Residential water filters are primarily designed to back up your local water treatment facility. They’re good for improving water’s aesthetics -- for reducing unpleasant odors and tastes, discoloration and other annoying qualities. You can also use them to reduce potential health risks, like lead, that your water utility can’t always control. However, if you have your own well, don’t depend solely on these devices. Follow the water-testing procedures established by your state or province.
Although some filter systems go a long way toward purifying water, don’t rely solely on them to solve serious water problems. A water engineer from your local utility can almost always tell you what’s in your water and what’s causing a problem. If you have health concerns, follow up with a call to your local department of public health.
When you know which contaminants are causing trouble, pick a filtration device that solves that particular problem. A good rule to remember is that water softeners excel at taking care of your plumbing system and fixtures. Filtration systems excel at taking care of your needs for taste and healthy water.
Labels on the packaging advertise what each filter does. Usually they list more contaminants than you need removed. Look for a National Sanitation Foundation (NSF) or other listing mark that indicates the unit has been tested to meet a certain NSF standard.
Water Problems and Their Remedies
White deposits build up in faucets, showerheads and electric coffee pots. Soaps and detergents don’t lather well.
Hydrogen sulfide.
Install ion-exchange water softener on hot-water pipes or whole system. Clean affected fixtures and flush out water heater.
Rust forms around drains in sinks, bathtubs and laundry tubs. Rust-colored slime appears in toilet tank.
Acidic water (low pH).
Install ion-exchange water softener. Use rust- removing softener salt. If problem persists, install an oxidizing filter or a chlorination feeder and an activated carbon filter.
Water has rotten-egg smell. Washed silverware tarnishes. Water looks black.
Algae or other organic matter suspended in water.
Install oxidizing filter. If problem persists, install chlorination feeder system, particle filter and activated carbon filter. Replace badly corroded pipes.
Rust or green stains form around drains. Metal pipes become corroded.
Suspended particles of silt, mud, sand and organic matter.
Install a neutralizing particle filter. If problem persists, install continuous chemical feeder with alkaline solution. Check pipes for corrosion.
Water looks cloudy or dirty.
Magnesium and calcium compounds making water hard.
Install a particle filter. For a serious problem, install continuous chemical feeder with chlorine solution and add an activated carbon filter.
Water has unpleasant taste and slight yellow or brownish color.
Iron compounds or bacterial ion.
Illnesses in family, such as diarrhea, dysentery or hepatitis.
Disease-producing bacteria or viruses in water.
Test for coliform bacteria first, which indicates potential contamination from human or animal waste. A water-quality expert can help identify contaminant and recommend treatment.
Types of Water Filters
Faucet filters are inexpensive and easy to use and install. They contain filter elements similar to those in more expensive systems. Usually they’re low volume, require frequent cartridge changes and are bulky, although some systems are made with the filter built into the faucet.
Under-sink filters have lower long-term cost per gallon and more filter types available. They can serve several points of use, including ice makers. Below-sink installation can be somewhat difficult and requires extra hole in sink for mounting special filter faucet.
(continue ...)Recommended Reading
The Home Water Supply: How to Find, Filter, Store, and Conserve It
Book Description:
Knowledgeable discussion of home water systems, potential water problems, and practical, money-saving solutions.
Issues covered:
snifter valve, sixty psi, twenty psi, individual water system, hydropneumatic tank, dense igneous rock, minimum operating pressure, total static head, supplemental supply, chemical feeder, pressure tank, spring box, intake line, frost level, bleeder valve, brine tank, gravity tank, flaring tool, suction line, usable water, foot valve, chlorine residual, laundry bleach, submersible pump
From the Back Cover:
If you live in the country or suburbs, you've had, are having, or will
have water problems.
What's yours? Not enough water? Too much? Tastes terrible? The pump quits? The water's contaminated?
No matter what it's , author Stu Campbell addresses it in this guide, and offers down-to-earth solutions in language understandable to all of us who aren't plumbers.
Campbell had coped with water problems in both the East and the West, from the many-state shortages of the West to a cantankerous pump in Vermont. And he's probed the minds of experts -- dowsers, well diggers, plumbers, electricians, and those who know about the flow of water deep underground.
In a friendly, knowledgeable manner, Campbell discusses your difficulties.
He provides concrete and money-saving answers to questions that range
from locating water to digging a pond to hooking up the plumbing in
your home. You'll know when to try something yourself, when to call
a plumber or other expert. You'll learn
-- How to find water.
-- How to move it.
-- How to purify it.
