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The condition of your home’s grounds and the house exterior makes an immediate, strong impression on a prospective house buyer. The moment a buyer drives up to the house, he or she forms an opinion about your home. This all-important first impression, created by what realtors call the “curb appeal” of your home, can mean the difference between a buyer eager to see the rest of the house and one who won’t even bother to visit. Nothing will create a negative impression more quickly than rot or mildew on an exterior house wall, or an overgrown and unkempt lawn. Before putting the house up for sale, take time to carefully inspect the grounds and exterior. Use the Troubleshooting Guide and checklist diagram to help identify easy-to-overlook damage that a buyer will be on the lookout for; then, refer to the discussion indicated to make the needed repair. Start with the yard. Keep the lawn watered and mowed; in the autumn, rake up leaves. Trim an overgrown lawn edge or hedge ( 22) and prune damaged or unruly branches from shrubs and trees . Pull out the weeds from your gardens ( 22) and walkways ( 24). Check your fencing; replace any damaged fence board ( 31) and reinforce a leaning post or sagging gate. Inspect the asphalt or masonry surfaces of the driveway, walkways, steps and patio. Clean any dirty or stained surface. Fill any cracks or potholes in asphalt, and repair any cracks, chips or crumbled edges on concrete surfaces. In warm weather, keep the driveway and walkways swept clean of debris; in the winter, clear them of snow and ice. Check the condition of gutters and downspouts. If a gutter or downspout is clogged with leaves or debris and drains poorly. clean it. Re-secure a sagging gutter or a loose downspout ( 34). Inspect the roofing on the house. Working on a ladder or using a pair of binoculars, check the condition of asphalt shingles and flashings. Seal open flashing joints and patch holes in flashing ( 35); repair torn or lifted asphalt shingles. Most grounds and exterior repairs can be made with basic gardening tools and workshop tools such as a hammer, a screwdriver, a putty knife and a caulking gun; rent special tools such as a pressure washer or airless sprayer at a tool rental center. Refer to Tools & Techniques for advice on using any tools required and for directions on safely working on ladders or the roof. 18__ Keep walkways and driveway tidy and clean. Clear away weeds and moss: clean off embedded dirt and Stains ( 24). During the growing season, keep the lawn well-watered and mown; during the autumn, keep the lawn raked clean of leaves and debris. Inspect fences; replace damaged boards (3l) and reinforce leaning posts ( 32). Prune dead or diseased branches from small shrubs and trees ( 23). Contact a professional arborist or the local parks department for advice on pruning or removing large branches and trees. Inspect decks and porches; reinforce loose or sagging railings ( 30) and replace damaged floor boards ( 31). Inspect wood surfaces for rot and insect damage ( 29); repair minor cracks and rot damage ( 30). Inspect exterior walls; remove stains from masonry ( 24), wood siding and trim, ,and aluminum siding ( 28); clean dirty walls with a pressure washer ( 29). It desired, paint any cleaned surfaces. Inspect gutters and downspouts. Clean Out dirty gutters and re-secure sagging gutters ( 33); re-secure loose downspouts. TROUBLESHOOTING GUIDE [ SYMPTOM: YARD AND GARDENS Lawn overgrown Lawn edge growing over driveway, walkway, patio or garden edge Garden overgrown with weeds; littered with debris Hedge overgrown Shrub or tree branch dead, damaged or diseased Insect hive or nest FENCES Wood surface dirty or stained Wood dark and spongy or crumbling; paint or finish on surface lifting Wood fencing damaged Wood fence post leaning or wobbling Wood gate sagging Metal surface dirty, stained or rusted Paint or finish peeling or faded DRIVEWAY, WALKWAYS AND PATIO Asphalt or masonry dirty; littered with debris Asphalt or masonry overgrown with weeds or moss Asphalt or masonry stained Crack in asphalt Pothole in asphalt Asphalt patched extensively Shallow surface holes (popouts) in concrete Crack in concrete; edge chipped or crumbling Exterior drain clogged or sluggish EXTERIOR HOUSE WALLS Crack in concrete foundation wall Brick mortar joint damaged or missing Masonry stained Al. siding stained, scratched, rusted Wood siding or trim stained Wood dark and spongy or crumbling; paint finish on surface lifting Wall dirty or dingy Paint or finish peeling or faded DECKS AND PORCHES Wood surface dirty or stained Wood dark and spongy or crumbling; paint or finish on surface lifting Wood railing sagging Metal surface dirty, stained or rusted Deck floor board damaged Paint or finish peeling or faded Crack in concrete step; edge chipped, crumbling GUTTERS AND DOWNSPOUTS Gutter or downspout clogged with leaves, debris Gutter sagging Gutter joint open Gutter torn or punctured Downspout swaying or rattling Metal surface stained or rusted Paint peeling or faded ROOFING: Finishing joint open Finishing torn or punctured Asphalt shingle torn, cracked, perforated Asphalt shingle edge lifted, curled ] PROCEDURE Mow lawn Trim lawn edge ( 22) DO Weed and mulch garden ( 22) D Trim hedge ( 22) E Prune shrub or tree branch ( 23) D Control pest infestation ( 140) Clean wood ( 28) DO Check for rot and insect damage, and repair minor damage ( 29) DO; if damage extensive, consult a professional Replace fence board ( 31) LJO Reinforce fence post ( 32) D Reinforce gate ( 32) DO Clean metal ( 28) DC Paint or finish surface ( 36) EI1 Sweep asphalt or masonry Remove weeds or moss from asphalt or masonry ( 24) DO Remove stains from asphalt or masonry ( 24) DO Fill crack in asphalt ( 27) DO Fill pothole in asphalt ( 27) DO Seal asphalt ( 27) E• Repair concrete popouts ( 92) DO Repair concrete ( 25) DO Clean exterior drain ( 23) DO Evaluate any crack in concrete ( 91); caulk hairline crack ( 91) DO or patch small, open crack ( 92) DO; for crack that indicates structural problem, consult a professional Repoint brick ( 26) D Clean masonry ( 24) DO Clean aluminum siding ( 28) DO Clean wood ( 28) DO Check for rot and insect damage, and repair minor damage ( 29) DO; if damage extensive, consult a professional Clean wall using a pressure washer ( 29) . Paint or finish wall using an airless sprayer ( 37) Clean wood ( 28) DO Check for rot and insect damage, and repair minor damage ( 29) DO; if damage extensive, consult a professional Reinforce rail or handrail ( 30) DO Clean metal ( 28) DO Replace deck floor board ( 31) L1 Paint or finish surface ( 36) L Repair concrete ( 25) DO Clean gutter and downspout ( 33) D Resecure gutter ( 33) L Seal gutter joint ( 34) DO Patch gutter ( 35) D Resecure downspout ( 34) DO Clean metal ( 28) DO Paint surface ( 36) U Seal flashing joint ( 34) DO Patch flashing ( 35) DO Seal asphalt shingle ( 35) DO Resecure asphalt shingle ( 35) DO [ DEGREE OF DIFFICULTY: ESTIMATED TIME: D Easy Moderate • Complex O Less than 1 hour 1 to 3 hours • Over 3 hours (Does not include drying time) ] SPRUCING UP THE YARD Trimming a lawn edge. If a lawn edge is growing untidily over the edge of a driveway, walkway, patio or garden, cut it back to form a neat border. Water the area a day before cutting the sod to moisten the soil. Set up a guideline of stakes and string a few inches from and parallel to the edge to be trimmed. Wear work gloves and sturdy shoes. Starting at one end of the edge to be trimmed, use an edger to make a cut in the sod about 2 to 3 inches deep; continue, making overlapping cuts along the guideline () until the entire edge is cut. If necessary, move the guideline as you go. When the cut is complete, remove the loose sod by hand and dispose of it. Sweep up debris along the cut lawn edge. Trimming a hedge. If a hedge is overgrown, trim it to a neat, uniform shape. Set up a guideline of stakes and string, running the string along the hedge a few inches above the top. Wear work gloves and safety goggles. Starting at one end and following the guideline, use a hedge trimmer to make a straight cut along the hedge top (); then, cut the sides of the hedge, sloping them slightly so the hedge base is slightly wider than the top. If the trimmer catches on a thick branch, prune the branch ( 23), then continue. After the hedge is cut, use the trimmer to round off any square-cut corners. Shake the hedge to dislodge clippings; then, rake them up and dispose of them. Weeding and mulching a garden. If a flower or vegetable garden is littered with debris and overgrown with weeds, weed and mulch it to give it a tidy, well-tended appearance. Water the garden the day before weeding to moisten the soil. Collect any debris lying on the ground, and any torn leaves, broken tips and damaged fruits and flowers from plants, bagging and disposing of them as you go. Hand-pull as many weeds as possible. Wearing work gloves, grasp a wee near the base of its stem; pulling gently, work the stem from side to side to dislodge as much of the root system as possible; for stubborn weeds, use a weeding fork (inset) or a dandelion weeder to dig down and lever up the roots. Bag and dispose of the pulled weeds. Once the ground is clean, buy a commercial mulch such as peat moss, wood chips or pine nuggets at a garden supply center. Using a spade, carefully spread a 1/2-inch layer of mulch over the ground and under any plants (); then, using the back of the spade, lightly tamp down the mulch Water the garden regularly and watch it carefully, hand-pulling weeds whenever they push through the mulch. 23a___ Pruning shrub and tree branches. If a shrub or tree branch is dead, 1 or diseased, remove it to give the plant a natural, healthy appearance. Wear work gloves and safety goggles. To remove a very small branch less than 3/4 inch in diameter, use pruning shears. Fit the shears around the branch at a point 1/4 to 1/2 inch from the nearest healthy branch, angling the cutting blades in the direction of growth of the healthy branch. Then, pressing the blades firmly against the branch, wipe the handles to make a clean cut, taking care not to twist and tear the bark. If you prune a diseased branch, wipe the blades of the shears with rubbing alcohol before making another cut. Bag and dispose of pruned branches. To remove a small branch between 3/4 and 1 inch in diameter, or any overhead branch less than 1 inch in diameter, use lopping shears. Standing well to one side if you are working overhead, position the shears and make the cut ( center) as you would with pruning shears. To remove a branch between 1 and 2 inches in diameter, use a pruning saw; if necessary, work on a ladder ( 137). Hold the saw blade against the branch at a point 1/2 inch from the nearest healthy branch or the trunk, angling the blade away from the branch or trunk. Then, using steady back-and-forth strokes, saw through the branch in a clean, straight line ( right). If you accidentally tear the bark, use a sharp knife to trim off the torn material. CLEANING AN EXTERIOR DRAIN 23b__ Removing debris from a drain. If an exterior drain in a driveway or walkway is clogged and