HOME | Glossary | Books |
Traditionally a corner cabinet or cupboard is completely triangular. This version allows for slightly longer shelves without cutting off too much of the room. It also prevents the cabinet from appearing too massive. These shelves are greater in distance from front to back than is standard board lumber. Therefore, unless you are able to edge-glue boards together to make sheets of solid wood, build this project with plywood shelves, including top and bottom pieces. Make face frame and rear spine out of solid wood. Shelves are 19 3/8-inches at the deepest point. Forming side panels From 3 solid-core plywood or solid 1-by pine or hardwood, cut two 5½-inch-wide strips for side pieces. 1. Determine height of cabinet (72 inches is a comfortable height) and cut two 5½-inch strips to that length. 2. Rip a 45-degree rabbet along back edge of each side piece. If you are using a circular saw, this may require two passes. 3. Crosscut a rabbet at inner top of each side piece. Make rabbet ¾ inch deep and ¾ inch wide. 4. Lay out desired pattern of shelves on inner faces of side pieces, and cut a 3 by ¾-inch-wide dado for each shelf. Be sure that dadoes line up with each other when the 2 side pieces lie side by side and face up. If they don’t, you will have slanted shelves! Note that if you plan to use a 1 by 6 for bottom rail of face frame, you should cut lowest dado in side pieces so that top of dado is 5½ inches from bottom of side pieces. Making a spine 1. Cut a 2 by 4 to the same length as side pieces you already formed. 2. Bevel-rip 2 by 4 into a trapezoidal shape by making 2 rip cuts at 45 degrees, 1 along each side of board. 3. Cut rabbet and dadoes across wide face of board to match pattern of cuts on side pieces. Use a side piece as a gauge to mark cuts on spine. Make these cuts 3/8-inch deep and ¾ inch wide. Making shelves Top of case is actually a shelf. It is held by rabbets cut in side pieces and spine. Shelves sit in dadoes cut into sides and spine. From ¾” plywood, cut shelves and top to dimensions shown in illustration. For better appearance, attach a strip of ¼-inch by ¾-inch hardwood trim to front edge of each shelf board before making final dimensional cuts. Assembling the case 1. Assemble main framework of case, face down. Fit 1 side piece to edges of top and shelves. Apply glue into each dado, and fit side and shelves together, making sure that shelves and side piece are flush at the front. Secure joint with finishing nails. 2. Before glue sets on first side piece, apply glue to dadoes in second side piece and fit opposite ends of shelves. Secure with finishing nails. 3. Without delay, apply glue to cuts in spine and lay spine into position at back of shelves. If cuts were accurate, everything will fit, but minor adjustments can be made before glue is set. When satisfied, nail spine to shelves. With case still face down, square it up, make sure it is not twisted, then do not disturb it until glue has set. Attaching backing 1. Add back panels with case still face down. Measure and cut panels from ¼-inch plywood. Each panel should extend from notch at back of side panel to back edge of spine. Make top and bottom of each panel flush with top and bottom of case. 2. Apply glue to notch in side pieces and along spine. Place each back panel in position, and nail it to sides, shelves, and spine with 5 brads. Adding face frame 1. Turn case over and measure front. Cut pieces required for face frame from 1 by 2 solid stock. Illustration shows a face frame around perimeter of case, but you could add a center stile, as well as 1 or more intermediary rails. This would allow you to attach several smaller door panels, rather than 1 or 2 large doors. 2. Join corners of face frame together. Attach frame to front of case. 3. Set nail heads, and fill holes and gaps with filler. Sand, and apply the finish of your choice.
Prev.: Interlocking
Shelve Full guide: How to Plan & Build Bookcases, Cabinets & Shelves |
Modified: Monday, 2010-12-06 16:44 PST