Home Workshop Techniques: Setting up to Work

The professional-caliber workshop, filled with stationary power tools and fine woodworking benches, is a dream for many do-it-yourselfers. However, most home repair tasks can be undertaken safely and effectively with a selection of good hand and portable power tools in a modest basement or garage workshop. The basic workshop at right illustrates the main features of any good shop: adequate lighting and ventilation, a safe, dependable supply of electrical power, sturdy and versatile work surfaces, well-organized storage units and essential safety devices; the inventory below shows some of the accessory tools and supplies needed. More important than the size or layout of your workshop is your ability to marshall its many resources when you set up for a repair project; you will need to choose not only the best tools, but the best work surface, lighting and ventilation. A safe, well-organized job setup is the key to good work; it ensures that you can handle your tools and materials comfortably and properly, and work with care and precision.

The first requirement for any job is to choose a work surface. A stationary worktable, a utility vise, a portable workbench, a pair of sawhorses and an assortment of C-clamps provide a good range of options for holding most workpieces. Choose the surface or combination of surfaces large and sturdy enough to hold your workpiece securely—that also permits you to work comfortably and safely. Ensure that the work area is well-lit. There should be bright overhead light; for precision tasks, also use direct, focused light on your workpiece and tools. To use a power tool far from an outlet, choose an extension cord that is properly rated for the job. Before plugging in a power tool or extension cord, check that the outlet can provide sufficient power and has ground-fault protection. Ensure that the workshop is adequately ventilated—for both your comfort and safety. If you are using a material or substance that is flammable or emits hazardous vapors, work outdoors, if possible. If you must work indoors, ensure a supply of fresh air by opening windows and doors to the outdoors and setting up a sturdy fan to direct vapors out of the workshop.

Always wear the appropriate safety gear for the job. To handle sharp, rough, dirty or hazardous materials, wear gloves. For work that creates dust or flying debris or when there is a risk of a chemical splash, wear safety goggles; if necessary, also a face shield. For work with noisy power tools, use hearing protection. With dust-creating cutting, grinding, drilling or sanding tools or chemicals that emit hazardous vapors, use respiratory protection.

After completing a job, take the time to store all your tools and supplies properly, accessible and in good condition for the next job. Storage options are practically limitless; cabinets, shelves, boxes, bins and containers of every size, shape and description are sold at most hardware stores and building supply centers, and can be used in imaginative combinations to organize your materials. Clean the workshop thoroughly, properly disposing of hazardous refuse. Keep the workshop locked when it's not in use.

Safety cabinet: Locking metal cabinet to store flammable and poison substances away from heat, ignition sources and sunlight. Place in a cool, dry location; keep locked as childproofing measure.

Personal safety gear: Protective gear for hands, eyes and ears along with gear for respiratory protection stored in sealed plastic bags and hung in accessible location for easy retrieval when starting work.

ABC fire extinguisher: For extinguishing small electrical, chemical or wood fires. Install in strategic location near an exit and within 10 feet of stored lumber and hazardous chemicals; ensure you know how to use it.

Utility vise: Strong steel jaws hold small work- pieces securely while working; bolted to worktable for maximum stability.

Outlet: Grounded 110-volt outlets on 15- or 20-amp circuits separate from other household circuits. Should be protected by ground-fault circuit interrupters (GFCIs) installed in service panel or plugged into outlet.

Worktable: Sturdy, hip-high wooden table 5 to 7 feet long and 2 to 3 feet wide provides working surface for repair tasks. Thick top withstands weight of heavy workpieces and force of tools used; extended edges permit clamping. Secure to wall or floor for maximum stability; keep clean and free of clutter.

Tool hanger panel: To store frequently- used hand tools and accessories safe from impact and easily accessible. Perforated hardboard panel mounted with 1/2-inch clearance from wall; fitted with hooks and hangers to support tools securely.

Drawer: To store small precision hand tools safe from dust, humidity and impact. Wall-mounted unit of small drawers good for storing small supplies and materials.

Trash can: Metal trash can with tight-fitting lid; keep one for ordinary combustibles such as wood, paper and sawdust, and another one for hazardous substances such as oil- or chemical-soaked rags or paper and empty chemical containers.

Portable workbench: Commercially-available workbench provides sturdy work surface for small or medium-sized workpieces; easily transported to remote locations. Model shown has adjustable height and variety of clamping devices. Fold up flat and hang on wall to store.

Sawhorse: Pair of sturdy factory- built sawhorses 42 inches wide and 28 inches high support workpieces for hand-sawing; can also be set up as temporary worktable. For occasional use, assemble sawhorses from 2-by-4s and brackets.