-- And how to store and distribute it in your home.
Bob Vogel's illustrations take much of the mystery out of things as the underground flow of water and how pumps and other water-linked equipment operate.
About the Author:
Stu Campbell is an accomplished gardener, writer and skier who lives
in Stowe, Vermont. He has written Storey's The Home Water Supply,
The Mulch Book, Mulch It! and Improving Your Soil as well. Stu is
also a compulsive composter--collecting piles of particularly attractive
leaves from the side of the road! Stu Campbell is the author of Let
it Rot! (a guide to home composting) and The Home Water Supply. He
lives in Stowe, Vermont.
Reviews:
Lacks Basic Data: This book doesn't contain the data needed for developing even a simple design for a home water system. E.g., there is no data to calculate friction loss from water moving through pipes. The book notes that friction loss is easy to calculate using a table. The book includes a table that lists friction loss for valves and fittings in equivalent length of pipe. But, I can't find a table on friction loss per length of pipe. A third of the book and most of the bibliography is devoted to the author's opinions on water politics, he is no Marc Reisner.
A great source for home water system design and storage: This book
covers nearly every situation one may encounter in water procurement,
perhaps the only subject not covered is hauling water to a completely
dry site.
The focus of this guide is necessarily on shallow wells, as deep wells
require professional drilling, never the less the author covers well
pumps, casing, storage devices and filtration systems with enough technical
detail to meet most needs. Deep wells and methods are covered, just
not in detail.
If you need to know how to identify and correct contamination you'll find it here. Need to compute water needs? Pump and storage specifications? Those are also here. In fact, you'll be pleased with the technical details and comparisons in an easy to read style.
I must have missed the new age stuff or at least forgot it as I read the whole book.
If you want to find water in a rural area, and develop it yourself, this is the book. I would not recommend "Cottage Water Systems" if you want detail on well systems.
A generalist approach to water: A new age approach to the subject of water. Campbell's need to share his philosophy kept me from wanting to read the entire book. What it has to do with water is anybody's guess. But if you're into new age, and don't mind reading spiritualistic trash, this might be your book. Technically correct, the book attempts to be everybody's introduction to anything you ever wanted to know about water. That broad stroke is it's best and at the same time, worst feature.
Cottage Water Systems: An Out-of-the-City Guide to Pumps, Plumbing, Water Purification, and Privies
Review
Carlos Amantea RALPH: The Review of Arts, Literature, Philosophy, :
This is a user-friendly manual, easy to read, carefully broken into
thirteen sections...what research!
From the Publisher
The subtitle for this attractive paperback is "An Out-of- the-City
Guide to Pumps, Plumbing, Water Purification, and Privies," and it deftly fulfils its promise. Mr. Burns uses humor interspersed with
excellent illustrations to convey technical information in layman's
terms. He provides a comprehensive overview of all possibilities...
the pros and cons of each alternative are thoroughly examined. (Gordon
Bock and Lynn elliot, May/June, 1996, Old-House Journal)
From the Publisher
The do-it-yourselfer's dream for household water systems. Cottage Water
Systems is a well-written, well-illustrated guide to providing your "cottage" (or
rural home) with water-in and water-out. It clearly explains water
supplies, water quality, water in winter (very important), and wastewater.
Includes troubleshooting guides for common problems. (Larry Dieterich,
Whole Earth Review #85, Spring 1995, Special Water Edition)
Book Description
If you have a pump, a well, a septic system, or an outhouse ...
If you winterize your water system or use it year round ...
Or if you simply care about the quality of the water your drink,
Cottage Water Systems will save you time, money, and headaches
Cottage Water Systems is written specifically with cottages -- and cottage problems -- in mind. It explains in a clear, easy-to-understand style how each component of the water system works, with dozens of tips on installation and repair, as well as troubleshooting guides to help you diagnose what's wrong with your system. Each section is accompanied by explanatory diagrams and illustrations.
Cottage Water Systems includes:
how to choose the pump that's right for your property
a guide to water quality and types of water purifiers
foolproof methods for priming your pump
the ins and outs of composting toilets and other alternatives
how to extend the life of your septic system
step-by-step instructions for closing a seasonal water system in the
fall and opening it in the spring
how to build a first-class outhouse
ways to get water in winter
how to keep the cottage's environmental impact low
North American sources for water-system components
plus wells, gray water systems, and more.
