SUMMARY
• Pattern information and instructions are provided on the envelope, guide
sheet, and tissue pattern pieces. (7)
• Body measurements should be compared to those on a pattern envelope to
see if any adjustments are needed. (8)
• Fabric may need straightening, pre-shrinking, or pressing.
• The cutting layout shows how to arrange pattern pieces on fabric.
• Each pattern piece should be placed on the proper grain line before pinning
in place.
• Bent-handled shears are used to cut out pattern pieces.
• Construction lines and symbols can be marked with a fabric-marking pen,
tracing wheel and dressmaker's tracing paper, or tailor's chalk.
Review and Activities
RECALLING THE FACTS
1. For what specific reasons do you need a pattern guide sheet?
2. What are the lines and symbols on pat tern pieces? Explain the purpose
of each.
3. Why should pattern pieces be smoothed or pressed? (7)
4. How do you widen a pattern? (8)
5. How do you combine two different sizes on a multisized pattern? (8)
6. Why are most garments cut with the lengthwise grain running vertically?
(9)
7. How can you preshrink washable fabric? (9)
8. What does "off-grain" mean? (9)
9. How can fabric grain be straightened? (9)
10. How can you determine the right side of a fabric?
11. Why are some fabrics folded with right side in and some with it out?
Give examples.
12. Why shouldn't you tilt or angle a pattern piece to save fabric?
13. Why do some fabrics require special pat tern layouts? Give examples.
14. How can you know in which direction to cut a pattern piece?
15. Describe how to cut around notches.
16. Why should you save fabric scraps?
17. List five construction lines and symbols that need to be marked and two that don't.
APPLYING KNOWLEDGE
1. Measurements. Compare your own measurements with the body measurements
listed on a pattern envelope.
Indicate any differences. In writing explain what adjustments, if any, you
would need to make in the pattern.
2. Marking techniques. Use the three marking methods on different types
of fabrics. Compare the results.
3. Pattern preparation. Complete the following steps on your pattern: circle
the layout diagram, select needed pattern pieces, write your name on all
pattern parts, smooth out or press pattern pieces, and mark cutting lines
on multi sized pattern.
4. Pattern adjustment. Make any needed length or width adjustments on your
pat tern pieces.
5. Layout, cutting, and marking. Demonstrate the proper techniques for laying
out, pinning, cutting, and marking fabric.
6. Project management. In Part 1, you planned a sewing project. Planning
is the first step in the management process. Now utilize the next two management
steps, listed below, as you work on your project.
a. Get organized: Write a timeline for your project. For example, when will
you work on the project, and what tasks can you realistically accomplish
at each session? Gather supplies and any other resources you need.
b. Implement your plan: As you work on your project, check your progress
against the timeline. Are you working efficiently and using your resources
well? if not, make adjustments in order to be done on schedule.
==
Underhanded Uniquizing Effort Sub-Series:
Wiki Sewing
Marking Fabric
In order for a pattern to be sewn in the way it's pictured on a pattern
envelope, you have to sew the pattern accurately. Pattern markings guide
you in joining the fabric. Darts, button placement, and dot markings all
need to be transferred from the pattern to the fabric. This can be done using
one of the three methods below.
To test which marking method will work the best, use fabric scraps from
your project. Make sure the markings don't show through to the right side
of the fabric and that the markings will wash out of the fabric.
• Keep the pattern in place, and remove only as many pins as necessary to
mark the fabric. Use dress maker's carbon and a tracing wheel (a) with a
straight edge to transfer lines and guides. Mark the wrong side of the fabric
with a carbon color that varies from the fabric just enough for it to be
visible.
• Place a pin through the pattern markings, and mark the fabric with tailor's
chalk or tailor's pencils on the wrong side of the fabric.
• Tailor tacks (b) are loops of thread that are sewn through pattern markings
to transfer those markings to delicate and napped fabric. The layers of fabric
are gently separated, and the loops are cut to leave thread strands in the
fabric. ==
Relate to other science/technology disciplines ...
1. Math. Suppose you want to widen a pants pattern a total of 1½”
(3.75 cm). How much should you add to the front and back pieces?
2. Internet. Review the Web sites of two or more pattern companies.
Compare the information provided by each pat tern company. What additional
information might be helpful to beginning sewers? How user-friendly was each
site? Summarize your evaluation of the Web sites in an oral written or report.
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