Broom: Stiff-bristled push broom for sweeping up debris from workshop floor; soft-bristled whisk broom for sweeping up dust and debris from work surfaces.

Shop vacuum: A heavy-duty vacuum cleaner designed to aspirate wet or dry material; many models available. Follow owner’s manual instructions to use and maintain properly.

INVENTORY OF TOOLS and SUPPLIES

C clamp: To temporarily hold wood or metal workpieces to work surfaces for cutting, trimming or smoothing, or to each other for fastening. Available with 1-to 12- inch openings and regular or deep throats. Stock a variety of sizes.

Spring clamp: To temporarily hold light workpieces to work surfaces while working, or to each other for fastening. Available with 1-to 3-inch jaw openings. Keep a few pairs in different sizes on hand.

Work knife: All-purpose cutting and scraping tool for rough work.

Pliers: All-purpose tool for gripping, bending or pulling. Slip-joint (utility) pliers (top) with two opening widths used for most purposes— except for gripping or turning fasteners; locking pliers (center) with strong snap-lock jaws used to grip and pull or turn. Objects such as rusted or stuck fasteners; long-nose pliers (bottom) with serrated, tapered jaws used to grip small objects in tight spaces. Store in accessible location.

Tweezers: For holding small delicate objects.

Cord: Stock a supply of rope, cord and string in different sizes to tie up and store, or hoist or haul supplies and materials.

Utility knife: For scoring and cutting thin sheet materials such as cardboard, plastic or veneer. Keep a stock of replaceable blades on hand.

Masking tape: Handy for temporary fastening, bunching and storing small objects, and labeling containers. Use duct tape similarly and for sealing joints.

Scissors: For cutting paper, cloth, string or cord.

Pencil: To mark workpieces for drilling, fastening, cutting or trimming. Keep several sharpened soft HB lead types on hand.

Lubricant: Keep several types on hand: light machine oil for moving tool parts; penetrating oil for stuck or rusted metal pieces and fasteners; graphite for frozen locks; silicone for moving parts, especially wood.

Compressed air: Canned air used to blow dust and debris Out of tool parts not accessible with brush or cloth; extension tube directs air stream where needed.

Funnel: To pour and transfer cleaners, solvents or finishing products.

Sponge: For applying cleaners or solvents. Stock a variety of sizes.

Steel wool: For applying cleaners or solvents, especially to metal objects and tool parts. Keep a variety of grades on hand.

Brush: All-purpose cleaning tool for wet scrubbing or dry brushing. Keep both stiff- and soft-bristled types on hand.

Clothing and protective coverings: Stock a supply of old clothes for messy work. Stock old sheets, newspapers, rolls of plastic sheeting and drop cloths to protect surfaces when applying finishing products or cutting, sanding, grinding or drilling.

Swabs and sticks: For applying cleaners, solvents and adhesives. Many sizes, shapes and types, including foam swabs, cotton swabs, toothpicks and wooden sticks.

Cloths: Keep a large stock on hand for applying cleaners, solvents, lubricants and finishing products, and for cleaning up.

CHOOSING A WORK SURFACE

Preparing to set up. The typical home repairs workshop contains a number of work surfaces on which basic measuring, cut ting, trimming, fastening and finishing tasks can be performed. One of the first requirements when setting up for any job in the workshop is to choose the best work surface: the one that ensures a safe, quality job with a minimum of frustration.

A good work surface is one large and strong enough to support the workpiece or pieces you are handling. The right surface should also enable you to hold the workpiece in a position and at a height suitable for properly operating the tools for the job. When a task requires the application of strong pressure or force, a work surface must be sturdy and stable enough to withstand it.

• The worktable. For precision work on small or medium-sized workpieces, the worktable is the best general choice (step below). A good, sturdy worktable is the right height for most chiseling, filing, routing, sanding, drilling or fastening, and making fine cuts with backsaws or coping saws. The worktable offers the possibility of setting up workpieces on it, above it, or overhanging the edge of it.

• The utility vise. For work on small workpieces, especially when filing, drilling, sanding or using small handsaws, a utility vise is ideal. The utility vise can hold a workpiece at a height suitable for doing precise work and is strong enough to withstand considerable force on the workpiece from any tool used.

• The portable workbench. For forceful work on small or medium-sized workpieces, such as when planing or cutting with large handsaws or power saws, a portable workbench is a good choice. The portable workbench is also the surface of choice when doing work outside the workshop. The bench on some models can be adjusted in height and a workpiece of any shape can be clamped to it securely using its vise jaws or swivel pegs.