From The WomanSource Catalog and Review: Tools for Connecting the
Community for Women; review by Ilene Rosoff
Written as a comprehensive guide for designing and building water systems
for off-the-beaten-path dwellings, Cottage Water Systems is a how-to
manual for harnessing a variety of water sources and their necessary
peripherals (i.e., pumps, toilets, filtration systems). Chapters cover
finding water, putting together a pump system, plumbing, water testing and purification, outhouses, winterizing and the plethora of details
any water do-it-your-selfer needs to concern themselves with. This
book is worth reading just as an education on home water technology.
And it goes beyond putting in a water system for your weekend cabin;
the sections on alternative toilets and on water purification systems
are useful to any home dweller. As the proud owner of a septic tank,
I found the section on septic systems highly informative, particularly
in terms of its care and feeding (had I read it sooner I could have
probably avoided the $150 I just shelled out to have mine siphoned).
About the Author
Max Burns is a regular contributor to Cottage Life magazine, and how won several National Magazine Awards for his work. He specializes in how-to journalism, and the subjects he writes about are as varied as his interests -- everything from docks to butter tarts. He is currently building a passive solar home within shouting distance of his cottage in northern-Ontario. Cottage Water Systems is his second book.
Chapter 1: Overview
The cottage, the world, and this guide
The practice of trooping off to the cottage doesn't go back generations
in my family, as it does in some cottage dynasties I know. My folks
started making the trek about the time Dad bought his '49 Ford. Initially,
it was to Treasure Island on the shores of Lake Ontario near Kingston.
By the time Dad bought a '56 Ford, we'd moved westward and were now
cottaging on the Bruce Peninsula, Lake Huron side. About two years
after he traded the '56 in on a '58 Ford, we'd moved to Montreal, spending
summers by Lake St. Louis or down in the Eastern Townships. By '65,
we were back in Ontario but, despite his having bought another new
Ford, Dad's interest in cottaging waned. Looking back now, I think
he was more of a Ford man than a cottager. I was hooked, however, and I now live full-time in cottage country. You couldn't drag me away,
even with a new Ford.
Historically, this thing we call a cottage, cabin, camp, or chalet has been a vacation home, at one time nothing more than a rustic building to keep most (or at least some) of the rain and bugs away whenever we weren't frolicking outside. For many, this minimalist vision of the cottage remains. Yet for others, the cottage has slowly edged towards becoming a second home, complete with most of the conveniences of life back in the city. What binds these apparent opposites together is the object -- outdoor fun. The cottage is permission to break out of one's role in life, if just for the weekend. It is a place where good relations with neighbors and families aren't only still possible, but also encouraged. It is also the closest connection many of us have to Mother Nature.
THE ADVANTAGES OF DOING IT YOURSELF
The most obvious connection to nature is via the cottage water system.
This system is whatever means we use to obtain water and whatever
means we use to expel it (including the water that has been run through
the human digestive system) after use. It includes all manner of
conventional cottage connections such as a water pump to an intake
line, and a toilet to a septic tank -- as well as more traditional
alternatives such as a rain barrel and an outhouse.
The cottage water system is a private system; we are the owner/operators, totally responsible for all its strengths and failings. It can be a serious pain when it ceases to function -- because as the owner/operators, it's our job to fix it.
Granted, there's genuine pleasure to be derived from do-it-yourself projects, particularly at the cottage where part of the fun is in the fixing. Repairs, construction work, landscaping -- nothing seems beyond the cottage handyperson equipped with a $10 tool box (tools included).
The other neat thing about doing it yourself is the control it affords. You're not waiting for a tradesperson who might be out wind-surfing because the wind's up, instead of fixing your broken pump or pipe. (Can't understand this lackadaisical lifestyle cottage country seems to foster.) By doing it yourself, you get the work done to your schedule -- running water, no waiting. And, of course, the money you save ends up in your new-boat fund instead of the plumber's.
Even if we don't do the work ourselves, it sure saves money to know why it's being done a certain way. (Or maybe why it shouldn't be done a certain way.) Because when the trades-person does find time to visit, nine times out of 10 we're standing over the poor guy, paying out umpteen dollars an hour for the privilege of interrupting to ask dumb questions.
So Cottage Water Systems isn't just a how-to book, it's also a "why?" book. It has always been my belief that given the reasons why, folks are more likely to do the job right than if they're simply told how to go about some esoteric task. Knowledge converts the drudgery of work into understanding. Understanding puts you in control, which is where you should be as the owner/operator of your own water and sewage system.
