system. Wiring diagrams and timer charts--the invaluable road maps to an appliance's wiring--are explained. Advice on buying replacement parts, and how to deal with a professional when all else fails. You can handle most appliance repairs with the basic tool kit shown below. For the best results, buy the best tools you can afford, use the right tool for the job, and take the time to care for and store them properly. To prevent rust, clean metal tools after every use with a rag moistened with a few drops of light machine oil. (Don't oil handles; you could lose your grip.) Rust is best removed by buffing with fine steel wool and oil or kerosene. Avoid electrical shock by using only pliers and screwdrivers with insulated handles, or handles wrapped in electrical tape. Protect tools in a sturdy plastic or metal toolbox, with a secure lock if stored around children. Specialized tools, such as a multitester, can often be rented from the same appliance-parts supply stores where you will buy replacement parts. === Putty knife Useful for prying open panels; Tape edge with masking tape to protect appliance, Utility knife Extra blades are stored in hollow handle. Flat-tipped screwdrivers: Tip widths of 1/8, 3/16, 1/4 and 5/16 inch fit most standard screw-heads. Phillips screwdrivers: Available in five sizes, numbered 0 through 4; Nos. 1 and 2 will fit most Phillips-head screws. In Canada, square-head (Robertson) screws may be found instead. Slip-joint (utility) pliers: General-purpose tool for gripping and bending. Don’t use to turn nuts or bolts-it will round oft the corners. Long-nose pliers: For electrical work and holding small screws and bolts. Wire Stripper: Cuts, bends and crimps electrical wiring, and removes insulation. End of wrench fits setscrews: Hex wrenches knobs and motor pulleys, typically used to secure handles, (Socket wrenches; Ratchet handle reverses direction to tighten or loosen nuts and bolts; Sockets are available in various lengths and depths. Nut drivers: Tighten and loosen smaller nuts and bolts, particularly those securing panels and trim. Adjustable wrench: Always turn an adjustable wrench so that the load is applied to the stronger fixed jaw. The well-stocked tool kit should also include: Open-end wrenches, electrical tape, masking tape, duct tape, sandpaper, utility bar, fuse puller, and an old toothbrush. ==== DIAGNOSING ELECTRICAL PROBLEMS Troubleshooting with electrical testers. From its source at the wall outlet, an electrical current travels through the power cord, switches, timers, thermostats, heating elements, motors and other parts that make up the electrical system of a major appliance. A part may allow the current to pass through it unimpeded (a power cord, a switch in the ON position); it may interrupt the current completely (a switch in the OFF position, a blown fuse); or it may partially block the current (to heat a range element or propel a motor). Throughout this guide two simple testing devices-the continuity tester and the multitester-are used to determine whether an electrical part is doing its job. Both testers are battery-powered, and send a small electrical current through the part being tested. The continuity tester simply indicates whether all the current is passing through the part (continuity) or whether the current is partially or completely blocked (resistance). A multitester, also called a volt-ohmmeter, provides a precise measurement of the amount of resistance encountered by the current. Using a continuity tester. First check the tester's battery by touching the alligator clip to the probe; the bulb should light. To test for an uninterrupted circuit (through a cartridge fuse, in this example), place the clip against one end of the fuse and the probe against the other end. If current from the tester meets any resistance, the tester won’t light; if the circuit is complete, the bulb will glow. Ohms scale Measures electrical resistance; symbol is "R" or: RX1: This scale indicates actual amount of resistance RX10: Multiply reading by 10 RX100: Multiply reading by 100 RX1K: Multiply reading by 1000 Using a multitester. A multitester gives an exact reading of the amount of resistance present in an electrical circuit, as measured in ohms. Zero ohms indicates continuity-the complete lack of resistance. For low resistance readings, up to 200 or 500 ohms (depending on your tester), set the selector switch of the multi tester to RX1. When greater resistance is being tested, change the setting to RX10 (and multiply the reading by 10), RX100 (multiply by 100) or RXK (multiply by 1,000). To use the multitester, first set the selector switch on the specified scale. To ensure an accurate reading, "zero" the multitester by clamping the probes together. The needle will sweep from left to right down to ZERO; turn the ohms-adjust dial until the nee die aligns directly over ZERO. In this example, an electric range heating element is being tested for resistance. Set the multitester to the RX1 scale and place the probes against each element terminal (above, right). A properly working range element will cause the needle to sweep upscale, indicating partial resistance. If not, the element is faulty and should be replaced. To test the element for grounding, set the multitester on the RXK scale. Touch one probe to a terminal and the other to the coil sheathing. (inset). If the needle moves at all, there is a potentially dangerous current leakage and the element should be replaced. WORKING WITH ELECTRICITY From the utility company's power lines, electricity enters your home through an electric meter and into the main service panel- a circuit-breaker panel in newly wired houses and a fuse panel in older wiring systems. From the service panel, electricity is distributed throughout the house by a number of separate circuits. A circuit is the closed path that electrical current follows from a power source (service panels and outlets) through various switches, fixtures and appliances, and then back to the source. The strength, or pressure, of the electrical current moving through a circuit is measured in volts. The rate of current flow is measured in amperes (amps). Low-capacity circuits of 120 volts and 15 amperes are adequate for most lamps, TV sets and small appliances. Most major appliances require heavier-capacity circuits of 120 volts and 20 amperes. Individual circuits of 240 volts and 30 to 50 amperes are required for clothes dryers and electric ranges. These voltages are nominal; the actual voltage delivered by the power company may vary by 10 percent. A third measurement-wattage-is calculated by multiplying volts by amperes. Wattage describes how much electricity is being converted by an appliance into another form of energy such as heat or motion. Thus a 24-amp clothes dryer on a 240-volt circuit consumes about 5,600 watts of energy. Total energy consumption is calculated by multiplying the power (expressed in 1,000-watt units called kilowatts) by the amount of time an appliance is kept running. The result is kilowatt-hours (kwh). If the 5600-watt clothes dryer is used for one hour, it will consume 5.6 kilowatt-hours, which will be tallied by the meter and added to your electric bill. Circuit breakers and fuses protect the individual electrical circuits in your home. Throughout this guide, you will be directed to shut off power to an appliance either by pulling its plug, tripping its circuit breaker or removing its fuse (below). Caution: When working on the service panel, always keep one hand free-or stand on a dry wooden board or rubber mat-to avoid the possibility of shock due to accidental grounding. Resetting a tripped circuit breaker. When a circuit is over loaded, the circuit breaker toggle automatically flips to OFF or an intermediate position, shutting off power. When this happens, first locate and correct the problem in the circuit or appliance. Then reset the circuit breaker by moving it fully to the OFF position, then back to ON. Replacing a fuse. When a circuit protected by a plug-type fuse overloads, the metal strip inside the fuse melts. If there is a short in the circuit, the fuse window will become blackened. Remove the fuse by turning it counterclockwise; replace it with a fuse of identical amperage. Cartridge fuses, which protect circuits up to 240 volts, show no signs of damage and must be checked with a continuity tester (131). POWER CORDS AND TERMINAL BLOCKS Carrying current from outlet to appliance. Perhaps the most common appliance problem is that electricity cannot get to the machine. If an appliance does not work at all, first check the main service panel for a blown fuse or tripped circuit breaker (132). If the problem is not found there, next inspect the power cord and plug (below). Power cords are made of separately insulated wires, sheathed together, that carry electricity from the wall outlet through a plug to the appliance and back. Usually a simple visual inspection will locate any faults. A broken or wobbling plug prong, cracked or burned insulation, or a loose connection at the cord sleeve all indicate