drains poorly, clean it. Wearing rubber gloves, remove leaves and debris from around the drain; then, remove the drain cover and pull any debris from the mouth of the drainpipe. If the cover is rusted or broken, buy an identical replacement. Reposition the cover, ensuring that it’s seated flat. If the drain continues to work poorly, remove the cover and try flushing the drain. Holding the end of a garden hose at the drainpipe opening, turn on the water slowly, gradually increasing the flow (); flush the drain until any debris is washed down through the pipe, then recover the drain. If you cannot flush the drain and water begins to back up, stop. Have a professional drain-cleaning company service the drain; don’t use a chemical drain cleaner to try and unblock it. CLEANING ASPHALT AND MASONRY 24ab__ Removing weeds. Remove unsightly weeds from cracks and joints in an asphalt or masonry driveway, walkway or patio. Slightly moisten the soil in the crack or joint. Wearing work gloves, grasp the weed near the base of its stem; pulling gently, work the stem from side to side () to dislodge as much of the root system as possible; for stubborn weeds, use a weeding fork or a dandelion weeder to dig down and lever up the roots. Bag and dispose of the weeds, then brush dislodged dirt off the asphalt or masonry surface. Repair any cracks in the concrete ( 25) or asphalt ( 27) through which weeds have been growing. Removing moss. Remove unsightly moss and lichen from the surface of a driveway, walkway, patio or wall. Slightly moisten the affected face. Wearing work gloves, use a putty knife to scrape the growth off the surface (); use the knife edge to pry growth out of cracks and crevices in the surface. Bag and dispose of the debris, then brush remaining material and dirt off the surface. Remove any organic s. from the surface (step below). Consider trimming back nearby hedges ( 22) and branches ( 23) to increase air circulation and sun light, inhibiting future moss and lichen growth. To remove a stain from a patio, walkway or driveway, use a stiff-bristled broom soaked with cleaner to vigorously scrub the stain (left): on a wall, use a stiff-bristled scrub brush (inset). Then, rinse the scrubbed surface with fresh water; if you are cleaning with muriatic acid, wait for any fizzing action to stop before rinsing. After removing stains from asphalt, consider sealing the surface ( 27). 24c___ Removing stains. To clean a large, badly- stained brick, stone, concrete or asphalt surface, use a pressure washer ( 29). Remove a small grease or oil stain from exterior masonry as you would from interior concrete ( 88). To remove other small stains, wear rubber gloves and safety goggles to mix as many gallons of cleaner as needed in a plastic bucket. For most light stains, mix a little scouring powder or 1/2 cup of trisodium phosphate (TSP) and 1/2 cup of household detergent per gallon of water. For light efflorescence—white, powdery mineral deposits on concrete or brick—mix 1 cup of TSP per of water; for heavy efflorescence, buy muriatic acid at a building supply center and mix it with water according to the manufacturer’s instructions. Caution: Always pour acid into water; never pour water into acid. REPAIRING CONCRETE 25a___ Patching cracked concrete. If a concrete surface is cracked, patch it. Wearing work gloves, use a cold chisel and a ball-peen hammer to Un- the edges of the crack, widening it slightly; then, use a stiff-bristled scrub brush and fresh water to clean the crack thoroughly. the crack dry. Buy pre-mixed latex-based concrete patching compound that contains a bonding agent at a building supply center. Prepare the patching compound following the manufacturer’s instructions. To apply the patching compound, start at one end of the crack; use a putty knife to spread compound along the opening, pressing it in and smoothing it flush with the surrounding surface. Let the patching compound cure according to the label instructions; if the patch is on a walkway or driveway, keep traffic off it for 24 hours. Safely dispose of leftover patching compound. If necessary, paint the surface. 25b___ Gluing chipped concrete. If a concrete edge or corner has crumbled or broken in small pieces, rebuild the edge; if the edge or corner has broken off in one piece, glue the chip back into place. Using stiff-bristled brush, clean the damaged surfaces. Buy concrete glue at a building supply center and prepare it following the label instructions. Wearing rubber gloves, use an old paintbrush to apply an even coat of glue on the bottom of the chip and the top of the surface. Press the chip into position on the surface, then secure it with duct tape. Let the glue cure for the length of time recommended by the manufacturer, then remove the tape; if the repair is on a step or walkway, keep traffic off the surface for 24 hours. Safely dispose of leftover glue. If necessary, paint the surface. Rebuilding a concrete edge. Using a stiff-bristled brush, clean off the damaged edge. Buy pre-mixed latex-based concrete patching com pound that contains a bonding agent at a building supply center. Pre pare the compound following the manufacturer’s instructions. Wearing work gloves, use a putty knife to spread patching compound along the damaged edge. To square the edge, hold a wooden float against one side of the edge and use a rectangular trowel to spread the patching compound over the surface on the other side of the edge, smoothing it out flush with the float. Let the patching compound cure according to the manufacturer’s instructions; if the edge is on a step or walkway, keep traffic off it for 24 hours. Safely dispose of leftover patching compound. If necessary, paint the surface. REPOINTING BRICK 26ab____ 1. Removing damaged mortar. If you are making a repair high on an exterior wall, use a ladder. Wearing work gloves and safety goggles, use a bull-point chisel and a ball-peen hammer to chip loose and crumbling mortar from the joint between bricks (), cutting to a depth of 1/2 to 3/4 inch. Use a stiff-bristled brush to clean dust and debris out of the cut-back joint, then flush the joint with fresh water. 