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Threading isn't something to be afraid of. We’ll start right at the beginning, explaining all about different thread types and how to choose quality thread for your serger. Then you’ll learn how to change the thread and how to thread your machine from scratch. Take it slowly, reread the text as often as necessary, and practice. Threading can be easy when taken one step at a time, in the proper order. Purchasing Thread Choose your thread wisely. Serging usually uses much more thread than straight-stitching, so it’s cost effective to buy larger quantities. Consider quality, color, type of thread, and fiber content before purchasing. If you can’t find what you’re looking for at your local fabric stores, you can order a wide variety of thread through the mail. Serger Thread Serger thread is available on tubes or cones in large quantities of 1,000 to 6,000 yards and is wound to feed from the top for high-speed sewing. It is lighter weight than all-purpose thread so that seams will still be supple, even with several strands of thread in the seam allowance. TIPS:
For larger cones of thread, I use a separate cone-thread holder, available at sewing stores or through Internet order sources. + Polyester or nylon thread— The most widely available serger thread is made of 100% polyester. Both polyester and nylon threads have some elasticity and good strength. + Cotton-wrapped polyester thread—A polyester core gives this thread strength and elasticity, while a cotton coating adds heat resistance and blends well with natural-fiber fabrics. + Cotton thread—Although it lacks strength and elasticity, cotton thread works well for serging light- and medium-weight natural-fiber fabrics. + Woolly nylon thread—This texturized nylon thread comes on cones and makes an especially attractive serger stitch. The unique, crimped texture fluffs out after serging, filling in spaces between the thread for complete coverage of the fabric underneath. (Fig. 4-2)
Because of its texture, woolly nylon has some stretch and works well on stretch fabrics. It is made of 100% nylon and is exceptionally strong. In addition, its soft finish is very comfortable on seams that will be worn next to the skin. TIPS: One brand of woolly nylon thread (Talon’s Designer Edge) isn't crimped. It can be used for all the same purposes and will still fill in between stitches—it just won’t fluff out quite as much. Synthetic threads may leave a sticky residue between the tension discs, and cotton thread may leave lint fibers. Clean the discs regularly. All-purpose Thread Because of its shorter yardages, all-purpose thread is sometimes less convenient. However, if an exact color match is necessary and you won’t be using that color again, you may find it a better buy than large spools or cones of serger thread. All-purpose thread is heavier in weight than serger thread and is best used on medium- to heavy-weight fabrics. Use extra-fine all-purpose thread for more delicate fabrics. When serging with traditional all-purpose spools, be sure to place the notched side down and use a spool cap for even feeding. (Fig. 4-3) TIPS: Because of its strength, I always recommend all- purpose thread over lighter weight serger thread. Some imported all- purpose thread is cross- wound in a diamond pattern and will release easily from the top of the spool. Look for imported brands of all-purpose thread that come on smooth spools. They won’t catch or require spool caps during serging. Good Quality Versus Poor Quality Beware of bargains when purchasing thread. The money saved isn't worth the frustration of serging with poor-quality thread. Because a serger stitches so quickly—around 1,500 stitches per minute—thread strength and quality are especially important. Inferior thread may have weak spots that break, even twists or slubs that catch in a needle or thread guide, or loose fibers that fray. Look at the thread carefully to judge the quality. Inferior thread, made with short, leftover filaments, may have fiber ends poking out, giving the thread a “hairy” look. Or the thread may be twisted unevenly with thick and thin areas. Quality thread is smooth and evenly twisted. (Fig. 4-4)
Matching or Blending? Purchasing three or four cones or tubes per color of serger thread can be quite costly. You’ll be relieved to hear that an exact color match isn’t always essential. On 3-thread seams inside a garment, the needle thread is the only thread that might show from the right side. Unless you’re stitching sheer fabric or an unlined jacket where the seam allowances will be exposed, it isn’t necessary to color- match the looper threads to the garment fabric. When using a 4-thread stitch, use matching thread in the left (seamline) needle. For blending (rather than matching) serger thread colors, purchase ivory to blend with pastels or light-colored fabrics, gray to blend with medium tones, and black, navy, or brown to blend with darker colors. For an exact color match on small jobs, purchase spools of all-purpose thread. Decorative Options Serger loopers have much larger eyes than the needles. This allows you to thread them with heavier decorative threads. You’ll learn much more about decorative serging in Section 12, Looking at Ornamental Options.
Quick-change Threading Experiment with easy quick- change threading. It will save minutes every time you want to change to a different thread type or color. (That can add up to quite a block of precious sewing time!) To use this technique, your serger must already be correctly threaded. If one of the threads is broken or unthreaded, you’ll need to rethread from scratch (see The Complete Threading Process, next). 1. Clip the needle thread(s) just above the needle eye(s) and unthread it. You’ll need to do this even when the needle thread doesn’t need changing. (Fig. 4-6)
2. Raise the presser foot. Hold the thread chain behind the presser foot and run the serger until about 4” of unchained thread is stretched behind the needle. The looper threads will separate because the needle thread is clipped. (Fig. 4-7) Fig. 4-7: Hold the chain and run the serger to produce 4” of unchained thread. 3. Determine which thread(s) you would like to change and clip each just above the cone or spool. Put new thread onto the spool pin and tie it onto the old thread, pulling at the knot to be sure it’s secure before continuing.
