Couture Sewing Techniques

Couture Sewing Techniques

by: Claire B. Shaeffer

Topics include: Claire B. Shaeffercouture workrooms, traced seamlines, applied welt, ease basting, muslin toile, welt lining, binding seamline, nylon crinoline, softly padded surface, vertical seamlines, fly placket, intersecting seamline, even basting, diagonal basting, most couture houses, pleat underlay, couture skirts, many couture houses, armscye seamline, tambour hook, align the seamlines, double baste, slot zipper, bound slit, front interfacing

Book Description:

Editorial Reviews From School Library Journal From the workrooms of world fashion, including Dior, Chanel, and Givenchy, the secrets of couture craft are detailed, enabling home sewers to refine their skills. Shaeffer, author of many sewing titles, focuses on the fine construction techniques of haute couture and reviews hand stitching, making pleats or finished pockets, shaping a perfect fit, producing flawless finishing, and creating beautiful embellishments and closures. Special attention is given to creating couture jackets, coats, and evening wear. Photographs of fashions and drawings of techniques accompany the text. Not for beginning sewers, this title is for libraries serving those interested in studying and re-creating the art and science of haute couture. (Glossary, bibliography, sources of supply, index, and metric conversion chart not seen.)-Judith Yankielun Lind, Roseland Free P.L., N.J. Copyright Reed Business Information, Inc.

Book Description -- Starting with hand sewing - the basis for every haute couture garment - expert Claire Shaeffer guides the reader through the steps to turn the ordinary into the extraordinary. She presents the sewing techniques practiced in the studios of such legendary designers as Dior, Chanel, Givenchy, and Balenciaga. Detailed instructions and illustrations make high style a snap.

Emphasis on "couture" precisely defined, not for fainthearte -- This is truly a wonderful book for those ready to step beyond "speed sewing" and rotary cutting to creating beautiful garments with exquisit finishing. I've been sewing for 40 years and never knew how different couture sewing techniques are from those the rest of us commonly use. As precisely used in this text the word "haute couture" only applies to those 20 or so designer houses in France who meet certain strict standards regulated by the government. Fascinating! This is a book to read and study, lots of carefully detailed text and good photographs of haute couture designs and finishing techniques. Did you know there are at least five different hand basting stitches and even more permanent hand sewing stitches for garment construction? Did you know couture houses don't use paper patterns? That their seam allowances are usually at least one inch wide? That most of their basting is done from the RIGHT side of the garment? That most seam edges are finished by hand -- even into the curve clips? That most garments are constructed entirely by hand? That steaming, shrinking and molding garment sections by pressing are as important to the shaping process as the sewing? And I'm not just talking about pressing seams open here. Wow! And I thought I knew how to sew. While other books may use "couture" in their titles this book means it. While I've said this isn't for the fainthearted anyone who sews clothing will find some new and accessible technique here. Grab it, keep it near your sewing machine and if you only add one new technique with each project your skill, pride and satisfaction in your work will grow immensely.

Not just pretty pictures -- Though there are wonderful pictures of couture garments, this is a how-to book. It is filled with detailed instruction and many easy to follow diagrams. "Haute Couture" is defined, and the chapter "Inside the World of Haute Couture" will be of interest to anyone who loves sewing or clothing. Then she goes on to discuss many couture techniques and applies them to a number of garments that any intermediate sewer could duplicate. This is how you get from intermediate to advanced! The best book I've found for information on women's tailoring, and it includes my favorite reference when someone asks me how to make bound buttonholes. If you want to take your sewing to the next level, get this book in your library.

Reviews:

A bit disappointing -- After hearing so much regarding this book from peers and followers of Ms. Shaeffer, I was disappointed to find the book offers little in terms of true couture technique -- it seems more of an abridged edition of some of the more complete sewing technique manuals. I am hard-pressed to find anything in this volume that I could not have learned in other, more well-rounded guides, and to top it off, several of the techniques and ALL of the stylings in this book are out dated. As other reviewers have mentioned, several of the techniques are not accompanied with pictures, and the instructions for some techniques are difficult to understand even with illustration (unless you already understand the techniques -- then why purchase this book?) I'd purchased this in hopes to add some new techniques to my repertoire, and being that I've already studied seamstressing for many years, I thought this was the ideal place to begin. I was wrong, and regret spending my money on a small volume containing no information I couldn't have found in greater detail on the internet for free.