a break in the circuit-and that both the cord and plug should be replaced. Never splice a power cord. Invisible damage, such as a break or short in the wiring, is harder to trace. Shaking the cord sometimes briefly reestablishes a lost connection and may point to trouble in the cord or the terminal block. A more reliable method is to test the cord with a continuity tester or a multitester. Since the early 1970s, all major appliances have been manufactured with grounded plugs in accordance with national and local electrical codes. Power cords should always be plugged into matching three- or four-prong outlets. Grounding adapter plugs should never be used to adapt an appliance to a two-prong out let-the plug is useless unless the outlet itself is grounded. If you suspect that the outlet intended for an appliance is not grounded, have an electrician test it and, if necessary, install a grounded out let or a ground-fault circuit interrupter. To inspect and test a power cord, pull the appliance away from the wall, taking care not to disturb supply pipes or exhaust ducts. Gas ranges and dryers with flexible supply hoses can be pulled away from the wall, but don’t move a gas appliance with a rigid supply pipe-call the gas company or a service technician. SERVICING 120-VOLT POWER CORDS 1. Access to the power cord connector. The power cord enters a 120-volt appliance through the back of the machine, and can be accessed in one of two ways: By lifting the top (above) or by removing a cover plate or rear access panel (inset). Unplug the machine; remove the nuts or screws securing the cover plate or rear access panel, or open the top of the appliance. If you don't see the power cord connection, trace the cord into the machine to locate it. (See also the access steps for each appliance.) 2. Disconnecting the power cord. Power cords for most 120-volt appliances (except refrigerators) are connected to the internal wiring of the machine by a small plug (above). Pull apart the two halves of the plug and inspect the cord terminals for damage. If the terminals are' corroded or out of alignment, or the plug itself is cracked or burned, power cannot reach the appliance properly and the cord should be replaced step 4). 3. Testing the power cord. Attach the clip of a continuity tester to one of the flat prongs on the power cord. Touch the tester probe to one of the terminals in the internal plug, then to the other terminal. The tester should glow against one, but not both terminals. Repeat this test with the other flat prong and replace the cord if faulty. Next, detach the ground wire connected to the cabinet, and test it for continuity against the round prong. If the tester does not light, replace the cord. 4. Replacing the power cord. Some power cords have a molded strain relief that prevents the cord from being pulled from the machine and damaging the wiring. To free the cord, remove the hinge that holds the cord to the cabinet (above). Connect the new cord to the internal wiring, attach the ground wire to the cabinet and position the strain relief on the back panel before retightening the hinge. If the strain relief is attached to the cabinet, squeeze it with pliers to free the cord (inset). SERVICING 240-VOLT POWER CORDS 1. Access to the terminal block. The power cords of 240 volt appliances are connected to the machine's internal wiring via a terminal block. (Some 120-volt refrigerators also have terminal blocks.) If the appliance fails, or if a heating element doesn't heat, both the power cord and terminal block should be checked for damage. Turn off power to the appliance and remove the cover plate where the cord enters the back of the machine. Inspect the terminal block for loose, burned, broken or corroded wires. At any visible sign of damage, replace the terminal block. 2. Disconnecting the power cord. To test the power cord for internal damage, first disconnect it from the terminal block. Label the wires for reassembly and, depending on your machine, either pull off the wire connectors or remove the screws or hex nuts holding the wires in place, as shown. 