Often, folks are so eager to see their completed sewing project that they
rush the process. Before you begin to sew, think about how helpful an organized
approach can be.
STAYING ORGANIZED
What can you do to save time and energy before and during a sewing project?
Keep these ideas in mind:
• Gather all the notions and supplies you'll need. Check the list on the
back of the pattern envelope.
• Double-check the steps to take. Verify the lay out before cutting. Before
stitching, make sure fabric pieces are pinned together correctly. Be sure
the fit is correct before continuing.
• Press after each construction step. Pressing some areas after stitching
can be difficult.
• Fit as you go. Minor adjustments made during construction are easier than
a major alteration at the end.
PATTERNS AND THEIR PARTS
Your most helpful assistant throughout a sewing project will probably be
the pattern. Like a blueprint, a pattern has all the instructions you need
to construct a project. Following the pattern is one more way to stay organized
as you sew.
Before beginning a project, read the pattern carefully. Every pattern consists
of the three parts shown in Fgr. 1: an envelope, a guide sheet, and tissue
pattern pieces. Each item contains valuable information.
Pattern Envelope
On the front of the pattern envelope is a drawing or photograph of the design.
Several garment views may be shown to give you a selection of styles. From
the illustrations, you can see how the garment fits-whether it's slim or
full on the body.
The envelope front lists the pattern number, size, and price. Sometimes
a label indicates that the pattern is "Easy" or "Includes
an Estimated Sewing Time." A special feature of the pattern may be mentioned.
For example, whether a pat tern is a designer fashion, sewing lesson, or
craft project might be noted.
As you learned earlier, the reverse side of the pattern envelope shows how
the garment looks from the back and lists the amount of fabric and notions
needed.
Guide Sheet
The guide sheet gives step-by-step information for cutting, marking, and sewing. On the front are cutting layouts and general information, including
how to lengthen and shorten a pattern. The reverse side has sewing directions.
By referring regularly to the pattern guide sheet, you're less likely to
have to rip out and redo stitches.
Fgr. 1 How are the three parts of a pattern used?
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TIP:
Guide sheet. Always keep your guide sheet handy for quick reference through
layout and construction. By circling the cutting layout you're using, you'll
always focus on the right one at each glance and be less likely to copy some
thing incorrectly from a different layout.
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Fgr. 2 You'll use the guide sheet from start to finish when sewing with
a pattern.
Cutting Layouts
The cutting layout is a diagram that shows how to arrange pattern pieces
on fabric. See Fgr. 3. This diagram makes it easier to recognize and find
the pattern pieces you need. Select the diagram that matches your particular
design view, pattern size, and fabric width and nap.
Separate layouts may be provided for fabrics with and without nap. A separate
cutting layout may be included for interfacing and lining.
Sewing Directions
Step-by-step sewing directions appear on the back of the guide sheet. For
patterns with several views, the directions may continue to one or more additional
sheets. As you follow the directions, you'll want to be sure you follow the
steps that apply to the view you're making.
A fabric key shows how shading and texture indicate the right and wrong
sides of fabric and any interfacing or lining. Some construction details
may be enlarged to show the specific sewing procedure clearly.
Pattern Pieces
Each pattern piece is marked with a number or letter and with a specific
name, such as collar or sleeve. The number of fabric pieces to be cut is
also printed on the pattern piece.
The symbols and lines on the pattern pieces serve as guides during cutting and sewing. Some pattern pieces have many markings; others have only a few.
Learn to recognize and understand these symbols and lines.
Underhanded Uniquizing Effort Sub-Series:
Wiki Sewing
Place the Bobbin in the Sewing Machine
Bobbins are inserted in sewing machines in a variety of ways. Your machine
manual is the best source for learning the proper way to insert the bobbin.
DROP-IN BOBBIN
Drop-in bobbins don't have a removable bobbin case. The bobbin is set
in place. The bobbin tail thread is guided through necessary guides.
Once the sewing machine is threaded, the needle is lowered and raised
by turning the balance wheel to catch the bobbin thread and bring it through
the throat plate as a loop of thread. Use a pin to unloop the thread, and pull it back under the presser foot.