• The sawhorse. For work on long workpieces, especially when sawing, sanding or finishing, a pair of sawhorses provides the best surface. Sawhorses can be assembled quickly and easily. When set up as a temporary worktable, a pair of sawhorses can also be used for many other jobs on large workpieces.

• The floor. For work on very large workpieces such as panels, especially when doing forceful jobs such as routing, power sanding or cutting with power saws, the floor is a viable work surface option. A workpiece can be securely set up on spacers to work on the floor.

SETTING UP ON A WORKTABLE

17 Securing a workpiece on the worktable surface. For access to opposite surfaces of the workpiece, secure it above the worktable surface; for access to an entire edge of it, secure it overhanging the worktable edge. For access to one surface of the workpiece, secure it completely supported on the worktable. Position the workpiece flat on the worktable, as close to an edge as possible.

To secure the workpiece on the worktable, use as many C clamps as necessary. To install a C clamp, fit it over the edge of the workpiece and under the edge of the worktable; positioning any shim to protect the workpiece surface or wood block to distribute pressure along it, ensure the C clamp is straight and tighten the screw by turning the T handle. Install as many C clamps as necessary the same way.

For unobstructed access to the entire surface of the workpiece, secure it between wood blocks clamped to the worktable. Position wood blocks slightly less thick than the workpiece along opposite edges of it. Butting each wood block in turn against the edge of the workpiece, use the same procedure to install as many C clamps as necessary to secure it in place (above, right). Or, if C-clamps obstruct access to the entire surface of the workpiece, secure each wood block by driving a nail through it and partway into the worktable.

18a Securing a workpiece above the worktable surface. For access to one surface of the workpiece, secure it on the worktable surface; for access to an entire edge of it, secure it overhanging the work table edge (step right). For access to opposite surfaces of the workpiece, secure it on spacers above the worktable surface. For spacers, use as many wood blocks as necessary of dimensions appropriate for the workpiece; ensure each spacer is the same thickness to keep the workpiece flat. Position the spacers flat on the worktable, then position the workpiece flat on them; if you are cutting the workpiece, position a spacer under it on each side of the cutting line. To secure the workpiece on the spacers, use as many C clamps as necessary; fit each C clamp over the edge of the workpiece at a spacer and under the edge of the worktable, then tighten the screw.

Securing a workpiece overhanging the worktable edge. For access to one surface of the workpiece, secure it on the worktable surface; for access to opposite surfaces of it, secure it above the workpiece surface (step left). For access to an entire edge of the workpiece, secure it overhanging the worktable edge. Position the workpiece flat on the worktable, overhanging it only as much as necessary; if you are cutting the workpiece, position the cutting line parallel to the edge of the worktable, overhanging it enough to keep from cutting it. To secure the workpiece on the worktable, use as many C clamps as necessary; fit each C clamp over an edge of the workpiece adjacent to the edge you are working on and under the edge of the worktable, then tighten the screw.

SETTING UP IN A UTILITY VISE

18b Securing a workpiece in a utility vise. Inspect a utility vise before using it, ensuring it's bolted securely to the worktable. Tighten any loose bolts. To check the jaws of the utility vise, open them by turning the T handle. If the jaw inserts are chipped, worn or otherwise damaged, don't use the utility vise; buy replacement jaw inserts and install them following the manufacturer’s instructions. If the utility vise is in good condition, set up the workpiece.

To set up workpiece in the utility vise, turn the T handle to open the jaws enough to position it between them; position a wood block on each surface of the workpiece to protect it, if necessary. Holding the workpiece and any wood blocks in the utility vise and butted against the stationary jaw, turn the T handle to close the movable jaw, stopping when the workpiece is held securely in place; avoid overtightening the jaws against it. If necessary, swivel the utility vise to position the workpiece at the best angle for the task; on the model shown, loosen each lock on the base using a wrench (inset), then swivel the utility vise and tighten each lock. Provide support under each end of a long workpiece to avoid straining the jaws of the utility vise.

SETTING UP ON A PORTABLE WORKBENCH

19a Unfolding a portable workbench. To set up a portable workbench, follow the owner’s manual instructions. With the model shown, place the workbench frame-down on the floor. Stand facing the front of the workbench, then reach under each side to grip the frame behind the adjusting handle. Use your thumbs to depress the locking buttons (inset), lifting slightly to release the frame. Reposition your hands to grip the front vise jaw and rest a foot on the foot board, then pull up (above, left) to lock the frame into place. For most cutting using a saw, leave the workbench at this height. To raise the height of the workbench for tasks such as planing, filing or drilling, set the workbench onto its back and unfold the collapsible legs (above, right); then, stand it upright.

