Designing Knitwear

Designing Knitwear

by: Deborah Newton

Topics include: pat sts, last sts, indented sleeve, armhole depth measures, smooth stockinette, colorwork patterns, twist panel, cabled rib pattern, ridged pat, stitch colorwork, stockinette row, reverse stockinette background, oversized silhouette, purl patterns, stranded patterns, raglan line, stranded colorwork, chevron pat, edge sts, incs each side, isolated graphics, vertical pocket opening, coral jacket, corrugated ribbing, stockinette fabric

Book Description:

Editorial Reviews From Library Journal -- Readers of Vogue Knitting and Threads are familiar with Newton's beautifully crafted knitwear, as are readers of mass circulation periodicals like Family Circle and Woman's Day. Here Newton systematizes her approach to designing handknit garments and, in the process, shares information she searched for in vain when she was a fledgling designer. Using 16 of her original designs as teaching tools, Newton takes the reader from idea to finished garment, emphasizing creative swatching and a lighthearted "what-if?" approach as the creative process begins, followed by solid documentation and detailed garment schematics as the design takes its final form. This is not a how-to-knit book. The author assumes her reader has the knitting skills required to put to good use in-depth information on design sources, yarn characteristics, working with silhouette and fit, and designing with stitch patterns, color, and graphics. Highly recommended. - Janice Zlendich, California State Univ. Lib., Fullerton

How one knit designer does her thing -- Here is a fascinating peek into the way one designer, Deb Newton, does her knitwear. Her designs are very recognizable--interesting stitch texture, shapes from couture. She even cuts and sews knitted "fabric" into garments. If you are an experienced knitter and want to design using those tempting stitch dictionary patterns, and if you like the fit and shape of garments to be tailored more than the standard raglan pullover, then this book is for you. The drawings are especially interesting, showing how Newton goes from swatches of yarns knitted in pattern, plus inspirations to a finished garment. If you want a "how to knit your own" sweaters for simpler knitting techniques, I don't recommend this book. You can knit your own sweaters using the percentage technique found in "Knitting Without Tears" or "Knitting Around" by Elizabeth Zimmermann, or you can try "The Sweater Workshop" by Jackie Fee. But if you want more high-fashioned, structured design, this book will be a great resource.

Fascinating glimpse into a designer's mind -- First, I would like to clear up a few misunderstandings about this book. The author does not trash dime store knitters. She simply states that she finds them to be part of the folk art land scape. However, her constant admonition throughout the book is to buy the best you can afford. You can't cook a gourmet meal with bargain basement ingredients, can you? Also, swatching is an absolutely essential part of the designing process. (Some designers even go so far as to suggest dedicating an entire ball of yarn to swatches) A designer who does not swatch will never know the full potential of a yarn. This is simply a fact. If you don't like swatching (and I don't) the author offers alternatives. However, she makes her swatches so pretty that I am almost tempted to change my mind. The author offers her design system so that [novice] designers can borrow some or all of it until we come up with our own. The system is methodical and seems a great deal of fun. We find inspiration, find a yarn and swatch swatch swatch. I hope everyone will give this book a fair chance. Knitters are artists and artists are not helped by being thin skinned or afraid to try something new. AS noted by other reviewers, this book is not for the total beginner. You are expected to be knowledgable of basic knitting techniques as well as fibers etc.

Reviews:

Good with the bad -- First, the good: there is a lot of information here about different fibers, explanations of silhouettes, ease, and different styles that is very helpful. There are tips on sketching and charting your own designs, as well as structural details of different styles, e.g. set-in sleeves, saddle shoulders. Much of the information is opinionated, but the author usually explains her reasoning. The bad: I found many of her technical explanations incomplete and/or difficult to follow (and I've been knitting for about 10 years). I also found the many (many, many) self-gratulating personal references a bit tiresome. 'This is how I do this,' 'I like to do that,' 'Let me tell you all about a perfectly brilliant design idea I had one day while waiting for the bus,' etc. Somehow I got the impression the author has an air of superiority, as if to say her way is NATURALLY the best way, if not the only way. Maybe this irritated me more because I disliked most of her designs and thought them all but unwearable. If you're into 'haute couture' or 'wearable art,' you might enjoy them more; I prefer to design garments which are more subtle.... or, as she might say, 'bland and pedestrian.' (If that means saying "No" to big bulky coats knitted of fuzzy chartreuse mohair, complete with giant buttons, then color me bland and pedestrian.) Bottom line: For the technical and structural elements of design, this book is worth looking into, but I'm still looking for a better knitting design book.