3. Testing the power cord. Touch the probe of a continuity tester to one of the flat prongs on the power cord plug. Touch the other tester probe to the terminals of the three wires in turn. The tester should glow against only one of the terminals. Repeat this test with the other flat prong; the tester should glow against a different terminal. Replace the cord if faulty. Next, touch the tester probe to the ground prong, and the other probe to the terminal of the middle wire; the tester should light. If you have a four-prong, four-wire power cord, test the top middle ground plug against the ground wire. Test the bottom middle plug against the middle wire to the terminal block. The tester bulb should glow; if not, replace the cord. 4. Replacing the power cord. To replace a power cord with a four-prong plug, first remove the screw securing the ground wire to the cabinet. It the cord is protected by a metal strain relief, loosen it (above) and pull the cord through the back of the cabinet. Newer appliances may have a plastic strain relief that is molded on the cord; pry the cord free with a flat-tipped screwdriver (inset). If you are replacing the terminal block, go to step 5. Otherwise, feed the new power cord through the back of the cabinet, wire it to the terminal block, and replace the cover plate. 5. Disconnecting the terminal block. If the terminal block appears cracked, corroded or burned, replace it. The machine's internal wiring is attached to the block either with push-on connectors, as shown, or with screw-and-eyelet connectors. Label the wires for reassembly, then pull off or unscrew the connectors. Disconnect the ground wire or metal grounding strap leading from the terminal block to the cabinet. 6. Replacing the terminal block. Remove the terminal block mounting screws or nuts and lift the block from the cabinet (above). Install a replacement terminal block with the proper rating for your make and model of appliance. Reattach the ground wire or strap, connect the internal wires and power cord wires to their proper terminals and replace the cover plate. REPAIRING DAMAGED WIRING Reading a wire. The internal wiring of a major appliance (above) is made of many thin copper or aluminum strands wrapped together and sheathed in thermoplastic or fiberglass insulation (Older appliances may have asbestos insulation., The diameter, or thickness, f the wire is indicated by a gauge number, usually printed on the insulation. The smaller the number, the thicker the wire and the more current it can carry. Most appliances use No. 6 to No. 12 wires (inset). The particular gauge is determined by the wire's function and the amount of current that it must carry. Electric dryers and ranges, which run on 240 volts, require lower-gauge wiring than 1 20-volt appliances such as washers or refrigerators. If a wire is burned, broken, corroded or shows resistance when checked with a multitester or continuity tester, it should be repaired or replaced. A damaged section of wire may be cut off, and a new wire spliced on. A permanently wired part that is faulty must be cut off, and a new part spliced in its place. In either case, the wires can be joined in one of two ways: by twisting them into a wire cap, or by inserting them into a crimp connector. Before working with wiring, shut off power to the appliance. 1. Removing damaged wiring. Most damage, particularly burned or oxidized terminals, is visible. But if you suspect a wire has hidden damage, run your fingers along it from terminal to terminal while gently bending and twisting it. If you locate a bump or sudden limpness, that section should be snipped off with wire cutters (above), 2. Stripping insulation. Insert the wire into a matching slot on a pair of wire strippers. (The gauges of the wire and slot must be the same.) Close the tool and twist it back and forth until the insulation is severed and can be pulled off the wire (above). Strip about 1/4 inch of insulation from each wire to be spliced. If you are splicing two different wires, proceed to step 3; if you are rejoining the same wire, or replacing a terminal connector, go to step 5. 3. Twisting the wires together. Hold the wires together, as shown, and twist them clockwise into a pigtail.' Higher gauge (thin) wire can be twisted by hand. To twist lower gauge (thick) wire, long-nose pliers may be needed. 4. Securing the splice. Slip a wire cap over the pigtail and screw the cap clockwise until it’s tight and no bare wire remains exposed (above). To make sure that the wires won’t jar loose, secure the cap with electrical tape (inset). Wrap the tape around the base of the cap, then once or twice around the wires, and finally around the base of the cap again. 