19b Securing a workpiece between the vise jaws. Unfold the workbench (step above). If the workpiece is too wide or thin to be secured between the vise jaws of the workbench, se cure it between swivel pegs. To secure the workpiece between the vise jaws of the workbench, turn each adjusting handle to open the jaws enough to position it between them. Holding the workpiece centered between the jaws and butted against the stationary jaw, turn each adjusting handle in turn to close the movable jaw, stopping when the workpiece is held securely in place (left, top); avoid over- tightening the jaws against it. It the workpiece is irregularly shaped, secure it between the jaws of the workbench using the same procedure, turning each adjusting handle in turn to close the movable jaw at an angle against it (left, bottom). Provide support under each end of a long workpiece to keep the workbench from tipping over.

20a Securing a workpiece between swivel pegs. Unfold the workbench. If the workpiece is too wide or thin to be secured between the vise jaws, secure it between swivel pegs. To secure the workpiece between swivel pegs, turn each adjusting handle to open the jaws enough to position opposite edges of it completely flat on them. Centering the workpiece, fit swivel pegs along the opposite edges of it into the nearest holes in the jaws; install an equal number of swivel pegs along each edge, one directly opposite another. Then, turn the adjusting handles to close the jaws (above, left), stopping when the workpiece is held securely in place between the swivel pegs; avoid overtightening the swivel pegs against it. If the workpiece is irregularly shaped, secure it using the same procedure, fitting swivel pegs into place along opposite edges of it (above, right), then turning the adjusting handles to close the jaws. Provide support under each end of a long workpiece to keep the workbench from tipping over.

SETTING UP ON SAWHORSES

20b Assembling a sawhorse. Use sawhorses to support a workpiece or as a temporary worktable. In general, buy and keep two sturdy factory-built sawhorses for the workshop—each with a saddle about 42 inches long for supporting 4-by-8 sheets and an overall height of about 28 inches for com fort when sawing.

For occasional use, assemble sawhorses of the same or other dimensions using commercially- available sawhorse brackets and 2-by-4s, following the manufacturer’s instructions. For the model shown, first assemble a pair of legs, fitting two 2-by-4s of the same length into the base of each bracket (inset). Then, assemble the saddle, fitting one end of a 2-by-4 into the top of the bracket on one pair of legs, then the other end of it into the top of the bracket on the other pair of legs . To fasten the sawhorse assembly, drive screws through the bracket holes into the legs and the saddle; for added stability, install a brace mid way down the outside edge on each pair of legs. Use the same procedure to assemble a second sawhorse.

21a Securing a workpiece on sawhorses. Assemble sawhorses, if necessary. Stand the sawhorses on a solid, flat surface, positioning them parallel to each other at a distance slightly less than the length of the workpiece from each other. Set the workpiece flat on the sawhorses , ensuring it overhangs them by about the same amount at each end; if it's wider than the sawhorses, also ensure it's centered on them. Position the workpiece so that any cutting line on it overhangs the outside edge of a sawhorse—a distance of 6 inches is usually enough to avoid cutting the sawhorse. Adjust the position of the sawhorses as necessary until they are stable and the workpiece is well-balanced on them. If the workpiece sags in the center, move the sawhorses closer together under it; if the workpiece sags at the ends, move the saw- horses farther apart.

21b Using sawhorses as a temporary worktable. Assemble sawhorses, if necessary. Stand the sawhorses on a solid, flat surface, positioning them parallel to each other; for a work surface, use plywood strong enough to support the workpiece. Set the plywood flat on the sawhorses, ensuring it's centered and over hanging them by about the same amount of each end. Adjust the position of the sawhorses as necessary until they are stable and the plywood is well-balanced on them. If the ply wood sags in the center, move the sawhorses closer together under it; if the plywood sags at the ends, move the sawhorses farther apart. When the sawhorses are stable and the ply wood is well-balanced, drive screws through the plywood into the saddle of each sawhorse; or, use C clamps to secure the plywood on the sawhorses.

When the temporary worktable is assembled, secure the workpiece as you would on any other worktable. In the instance shown, secure the workpiece on spacers above the worktable surface. For spacers, use as many wood blocks as necessary of dimensions appropriate for the workpiece; en sure each spacer is of the same thickness to keep the workpiece flat. Position the spacers flat on the worktable, then position the workpiece flat on them and use as many C clamps as necessary to secure it .