4. Remove the thread from the tension discs or turn the dials to their lowest settings. (If your machine has a tension-release lever, hold it down.) This will prevent the knot from untying as you draw the new thread through the machine. Gently pull through each thread that you’re replacing (one at a time) until the knot is a few inches behind the presser foot. 5. Rethread the needle(s) and draw the thread down and out under the back of the presser foot. Replace the threads in the tension discs or return the dials to their previous settings. While holding the thread ends behind the presser foot, turn the handwheel a couple of times to be sure the stitches are forming on the stitch finger. Then serge slowly to form a new thread chain. The Complete Threading Process To be fully comfortable using your serger, you’ll need to practice threading until it’s practically second nature to you. Although quick-change threading is very handy, there will be times when you must thread your machine from scratch—especially when a thread breaks or is unthreaded. Threading from scratch isn’t difficult when you work slowly and methodically, but any of us can become frustrated when we try to rush through the process. Follow these guidelines, beginning with a completely unthreaded machine: Select different thread colors for each spool. If your machine has color-coded thread guides, use corresponding thread colors. Extend the thread-guide pole to its highest position, and place the spools or cones on the spool pins. Consult your owner’s manual to determine which looper to thread first. Begin
by feeding the end of that thread forward through the initial thread guide(s)
on the extended pole. Follow the color- coded thread guides or the diagram
on your machine or in the owner’s manual. Double-check to be sure the thread
has been routed through every guide, and verify that the thread is engaged
between the tension discs. (See Fig. 4-9) Next thread the other looper, following the same procedure you used for the first one. Check to see that the loopers are not crossed before threading the looper eye. If they are, turn the handwheel to position them correctly, as shown. (Fig. 4-11) To verify that the loopers are threaded properly and the thread won’t tangle, hold the thread ends slightly taut behind the presser foot and turn the handwheel a few times. (Fig. 4-12) Note: Turn the handwheel in the proper direction. It may turn either counterclockwise, as on a conventional machine, or in the opposite direction. Check the directional arrow on the handwheel or consult your owner’s manual for the correct direction. + Thread the needle(s) last! When the needle is threaded before one or both of the loopers, the thread may become trapped and break when you begin to serge. First, feed the thread end through the initial thread guide and follow the color-coded guides or the diagram on your machine or in the owner’s manual. Double-check to be sure the thread has been routed through every guide, and verify that the thread is engaged between the tension discs before threading the needle. + Before beginning to serge, use your tweezers to properly position the thread tails. They should run directly from the looper and needle eyes out under the back of the presser foot. + Hold the thread ends behind the presser foot, gently guiding them toward the back of the machine while turning the handwheel a few times. Check to be sure stitches are forming on the stitch finger before using the foot control. Serge at least a 3” thread chain, still holding onto (but not pulling) the ends. TIPS:
I used to rummage around to find my tweezers until I started storing them on the thread-guide pole for easy access.
TIP: Slide your tweezers under the foot from front to back to quickly release and straighten all the threads. Threading Troubleshooting If the thread keeps breaking, or stitches are not forming properly, or a thread chain isn't forming at all, chances are the serger is threaded incorrectly—the most common serger problem. The solution is relatively simple: carefully retrace the thread paths, one at a time: 1. Begin tracing each thread at the spool base. Is the thread unwinding smoothly from the cone or spool? Make certain the thread- guide pole is extended to its highest position. And be sure the thread isn't wrapped around the spool pin, caught in a spool notch, or wound under the spool. For even feeding, use spool caps or cone holders. On several models, the spool base must be moved to the right and clicked into position for serging (check your owner’s manual setup procedure). Not moving it over will cause incorrect stitching. 2. Unwind a yard of thread by hand from the cone or spool to see if the thread is unreeling freely and evenly. If it isn’t, check for excess glue from the wrapper or possibly a drop of seam sealant. Unwind and discard the unusable thread. 3. Continue tracing each thread path to be sure every guide has been threaded, including the eye of the looper or needle. Also make certain the thread isn't wrapped around any guides twice or threaded through in the wrong direction. Check that the thread isn't wrapped around the needle. (Fig. 4-14)
4. Tug the thread into the tension mechanism to be sure it's securely between the discs. (See Hg. 4-9) 5. Position the thread tails directly from the looper and needle eyes out under the back of the presser foot. (See Fig. 4-12) 6. If you’re still having problems, clip the needle thread(s) just above the eye, and turn the handwheel until the loopers are not crossing. (See Fig. 4-11) Hold the threads behind the presser foot and turn the handwheel a few times to confirm that they are properly threaded before rethreading the needle(s). 7. If you still can’t thread the machine properly, get a good night’s sleep and start again when you’re fresh and not frustrated. Completely rethread from scratch, following the sequence recommended in your owner’s manual. TIPS: A common threading problem occurs after you rethread the lower looper. Because you turn the handwheel to position the lower looper to the left for threading visibility and then to the right to thread the eye, it picks up and traps the needle thread(s) as It passes across. When you start to serge, the threads will cross each other and the one with the greatest stress (usually the looper thread) will break. (Fig. 4-15) The easiest solution is to raise the needle to its highest position and pull the needle thread(s) out from the needle plate (using the tweezers) just before beginning to serge. (Fig. 4-16) If you can’t remember to clear the needle thread(s) every time you rethread, clip the needle thread(s) before rethreading.
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Saturday, 2010-05-15 18:19
Fig. 4-3: When serging with all-purpose thread spools, place the notched
side down.
Fig 4-9 There are two discs inside each tension mechanism. Pressure between
these discs places tension on the thread. When rethreading the tension control,
tug the thread firmly to be sure It has slipped completely between the discs.
(Fig. 4-9) If there is still no tension on the thread, turn the tension dial
to the lowest setting, slip the thread between the discs, then return the
dial to its previous setting.
Fig. 4-14: When you have a threading problem, check the most common
reasons.