2. Filling the joint. Purchase pre-mixed mortar at a building supply center. Wearing work gloves, follow the manufacturer’s instructions to mix a batch of mortar on a mason’s hawk; mix the mortar to a consistency at which it holds its shape. Holding the hawk just I the joint to catch any spilled mortar, use a pointing trowel to work into the joint (), packing it as tightly as possible. Scrape off mortar from surrounding bricks with the edge of the trowel. 26cd___ 3. Striking the joint. Wait 30 minutes or until the mortar has set enough to hold a thumbprint. Then, use a jointer with a shape that matches the shape and depth of the original mortar joint to strike the joint, or press it to form a watertight seal; for the neatest appearance. strike vertical joints before striking horizontal joints. To strike a joint, wet the jointer with water; then, using firm, steady pressure, draw the jointer smoothly along the wet mortar in the joint. 4. Smoothing the joint. Using the edge of a pointing trowel, scrape away mortar extruded from the joint by the pressure of the jointer (); then, use a wet, rough cloth or stiff-bristled brush to scrub mortar residue off surrounding brick surfaces. Safely dispose of leftover mortar. Following the manufacturer’s instructions, allow the new mortar to cure. Keeping the curing mortar damp for at least 3 days; mist the surface occasionally with water. REPAIRING ASPHALT 27ab____ Filling a crack. ---- Use a stiff-bristled brush to the crack, then flush it with water and dry. Wearing work gloves, load a caulking gun with asphalt crack sealant. Starting at one end of the crack and holding the gun at a 45-degree angle to the surface, squeeze the trigger to eject a continuous bead of caulk along the crack. Let the dry. If the caulk does not completely fill the crack, follow the same procedure to apply a 2nd layer of caulk and let it dry. If desired, seal the surface if it has been patched extensively. Filling a pothole. Use a stiff-bristled brush to clean out the pothole. Then, if the hole is more than 1 inch deep, fill it with gravel so it’s only 1 inch deep. Buy asphalt patching compound (blacktop patch) at a building supply center and follow the label instructions to prepare it. Wearing work gloves, use a pointing trowel to pack the patching compound into the hole, filling it to a level just below the surrounding surface; then, use a 4-by-4 to tamp down the patching compound ( right). Wait 30 minutes. Add more patching compound, overfilling the hole slightly; then, tamp it flush with the surrounding surface. Let the patching compound cure, keeping traffic off it for 12 hours. Safely dispose of leftover patching compound. If desired, seal the surface if it has been patched extensively. SEALING ASPHALT 27b___ Applying an asphalt sealer. After cleaning asphalt or if an asphalt driveway or walkway surface has been patched extensively, seal the surface to provide a uniform, new-looking finish. Work on a dry day in a temperature between 50 and 85 degrees Fahrenheit. Set up a temporary barrier around the surface to keep traffic away. Purchase a commercial asphalt sealer at a building supply center; follow the label directions to prepare it and the asphalt surface—in some cases the surface must be dampened. Wear work gloves, sturdy shoes and safety goggles. Starting at one end of the surface, pour sealer from the container directly onto a section of asphalt; avoid pouring or splashing the sealer onto adjacent vegetation. Then, use a stiff-bristled broom to spread the sealer evenly over the surface. Continue, section by section, and without overlapping the sections, until the entire surface is covered. Let the sealer dry, keeping it free of traffic for at least 12 hours. CLEANING METAL 28ab___ Cleaning a fence or railing. For stains on wrought iron or galvanized steel, wear rubber gloves and safety goggles to mix as many gallons of cleaner as needed in a plastic bucket. For common dirt, mix 1/3 cup of household detergent per gallon of water and scrub with a stiff-bristled brush, then dry the surface. For stubborn dirt and stains, use the same procedure, mixing 1 cup of trisodium phosphate (TSP) per gallon of water. Safely dispose of leftover cleaner. For rust, wear work gloves and scrub the surface with a wire brush; then, smooth the surface clean with medium steel wool, and wipe off any dust. Finish the surface. Cleaning aluminum siding. For stains, wear rubber gloves and safety goggles to mix as many gallons of cleaner as needed in a plastic buck et. For common dirt and stains, mix 1/3 cup of household detergent per gallon of water and scrub gently with a soft cloth; to avoid streaks, work from the bottom up and rinse immediately. For mildew, use the same procedure, mixing 1/3 cup of household detergent and 1/3 cup of trisodium phosphate (TSP) per 1 quart of household bleach and 3 quarts of water. Safely dispose of leftover cleaner ( 141). For surface scratches and corrosion, wear work gloves to smooth the surface with fine steel wool (); then, finish the surface ( 