SETTING UP ON THE FLOOR

22a Setting a workpiece onto spacers on the floor. For work on large panels or very large boards, the floor is often a convenient work surface. Choose a flat area of the floor that is clean and dry for setting the workpiece onto spacers on it. For spacers, use as many wood blocks as necessary of dimensions appropriate for the workpiece; ensure each spacer is of the same thickness to keep the workpiece flat—2-by-4s longer than the width of the workpiece set down on their widest surface are usually sufficient. Position the spacers flat on the floor parallel to each other, then position the workpiece flat on them, working with a helper, if necessary ; if you are cuffing the workpiece, position a spacer under it on each side of the cutting line (inset). Adjust the position of the spacers as necessary until the workpiece is stable and well-balanced on them; if necessary, add spacers under the workpiece.

USING C CLAMPS

22b 1. Choosing a C clamp. To hold a work- piece securely in position, hold together pieces for drilling or installing fasteners, or hold tool accessories such as cutting guides or miter boxes, use a C clamp for any span up to 12 inches. Choose the right size and type of clamp for the job. C clamps are available in different sizes with reaches from 1 to 12 inches; choose a type with a reach slightly greater than the combined thickness of the materials to be clamped—a 6-inch carriage type is usually sufficient. For extended clamping reach away from the edge of the materials, use deep-throated clamps. Use C clamps of the right material for the job: malleable iron or drop-forged steel for most jobs; aluminum for very light jobs.

Inspect a C clamp carefully before using it. If the frame is bent or cracked or the shoe does not swivel freely in its socket, discard the clamp. Turn the T handle of the C clamp in each direction; the screw should turn smoothly with it, moving the shoe toward or away from the foot. To lubricate the screw, apply a few drops of light machine oil, then wipe off any excess using a clean cloth.

23 2. Installing a C clamp. To install a C-clamp, ensure that the materials to be clamped are in position and aligned with each other, then turn the T handle enough to fit the jaws loosely across them. If one of the materials is less than 1 inch thick, use a thick, flat block of hardwood equal in length to the material to distribute the pressure of the C clamp evenly along it. Otherwise, use a thin, flat block of wood as a shim to keep the foot (inset) or shoe of the C clamp from marking the materials. Holding the frame of the C clamp straight, turn the T handle to thread the screw through the hub until the shoe is securely in place. Install any other C clamps you need the same way, then tighten each one in turn a little at a time by hand; don't overtighten a C clamp or use a tool to apply turning force to it.

USING AN EXTENSION CORD

1 Choosing an extension cord. Always use an extension cord of the correct wire gauge for the power tool; never use a standard household extension cord. To determine the gauge, or size, of extension cord needed, find the amperage rating of the power tool. On its nameplate; then, estimate the length of extension cord you need. With this information, consult the chart (above) to determine which gauge of extension cord is appropriate. Never use an extension cord that is undersized, having a higher gauge number than recommended, and avoid working with a series of extension cords; the resulting voltage reduction can cause the power tool to overheat and eventually burn out. For a tool with a three-prong plug, use only a similar extension cord; never bend or remove the third, or grounding, prong of any plug. If you are working outdoors, choose an extension cord rated for outdoor use; if the electrical circuit you are using is not protected by a ground-fault circuit interrupter (GFCI), choose an extension cord with a built-in GFCI. Ensure that any extension cord you use is approved; check for the UL (Underwriters Laboratories) or CSA (Canadian Standards Association) label on it.

24a 2. Setting up an extension cord. Inspect an extension cord before using it. If the extension cord is worn or damaged, replace it; never splice an extension cord. If the extension cord is in good condition, check that the power tool is turned off, then plug it into the extension cord; if necessary, loop the power cord and the extension cord together loosely before plugging it in (above) to prevent it from disconnecting. Run the extension cord to the nearest wall outlet, keeping it away from areas of heavy foot traffic and clear of obstructions, water and heat. Plug in the extension cord safely (steps below).

3. Putting away an extension cord. Before unplugging an ex tension cord, ensure the power tool is turned off. Unplug the extension cord from the wall outlet, then unplug the power tool from it. don't twist an extension cord into a figure-8; it will eventually break. To put away an extension cord, use an extension cord hanger, snapping its plug into a slot, then winding it snugly around the frame (above, left) and snapping its receptacle into another slot. To put away an extension cord reel, turn the handle on the case to retract the extension cord (above, right), then hang the reel in a dry, cool place.

