The A-Z Guide to Sewing Machines: Buttonholes

Different machines have different methods of making buttonholes so it's hard to generalize. I have explained some of the more common methods below.

MANUAL BUTTONHOLES

These tend to occur on older swing needle machines. With this type of buttonhole the fabric needs to be turned after one side of the buttonhole has been stitched.

AUTOMATIC BUTTONHOLES

There are various types:

• Four-step buttonholes

With a four-step buttonhole each phase is activated separately and is normally stitched as follows:

1 left side

2 bar tack

3 right side

4 second bar tack

• Two-step buttonholes

In this case the buttonhole is stitched as follows:

1 sews one side and one bar tack

2 sews the other side and bar tack

• One-step buttonholes

The most up-to-date and often more expensive machines sew this kind of buttonhole. The complete buttonhole is sewn in one operation and in most cases the size of the buttonhole is dictated by the size of the button you place in the buttonhole foot.

When sewing an automatic buttonhole where the machine is sewing one side of the buttonhole forwards and the other side of the buttonhole backwards, the density of the stitches vary from side to side. When you know your machine well, you can compensate for this by adjusting the stitch length for one side of the buttonhole to even it up.

CORDED BUTTONHOLES

On some machines the buttonhole foot has a hook on the back of the foot and grooves on the underside of the foot (fig. 31). On others the hook is on the buttonhole shoe (fig. 32).

To make a corded buttonhole, place a length of thin cord under the foot, around the hook and back under the foot again. Sew the buttonhole in the usual manner, but don't hold the cord whilst sewing (fig. 33). Remove the fabric from the machine and pull the two ends of the cord to eliminate the loop formed (fig. 34). (This loop will reinforce the buttonhole so have it at the end which gets the most wear).

A corded buttonhole is used on thicker fabrics. It is bolder and gives a more tailored look to the garment. It can be used on suits and coats, etc.

If a very thin cord is used corded buttonholes can be sewn on stretch fabrics. It helps to prevent the buttonhole from stretching.

For Rouleau button loops see under Rouleau.

TIPS FOR PRODUCING A GOOD BUTTONHOLE

• Always use your buttonhole foot.

• Always make a test buttonhole on a double thickness piece of the fabric being used.

• Always start with the bottom buttonhole on a garment.

• Always cut the buttonhole after stitching.

• On some thick or loosely woven fabrics it may be necessary to stitch round the buttonhole twice.

• If you are not sure whether to make horizontal or vertical buttonholes it's probably safer to make horizontal ones.

• Vertical buttonholes are normally only used on loose fitting garments, because they tend to come undone if there is any strain on them.

• A buttonhole generally looks neater if an interfacing has been used between the two layers of fabric.

• When cutting the buttonhole place a pin across the far end of the buttonhole and slit open with a stitch unpick (fig. 35). This way the pin prevents you overcutting and slicing through the bar tack!

Fig. 31 (Left) Cord placed around the hook on a buttonhole foot, ready to sew a corded buttonhole.

Fig. 32 (Right) Cord in place ready for sewing a corded buttonhole using a buttonhole shoe.

Fig. 33 (Left) A corded buttonhole showing the cord loop.

Fig. 34 (Right) The cord is pulled to fit the buttonhole and the surplus cord is cut off close to the bar tack

Fig. 35 Place a pin across the far end of the buttonhole to prevent cutting through the bar tack!