A large variety of sewing machines have a bobbin case.
They mount differently from machine to machine. Most have a latch that
releases the bobbin case from the machine.
The bobbin tail thread is then threaded though the case slot and under
the tension spring.
Hold the bobbin case by the latch to insert it back into the machine and follow the steps on the previous page for bringing the bobbin thread up
through the throat plate.
PATTERN PREPARATION
Remember to handle pattern pieces carefully because they tear easily. Follow
these steps to pre pare the pattern pieces:
1. Remove the entire pattern from the envelope.
2. On the guide sheet, circle the cutting layout you'll use.
3. Select the pattern pieces for the view you're sewing.
4. Fold the rest of the pattern pieces and put them back into the envelope.
5. Cut apart any pattern pieces printed together on one large piece of tissue
paper. You need not trim away extra tissue paper from around the pieces.
This will be cut off as you cut out the fabric.
6. Write your name on the guide sheet, the pat tern envelope, and all the
pattern pieces.
7. Smooth out pattern pieces. If necessary, press them with a cool, dry
iron. Wrinkled pattern pieces make it very difficult to cut fabric accurately.
8. On a multisized pattern, mark cutting lines for your size with a felt-tip
pen.
Fgr. 3 Although there are many cutting layouts for a pattern, you'll use
only the diagrams that show a particular view, size, and fabric width and nap.
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Fgr. 4 - Pattern Symbols and Lines
Grain line. Heavy, solid line with an arrow at each end; appears
on all pattern pieces not placed on a fold. The grain line indicates how
to place the pattern piece on grain. To do this, the grain-line arrow must
be exactly parallel to the selvage unless otherwise noted.
Cutting line. Heavy line that outlines pattern pieces. Sometimes a scissors
symbol on the line shows the proper cutting direction.
Occasionally a cutting line appears within the pattern to indicate a shorter
hemline, lower neckline, or lining cut from the same pat tern piece. If the
pattern is multisized, major pattern pieces have several cutting lines. Each
cutting line is marked to indicate the corresponding size. To avoid confusion,
use a felt-tip pen to mark the cutting lines for your size.
Notches. Diamond-shaped symbols that extend beyond the cutting line; used
for matching seams and joining garment pieces. Always cut around notches
to create fabric extensions that can be clearly seen. When two or more notches
are grouped together, cut them as a single block.
Stitching line, or seam line. If you are using an older pattern, it may
have broken lines that indicate where to sew. These seam lines are not printed
on multisized patterns. See Fgr. 5. However, it will be easier to make pattern
adjustments if you draw these seam lines on your pattern pieces. The width
of the seam allowance is listed in the general directions on the front of
the guide sheet. The most common width is 5/8” (1.5 cm).
Center front and center back. Solid line that indicates the center of the
garment. If brackets appear on this line, it should be placed on a fold.
Place on fold. Bracketed grain line that indicates the pattern edge is to
be placed exactly on the fold.
Fold line. Solid line that shows where fabric will be folded to form a finished
edge, such as a hemline or cuff.
Dots, squares, and triangles. Symbols used to help match and join garment
sections, especially areas that are gathered or eased.
Dart. Triangular or diamond shape indicated by dots and two bro ken lines.
Buttonholes. Solid lines that show the exact locations and lengths of buttonholes.
Placement lines. Single, solid, or broken lines that show the exact locations
of pockets, pleats, zippers, and trims.
Adjustment lines. Double parallel lines that show where the pattern pieces
can be lengthened or shortened.
Hemline. Solid line that indicates the finished edge of the garment and the depth of the hem.
Dots, squares, and triangles; Placement line; Center front and center back;
Cutting line; Location of stitching line, or seam line; Adjustment line;
Place on fold; Fold line; Buttonholes; Grain line
Fgr. 5 On a multisized pattern, the lines can be hard to follow. Outlining
the size you want on the pattern makes cutting easier and reduces the chances
of error.
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