The A-Z Guide to Sewing Machines: Stretch Fabric Sewing

Stretch fabrics are popular because the garments made from them are very comfortable to wear. The garment ‘gives’ so movement is unrestricted. Stretch fabrics are widely used in the manufacture of sportswear.

Stretch fabrics are knitted, rather than woven and they require special treatment when they are sewn on the sewing machine.

TO SEW STRETCH FABRICS

1. Always use a ball point needle. These needles are available in different thicknesses and again the weight of the fabric is matched to the size of the needle. The finer the fabric, the thinner the needle. A ball point needle has a rounded tip which passes between the knit ted fibers rather than piercing through them and eliminates the possibility of ‘ladders’ running from the seam line.

2. Use stretch stitches (see under Stitches) when sewing stretch garments. These stitches have a degree of elasticity and allow the seam to ‘give’ with the fabric when the garment is worn. (If normal straight stitching is used it will restrict the movement of the garment and will eventually break when the garment is stretched. The seams will then come undone.) If you don't have stretch stitches on your machine try using a very narrow zigzag stitch instead of a normal straight stitch to sew up the seam. This will allow the seam to stretch when necessary.

3. All sideways sewn stitches e.g. zigzag or stretch overlock stitch, should be sewn using a stretch stitch foot on your machine. This foot looks like a general purpose zigzag foot, but it has a small raised bar running down the middle of the foot. The stitches are sewn over the bar which makes them slightly looser so that they are able to stretch with the fabric.

4. Always reduce the pressure on the foot (see under Pressure Control). The fabric needs to pass smoothly under the foot without being stretched to avoid wavy seams.

5. Some stretch fabrics, usually those which have a dense shiny tex hire, prove very difficult to sew on the machine. The needle tends to bounce off the fibers without picking up the bobbin thread. Try using a perfect stitch needle, and if you have the facility to move the position of your needle, move it so that the stitches are sewn as close to the foot as possible. (Turn the balance wheel manually first, to check that the needle clears the foot.) When sewing a stretch straight stitch the straight stitch foot may help.

6. The stitch quality is better if you use a thread to match your fabric e.g. a polyester thread on a man-made fabric.

SPECIAL EFFECTS ON STRETCH FABRICS

Sewing a decorative hem

The stretchy nature of stretch fabrics can at times be used to advantage e.g. a decorative ‘frilly’ hem can be produced by stretching the fabric as it passes under the foot whilst stitching is in progress. (See under Lettuce Hem)

Appliqué on stretch fabric

When applying a woven fabric onto a knitted fabric the knitted fabric needs to be stabilized to prevent it from stretching. Hand tack a piece of stitch-and-tear vilene to the wrong side of the knitted fabric where the appliqué is to be worked. Then follow the instructions for appliqué. (See under Appliqué)

Machine embroidery on stretch fabrics

Machine embroidery can look very effective on stretch fabrics. Choose fabrics which are dense and have a smooth surface. Again, the fabric will need to be stabilized by hand tacking stitch-and-tear vilene to the wrong side to prevent it stretching whilst stitching the machine embroidery. (A hoop isn't necessary when using stitch and -tear vilene.)

Overlocking stretch fabrics

An overlocker is ideal for seaming and neatening manufactured stretch fabrics. It can also be used with success on hand and machine knitting. (See under Overlockers)