Books on basic plumbing abound (some are even worth reading), but plumbing as it pertains to cottaging has been largely overlooked. What makes cottage plumbing different from that serving other rural residences is that cottages are used on a part-time basis, they're sometimes more remote and on more rugged terrain, and cottagers are willing to entertain alternative approaches to water and waste management. System oddities are often viewed by cottagers not as hardships, but as part of the cottage experience. Cottage Water Systems emphasizes those components and processes that pertain specifically to cottages, giving them links to mainstream plumbing.
THE ENVIRONMENTAL ARGUMENT
The most important link, however, remains that direct connection to
Mother Nature. Regrettably, it hasn't always been a good one. In
the introduction to Bungalows, Camps and Mountain Houses, a book
first published in 1908, author William T. Comstock wrote, "Often
the lake or stream which has been the most attractive feature of
a site has been rendered noxious by the drainage from the dwellings
on its shore. Whereas, this matter, if properly considered at the
start, could have been so handled as to maintain the original purity
of the adjacent waters." Writing styles may have changed since
1908 but the facts haven't -- the connection between cottage and nature can be good or bad.
While it's true that agriculture and industry are the principal villains in the degradation of cottage water resources, cottagers themselves are certainly not innocent bystanders. But can one faulty septic system really ruin an entire lake?
Although I don't normally stoop to advancing the theories of economists, one member of this profession did have a good idea. During the '60s, Alfred Kahn came up with a concept he called the tyranny of small decisions. This catchy phrase describes the cumulative effect of a series of small decisions. E.g., adding "just" the overflow from my septic system after a long weekend admittedly won't seriously pollute a large body of water. But add to that the effect of similar contributions from my neighbors and gradually the water becomes unfit to swim in, let alone drink. As every little bit helps, so too can it hurt, another reason to know the "whys" of our actions.
As part of the research for this guide, I contacted 48 states, 10 provinces, and several federal agencies for information pertaining to regulations governing private water and sewage systems. (Alaska and the Canadian territories were left off the mailing list because they don't have enough summer; Hawaii, because it doesn't have enough winter.) The response was overwhelming, to the point that I might even take back some of those disparaging remarks I've made on occasion regarding the work ethics of government bureaucrats. Or at least say thanks.
JURISDICTIONAL OVERLOAD
The common theme to this amassed collection of regulatory paperwork
is diversity of approaches and policies. I have on file about 60
different ways of "doing it right". In some jurisdictions
a cottager is darn-near free to follow the whims of conscience, while
in others it's easier to get a divorce than to put up an outhouse.
(In my jurisdiction, friend Dave was recently threatened with divorce
if he didn't soon provide a suitable indoor replacement for the outdoor
loo.)
Out from under this mound of jurisdictional divergence of opinion come the obligatory caveats. Do not purchase any specialized piece of plumbing equipment or make any alterations to the cottage water system without getting prior approval regarding use and installation, preferably in writing. It may be necessary to get this approval from several government agencies and levels of government, such as those responsible for the environment; natural resources; conservation; public health; navigation of waterways; the welfare of fish; building, plumbing, and electrical codes; and local bylaws.
Hard to believe that many people could be interested in your family's toilet etiquette, but sometimes that's what it takes to flush out potential polluters. And to make this ball of red tape even stickier, you may discover that what's legal back home isn't legal at the cottage, and vice versa. So be patient; most bureaucrats are helpful to those appreciative of their efforts. (Gee, that's the second nice thing I've said about government bureaucrats in one day.)
GO FOR THE BEST
Cottage Water Systems generally aims for the highest common denominator,
although the reader should keep in mind that even this goal is often
based on the minimum standards of the more progressive jurisdictions.
Minimum standards always yield minimum acceptable results for that
area. The financial cost of exceeding those minimums is often negligible,
even from my sedentary wallet's point of view, so go for the best
you can buy. Less expensive is no bargain if it doesn't do an effective
job.
Speaking of which, buy only from knowledgeable sources that specialize in (insert your current need here). This greatly increases the odds of getting a successful solution to your problem. Membership in relevant trade associations can be an indication of professional competence, but it's definitely no guarantee. Sometimes affiliation with a recognized association merely provides an honorable shield for shysters to hide behind. So get references from people capable of judging the particular skills or services of the company or person involved. After many years of dealing with retailers and tradespeople, a few (but certainly not all) with ethics that would embarrass the devil, I have developed this simple rule for character judgments: Never deal with anyone who talks faster than you can think. It's a rule that only fails me when I ignore it.
Some of the things discussed in Cottage Water Systems may contravene regulations in your cottage's locale. Unfortunately, with so many variations in the laws, this is unavoidable. So again: Read, and then check with the relevant authorities before taking any action.
