The A-Z Guide to Sewing Machines: Difficult Fabrics

TO SEW VERY FINE FABRICS

When sewing straight stitch on very fine fabrics the fabric is apt to be taken down through the needle plate, thus jamming the machine. It often helps to change to a straight stitch foot (fig. 43) and straight stitch needle plate (fig. 44).

Both of these have a small circular hole in them rather than a wide oval aperture. You may also need to increase the pressure by turning to a higher number on the pressure control. Also use a short stitch length, as a stitch which is too long will cause the fabric to pucker. Do not forget to use a fine needle, and always sew on a double thickness of fabric when testing the stitch.

If you have changed to a straight stitch foot and needle plate it's advisable to change back as soon as your stitching is completed. Never put the machine away with them on, as you may forget and turn to zig-zag. The needle will break and the needle plate will be scored.

When neatening a raw edge on a fine fabric use three step zig-zag stitch to prevent the edge from curling up and forming a ridge. If the fabric is very fine a French seam may be more appropriate (see under Seams).

Fig. 43 A straight stitch foot with central hole

Fig.44 A straight stitch needle plate

TO SEW SLIPPERY FABRICS

You can sew on slippery fabrics more easily by using a roller or walking foot. These are also useful for sewing two different fabrics together, e.g. velvet and satin, as the feet help to feed the fabrics evenly through the machine (i.e. at the same rate). Some machines also have stick-on Teflon feet which are stuck on the bottom of the foot. These Teflon stickers help to grip slippery fabrics, and are also useful for sewing plastic coated fabrics and imitation leathers.

TO SEW LEATHER

Leather can sometimes ‘stick’ to the needle plate. To help it through the machine lay a strip of Stitch-and-Tear Vilene under the leather, and it may also be necessary to place another strip on the top of the leather to lay directly under the foot. The leather then passes freely through the machine and the Vilene tears away after stitching. Remember to use a leather needle and to lengthen the stitch.

TO SEW STRETCH FABRICS

Always loosen off the pressure control (turn to a lower number) when sewing stretch fabrics. This will eliminate the fabric being stretched as it passes under the foot which can cause ‘wavy’ seams. Take care not to pull or push the fabric through the machine. Use a synthetic thread and a ball point needle, and always sew with a stretch stitch. If your machine doesn't have stretch stitches, use a very narrow zig-zag stitch instead of a straight stitch for the seams. This will give the seams some elasticity. Some modern stretch fabrics are especially difficult to sew, mainly the silky ones: the needle tends to bounce off the fabric. Try adjusting the tension and experiment with different types and thicknesses of thread until you achieve a satisfactory seam. A new needle or a perfect stitch needle will often help. If your machine is the type which allows for several needle positions move your needle nearer to the edge of the foot. Note that this is only applicable when sewing straight stretch stitch.

TO SEW VELCRO

Even though Velcro isn't exactly a fabric it can be difficult to sew. The soft side is sewn as normal, but the side with the stiff hooks is a little more difficult. Try sewing it on with a zig-zag stitch, just catching the edge of the Velcro. It is often easier to sew if the pressure is reduced (see under Pressure Control). If you are fastening an overlap with Velcro always stitch the soft piece of Velcro to the back of the overlap, and the stiff piece to the front of the underlap. The stitching on the back of the soft piece always looks neater.