36). CLEANING WOOD 28c___ Removing dirt and stains. To clean a large surface, use a pressure washer ( 29). To remove small stains, wear rubber gloves and safety goggles to mix as many gallons of cleaner as needed in a plastic bucket. For common dirt, mix a little household detergent per gallon of water and scrub vigorously with a stiff-bristled scrub brush ( left); then, rinse the area with fresh water. For stubborn dirt or stains, use the same procedure, mixing 1/2 cup of trisodium phosphate (TSP) per gallon of water. For mildew and rust stains, mix 2 cups of household bleach per gallon of water; wait 30 minutes after scrubbing the area before rinsing it. For exuded pitch, use a paint scraper or putty knife to scrape the pitch off the surface; to clean any stain remaining, buy a commercial wood-brightening product, then mix and apply it according to the label instructions. Safely dispose of leftover cleaner ( 141). For rusted fastener heads, wear work gloves and smooth the heads with fine steel wool; then, select a metal primer ( 136) and use a paintbrush to dab primer on each head ( right). ++++++++++++++ USNG A PRESSURE WASHER 29a___ Using a pressure washer. To wash a large exterior surface such as a wall, a driveway, a deck or a patio, rent a gas-powered pressure washer rated 1000 to 1500 pounds per square inch (psi) at a tool rental center ( 128); and follow the manufacturer’s instructions to set it up. Protect nearby surfaces not to be washed; to wash a wall, as shown, tape plastic sheeting over lighting fixtures, outlets and vents, close windows and doors, and cover nearby vegetation. Wearing rubber boots, rubber gloves and safety goggles, wash successive 5-foot-wide sections of the surface; on a wall, work from top to bottom and don’t point the spray wand at windows or doors. Starting at one end of the surface, grip the wand firmly with both hands and brace it against you to steady it; then, keeping the wand almost perpendicular to the surface with the nozzle 12 to 18 inches from it, squeeze the trigger to start. To stop the water flow, release the trigger. Work to the other end of the surface (left), then stop the water flow and turn off the pressure washer. After washing a driveway, deck or patio, keep traffic off it until it’s dry. If necessary, clean any remaining stains off the asphalt, masonry ( 24), metal or wood ( 28). REPAIRING MINOR WOOD ROT AND INSECT DAMAGE 29cd__ 1. Identifying rot and insect damage. To check for rot and in sect damage, closely inspect joints, surfaces where water can collect, and surfaces on or near the ground. Chipped, peeling or lifting finish, spongy wood fibers and gray or dark discoloration are telltale signs of rot or insect damage. If the wood is pitted or powdery, or riddled with tiny holes or tunnels left) and there are insect remains, suspect insect damage and consult a pest control professional. If the damage to the wood is minor, patch it (step 2). Wood that is rotted may be split or cracked ( center), but it may also exhibit no visible signs of a problem. To test for rot, poke the wood using an awl, pressing it in as deeply as possible ( right). If the wood is soft and gives way, crumbling instead of splintering, it’s weakened by rot. If the damage to the wood is minor, patch it (step 2); otherwise, call a building professional. 30a___ 2. Patching the damaged wood. Wearing work gloves and safety goggles, remove all soft, damaged wood down to firm, healthy wood, digging out the damage with a paint scraper ( left). Buy epoxy patching compound at a building supply center and prepare it following the label instructions. Use a putty knife to pack patching compound into the damage, overfilling it slightly. Then, scrape off the excess patching compound, leveling it with the surrounding surface; if necessary, position a wood block along the edge of the surface as a guide ( right). To replicate any texture in the surface, rake the wet compound with the tip of the putty knife blade. Allow the patching compound to cure. Using medium-grit sandpaper, lightly sand the surface, then wipe it clean. Finish the surface. REINFORCING A WOOD RAILING 30b___ Bracing the length of a rail. --- If the rail along the bottom of a railing is sagging, reinforce it by installing 2-by-4 or 2-by-6 braces under it. To mark a brace for size, position it on the floor against the rail; prop up the rail at its correct height or have a helper support it. Saw the brace to length, angling the sides for drainage, then paint or finish the brace to match the railing. Fit the brace under the rail. Use an electric drill ( 129) to bore a pilot hole through each side of the brace into the floor; then, drive nails into the holes (). Also nail the rail to the brace. Bracing the end of a handrail or rail. --- If the end of a handrail or rail on a railing is loose or sagging, reinforce it by installing a wood brace or hardware. For a wood brace, use lumber of the same dimensions as the handrail or rail, and saw it to a length equal to the width of the handrail or rail; then, paint or finish the brace to match the railing. Prop up the handrail or rail at its correct height or have a helper support it. Position the brace under the handrail or rail and against the column or post. Use an electric drill ( 129) to bore pilot holes through the brace into the column or post, then drive screws into the holes ( left); for best results, use two screws, offsetting them slightly. For a hardware brace, use galvanized steel L-braces. Prop up the handrail or rail at its, correct height or have a helper support it. Position a brace under the