Inspirational -- I am only a beginning knitter but I've checked this book out of the library several times in the past couple of years. The photos are gorgeous; even the pictures of swatches are eye-candy. This is not a book of patterns, rather, it is a sort of 'how-to' book for design inspiration using various sources; old photographs, coutour fashion, sewing patterns, and of course beautiful yarns and fibers. Don't pass this up if you are not ready to design your own knits. It will inspire you to keep knitting and treat yourself to some gorgeous yarns even if it is only one skein to make swatches from. This book is as much about the process, or journey as it is about the finished product. I was tickled the first time I checked out the book and discovered the author was from Rhode Island. Since then, I've wondered if she still lives here and holds workshops. The first book I bought to learn how to design -- I worked very hard on a child's lace-trimmed sweater from a pattern only to be very disappointed by the result. The dropped shoulders had no shaping and a clumsy-looking knitted seam, the back rode up, and the button band was too narrow to control the curl of the edge. That was when I thought, "I could do better than this." I decided to start designing my own stuff. "Designing Knitwear" has a lot to offer someone who wants to design their own knitwear. Newton's ideas are inspiring. I don't particularly like the majority of projects she gives directions for, but I learned a lot about the design process from her, and about producing looks that are way beyond the run-of-the-mill. One thing I don't like about the book is that Newton takes the sewing approach, with the flat-knit pieces sewn together, the edges sewn on, etc. I like to keep sewing to a minimum in knitted garments.

A way but not THE way... -- This book is loaded with many great ideas and a good design method, but I had hoped, from the title, that it would include some ideas and methods used by other designers. "How I Design Knitwear" would be a more appropriate title. And how she serves anyone by trashing synthetic yarns and craft fair knitters and a another designer who doesn't (gasp!) swatch is beyond me. She is a good writer and teacher and designer, and I don't regret stepping over the trash to get to the many treasures. Good book for would-be designers -- This book is really interesting to read, and has several projects in it, so you can easily see how she designs things. My only complaint is her reference to the "dime store" school of knitting, referring to those who knit with the inexpensive acrylics rather than natural fibers or very costly acrylics. This is a good book for later on down the line, not for beginners. NOT your run-of-the-mill knitting book -- I rarely review a book that has several well-written reviews already, but was tempted to add my voice about this book at a time when those who are looking for a good gift for knitters may be abroad in Amazon.com-land. I also have been a knitter for Lo these many years (about 30) and have perused many knitting books and magazines. And I have several knitting friends, some real fanatics, some just beginners. I personally love this book and wholeheartedly agree with some of the other reviewers that it is the most imaginative book about knitting that I have ever come across. However, a word of caution: having spent time in the company of other knitters, I know that I am pretty much a maverick, at the far, wild end of the bell curve. There are a lot of knitters out there, some extremely technically advanced (far more than I) who simply would not know what to do with this book. So, if your target knitter follows patterns to the letter, even if your target knitter can execute Kaffe Fassett designs, if they are color-inside-the-lines type of knitter, it might be better to give them (as I have done to several of my knitting friends) "The Big Book of Knitting" by Katharina Buss, which, I have found, is mightily appreciated even by those who have an extensive knitting library. However, if your knitter is bored, bored, bored, even by the most intricate classical designs, then "Designing Knitwear" might just light their fire. I agree with the reviewer who said that "Designing Knitwear" is not for beginning knitters. So, if your knitter is just learning how to knit, purl, do stockinette stitch, it might be better to choose another book, for now at least. I have to say, though, if you know or are a maverick knitter, you will LOVE "Designing Knitwear". One of the patterns is for a white-on-white three-piece shawl that is absolutely stunning and yet so incredibly simple to make. This is the type of stylish "shawl" that I would have loved to have seen in the collection of shawls in "Shawls and Scarves: the Best of Knitter's Magazine". But hey, that's me. There's room in the world for all knitters, from perfectionist chart-followers to free-form-let's-just-see-what-happens. Happy knitting!

A beautiful and inspiring book for advanced knitters -- Having just learned knitting, I probably got in over my head when I bought this book. Her designs are very imaginative and the book is very instructive -- plenty of graphics -- but there's not much for a beginner. Fantastic design book! -- Wonderful book that covers many topics not traditionally discussed in knitting books. She provides not only tips but information on when to use certain knitting techniques. Clear with good pictures. Best used in conjunction with a good basic knitting book. A wonderful inspiration for Hand and Machine Knitter -- This book is like having a personal teacher of your own. Deborah works thru fit and silhouettes, designing with different sts, color and themes. Dressmaking and finishing details really set off your garment. AND the pictures !! Lots of them with tons of beautiful color! A book I didn't want to put down.

Instructions for 16 finished garments -- Ten years ago, when I was a novice designer, the lack of available information on knitwear design frustrated me thoroughly. I searched for direction in numerous knitting books but found only decriptions of standard garment shapes and instructions for how many stitches to cast on for a given width. Although these guidelines were useful, I wanted much more information. What about the subtleties of fit? How to shape a complicated garment? How to use color successfully? And, as elusive to me as anything, wehre do ideas and inspiration come from? Armed with these questions, I began investigating design on my own, starting with simple shapes and plain fabrics. Because I was very interested in knitting techniques, my early projects were often inspired by traditional knitted garments. I also became interested in knitted designs from the past and collected them for inspiration for detail and silhouette. As time passed and I became more adept, I began to refer to books beyond the realm of knitting. Books about drawing helped me understand color relationships. Studying illustrations in all kinds of books helped me develoop my cartoon-like sketching style. Books on embroidery offered inspiration for new patterns. Books on sewing helped me learn about garment construction and shaping. I also began to look closely at all kinds of clothing, from garments in fashion magazines to historical pieces in museum collections to vintage and ethnic clothing. From all these sources, I adapted garment shapes and details to use in my knitwear designs, testing new ideas with new projects.