Issues covered: cottage water system, sewage police, pump closer, intake line, vault privy, leaching bed, leaching pit, alternative toilets, most cottagers, composting chamber, foot valve, absorption area, electric heating cable, jet pump, drain tap, patio slabs, sewage pump, sediment filter, drying tray, kitchen tap, submersible pump, faecal coliforms, composting toilet, septic system, waste lines.
Reviews:
As valuable as a "Time Life" book on how to drive a nail.:
This book is a glossy generalists dream. If you don't know what a well
is, buy this guide. If you don't know what a septic tank is, buy this guide. If you can't tell the difference between a submrsible pump or
a jet pump, buy this guide.
If you want to design or install your own hideaway water system, forget
it. The author makes to frequent use of "consult your owners manual", "local
authorities" or "hire someone" to have any real value.
This book would benefit the rural homeowner who has never owned a well, septic, etc. and needs to talk with a repair service. It would be unadvisable to attempt installation or repair of any system with knowledge gained from just this guide.
Great Information - Not Quite Enough:
I'm on the fence here. One reviewer thought that it was way too basic.
And no, I would not attempt to install a pumped water system in my
cabin based on this info solely. On the other hand, I learned TONS
of things, seriously. I mean TONS. I also learned (big time) what
my options are and "how these things work." There is a
WONDERFUL appendix in the back containing the contact info for all
kinds of suppliers, which I found very valuable. In fact, I would
be pretty comfortable building a small grey water drainage system
or something simple. The one thing I was dissappointed about is this
- We plan to use hauled water and roof drainage in a cistern, and there is absolutely nothing about that in the book anywhere. Still,
I enjoyed it.
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Reverse-osmosis filter systems filter out virtually all biological contaminants and most other contaminants, including lead. But they are bulky, have a high initial cost, waste 2 to 5 gal. (7.5 to 19 liters) of water for every purified gallon and require a drain for wastewater.
Installing a Refrigerator Water Filter
Install a refrigerator water filter to remove bad tastes from drinking water and ice cubes. An in-line filter reduces chlorine, rust, sediment and odors. It splices into the standard copper or plastic refrigerator water-supply line. Locate the filter as close as possible to the shut off valve. When you’ve installed the sys tem, quick-connect fittings make it easy to change the filter.
Strap the filter to any nearby support to take the stress off the tubing. Write the installation date on the filter and replace as directed.
1. Shut off the water supply and mark filter space on supply line. Cut out and remove the section. Tighten the cutter in small increments to avoid pinching the soft copper tube.
2. Slip nut and ferrule onto tubing. Thread nut onto fitting until it’s finger tight and then use wrenches to twist one full turn, Install supply fitting on supply side.
3. Snap filter into supply side. Make sure water-flow indicator points toward the fridge. Flush water through filter for five minutes, and then snap filter into other fitting.
Maintaining Water Softeners
These maintenance steps will help softeners keep running efficiently. Consult your instruction manual or a specialist for more details before performing any tune-up.
1. Clean the brine tank. Sometimes the salt forms a hard, hollow dome in the tank if you add too much salt.
2. Purge an iron-fouled resin bed by running a rust remover through the system. Iron-rich water can eventually foul the resin bed that removes the hard-water particles and replaces them with sodium. Follow the directions for the amount to add to the brine tank; then run your softener through a manual regeneration to purge the wastewater. Also, use rust-remover salt to help pre vent future problems.
3. Clean the resin tank injector. The injector screen sometimes gets plugged with sediment caused from dirty salt. To clean it, consult your softener’s instruction manual for information.
Saving Water
Changing habits can, over the course of a year, save more water than investing in water-saving appliances. Taking shorter showers or shutting off the tap while you brush your teeth can make a big difference. You can also wait until you have a full load before running the dishwasher or washing machine. Plumbing maintenance is another huge water saver -- a dripping faucet or running toilet can waste thousands of gallons or liters of water, so make prompt repairs.
Low-flow showerhead. By converting from a 5-gal-per-minute (19-liters-per-minute) shower-head to a 2.5-gal. (10-liters) model, you’ll save water and the cost of heating it.
Water-saving toilet. Older toilets use as
much as 5 gal. (19 liters) of water per flush. New toilets are required
to use only 1 .6 gal. (6 liters) per flush. | Top of Page | Prev: Pipes and Pipe Fittings: Cast Iron | Next: Roughing a Half Bath | Home |
Last modified: Friday, 2007-11-02 23:42 PST