handrail or rail and against the column or post. Use an electric drill to bore through the holes in the brace into the handrail or rail and the column or post, then drive screws into the holes; for best results, use two braces. REPLACING A DECK FLOOR BOARD 31a___ Removing and installing a deck board. If a deck floor board is _ replace it. To remove a board, first remove any fasteners fig it. To remove nails, use the notched end of a crowbar to pry up, pull out the nails; to remove screws, use a reversible electric drill i with a screwdriver bit. After removing all the fasteners, lift the board; if you cannot remove a fastener, loosen it by hammering on the bottom of the damaged board near the joist, then use the crowbar to pry up the board from above. Purchase replacement wood at a building supply center and mark it using the original flooring as a as a template; then, saw it to size and paint or finish it to match the floor. To install a board, lay it or have a helper hold it in the space from which you removed the old board, ensuring it’s properly spaced from adjacent boards and its ends are properly aligned with the deck edges. Using an electric drill fitted with a twist bit, drill pilot holes through the board into each joist under it, numbering and spacing the holes to follow the pattern used on the rest of the flooring. Use a screw driver to drive screws into the pilot holes and secure the board to the joists. REPLACING A FENCE BOARD 31b___ Removing and installing a fence board. --- If a fence board is damaged, replace it. To remove a board, hammer on the back of it near the rails to lift the nails holding it; then, pull out the nails and lift off board. Purchase replacement wood at a building supply center and mark it using the original fencing as a template; then, saw it to size and paint or finish it to match the fence. To install a board, prop it or have a helper hold it in position against the rails, then partially drive a galvanized nail through it into the top rail. Steadying the rail with a sledgehammer, finish driving the nail; then, drive in another nail. Nail the board to the bottom rail the same way. REINFORCING A WOOD FENCE POST 32a___ Installing sister posts or shims. If a wood fence post is loose and leaning, reinforce it. To reinforce a post set in soil, install a sister post on each side of it. Purchase pressure-treated 2-by-4s at a building supply center and saw them to a length at least half the height of the post with a 45-degree bevel at one end; finish them to match the fence ( 36). Wearing work gloves, position a sister post bevel-out against the post and drive it halfway into the ground with a sledgehammer (left). Saw off the top of the sister post at a 45-degree angle 18 to 24 inches from the ground. Repeat this procedure to install the other sister post. Then, drive at least two 4-inch galvanized spiral nails through each sister post into the fence post (inset). To reinforce a post set in concrete, force wood shims into any spaces between the post and the concrete footing. To make the shims, saw wood pieces to a length at least one-third the height of the post; finish them to match the fence ( 36). Drive in each shim as far as possible with a rubber mallet, then use a chisel to cut it off at ground level. Select a caulk ( 133) and use a caulking gun to caulk around the base of the post. REINFORCING A WOOD GATE 32b___ Installing a turnbuckle. Inspect the gate and gate posts. If a hinge is loose, tighten its fasteners; if it’s damaged, replace it. If a gate post is leaning, reinforce it (step above). Other wise, reinforce a sagging gate by installing a turnbuckle assembly that extends from the end of the top rail near the hinge to the end of the bottom rail diagonally opposite. Buy a turnbuckle assembly at a hardware store or a building supply center: 1/8-inch woven cable with a turnbuckle, two U-bolt clips and two eye screws. Using an electric drill fitted with a twist bit, bore pilot holes for the eye screws in the rails, and install the eye screws in the holes. Using diagonal-cutting pliers, cut two lengths of cable, each 5 to 6 inches longer than the distance between the eye screws on the rails. Loop a cable through an eye screw and pull the two ends 5 to 6 inches through a U-bolt clip; then, loop the ends through one over of the turnbuckle and double them back through the clip. Tighten the clip with a wrench (inset). Repeat the procedure to install the other length of cable. To tighten the cable. adjust the turnbuckle; using an old screwdriver for leverage, turn the turnbuckle until the cable is taut (left). CLEANING GUTTERS/DOWNSPOUTS Flushing a gutter. --- Wearing rubber gloves and working on a ladder, handpick and bag leaves as well as other debris on roof edge and in the gutter; work from end to end of the gutter. Then, flush the gutter. Starting at one end, use a garden hose to wash away dirt and grit, brushing it toward a downspout with a whisk broom; use a putty knife to scrape off any adhered material. Inspect the gutter. If water drains poorly, clean the downspout. If water pools in the gutter because of a sag, re-secure the gutter. If the gutter leaks, seal any open joint or patch any hole. RESECURING A GUTTER 33b___ Flushing a downspout. --- If water collects in a gutter and drains poorly through the downspout, clean the downspout. Wear rubber gloves and work on a ladder. If there is a leaf strainer covering the downspout opening, remove it. Reach down the drop outlet and pull out as much debris as possible, bagging it for disposal. Then, aiming the end of a garden hose into the