PLUGGING IN SAFELY

24b Checking grounding and load requirements. Ensure a power tool is rated electrically safe, checking its nameplate (above); it should be UL (Underwriters Laboratories) listed or GSA (Canadian Standards Association) approved. Also ensure the power tool is grounded or double-insulated. A grounded tool has a three-prong plug and may be marked “grounding required”; a double-insulated tool is marked ‘double insulated” and may bear the symbol shown. For a power tool or extension cord with a three-prong plug, use only a similar outlet; never bend or remove the third, or grounding, prong of a plug. Ensure that the out let, usually on a 15- or 20-ampere electrical circuit, can provide sufficient current for the power tool. Check the amperage rating of the power tool on its nameplate; if it's rated at 10 or more amperes, turn off any high current-drawing appliances operating on the electrical circuit. After ensuring that the electrical circuit is GFCI-protected (step right), plug in the power tool or extension cord.

Using a portable ground-fault circuit interrupter (GFCI). A GFCI provides protection against electrical shock by monitoring the flow of current in an electrical circuit; the moment an irregularity in the current is detected, the GFCI automatically shuts off the electrical circuit. A home built or wired before 1975 is unlikely to have GFCIs permanently installed. If you don't have GFCIs permanently installed, use a portable GFCI as a safety precaution at any outlet outdoors or in the workshop, basement, utility room, kitchen, bathroom or garage. Plug the GFCI into the outlet following the manufacturer’s instructions; after checking the grounding and load requirements of the power tool (step left), then plug the power tool or extension cord into the GFCI (above).

USING PERSONAL SAFETY GEAR

25a Using hand protection. To prevent burns, cuts and allergic reactions when handling sharp, rough or toxic materials, choose the correct type of gloves . Use household rubber gloves or disposable vinyl gloves only for light cleaning with household deter gents; for other tasks, use stronger gloves. For light-duty handling of workshop tools and materials, use cotton gloves. For heavy-duty handling of rough or sharp pieces of wood, metal or masonry or when handling pressure-treated wood, use leather work gloves. When handling or applying finishes, solvents, adhesives or paint strippers, use neoprene rubber gloves; however, since no rubber can withstand all chemicals, always check with the retailer or manufacturer to be sure that the gloves can be used for protection against a particular chemical. To apply a chemical with an abrasive such as steel wool, wear cotton gloves on top of neoprene rubber gloves. Choose a glove that fits snugly, permitting a good grip without restricting hand movement; as a general rule, don't wear gloves to operate a power tool. Ensure that the gloves extend beyond your wrists; for extra protection when working with chemicals, choose gloves with elasticized cuffs or gauntlets with extended cuffs. Inspect the gloves before using them; if they are worn or torn, replace them.

25b Using eye and face protection. To prevent an eye injury from flying dust or debris or a chemical splash, wear safety goggles; if the risk of injury is great, also wear a face shield. Ensure that any safety goggles or face shield you use is approved by the American National Standards Institute (ANSI) or Canadian Standards Association (CSA) and is recommended for the particular hazard. In general, use safety goggles with perforated vent holes for protection from impact injury; with baffled vents for protection from chemical injury; with no vents for extremely dusty work or work using a chemical that emits irritating fumes. Before starting to work, put on the safety goggles to test their fit (above); adjust the head-strap, if necessary. If the safety goggles are scratched, cracked, pitted or clouded, replace them. Check a face shield the same way, putting it on to test its fit (inset).

Using hearing protection. To prevent hearing damage from the high-intensity noise of a router, a circular or saber saw, or a belt sander, wear ear muffs or ear plugs—whichever device is most comfortable and convenient. Use only a device with a noise reduction rating (NRR) listed on its package; recommended is a NRR of at least 25, reducing noise entering the ears by at least 25 decibels. Before starting to work, put on the ear muffs to test their fit (above); adjust the head- strap, if necessary. If ear muffs interfere with your movement or with any eye or head protection, use foam ear plugs—unless you have chronic ear problems. Ensuring your hands and the ear plugs are clean, roll each ear plug in turn between your fingers to compress it, then gently insert it into the ear canal (inset); hold it in place until it expands to fit the shape of the ear canal.

26a Using head protection. To prevent impact injury to your head when working above your head or in a tight space with little headroom, wear a safety helmet. Choose a safety helmet with the correct American National Standards Institute (ANSI) or Canadian Standards Association (CSA) rating for the job: a type rated A or B if there is any electrical hazard. Before starting to work, put on the safety helmet to test its fit (above); adjust the suspension harness to ensure it fits snugly, if necessary.