A Fine Finish -- I have encountered a good deal of frustration in learning to sew because it seems that most of the books available focus on sewing things fast and taking shortcuts. Given that one can buy inexpensive, fashionable clothes at Target or Ross Dress for Less, my focus in sewing is to make clothes that are better than what I can afford to buy. If you want to take the time to give your clothes the best possible finish inside and out, this is the book. The instructions are clearly written. The only draw-back to some readers might be that the book is written in narrative form. Use a hilighter while you read so you can easily find the techniques you want to use. Also, the techniques are sometimes not illustrated.

A truly wonderful book -- Having tried to find books for advanced home and hobby sewers in German (almost impossible), I came across this book, and have never regretted buying it a single second. And having aimed at perfecting my skills with regard to creating wardrobe, I was amazed about how little I have known so far. Why could I not find such book a lot earlier!! Even while browsing through it, a lot of questions that I had always had were simply solved by reading instructions, and by the conciseness of the illustrations. My only - personal - problem is that the language is quite technical, and at worst, I have to read with a dictionary by my side, as my English is not so advanced on technical discussion level, but all of Ms Shaeffers instructions are self-explanatory and very precise. I strongly recommend this book to anyone ready for a new challenge in spicing up their wardrobes. And yes, even if you 'only' use the odd trick here and there, your clothes will start looking different - much more professional - as you start paying more and more attention to little details, and learn to avoid mistakes by focusing on how something should really look like - not that I wasn't focused on what I was doing before, but this is like the difference between your first watercolours and your first picture in an exhibition. Thank you, Ms Shaeffer, for taking the time to write this absolutely, truly, wonderful book, and keeping good traditions alive.

Exactly what I was looking fo -- I wanted to learn what differentiates a haute couture garment from a ready-to-wear garment or a garment custom-made by a seamstress or tailor. Then, I wanted to know HOW to incorporate couture quality into a custom garment. This book gives just enough history of the haute couture industry and a very detailed description of haute couture processes. The numerous hand stiches are explained in detail, along with where to use each stitch and which threads are appropriate. The first section of the book explains the couture process and techniques in detail. In addition to the above, it includes garment shaping, edge finishes and closures. The author also references techniques common to home sewing, but does not waste time describing them since they are readily available in other sewing books. The remainder of the book describes examples of different garment types and gives construction and fitting techniques unique to each type of garment. Each page is an education and the illustrations (photographs and artwork) are well selected to illustrate the techniques and results. With the anecdotal information the author provides, it's like a virtual field trip. This book is a pleasure to read and a gold mine of information.

Emphasis on "couture" precisely defined, not for fainthearted -- This is truly a wonderful book for those ready to step beyond "speed sewing" and rotary cutting to creating beautiful garments with exquisit finishing. I've been sewing for 40 years and never knew how different couture sewing techniques are from those the rest of us commonly use. As precisely used in this text the word "haute couture" only applies to those 20 or so designer houses in France who meet certain strict standards regulated by the government. Fascinating! This is a book to read and study, lots of carefully detailed text and good photographs of haute couture designs and finishing techniques. Did you know there are at least five different hand basting stitches and even more permanent hand sewing stitches for garment construction? Did you know couture houses don't use paper patterns? That their seam allowances are usually at least one inch wide? That most of their basting is done from the RIGHT side of the garment? That most seam edges are finished by hand -- even into the curve clips? That most garments are constructed entirely by hand? That steaming, shrinking and molding garment sections by pressing are as important to the shaping process as the sewing? And I'm not just talking about pressing seams open here. Wow! And I thought I knew how to sew. While other books may use "couture" in their titles this book means it. While I've said this isn't for the fainthearted anyone who sews clothing will find some new and accessible technique here. Grab it, keep it near your sewing machine and if you only add one new technique with each project your skill, pride and satisfaction in your work will grow immensely.