drop outlet, turn on the water slowly, gradually increasing the flow to flush debris through the elbow and out the bottom of the downspout. Reinstall any leaf strainer you removed; if there is no leaf strainer, buy one for your model of gutter and install it to prevent a future blockage. Installing a strap hanger. If a gutter section sags, check for a faulty or missing gutter hanger; work on a ladder. If a hanger is damaged, remove it: using a pry bar and pliers to pry out and pull off a spike hanger; using tin snips to cut off a strap hanger or bracket hanger. To replace a hanger or add on an extra hanger, buy a strap hanger to fit your model of gutter at a building supply center. Follow the manufacturer’s instructions to install the new hanger on the gutter. For the vinyl gutter shown, snap the hanger clips over the gutter edges. Position the hanger strap on or under the edge of a shingle, raising or lowering the strap until the gutter sag is corrected. Then, drive roofing nails through the strap to secure it (left). Load a caulking gun with a cartridge of roofing cement and apply a dab of cement on each nail head. If necessary, use the same procedure to install other hangers, installing at least one strap hanger every 24 or 32 inches along the gutter until the sag is corrected. RESECURING A DOWNSPOUT 34a___ Installing a downspout bracket. If a downspout is loose, and it sways or rattles, install additional brackets to secure it. Buy a downspout bracket to fit your model of downspout, and fasteners to secure the bracket to your type of wall surface at a building supply center. If necessary, prepare to work on a ladder ( 137). Prop the downspout in its correct position or have a helper steady it. Follow the manufacturer’s instructions to install a bracket. On the metal downspout shown, position the bracket over the downspout and mark position points for fasteners. Using an electric drill fitted with an appropriate bit ( 129), bore pilot holes for the fasteners at the marked points ( left). Holding the bracket in position over the downspout, drive screws through the bracket holes and into the pilot holes ( right) to secure the bracket. REPAIRING MINOR DAMAGE TO ROOFING MATERIALS 34bc___ Sealing a gutter joint. --- If a gutter joint has separated and leaks, reseal it when the gutter is dry. Prepare to work on a ladder or on the roof. Wearing work gloves, use a clean, damp rag to wipe dirt and grit oft the inside of the gutter along the joint. Load a caulking gun with silicone-based caulk and apply a continuous bead of it along the joint (); use a small putty knife to smooth the caulk into the joint. If the joint leaks again, patch the gutter. Sealing a flashing joint. --- If a joint between overlapping pieces of flashing or between a flashing and another roofing material is open, reseal it when the roof is dry. Prepare to work on a ladder or on the roof. To reseal flashing to masonry, wear work gloves and safety goggles and carefully pull the flashing away from the surface or out of the mortar to which it was attached. Use a putty knife to scrape away old sealant, then use a wire brush to clean away grit and debris. Using a caulking gun loaded with roofing cement, fill the joint. Then, push the flashing firmly back against the surface or into the mortar to bond it to the roofing cement. To reseal a joint between pieces of flashing, wear work gloves and use a putty knife to scrape I away old sealant from the joint; then, use a wire brush to clean away grit and debris. Using a caulking gun loaded with silicone-based caulk, apply a continuous bead of it along the joint. Then, use the putty knife to smooth the caulk, forcing it into the joint. 35ab___ Patching a hole in a gutter or flashing. --- Buy fiberglass tape and epoxy at a building supply center. Prepare to work on a ladder. Wearing work gloves and safety goggles clean off the damaged surface with a wire brush and wipe it with a clean rag dampened with paint thinner. Use medium-grit sandpaper – sand spots and smooth the surface, then wipe it with a clean, dry rag. Using scissors, cut a piece of fiberglass tape: for a flashing, 3 inches wider and longer than the damage: for a gutter, 1 inch. Mix the epoxy following the manufacturer’s instructions, then use a putty knife to spread it over the damage, covering an area the size of the patch. Center the patch over the damage and press it firmly into place, embedding it in the epoxy. Then, use the putty knife to apply epoxy on the patch, saturating it completely. Let the epoxy cure. If desired, paint the surface. 35cd___ Sealing a tear in an asphalt shingle. --- Prepare to work on a ladder or on the roof. Lift the torn or cracked shingle tab high enough to expose the damage on the bottom of it; if the tab is sealed down, gently work a putty knife under it and along its edges to loosen it. Wearing work gloves, use the putty knife to apply roofing cement on the bottom of the tab over the damage and 2 inches from the edges at each corner. Press the tab down firmly to seal it. Then, apply roofing cement on the top of the tab over the damage ( right). Scrape off excess roofing cement and “h the edges. Re-securing a lifted asphalt shingle edge.