5. Splicing wires with crimp connectors. Be sure to use a crimp connector of the same gauge as the broken wire. (Crimp connectors are color-coded by thickness.) If you are joining wires, cut and strip the two wire ends (step 2), and insert them into the connector, as shown. To replace a terminal connector, choose a crimp-style connector (inset) of the appropriate gauge and type. 6. Securing the connection. Use the crimping jaws of a wire stripper to pinch the connector near both ends. Check that no bare wires are visible, and gently tug on the wires to make sure the connections are secure, before pushing the wiring back into the appliance. READING WIRING DIAGRAMS AND TIMER CHARTS Though the wires inside a major appliance may resemble a confusing maze, there are several aids to deciphering the machine's internal workings. One is the wiring diagram, a schematic drawing that uses various symbols to show how the machine's wires and electrical components are connected. Another is the timer chart (or cam chart), showing which switches are in operation during an appliance's various cycles, and for how long. On most large appliances, both diagrams will be found glued to an access panel or tucked inside the control console. If yours are missing, write or call the manufacturer for copies. The wiring diagram is a road map of the circuit, or loop, by which electrical current travels from the power cord, through a sequence of switches, timers, motors or heating elements, and back to the power source. In some cases the lines, indicating wires, split off in more than one direction, depicting separate loops within the main circuit. By tracing a circuit from start to finish, you will be able to test the components in their correct sequence, and thus pinpoint your problem quickly. While the styles of wiring diagrams vary, a number of symbols are common to all of them (below). Say, for example, that you close the door of your electric dryer, set the timer and press the start button, but the machine does not work. First, make sure the dryer is plugged in and receiving power. Then consult the wiring diagram to begin testing its electrical components in order. The diagram is of a typical dryer. Start at the power source, shown at the top by the symbol for a grounded three-prong plug. Since dryers require a large current, there are three incoming wires, here marked "L1" for Line 1, "L2" for Line 2, and "N" for the neutral wire. The 240-volt current that flows between L1 and L2 powers the heating element of the dryer. Since the problem is not a lack of heat, concentrate on the 120-volt circuit (highlighted in the illustration) that powers the appliance's motor and some of the switches. Malfunction might be anywhere on this circuit. Following the from L1, you first come to a switch marked Y-BG. This is € switch; with the timer turned on, power can reach the other components in the circuit. Test the timer with a multitester. Procedures are described in the dryers section. D the timer test OK? Ti move along to the next component, re switch, marked D-Di. When the dryer door is closed, so is t A' allowing electricity through the circuit. Test the switch- work? If so, test the next component, a switch marked controlled by the start button. If there's no problem there, a the next part, the drive motor? Use a multitester to test oper resistance. If it passes the test, go on to the next compo i a thermal fuse. Here the continuity tester light does not glow- pc -have found the problem. Replace the burned-out fuse, and the e- will work-unless a faulty thermostat has caused the fuse to Find the thermostat symbols on the 240-volt circuit, locate the thermostats in the machine and begin testing them.) Wiring diagrams for such 120-volt appliances as washers and refrigerators usually show only two incoming wires. These may be marked "Li" and "N," or distinguished by the color of the wires: black for Li and white for neutral. A third wire might be marked "G" for ground. Sometimes wires in the diagram are labeled by their color, such as "Y" for yellow, or "PK-BK" for striped pink and black. The timer chart (138) works with the wiring diagram to further pinpoint the source of a problem. In another example, you have set the dryer on Permanent Press, and find that your clothes are wrinkled and hot when the cycle is over. According to the sample chart, timer switch Y-R is supposed to be open for the last 10 minutes of the Permanent Press cycle, shutting off the heat and allowing the clothes to dry wrinkle-free. Could switch Y-R be malfunctioning? Test the timer; if the switch works, test the other components on the same circuit. WIRING DIAGRAM SYMBOLS AND TIMER CHART COMPONENT | SYMBOL MOTOR (SINGLE-SPEED) MOTOR (MULTI-SPEED) STARTING CAPACITOR WIRE TERMINAL PERMANENT WIRE CONNECTION WIRES CROSS OVER (NO CONNECTION) WIRES CROSS OVER (NO CONNECTION) HEATER (WATTAGE SHOWN) HEATER (WATTAGE SHOWN) THERMOSTAT THERMOSTAT OVERLOAD PROTECTOR CENTRIFUGAL SWITCH (OR MOTOR START SWICHT) TIMER SWITCH AUTOMATIC SWITCH OR MANUAL SWITCH PUSH-TO-START SWITCH RESISTOR (OHMS SHOWN) TERMINAL BOARD BUZZER RELAY NEON LIGHT FLUORESCENT LIGHT INCANDESCENT LIGHT 3-PRONG PLUG GROUND (EARTH) CHASSIS