Using respiratory protection. For dusty work or work using chemicals that emit hazardous vapors, work outdoors, if possible. If you must work indoors, ensure the work area is provided with a constant supply of fresh air and plan to clean up periodically during the job. For the job, choose the best respiratory-protection device (above); ensure it's approved by the National Institute of Occupational Safety and Health (NIOSH) or the Mine Safety and Health Administration (MSHA). For protection against the hazardous dust and mist of materials such as asbestos, fiber glass or pressure-treated wood or the hazardous vapors of chemicals marked with POISON vapor and ventilation warnings, wear a dual-cartridge respirator fitted with the appropriate filters or cartridges (step below). For protection against the nuisance dust and mist of wood, metal, plastic, drywall or masonry, wear the appropriate type of dust mask. For single-use protection, choose a disposable dust mask and throw it away. For repeated-use protection, choose a reusable dust mask with replaceable filters; change the filter after each use of the dust mask.

Reusable dust mask: Replaceable cotton fiber or gauze filters permit repeated-use protection against nuisance dust and mist. Choose a model of neoprene rubber or soft plastic with an adjustable headstrap.

Disposable dust mask: For single-use protection against nuisance dust and mist. Choose a model with sturdy headstraps, a foam seal inside the top and a metal nose clip on the out side that conforms to the shape of your nose.

Dual-cartridge respirator: For protection against toxic dust, mist and vapor. Fitted with interchangeable filters or cartridges for protection against specific hazards. Contaminated air purified as inhaled through filters or cartridges, then expelled through exhalation valve.

USING A RESPIRATOR

26b 1. Installing respirator filters or cartridges. Before puffing on a respirator, fit it with filters or cartridges of the type designed for protection against the particular dust, mist or vapor hazard: filters for dust or mist; cartridges for vapor; or, filters and cartridges for dust or mist and vapor. Consult the owner’s manual for the respirator or a safety-equipment supply company that sells respirator accessories for recommendations on specific filters and cartridges; use only types designed for your model of respirator. Remember to buy pairs of filters or cartridges at a time, one for each inlet valve on the respirator; check the date on each filter or cartridge to ensure it has not expired. To install filters or cartridges in a respirator, follow the owner’s manual instructions. On the model shown, unscrew each filter retainer and take it off the cartridge holder. To install filters, fit each one in turn flat into the inside of the filter retainer (above, left), then screw the filter retainer back onto the cartridge holder. To install cartridges, screw each one into the cartridge holder (above, right), then, screw the filter retainers back onto the cartridge holders. To install filters and cartridges, use the same procedure to install first each cartridge and then each filter.

27a 2. Testing the respirator. To put on the respirator, hold it cupped under your chin with the face-piece low on your nose, then pull the headstrap back over your head; adjust the headstrap to ensure the respirator fits snugly, if necessary. Then, perform a positive pressure-fit test. Pressing the palm of your hand over the outlet valve cover to block it (above), exhale gently; there should be no air leakage mound the edges. If there is air leakage around the edges, adjust the respirator and repeat the test. If you can't get the respirator to fit snug replace it. When you are using the respirator, pay attention to air contaminants. If you smell or taste a contaminant, any irritation occurs or breathing is difficult, replace the filters or cartridges (step 1).

3. Cleaning and storing the respirator. After using the respirator, remove the filters or cartridges, reversing the procedure used to install them (step 1). If the filters or cartridges can still be used, store them in sealed plastic bags; otherwise, discard them. To clean the respirator, follow the owner’s manual instructions; for many models, special cleaning solutions are available. With the model shown, use a soft cloth to wipe the inside and outside surfaces of the respirator. Remove the outlet valve cover and use a foam swab to clean the outlet valve (above); then, clean the inlet valve the same way. If the outlet or inlet valve is damaged, replace it with an exact duplicate. Store the respirator in a sealed plastic bag.

STORING TOOLS and CLEANING UP

Putting away tools and supplies. After completing a workshop project, take time to carefully put away all tools and supplies used. Proper storage and cleanup keeps a workshop with limited space well-organized for the next project—ensuring that tools remain in good working order and safety hazards to you and your family members are minimized. When you store your tools and supplies, keep in mind a few simple rules. Sort out and store the smallest items first (step right). If a tool or supply needs special protection from light, heat, moisture, dust or impact, store it in the way that best protects it. Store tools and sup plies so you can find them easily; keep like tools and supplies together in designated spots or in clearly-labeled containers or drawers close to where you use them. Store hazardous cutting and power tools as well as chemical products out of the reach of children, hanging them up or locking them away. After storing your tools and supplies, clean the workshop thoroughly. Always lock the workshop when it's not in use.