---Prepare to work on a ladder ( 137) or on the roof ( 138). To seal a lifted or curled edge, raise the lifted or curled shingle tab high enough to reach under it. It the tab is partly sealed down, gently work a putty knife under it and along its edges to loosen it. Wearing work gloves, hold up the tab and use the putty knife to apply roofing cement on the bottom of it about 2 inches from the edges at each corner (). Press the tab down firmly to seal it. Lay a brick on top of the tab to help the bonding of the roofing cement; remove the brick when the cement is cured. FINISHING AN EXTERIOR SURFACE 36ab___ Preparing to paint or finish. --- To paint or finish a large exterior surface, use an airless sprayer. Before painting or finishing a small surface, prepare it; if necessary, clean the masonry, metal or wood. On a concrete surface, repair any cracks, chips or crumbled edges; on wood, repair any rot or insect damage. Select an exterior paint or finish; for bare masonry, metal or wood or a patched surface, also a primer recommended by the paint or finish manufacturer ( 135). Cover nearby surfaces and vegetation with drop cloths or plastic sheeting. Use a paintbrush to apply any primer necessary (); let the primer dry. Then, paint or finish the surface: using a paint mitt for a decorative surface (step right); a paint brush for trim (step below); and a roller for a flat surface. Using a paint mitt on a decorative surface. --- Use a paint mitt for decorative metal or wood surfaces, and in tight spots. To apply paint or finish with a paint mitt, pour some paint or finish into a roller tray, then put on the mitt; if desired, put on a rubber glove first for extra protection. Dip the paint mitt into the paint or finish, dampening but not soaking the palm. For a narrow surface, wrap the paint mitt around it () and rub up and down. For a wide surface, press the paint mitt flat against it and rub back and forth. For a crevice, use the tip of the paint mitt to work in the paint or finish. Reload the paint mitt and continue the same way until the surface is covered, then let it dry. If necessary, apply a second coat, first sanding the surface lightly with fine-grit sandpaper and wiping it clean. Safely dispose of leftover paint or finish. 36c___ Using a paintbrush on trim.--- Use a paint brush for exterior trim and in any corners or recesses of a flat surface that a roller cannot reach. To apply paint or finish with a paintbrush, pour some paint or finish into a container. Dip the paintbrush bristles into the paint or finish, coating one-third of their length for precise work half their length otherwise. Start at one end of the surface and work along it; on wood, work in the direction of the grain. Brush paint or finis onto the surface using a smooth back-and-forth stroke (left); then, reverse the direction of the stroke to brush back lightly over the paint or finish and smooth it. If necessary, use a paint shield (inset) to protect any adjacent surface while you work, regularly wiping dripped paint or finish off the edge of the shield with a cloth to prevent smears. Reload the paintbrush and continue, section by section, until the surface is covered. Let the paint or finish dry. If necessary, apply a second coat, first sanding the surface lightly with fine-grit sandpaper and wiping it clean. Safely dispose of leftover paint or finish ( 141). 37a___ Using a roller on a flat surface.--- Use a roller to paint or finish a flat horizontal or vertical exterior surface—for masonry, use a long-nap roller cover; for wood, a medium-nap one. If you are working overhead, wear a hat and safety goggles. If necessary, first use a paintbrush ( 36) to paint or finish any corners or recesses of the surface that a roller cannot reach. To apply paint or finish with a roller, pour some paint or finish into a roller tray. Dip the roller into the paint or finish, rolling it to coat the cover completely and evenly. Start at a corner; on a vertical surface, start at a top corner. Working slowly to avoid splattering, roll paint or finish out onto a 3-foot section of the surface; then, reverse the pattern to roll back over the paint or finish and smooth it. Reload the roller and continue (left), section by section, until the surface is covered. Let the paint or finish dry. If necessary, apply a second coat, first sanding the surface lightly with fine-grit sandpaper and wiping it clean. Safely dispose of leftover paint or finish. USING AN AIRLESS SPRAYER Using an airless sprayer. --- To paint or finish a large surface such as an exterior wall, rent an airless sprayer at a tool rental center ( 128); follow the manufacturer’s instructions to set it up. Work on a calm, dry and cloudy day. Select an exterior paint or finish; for bare masonry or wood or a patched surface, also a primer re commended by the paint or finish manufacturer ( 135). Then, fill the airless sprayer. Protect nearby surfaces; on a wall, tape plastic sheeting over lighting fixtures, outlets and vents, close windows and doors, and cover nearby vegetation. Wearing work gloves, use a paintbrush to apply primer to any patched area and let it dry. Wearing safety goggles and a respirator, use the airless sprayer to paint or finish successive 3-foot-wide sections of the surface; on a wall, work from top to bottom. Starling at one end of the surface, hold the spray nozzle at a 60-degree angle to the surface and 10 inches from it; then, squeeze the trigger to start, moving the nozzle in a steady back-and-forth motion. To stop the spray, release the trigger. Work to the other end of the surface, then stop the spray and turn oft the airless sprayer; if you are working on a wall, use a cardboard shield to protect a window or door as you spray around it (left). After painting or finishing a deck, keep traffic off it until it dries. If necessary, apply a second coat. Safely dispose of leftover paint or finish. |
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Sunday, March 23, 2014 22:28 PST