Serger Troubleshooting

Having trouble perfecting your serging? The problem is usually something you can remedy your self without consulting a repair specialist. Quickly check the most likely possibilities:

1. Check the obvious. Is the machine plugged in and turned on? Are the covers closed? Is the presser foot lowered? Have you raised the thread guide pole to its highest position?

2. Look at the threading. One of the most common causes of stitching problems is the threading or rethreading. (See Threading Troubleshooting in Section 4.)

3. Examine the needle(s). Some repair specialists do this the very first thing.

+ Are you using the exact needle type specified for your serger model? If not, you will likely have stitching problems or stitches won’t form at all.

+ Is the needle inserted correctly, all the way into the needle bar with the groove squarely in the front? If not, the stitches will be irregular or won’t form at all. Tighten the set screw so the needle doesn’t slip out of position.

+ Is the needle burred, bent, or dull? If so, you may get puckering, snagging, or skipped stitches. Even a new needle can be defective.

+ Are you using the correct needle size? For heavy fabric or thread, you may need a larger needle. For delicate fabric and fine thread, a smaller needle will work best.

4. Is your tension adjustment correct? If your needle- thread tension is too light, it can cause puckering or the thread will break. If the looper tensions aren’t adjusted correctly, the stitching can be unbalanced, irregular, or puckered. When you change thread or fabric, always check the tension settings and readjust if necessary.

5. Are the knives dull or out of position? Test them by serging a piece of slippery, light weight fabric. If the cutting is ragged and uneven, the softer blade should be replaced. Also check to see if the blades are properly engaged. Refer to your owner’s manual for specific instructions or ask your dealer to demonstrate correct positioning if you are unsure.

6. Are the differential feed and presser-foot pressure adjusted correctly? Have you returned to a normal setting after serging a heavy, light, or stretchy fabric? Can you use either control to help prevent stretching or puckering (see Section 8)?

7. Have you used the correct serging techniques?

+ Are you feeding fabric through the machine correctly? Pulling the fabric through the machine as you serge can cause needle breakage, looper dam age, and problems.

On difficult fabrics, have you lifted the toe or the entire foot to insert the fabric under it to begin serging? This can prevent bunching of the thread and will start two layers feeding evenly.

+ With slippery or heavy fabrics, are you holding the thread chain behind the presser foot to help start serging smoothly? If not, the stitches can bunch or jam under the foot.

+ Are you using a high-quality, evenly twisted thread for best results? The weight should also be appropriate for the fabric. Some novelty threads can't be used successfully on all brands and models of sergers, so always test first.

8. Are you using the right stitch length? A long stitch might cause puckering and a short stitch can cause stretching or jamming. Always test first before serging your garment or project.

9. Have you regularly cleaned and oiled the ma chine? See our Care and Maintenance section for specific suggestions.

10. Is your serger completely jammed? Removing the jam without damaging the fabric can be a delicate task. Use this procedure recommended by expert problem solver Sue Green-Baker:

+ Remove the presser foot and disengage the knife (if possible).

+ Cut the needle and upper looper threads close to the stitching. Then pull slack in the lower looper thread by tugging underneath the tension control.

+ Rotate the handwheel back and forth to loosen the needle from the fabric. Raise the needle (if you can) and gently pull on the fabric until it's loosened. Pull the fabric toward the back of the machine, removing it from the stitch finger.

+ If you can’t raise the needle, loosen the needle screw and rotate the handwheel to bring the needle bar up.

+ Gently remove the needle and loosen the fabric from the stitch finger.

To avoid a jam:

+ Never serge with the fabric edge to the right of the needle plate when the knives are disengaged. Because the extra fabric isn’t trimmed, it can bunch in the stitches or jam in the loopers.

+ Draw the thread chain toward the back of the machine before stitching.

+ Keep the looper cover closed while stitching. Trimmings can get caught and tangled in the loopers.

+ When serging with heavy thread in the looper(s), begin with a medium-length stitch and shorten gradually. The thread bulk can cause a jam if the stitch is too short.

+ The fabric may be too thick to feed smoothly through the serger. If so, zigzag along the stitching line first to compress the layers.