SAMPLE TIMER CHART FOR AN ELECTRIC DRYER When a switch is closed, electrical power can pass through it.
The timer chart identifies Y-R and Y-BG as the timer switches. The timer advances the dryer through its cycles, and determines whether the heater is ON or OFF.
Cross-hatching indicates the period for which the switch is closed; number indicates running time in minutes.
The Y-R switch is open, or off, for 10 minutes of the Permanent Press cycle—the heater is off during that period.
== SAMPLE WIRING DIAGRAM FOR A CLOTHES DRYER Timer switch. With timer on, switch power to reach closes, allowing other components. To switch. When door is closed, switch allows current to pass through circuit. Start switch. Turns on motor when pushed. Drive motor. Push-to-start switch energizes “start” and “run” windings. When motor reaches operating speed, centrifugal switch 5M-6M diverts power to run winding only. Ground. Indicates that—the wire is grounded to the dryer cabinet. Thermal fuse. Protects against overheating. If — a thermostat fails, this fuse blows, shutting off the dryer. Centrifugal switch 1M that power does not reach the heater unless the drum is turning and the blower operating. Resistor. Lowers the power coming from the heating element from 240 to 120 volts, so that it can be handled by the timer motor. === WORKING WITH GAS Locating shutoff valves. Gas enters your home via a main sup ply line, passes through a meter that measures usage, then travels to gas appliances by means of galvanized pipes. A main shutoff valve near the meter opens and closes the gas supply to the entire house. Individual shutoff valves are usually located on the supply pipe at the back of each appliance. Shutoff valves vary in appearance, but all operate the same way. When the key or handle is parallel to the supply pipe, the valve is open; when it’s perpendicular, the valve is closed. If you cannot move the valve by hand, use pliers or a wrench. If you smell gas and suspect a leak, open doors and windows, close the main shutoff valve, then call the gas company (12). If there is a faint odor of gas, check to see that all pilots are lit, and check for a leak by brushing a soap-and-water solution onto pipe fittings (126). If the solution bubbles, tighten the fitting or call for service. WORKING WITH PLUMBING Water supply and drainage. From the large water main that enters your house, supply pipes branch out to carry water to appliances and fixtures. A shutoff valve, usually located between the water meter and foundation wall, allows you to stop all flow of water into the house in the event of an emergency (13). Individual appliances have their own supply pipes and shutoff valves. Both the hot- and cold-water supply lines to a washing machine are fitted with simple gate valves (above, left). The washer drain-pipe must be higher than the water level of the machine, or it will siphon water from the tub at the wrong time. A dishwasher is connected to the hot-water supply line of the kitchen sink. If the dish washer has no shutoff valve of its own, its water supply can be turned off by closing the valve on the sink’s hot-water pipe. Both dishwashers and garbage disposers share the sink drainpipe (above, right). Many local plumbing codes require both appliances to be installed with an air gap that prevents back siphonage. COSMETIC REPAIRS Touching up a damaged cabinet. Even minor nicks and scratches can be unsightly when an appliance is in a visible location in your home. Enamel touch-up kits are available at hardware or auto-sup ply stores; for a special color you may need to ask the manufacturer or a parts supply dealer. Before painting, remove any rust with fine sandpaper or the edge of a razor blade. Clean the area, allow it to dry thoroughly, then apply the paint with a small artist's brush. Deep nicks and scratches can be filled with several layers of paint. Wait for each layer to dry before applying a fresh coat. If a large area needs repainting, spraying is the best way to match the original surface. Sand the spot with extra-fine sandpaper, clean and allow to dry. Before spraying, ventilate the room and wear a spray mask. For optimal results, cut an irregularly shaped hole, slightly larger than the sanded area, from a piece of card board (left). Hold the mask 6 inches from the appliance surface, then move it in a circle while you spray through the hole. Avoid excess paint, which could drip and run. Several light passes are better than one heavy coat. GETTING HELP WHEN YOU NEED IT To replace a broken part, first determine the appliance's model and serial number, stamped on a plate attached to the cabinet (below) GENERAL f ELECTRIC APPLIANCE PARK, LOUISVILLE, KY. MODEL NO . 