27b Sorting out small tools and supplies. To avoid loosing small tools and supplies, begin a cleanup by collecting them first. Gather up small tools and tool attachments such as router, drill and screwdriver bits, saber saw and reciprocating saw blades, nail sets and punches; many have their own storage cases. Sort out sandpaper and steel wool, as well as fasteners and hardware. Pick up scissors and work knives, pencils, tape, swabs and toothpicks. To store small items so you can find them easily, use drawer organizers (above, left) and bin organizers (above, right); glass jars with tight-fitting lids also make good storage containers. Use masking tape to clearly label the contents of each drawer, bin or jar. Keep organizer units and containers together, handy and neat: on the worktable; on shelves or in cupboards above or below the worktable; or mounted and hung from shelf bottoms or perforated hardboard wall panels.

28a Safeguarding precision tools. To avoid damaging delicate hand tools such as screwdriver or wrench sets, files, chisels or planes, store them in a safe place, shielded from dust and humidity, and protected from impact damage. Hang hand tools you use frequently (step below) or keep them in their original boxes or in special storage cases. For example, use a canvas tool roll (above) to keep sets of precision tools together in one place and ensure they remain clean, dry and protected. Store tools placed in boxes, cases or tool rolls in drawers, then label the drawers so the tools can be easily found.

Shelving bulky supplies. To maximize order and minimize clutter in the workshop, batch and store together tools and supplies used for cleaning or finishing jobs. Also collect up similar types of fasteners, hardware and construction materials, setting them aside together where they will not get in the way. For example, use plastic bins (above) to keep together finishing supplies such as paintbrushes and rollers, along with cloths, sponges and drop cloths. Store the bins on shelves; or, use stackable bins, which can be assembled and set neatly on the floor against a wall, stacked as high as necessary.

28b Hanging up hand tools and safety gear. Hang up heavy or bulky hand tools and safety gear used frequently in the workshop, providing a safe, accessible storage site for them and minimizing clutter. Clamps, handsaws and other cutting tools, hammers, measuring tools, scrapers, putty knives, screwdrivers and wrenches can all be hung where they are visible and easy to find. Install perforated hardboard panels on the workshop walls and fit them with hooks for tools; U hooks, looped hooks, racks, clamps and other devices to hold individual or sets of tools are available at hardware stores and building supply centers.

Arrange hanging tools to maximize space, positioning similar tools and attachments near each other, far enough apart that they don't bang one another; hang heavy or sharp tools low down in case they fall. Label the position of each tool with masking tape so you can remember where it goes. If you hang up saw blades, label them by type; apply a thin coat of light machine oil to each blade to protect it from rust and hang it by itself to protect the teeth. With safety gear such as a respirator, ear muffs, ear plugs or safety goggles, place each item in a sealed plastic bag to protect it, then hang up the bag (above, right).

29a Closing away power tools. To prevent damage to power tools and keep them away from children, store them closed up in a cupboard (above) in their own special storage cases, if possible. After using any power tool, turn it off and unplug it, then remove any accessory such as a bit, a blade or a guide from it. Store the accessory in the case with the power tool; or, store a small accessory separately. Consult your owner’s manual for the power tool and follow any special pe-storage maintenance procedures and storage instructions. To store a power tool without a case, wind its power cord loosely around it, then stand or lie the tool in a secure spot, clear of other tools and supplies.

Locking away hazardous chemicals. Store hazardous finishing and cleaning products, lubricants, solvents, adhesives and paint strippers locked up in a metal safety cabinet (above), keeping them safely away from children and preventing spills or fires. Place the cabinet in a cool, dry spot away from heat or ignition sources and as far as possible from any exit. Post a NO SMOKING sign on the cabinet and install a smoke detector on the ceiling above it as well as a fire extinguisher rated ABC on a wall within 10 feet of it. Before storing a hazardous chemical, read the label for any special storage instructions and ensure the container is well-marked, undamaged and tightly closed.

29b Disposing of waste and debris. Clean the workshop thoroughly after a job to ready it for the next project. Assemble the necessary cleaning supplies; if necessary, wear work gloves or rubber gloves and respiratory protection. Clean up any chemical refuse first, throwing empty containers and applicators into a metal container double-lined with plastic garbage bags (inset); don't dispose of chemicals or containers marked FLAMMABLE or POISON with other household or workshop refuse. Seal the container and place it outdoors, away from heat and light; call your local department of environmental protection or public health for recommended disposal procedures in your community.

To clean up other debris and refuse, work methodically from the highest to the lowest surfaces and finish by cleaning the floor. Collect by hand and store any reusable pieces of scrap material. Using a whisk broom and dust pan for any small surface or a push broom for the floor, sweep up large disposable pieces of scrap material and throw them into a trash can lined with a plastic garbage bag. Seal the bag and dispose of it with your other household refuse. Then, use a shop vacuum to remove remaining debris, particles and dust . Store your cleaning tools and supplies, then lock the workshop when you leave it.

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