Tools fall into three categories: hand tools, such as hammers, screwdrivers, chisels, and squares; hand-held power tools, such as electric drills and saber saws; and stationary power tools that are larger, hard-to-move machines, such as table saws and radial arm saws.
Good tools are a good investment. You can build your collection gradually as you build your skills, but al ways buy quality. Inferior tools make it extremely difficult to do good work, and they continually have to be re placed. Once you have good tools, take care of them. Keep them oiled, clean, and sharp.
Lumberyards, home centers, and hardware stores are the places where you will be selecting most of your tools, but don’t overlook two other sources: mail order and flea markets. Popular do-it-yourself magazines carry ads for mail-order tools and hardware. Order catalogs first, and when selecting tools, stick with name brands to be safe. Many estate-sale tools end up at the flea market. Hand tools will predominate, and many of these older, well-made tools will stand up to several generations of use.
Despite the value of power tools, a good set of hand tools is the backbone of any woodworking shop, and you can’t claim to be a good carpenter if you’re unable to use them.
The projects in this guide call for the tools listed below, and these are all that are actually necessary. However, working with only these would make the building process much slower and more laborious. If you are building a bookcase with hand tools, think seriously about having boards cut to size at the lumberyard.
Measuring tool
Accurate measurements are essential to the success of any construction project. Both a retractable metal tape measure and a carpenter’s folding rule will come in handy.
Hammer
A 16-ounce curved-claw hammer is probably the most useful all-around hammer for a home workshop. Lift and swing the ones at the hardware store to see what feels comfortable for you. A 5-ounce magnetized tack hammer is useful for driving brads and working in tight places. For set ting tight joints and general wood persuasion, a rubber mallet is a must.
Having the right tools and using them properly can turn a do-it-yourselfer
into a carpenter Before trying to duplicate the skilful shapes incorporated
into this bathroom vanity, make sure that you have mastered the tools and
techniques required.
Screwdriver
You should own several flat-blade screwdrivers to handle different-sized slotted screws. Special straight-sided screwdrivers are used to tighten screws inside a counterbore. Phillips screws require Phillips screwdrivers.
Awl
The pointed tip of this useful tool will mark stock and make holes for starting small screws.
Try square/combination square
Use these for making sure that corners are square, marking cut lines on boards, and taking measurements. Combination squares have built-in spirit levels and can be used as a marking gauge as well.
Carpenter’s level
This will help determine whether the work is level (on horizontal surfaces) and plumb (on vertical surfaces).
Handsaw
The familiar-looking handsaw comes in two versions: the crosscut saw for cutting across the grain of the wood and the ripsaw for cutting along the grain. The two look very similar; the difference is the configuration of the teeth. Often the blade is stamped with the type that it is. A crosscut saw is the most useful.
Backsaw
Although the handle shapes vary, all backsaws have a rectangular blade and a reinforced backbone along the top. The smaller versions—tenon saws and dovetail saws—are used for hand-cutting those joints respectively. The larger backsaw is the type of saw used with a miter box.
Miter box
This slotted box holds the saw blade at a particular angle (commonly 90 degrees and 45 degrees), so that a precise cut can be made.
Plane
A plane shaves wood to smooth, square, and flatten it. The general-use jack plane works in the direction of the grain of the wood. The smaller block plane is used for shaping the ends of boards, rounded surfaces, and spots too small for the jack plane to handle.
Chisel
The beveled blade of this tool makes it possible to remove excess wood from notches and grooves. It can also be used to trim off the protruding tops of wood plugs that cover countersunk screws. Chisels are available in various widths. They can be purchased individually or as a set, but in any case, make sure to have ¼-inch, ½-inch, and ¾-inch chisels.
File and rasp
For cleaning up cut surfaces and creating irregular shapes, it’s a good idea to have a selection of files and rasps on hand. The single-cut files are used for tool maintenance as well as for wood removal, but rasps, with individual triangular teeth, are meant for wood only. Use the rasp for rough work. The file, especially the single cut, will produce a smoother surface. Rifflers are small curved rasps used to clean out and finish carvings. The Surform is a modern, rasp-like tool. It comes in several models with replaceable blades of either stamped steel or abrasive grit.
Sanding block
Wrapping abrasive paper around a sanding block makes hand-sanding easier. Blocks that hold the abrasive paper securely and are shaped for a comfortable grip can be purchased. However, any block of wood that fits the hand will do the job.
Scraping plate
A simple 3-inch by 5-inch steel plate, scraping plate, or cabinet scraper takes the place of abrasive paper on some jobs—and with better results. It’s necessary, however, to learn the sharpening technique to renew the scraper edges when they dull.
Clamp
Clamps will hold a glued joint securely while the adhesive sets. There are a variety of types including bar, spring, miter, and C-clamps. Each has a specific function. The C-clamp, which resembles the letter it is named for, is the most common type found in a carpentry shop.
Vise
Mounted on the workbench, the vise will hold a board firmly while it is worked on. The woodworking vise, with larger, wood faces, is preferred to the basic shop vise, but either kind will do.
Hand drill or bit brace
If you don’t plan to get an electric drill, use either of these tools to drill holes. Operating a hand drill is a bit like using an eggbeater. The bit brace is turned by a ratchet and a sweeping, U-shaped handle.
Doweling jig
This device clamps onto a board and acts as a guide for drilling straight, perpendicular holes. It works best if both boards to be doweled are clamped together and then drilled in succession without relocating the clamp. If one set of holes must be drilled first, place dowel centers in them to mark the second board for drilling.
Whetstone
A whetstone is useful for keeping a sharp edge on bladed tools—particularly chisels. When sharpening on a whetstone, be sure you maintain the bevel at the proper angle.
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Full guide: How to Plan & Build Bookcases, Cabinets & Shelves