1. I, 1•11 DDE8200VACADITG 2O196 120/240'.' 3 WIRE SO 42 5600W 24* CLOTHES DRYER 61*06 61 00* 23c7005 PCI)2 If you can't locate the plate, consult the owner's manual. A diagram in the manual will also tell you the name of the part. Some mechanical and electrical components carry their own serial numbers, either stamped on the part or listed in the manual. Armed with this information, you can call the dealer to make sure the part is in stock. If possible, take the defective part with you for comparison. Most dealers don’t permit returns or exchanges, so make sure the replacement is identical-especially since an incorrect part could damage your appliance or, in the case of an electrical component, cause a fire. So-called "universal" parts are standard for most brands of an appliance. Before buying such parts, however, make sure they are approved for your machine. The parts dealer or distributor should be able to advise you. If you need more information, many manufacturers maintain toll-free "hot lines" to answer customers' questions. Look in your owner's manual for the number, or call 1-800-555 1212 to find out if the manufacturer is listed. Complex mechanical parts such as transmissions or motors can sometimes be rebuilt rather than replaced, saving you money. Ask your dealer or distributor whether this is an option. You have several sources of replacement parts from which to choose: Independent appliance dealers. If a store does not carry the parts you need, the dealer may be able to order them for you or tell you where to find them. Major retail chains. Hardware or department stores stock parts for the brands they carry, as well as universal parts. Appliance parts distributors. These out lets usually sell parts to dealers and repairmen, but often welcome do-it-your selfers as customers. If necessary, you may be able to order hard-to-find parts through the mail. Distributors usually carry service and repair manuals for appliances, Manufacturers. Many don’t sell parts directly to the public, but they may direct you to a retail source. When it's time to call in a professional for repairs, choose carefully. Ask friends or neighbors for advice, or consult the retailer who sold you the appliance. The manufacturer or your local Better Business Bureau may also be able to recommend a reputable service technician. Make sure whoever you find is authorized to service your brand of appliance; if not, the repair may not be covered under the warranty. When you phone to arrange a service call, be prepared to supply as much information as possible. Know the model of your appliance, its age and condition. Take careful note of the problem: When did it occur (in which cycle or function), what sounds did the machine make, were there telltale odors, and is this a recurring problem? With these details, a repairman is more likely to bring the proper replacement parts. If your problem involves a flooded dishwasher or washing machine, you can save the repairman time-and yourself money-by bailing out the appliance before he arrives (13). Discuss the job with the technician before he begins. What rates does he charge? How long might it take? Will you be notified if the cost will exceed his estimate? Is the work guaranteed? Offer specific information concerning symptoms, and suggest your diagnosis, if you have one-without trying to tell the repairman his business. Once you've reached an agreement, leave him to his work. And before he goes, inspect the work carefully, and be sure you've received-and yen fled-an invoice itemizing parts and labor. Such a document will come in handy if the problem recurs. You and your warranty. Before attempting any repair, check the appliance's warranty-and take note that some parts may be warranted for a longer period than that of the entire appliance. If the warranty is still in effect, you may void coverage if you do the work yourself and fail. Only an authorized service technician should make the needed repairs. Prev: Next: Home top of page |